Car Starting Problems

Sounds like the battery needs to be replaced if it is old or the connection to the battery is lose and needs tightening. Is there corrosion around the circular connectors on top of the battery? If so, clean it off and consider replacing them if needed. That's my best guess.

try a new coilpack assembly ,,it worked for me I had a similar problem on my 87 Century 3.8l. My Cam Position Sensor was overheating which changed the voltage and kept the car from running. I diagnosed it by pouring some cold water on the sensor when the vehicle wouldn't start and when it did I knew it was that sensor. It could also have been the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I would have chilled it next to determine this. I would also test that the the Fuel Pressure is accurate. My fuel pump worked intermittently causing the car to be hard starting when hot. ( I replaced the fuel pump and then found out about the sensors.) Good Luck!

solenoids are what clicks, yes it will click if the battery is low.

The distributor handles several jobs. Its first job is to distribute the high voltage from the coil to the correct cylinder. This is done by the cap and rotor. The coil is connected to the rotor, which spins inside the cap. The rotor spins past a series of contacts, one contact per cylinder. As the tip of the rotor passes each contact, a high-voltage pulse comes from the coil. The pulse arcs across the small gap between the rotor and the contact (they don't actually touch) and then continues down the spark-plug wire to the spark plug on the appropriate cylinder. When you do a tune-up, one of the things you replace on your engine is the cap and rotor -- these eventually wear out because of the arcing. Also, the spark-plug wires eventually wear out and lose some of their electrical insulation. This can be the cause of some very mysterious engine problems.

This is easy - you can determine the functionality of the alternator in less than 5-minutes. With the engine off, using a volt meter switched to measure DC current, place the red lead against the positive battery terminal/post and the black lead against the negative battery terminal/post and test the voltage. A good battery should measure around 12-volts (a good battery has a range of slightly lower to slightly higher than 12-volts). If you get within this range you have a properly charged battery and can then move to the next step and test the alternator.

Turn the engine on and again place the red lead against the positive battery terminal/post and the black lead against the negative battery terminal/post and test the voltage. The alternator is designed to generate enough voltage to replace the 12-volts of power being used by the vehicle's electrical system and charge the battery at the same time. Therefore, a properly working alternator will push about 14-volts of electricity into the system (a properly functioning alternator will generate a range of slightly lower to slightly higher than 14-volts).

If the system is generating around 14-volts with the engine running, then you can reasonably conclude that the alternator is working properly.

If you you are having battery charging problems (will not hold a charge) and the system is pushing around 14-volts with the engine running, you can then reasonably conclude that the battery needs replacing. If the system is producing less than the normal range of about 14-volts, you may need to replace the alternator. Keep in mind that a good battery may go bad if it is repeatedly used in a system in which the alternator is not working properly. If the systems tests within the normal range of 14-volts while the engine is running, replace only the alternator first and see if the battery then holds a charge. If it doesn't, then you will need to replace the battery also.

Automatic transmissions have separate forward & reverse clutches. Your forward clutch is likely failed - burned out, etc. I had a similar failure on an Olds Cutlass many years ago. Got the car home by driving backwards for about four blocks (not recommended!).

Smoking all the time is probably the piston rings. Smoking when you first start it is probably the valve seals. Smoke may be coolant and not oil which would mean a head gasket, cracked head or block.

What color smoke makes a difference. Black smoke, to much fuel (flooding). Blue smoke, engine oil. White smoke, engine coolant.

its VERY simple. all you need to have is a ratchet and a 10mm, 13mm, and 14mm socket. disconnect the negative battery terminal with the 10mm. then with your hand, remove the small wire on the back of the starter by pulling firmly on the plastic piece. then take the 13mm nut off the back of the starter under the rubber boot for the battery lead--the big wire. then use the 14mm to remove the two bolts going through the bellhousing that attach the starter. reverse to install.

its really simple. first one i did took 25 minutes from start to finish.

go to autozone............

Absoutely, tho it's probably built into the alternator. Ask your local auto parts supplier if a replacement regulator is available. Of course you have to disassemble the alternator and install the regulator if it in inside your alternator. lol It's inside the alternator. Either replace the alternator or get a diagram of the alternator and rebuild it.

Pulse-code modulation (PCM) is a method used to digitally represent analog signals.

