Car Starting Problems

the igniter in the distributor, they are aften going bad in hondas, and causes a huge head ache. This is what I've done so far., This happens intermittently. It used to happen during the summer months but now even during the winter months it's been happening more frequently. Here's what i replaced so far. First : Main relay, Ign Coil, Dist Cap, Rotor, Plug wires, Spark Plugs. It happened 2 more times after the items above were replaced. Next items I replaced is below. Fuel Pump Fuel strainer Fuel filter Note each time this happens the car starts the next day or two and happens again weeks or a month later . I don't know what else to check. If anyone have any ideas please let me know. Thanks

Could be heater plugs if its a diesel or maybe the battery.

Check the earth (ground) cables between the engine and body for cleanliness and security of connection. Turn the ignition key, you should hear the starter solenoid 'click'. If it does, the cable from the battery to the starter is a fused link, connect a starter cable between the battery and starter motor solenoid and try to start. If there is no 'click' the fault is either the ignition switch or the wiring from the solenoid to it. If the car is automatic it should only start in Park (P) and Neutral (N). check the operation of the gearbox start inhibit switch. If an aftermarket alarm is fitted check the security and cleanliness of the wiring connections, especially the immobilizer circuit.

-- battery

-- battery cable

-- connection between battery cable and battery

A fault in any of these would still supply the small current used by the

lights and radio, but not the huge battery current required for starting.

Yes. The 12 volts of a vehicle battery is not sufficient to shock you nor is there enough potential to be significantly affected by the electrical resistance caused by the water. The low voltage of the battery and the jumper cables will not harm you.

Just don't touch the spark plug wires or the distributor while the engine is running or you're trying to start it; THAT voltage is high enough to give a thrill you won't soon forget.

Depends what your problem is. One common problem is that the copper contacts inside the solenoid burn and pit and the starter will not kick in (or maybe just click and not do anything). There's absolutely nothing wrong with the starter motor, nor the solenoid, only the contacts inside the solenoid housing, that pass juice on to the starter motor are bad. I have sat there, miles from home, clicked the starter over and over again and prayed that on the 173rd click it will engage (which it actually does, only at its own evil pleasure). I have repaired twice in 90K miles. If above is your problem, know that you can buy a starter solenoid repair kit (with new copper contacts) from Toyota, for less $, by a country mile, than the price of a new starter. (I actually filed and polished the old contacts once before I got wise to the repair kit.) Then, it is a matter of disassembling stuff around the starter, enough to remove the starter, put it on a bench, disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts. No rocket science, just careful, tedious work, to not break anything and get everything back together as it was. If you are not willing to let the job teach you, ask somebody else to describe the details.

If it is a manual then maybe the synchro gears in the gearbox are buggered or possibly the gearbox oil is too low, if it is an auto, maybe the torque converter is stuffed, really need to know wether it is manual or auto (or some fancy kinda new gearbox)

My 94 Lumina APV (3.8L) would not start (when warm) - cranked but acted as if no spark or fuel. Mechanic replaced computer @ $350 (said too many error codes to diagnose problem) - did not resolve problem. Then he replaced the camshaft position sensor (CMP) @ $125 - that solved the problem. PB

Fuel pump gone bad? Relay stuck? Ignition module fried? Only two things will keep an engine from starting. Lack of fuel or lack of spark. The first step is to determine if spark is present by detaching a plug wire and carefully inserting a screwdriver or the like into the end and placing close enough to the engine block (metal) without touching it (1 inch or less) for a spark to jump. Have someone crank the vehicle and look for spark. If no spark then you have found the culprit. Bad coil or ignition module. CAUTION! You can get quite a jolt if you handle the wire while the car is being cranked. If you have spark then you need to determine if you have a working fuel pump. One method is to have someone turn the key from the off position to the run position (the position where the engine runs {just before the crank position}) a few times while you listen as closely to the fuel tank as you can get. You will hear the buzzing of the fuel pump if it is functioning. The other method is to locate the fuel line pressure hookup (it will be on the fuel rail. a valve not unlike a tire valve only larger) and depress the valve stem. It WILL SHOOT FUEL AT YOU. SO BE CAREFUL. Once you have done this cycle the key a few times and then depress the valve again. If it spits at you again the pump is circulating fuel, if not then the pump is not functioning. Y-THINK-Y Well i would check the spark at the plug first. You have to eliminate spark and fuel problems. If you turn the key you should hear you fuel pump engage. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's working. Once you know that the fuel is getting to the motor there are 3 things that I would check. 1. Crankshaft sensor (located on the transmission housing) 2. Camshaft indicator (located on the side of the block) 3. Ignition coil. (where all the plugs come from) The first two provide information to the PCM and if it doesn't get it the van will not start. It would help if I knew what year and model'engine size ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I certainly agree that these other sensors can be the cause but unfortunately to determine the source of problem beyond the simple spark or fuel tests it is best to have a diagnostic computer because there is so many little telemetric devices that will effect the computer that one could spend many, many hours and dollars replacing them one-by-one. This is when a pro should come into the picture. POST: It is my experience that an engine will not 'crank' at all if the crank sensor is bad. Y-THINK-Y

Crawl under the passenger side and you will be able to find it, looks like a coke can with three wires going to it, a easy change out just make sure to remove the battery first, and have a good socket set with some extender's to get to the back uper bolt depending on the year, get a Haynes Manuel it will save you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AFTER I RAN OUT OF FUEL AND I WAS INSTRUCTED TO LEAVE MY IGNITION ON FOR AROUND FIVE MINUTES TO PRIME THE FUEL AND TO MY GREAT PLEASURE IT DID THE TRICK, I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE BUT GIVE IT A SHOT ,HOPE THIS HAS BEEN HELPFUL FOR YOU.GOOD LUCK.

