Car Starting Problems

Quite possably, your alternator is dead, or almost dead. Dead batteries tend to recharge slightly after not being used for a day or so or overnight, so that's why you can start it in the morning. But go to the mall, turn it off for ten minutes, come back, and it won't start. That's because a running vehicle can use alot of power, especally at night. Go to an alternator repair shop and get them to test it. You can also do it yourself if you have a multimeter. Most shops will test for free, because if something is wrong there is a very good chance you will get it fixed there. So go to a couple if you can and compare, or possibly get screwed. An alternator is often very easy to replace. (2 bolts and one or two connectors) So try yourself and save a bundle! . Good luck.

IT SOUNDS TO ME LIKE A BAD COIL.

check and go through the fuses for the electrical box in the car. When this happened to me, the car required a new alternator. Actually it is a pretty inexpensive repair to do yourself (I did it with my Dad instructing me - a 30-something year-old female who hates to be at the mercy of thiefy mechanics). Make sure you unhook the battery first so you don't get a few jolts of juice. Depending on the make and year of your car the problem could be in your turn signal switch / steering wheel assembly if you have electronic controls in your car

Dead battery and no gas are near the top of the list. There is also the possiblilty that you are in the wrong car so the key wont work. And since many cars have computers now there are many things related to that too.

2000 Dodge Stratus V-6 2.5 Liter Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set. Hope this helps! 2000 Dodge Stratus V-6 2.5 Liter Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set. Hope this helps!

you need three things spark fuel and compression if one goes out or away it will never run you need to find out witch one is gone if spark is gone you need to look at electrical if fuel you need to look at fuel system be it pump or filter or electrical if it is compression it could be timing belt or chain depending on the motor i know kind or vived but its a good start for you

2002windstar wont start with remote with out key in ignition

Pinto's fitted to UK motors

the firing order is 1 3 4 2.

your igniter is the least common thing to check if your car wont start. check your fuel pump first. their are three things that can cause it to do that. your fuel, ignition, or your compression. an igniter with run you over 150 dollars. start with the small inexpensive stuff first. buy or rent a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure. if that's ok then check to see if you have spark from your spark plug wires. if you have spark and fuel then the only thing left is compression. rent a compression kit and check that.

There are 2 problems listed but only one most important so far. The engine can't start until it gets turned over by the starter. You have to have a hot battery, good battery cable connections, a good starter relay and a electrical circuit from the inginion switch and other circuits to the relay.

check the timing belt if it has broken or stripped its teeth this would cause a complete breakdown u can check this by removing the cover on the end of the engine.there are electrical issues therse would need checking 2 generally its to do with the earths the earth wires in and around the engine bay if and when they give trouble they can cause a non start.if not you will need to get your car to a garge so they can put it on a diagnostic machine .

most definitely. they can be sonically cleaned, though, for about each, by your local carburetor service shop.

The cable or wire(s) is loose and need to be tightened.

From most to least likely:

1. Starter solenoid is not getting power

2. Starter solenoid is bad

3. Starter gear is stripped

4. Flywheel ring gear is stripped

Age of starter is not really relevant. It is possible to get a defective one.

Check electrical connections. Some cars have a separate wire to the solenoid.

Remove starter, look for obvious damage to gears.

If you don't see anything really glaring, like a chunk of flywheel missing, take the starter to any auto parts chain store. Most of them have a testing setup and do the testing for free.

disconnect neg batt cable, remove wires from starter, remove 2 mounting bolts top and bottom located where engine meets transmission on passenger side of motor. lift out starter... install in reverse order

the fuel reset switch is directly behind the glove box, to reset it you just push the button on the top of the switch.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info Could be moisture in the lines from old gas or the gas began to break down, depends on how old gas is if thiers moisture in there now try product called dry gas it bonds to water and carries it through engine with fuel to be burn or expelled

the igniter in the distributor, they are aften going bad in hondas, and causes a huge head ache. This is what I've done so far., This happens intermittently. It used to happen during the summer months but now even during the winter months it's been happening more frequently. Here's what i replaced so far. First : Main relay, Ign Coil, Dist Cap, Rotor, Plug wires, Spark Plugs. It happened 2 more times after the items above were replaced. Next items I replaced is below. Fuel Pump Fuel strainer Fuel filter Note each time this happens the car starts the next day or two and happens again weeks or a month later . I don't know what else to check. If anyone have any ideas please let me know. Thanks

Could be heater plugs if its a diesel or maybe the battery.