Usually vehicle just stops running with no warning

Yes, summer weight oil can get too thick in the cold and prevent the engine from turning over fast enough to start. This is a big problem in many diesel cars and trucks.

The question simply doesn't have enough information; but after all it is being asked in AUGUST so I seriously doubt thick oil is your actual problem. If the engine turns over too slowly to start, check out the starting circuit - battery, cables, starter solenoid, starter - and you'll probably find the problem (if slow cranking is the issue). Alternately, it depends on how the problem began (slow cranking). Could be a bearing almost seized up or some component in the serpentine belt drive that is already seized up (release tension on the belt to determine if that is the problem by releasing the idler (tensioner) pulley and dropping the belt loose before cranking. GOOD LUCK.

I JUST wrote in here 15 minutes ago pleading for someone to answer this because I had the EXACT same problem-just replaced the cluster, tried ressetting the codes by pulling off the positive cable, and my car would not run...After reading and searching for clues and answers on this website, I found that someones answer-try to lock the car and unlock the drivers side door WITH the key- the anti theft ligh stopped flashing and the car started right up and ran fine! I hope ur as fortuante as I was cuz, man that was frustrating... Thanks a million WikiAnswers (and those who helped answer)!

Yes specifically if there is a crack in it. I would go with the ignition module or coil.

Yes, because the electricity it distributes to the spark-plugs to start the combustion inside the engine which makes it run, so it wont run if there is no sparking spark plug because of the absence of the electricity that the distributor distributes

It's an automatic idle, the motor needs to run at a higher RPM for a few moments to lubricate the valves and pistons, perfectly normal operation.

Check the neutral safety switch,it is located on the transmission or on the steering column ,under the dash.

The crankshaft position sensor is behind the catalytic converter, in the area where the engine mates to the transaxle. Access is from below, and you should wait for it to cool down. This answer is specific to the DOHC 2.0L Zetec engine.

Do you have a remote start on it? If so, is it being activated while in your pocket? Perhaps the battery is getting weak. With temperature change the charge in the battery can get weak and then stronger. Perhaps when it gets stronger, it is causing the car to start.

Usually that just means the battery is dead. It's trying to crank the starter but doesn't have enough power. Try jumping it from another car and see if that starts it.

When a grinding noise is detected first locate the area of the car it is being generated from. Most grinding noises will be being generated while driving, if you are having a hard time detecting the location of the grinding sound, have a helper ride along in the rear seat to give a new perspective on the origin of the grinding noise. A grinding noise can be generated by many things from worn out brake pads to axle bearing failure. Once a grinding sound has been detected action must

Bad ground, bad battery, harness or bad connection. Not enough info here, need to know if headlights come on and if you even get a click. Does it start with a jump?? In this order check bat( should be 12.3 V or above check and clean terminals check connection to ground check connection to starter(unlikely since you replaced it.) email me @malq@comcast.net after you try these Doug

first up there will be lots of sparks trying to connect cables.then you can damage all sorts of components in your electrical system,from the battery all the way to the computer, including burning out wireing harness, fuses, computer, starter, etc.you could also cause a fire in the car,

Here are possible solutions: * If the battery is good, it's most likely the starter. Bench test the starter, but keep in mind that it might work fine out of the car and still be worn out. * Fuel problem. * The coil electricity is blocking electric to relay.

Take it to a mechanic to test the battery, charging system, and starting system (both the solenoid and starter if they are separate pieces). Or remove the starter and take it to a parts store to have it tested. If the battery is ok, the alternator/charger system is putting out power, and you think the starter or solenoid is still the cause, unhook the ground from the battery post after the car has been running but is turned off and leave it like that till the next time you turn on the car when you'll screw it back on. If it starts no problem then it's probable it's the starter or solenoid that was sucking the battery dry.

Buy a tool especially designed for this, at most parts stores. Before you start to clean your battery get some Arm and Hammer or equivalent baking soda, put a small amount into a cup, fill the cup with water mix well and pour over the top and sides of the battery. This neutralizes the acid. Then use a garden hose to rinse off the baking soda. Let your battery dry then clean the terminals with the brush you purchased at the parts store.

If it's louder when the vehicle goes around a sharp corner, I'd be suspicious of CV joints. If the clicking gets faster as you speed up you might also check your tires. I could not figured out why my vehicle was making that noise til i realized it was a nail in my tire clicking on the street every time it went around.