My XJ8 refused to start after switching it off after only running it for a few seconds; I was told the cylinders were flooded with fuel (when the engine is cold more fuel is pumped into the cylinders).

The remedy was to start the engine with the gas pedal flat on the floor (don't 'pump' it); this will stop any further fuel being sent to the cylinders and will also clear them of any excess fuel. When the engine starts just take your foot off the pedal and let it warm up. Hope this helps.

Haynes repair manual, Dodge Neon 2000 thru 2003. Book #30036 This book can answer almost any question and is a must if you work on your own car. Plus it's only $20 alldatadiy.com.....but its $25 imo it's worth it if you plan to keep that car. you get everything a dealer gets, Autozone.com Free

if the car has a new battery and solenoid then I would remove the starter and bench test it. if it bench tests ok then make sure it is not jammed. does the starter click? if not then it may be wires. check and make sure the little solenoid wire is connected as well.

It is relay 18 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Block. Page 6-59 in the owners manual.

Fuse Link @ starter--- Ignition Switch------- Netural Saftey Switch- Bad ignition switch, or bad neutral safety switch.

In my experience if the car will not start and it is a rapid clicking sound when turning the ignition it indicates a dead battery. You'll need to get a jump and wait a few minutes before trying to turn the car on again. If the battery is really dead it will take up to 10 minutes to recharge. Each time you try to turn the car on while it is being recharged it will lose the charge it has obtained and you will have to start over in time for recharging it. If you think your battery should not be dead when it is, you may want to get your alternator checked by taking it into any auto parts store as this will drain your battery prematurely.

If you know for sure that it is not getting fuel or fire, you need to check the ECM fuse. If it is good then check the relay. If you have a professional hook up a scanner then it will tell what is wrong with it. That would be cheaoer than guessing unless you have plenty of money to waste on replacing good parts.

Hi, I had the same problem with my car just after I bought it. It's an older model with a carby. I was told because of the heat of the engine it makes it harder to start the car after it has been driven at normal operating temperature. You shouldn't have trouble jump starting it, or just give it a lot of gas when you are starting it after driving. If you have a carburettor, you have to be one with it. Hope this helps

This requires a set of special cam hold-down tools for holding the cams in place and the cam sprockets while removing the sprocket bolts. The procedure is quite extensive. Take a look here for a detailed walkthrough with pictures. http://www.60degreev6.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=DOHC&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=12&page=1 For stock timing you must use the cam hold-down tools to keep the flats on top of each pair of cams parallel to each other. Done one side, turn the engine 360 degrees, then do the other side, so that the left side cams will have the flats facing up while the right side cams have the flats facing down. Good luck!

A clicking sound when trying to start a car is almost always a low battery. The solinoid which engages with the ring gear isn't getting enough voltage to move it's gear. This causes a fairly rapid and regular clicking sound something like 6 or so per second. Attach a battery charger for 15 minutes or so or get someone to give you a jump. Then consider what the problem with the battery may be before you get stranded.

while i was driving my car shuts off at nite while the lights are on, and i got it started back up and shuts off and comes back on

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If you have a bad alternator it can cause starting problems. More likely because you were driving and not charging the battery, while draining it. The alternator re-charges while you drive. When you turned it off & came back the next day there was not enough juice.

My son's 91 sedan would crank over nicely, but never try to start. We sprayed a short shot of ether into the air intake and it started instantly. This proved that we had ignition, but not getting fuel to any cylinders. A shop tested for the electric pulses to the injectors and saw none. He then disconnected the wireing plug to the one injector that is accessable, and the engine started and ran on 5 cylinders. That one injector was shorted and was killing the pulses to all the rest of the injectors. If the bad one was one of the ones that are buried under the cover, we may never have figured this one out! Jim Harlan, Albuquerque If the above-answer didn't help, check your fuel pressure. You might have a bad fuel pump or pump relay

The starter motor is located between the transmission and the engine which engages the starter clutch with the flywheel, which rotates and starts the engine.

it could be anything from a clogged fuel filter to a blocked fuel pump, or losing spark in the distributor cap. if your PONTIAC has the PASSLOCK security system in it. turn ignition to on position... but do not start... for (10) ten full min. then turn key OFF for (10) ten more FULL mins. then try to start your car. if this works... REPLACE BATTERY IN KEYFOB (keyless entry keychain device) It may sound crazy but it will work.

Without knowing the make and year it's impossible to speculate. Could be a low battery not spinning it over fast enough, a bad ECM, a broken distributor, a failed ignition coil or any number of other things -.