Check the earth (ground) cables between the engine and body for cleanliness and security of connection. Turn the ignition key, you should hear the starter solenoid 'click'. If it does, the cable from the battery to the starter is a fused link, connect a starter cable between the battery and starter motor solenoid and try to start. If there is no 'click' the fault is either the ignition switch or the wiring from the solenoid to it. If the car is automatic it should only start in Park (P) and Neutral (N). check the operation of the gearbox start inhibit switch. If an aftermarket alarm is fitted check the security and cleanliness of the wiring connections, especially the immobilizer circuit.

-- battery

-- battery cable

-- connection between battery cable and battery

A fault in any of these would still supply the small current used by the

lights and radio, but not the huge battery current required for starting.

Yes. The 12 volts of a vehicle battery is not sufficient to shock you nor is there enough potential to be significantly affected by the electrical resistance caused by the water. The low voltage of the battery and the jumper cables will not harm you.

Just don't touch the spark plug wires or the distributor while the engine is running or you're trying to start it; THAT voltage is high enough to give a thrill you won't soon forget.

Depends what your problem is. One common problem is that the copper contacts inside the solenoid burn and pit and the starter will not kick in (or maybe just click and not do anything). There's absolutely nothing wrong with the starter motor, nor the solenoid, only the contacts inside the solenoid housing, that pass juice on to the starter motor are bad. I have sat there, miles from home, clicked the starter over and over again and prayed that on the 173rd click it will engage (which it actually does, only at its own evil pleasure). I have repaired twice in 90K miles. If above is your problem, know that you can buy a starter solenoid repair kit (with new copper contacts) from Toyota, for less $, by a country mile, than the price of a new starter. (I actually filed and polished the old contacts once before I got wise to the repair kit.) Then, it is a matter of disassembling stuff around the starter, enough to remove the starter, put it on a bench, disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts. No rocket science, just careful, tedious work, to not break anything and get everything back together as it was. If you are not willing to let the job teach you, ask somebody else to describe the details.

If it is a manual then maybe the synchro gears in the gearbox are buggered or possibly the gearbox oil is too low, if it is an auto, maybe the torque converter is stuffed, really need to know wether it is manual or auto (or some fancy kinda new gearbox)

My 94 Lumina APV (3.8L) would not start (when warm) - cranked but acted as if no spark or fuel. Mechanic replaced computer @ $350 (said too many error codes to diagnose problem) - did not resolve problem. Then he replaced the camshaft position sensor (CMP) @ $125 - that solved the problem. PB

Fuel pump gone bad? Relay stuck? Ignition module fried? Only two things will keep an engine from starting. Lack of fuel or lack of spark. The first step is to determine if spark is present by detaching a plug wire and carefully inserting a screwdriver or the like into the end and placing close enough to the engine block (metal) without touching it (1 inch or less) for a spark to jump. Have someone crank the vehicle and look for spark. If no spark then you have found the culprit. Bad coil or ignition module. CAUTION! You can get quite a jolt if you handle the wire while the car is being cranked. If you have spark then you need to determine if you have a working fuel pump. One method is to have someone turn the key from the off position to the run position (the position where the engine runs {just before the crank position}) a few times while you listen as closely to the fuel tank as you can get. You will hear the buzzing of the fuel pump if it is functioning. The other method is to locate the fuel line pressure hookup (it will be on the fuel rail. a valve not unlike a tire valve only larger) and depress the valve stem. It WILL SHOOT FUEL AT YOU. SO BE CAREFUL. Once you have done this cycle the key a few times and then depress the valve again. If it spits at you again the pump is circulating fuel, if not then the pump is not functioning. Y-THINK-Y Well i would check the spark at the plug first. You have to eliminate spark and fuel problems. If you turn the key you should hear you fuel pump engage. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's working. Once you know that the fuel is getting to the motor there are 3 things that I would check. 1. Crankshaft sensor (located on the transmission housing) 2. Camshaft indicator (located on the side of the block) 3. Ignition coil. (where all the plugs come from) The first two provide information to the PCM and if it doesn't get it the van will not start. It would help if I knew what year and model'engine size ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I certainly agree that these other sensors can be the cause but unfortunately to determine the source of problem beyond the simple spark or fuel tests it is best to have a diagnostic computer because there is so many little telemetric devices that will effect the computer that one could spend many, many hours and dollars replacing them one-by-one. This is when a pro should come into the picture. POST: It is my experience that an engine will not 'crank' at all if the crank sensor is bad. Y-THINK-Y