Car Starting Problems

well....chanes are high that it's the alternator. take it to autozone, and they will test the alternator for free, and since obviously you cant drive it there, you can still take the alternator out and take it into autozone. you might take your battery too, just incase. it could also be a ground from the alternator

I just had this problem with my son's 1996 Miata this past weekend. After checking the battery to make sure it had a full charge I tried to start it again. Finally, in frustration, I jammed the clutch pedal nearly to the floor, and the engine turned over. All this time I hadn't pushed to clutch pedal in enough to let the car start. This could be your problem too. It's a start, anyway.

Check for sufficient voltage to your starter. If your battery is showing 12 volts or better, ( around 10 volts under a load ), check your cables. Make certain that they are clean and tight at the battery terminals. If you are getting good voltageto the starter,( don't neglect to checkfor ground also ), the starter is suspect. Usually this problem can be attributed toa weak battery or corroded terminals.

check the fuel pressure at the rail, if over spec look for fuel while cranking from injectors in throttle body

if still low pressure change the fuel filter and check the regulator by disconnecting the vaccum line and cranking

then check ignition system for proper spark

Hi, do you have a laser-line immobiliser? (Where you put the stick into the switch on the dash) or is it an immobilier on the key?

if it cranks but wont start it may be the coil if it doesnt crank check the battery , cables and wires then if no check the starter try squeezing some gas through were the injectors /carb shoot the gas if it starts its your fuel pump well what happend till it didnt start?

The recommended gap is .028.

It depends on the car and you will still have the steering wheel lock to deal with. Newer cars do not like being hot wired. You can break the steering column but that seems excesive. Wiggle the steering wheel as you try and turn the key.

The starter solenoid or relay switch needs to be replaced. Definitely not true, start out with something a little more simple, clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight, that is usually when you will hear clicking.

Could be an electronic fuel pump failure. It is mounted inside the fuel tank. You have to drop the fuel tank to get to it. A: before you drop the tank check to see if the inertia relay was tripped , in my 88 crown it was located on trunk lid support on drivers side . looked like a little box with a metal slider sticking out one side (yours might vary) if you find this and still no help then see above

This site will show you the wiring diagram of a radio harness for just about any vehicle. Hope it helps

http://www.the12volt.com/

or do it the old fashion like i did if the radio diagram says the blue wires on the radio are for the left front grab the wires from the harness coming from the car and grab the two from the harness and connect them together and if the back right speaker comes on , disconnect them and grab the wires from the radio that says back right and connect those two. repeat this until the others three are sounding in the right order until done

That's because you need to disarm the car alarm if you dont have the remote. To do this on the driver side there should be a fuse box. Open it, look for a little black button. Press it 5 times not too fast or to slow. After you've done this, you should hear the alarm beep twice and the little red security light should be steady instead of blinking. This works believe me!

Make sure you have voltage at the pump. If you do then the new pump is defective. If not, the fuse is blown or the fuel pump relay is bad.

Where is relay?

i had the same problem with my car i had to change the fuel pump

have had to do this many times first i would check the fuel pressure regulator it is located in the fuel rail

remove the small hose, vacume line see if fuel comes out of it if so it needs to be replaced

on intrepid at the back of the motor hard to get that's where i would start if no fuel leaking out of the hose or the regulator then i would do a fuel pressure test cold and hot to see if there is a leak down problem for some reason the fuel is leaking into the intake making it hard to start hot good luck also could be fuel injectors fuel pressure should tell if you know how to do a leak down test

Look under the vehicle - follow the fuel line from tank - remove clamps and mounting to replace

This happened to mine, and it turns out that theres alot of debris on the bottom of the tank that got sucked up when you ran out, so you need to replace the fuel filter under the car, near the drivers rear wheel. if that doesnt work your lines are clogged up which is a big problem

What kind of car & year. Could be the idle air bypass valve. It is located on the throttle body. If you remove the hose and look in the throttle body, you can see a hole in there. Try to clean it with air intake cleaner first. Clean the throttle body with it about 25% of the can, then use the rest of the can into that hole! Do this with the vehicle is running. You may have to play with the throttle to do this. Try to keep the idle as low as possible. When done, stop the vehicle for 10 mins. then rev it up a lot and get all the black out.

No way we can tell from here. If the engine cranks, it is not the battery. The battery can be good and the engine not crank due to other problems. Sorry, but we really cannot diagnose by remote control.

Many cars have a fusible link inline with the main power cable from the battery that can blow and cause these symptoms. Some cars have a main relay that can blow instead or in conjunction with a fusible link. Many modern vehicles have a fuel safety shut off switch. The latter is a switch linked with a shock sensor that shuts off your fuel pump if you are involved in an accident ( or hit a curb ). This type of switch needs to be reset in order to allow your fuel pump to function again.

The Passlock security system is the problem. Should be recalled. The resistor workaround at the key isn't always the only problem. I tried it on my 99 Suburban and it didn't do any better with the resister bypass. You need to eliminate the entire security system. Go here http://newrockies.com/?ap_id=craigpeate for a module to bypass the system completely. Buy the pro module for $179 plus shipping and save yourself the hassle of dealing with it ever again. Or you could go to the dealer and have them replace the entire system for over $1000. They will have to replace the key/tumbler/hall effect switch/wiring and EVO-Passlock module to get it right. Check out my profile page for a list of vehicles affected.

previous answer:

http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm

Refer to method A..permanent bypass method. Works great...hope this helps.

that link no longer works. mine does the same once in a while, but my column has a wobble...

Not to seem smart at all but the first thing I would check would be the battery. If you figure out that it is charged well and it stilldoesn't start then you could try checking the connections on the battery posts or the connections on the starter. Unfortunately i am not much help beyond those steps but good luck.

The starter on a peugeot 106 is located at the back of the engine block on the right side. Very difficult to locate from above, since it is below the intake/airfilter equipment. From below it is easier. Take of the right front wheel and jack the car up or go underneath in a pit. There you will find the starter and one may see the electrcal connections to it. It is fastened with two bolts underneath (at the rear side of the starter and one on top going through the transmission block. On the diesel you need to remove the exhaust heat shield, and it will help to remove the exhaust front pipe - what a pain!

Looking into the bonnet it is inside the black plastic box on the right