Car Starting Problems

check to see if it's still in time and have the compression checked, if these four are correct it has to run. time, fuel compression and spark. hope it helps

Common problem on 700 and 900 series volvos. The fuel pump relay begins to occasionaly fail after 10 years or so. The relay is located behind the change tray/cig. lighter... near all of the fuses. It is the tall white one, kind of to the drivers (left) side. Volvo charges about $85 US dollars for the relay. I got the same relay through an independent repair shop for $55. Good for another 10 years or so.

There are a lot of variables that determine the amount of time you need to wait.

* Condition of fuel is one of the more serious potential problems, with older fuel taking much longer to clear out and presenting a greater potential for flooding. * Poor engine compression will also make flooding into a much worse problem. * As will a weak ignition system In general, most injected (EFI) engines do not "flood" unless something is wrong with one or more injectors.

Once you've discovered which has caused the problem, try a little starting fluid. The ether in the starting fluid is so much more volatile that it will often start the engine even if other problems exist, and of course, once the engine starts, even with the starting fluid, it will clear out the flooding problem.

If you have a resistor embedded in your ignition key, it means your vehicle is equipped with a theft deterrent system, and from experience, the most common problem is a severed wire at the ignition cylinder. This would normally require replacing the ignition cylinder, which could get quite expensive because not only does it require replacing the cylinder, but would also need to cut new keys with the same resistence as the old keys. Keys cost in the $20 to $30 range, each! This cost is in addition to the cost of labor and the ignition cylinder. The way to fix this problem without replacing anything is simple: 1st, measure the resistence of the pellet embedded in the ignition key, using a digital volt/ohm meter. Then go to your nearest Radio Shack and get a resistor/s to match what you measured on the key. Then, cut the two thin white wires at the base of the steering column, the wires lead up, into the column and to the ignition cylinder. Connect each end of the resistor you got from Radio Shack to the wires you cut at the base of the column, doesn't matter how you connect to the wires. What you are doing is bypassing the resistor embedded in the key. good luck.

Changing the ECU is not a dificult task however, you may need a tool in order to pull the ECU from its slot. It should be located in the passenger side foot-well. Simply pull back the carpet and remove the ECU.

Hi how I can bypass or cut of immobilizer for renalt clio 1998 1.2 8v 59hp imobilaizers is in main block ecu

it could be a fuel filter maybe the one in your car is old and you need a new one

A dirty or defective idle air control valve (IAC). When you initialize the a/c, it sends a signal over to the Power Control Module(PCM)(Computer) and it energizes both the a/c clutch, and the IAC to raise the idle. If not, then the compressor is bad. The IAC valve(MOTOR)just needs 2 b cleaned (after it's off) with a Good Carberator cleaner-clean it until the cleaner runs clear & the pintel valve -inside-moves freely.

While it may be any number of other things, having a mismatched or failed computer chip in the key will give you the symptoms you describe...and considering the fact that you just changed the ignition, that'd be a good place to start.

I had the same problem with my 95. Normally, If you turn the ignition on, (not where you turn the engine over) you should hear the fuel pump "humm" for a second or two. If you don't, then your fuel pump switch/relay may be bad. The switch/relay is located in the fuse box under the hood on the driver side. Just to get by I would give the fusebox a hard tap with my nuckles as if I was knocking on someones door. If the ignition is still turned on as I wrote above, you'll hear the fuel pump kick in. The truck can now be started. This is a quick fix however. Replace the switch/relay as soon as possible.

Just trace the positive (red) lead from the battery--it will lead you to the starter solenoid which is on top of and mounted to the starter motor. I own a 1993 Buick Century with a 3.3 litre engine and last summer my start died on me in the parking lot of subways luckily there was a NAPA store next door so I bought a starter... Come to find out the start is located under the front crossmember. In order to get to the starter you need to unbolt the engine and raise it about 6 inchs. I brought mine to the mechanic cost me $150. The starter cost 80 there was almost 2 hours in labor.

The red battery light indicates that the battery is not rceiving sufficient charge. Look for a loose belt or loose/dirty battery cable connection, or have the alternator and/or battery checked.

The system uses five wires and a receiver or antenna wire that accepts the signal from the remote. A blue wire, a purple wire, a pink wire, a red wire, and a black wire. The black wire of course is the ground. The pink and red wires are set up with a vampire bite to the constant power and the ignition power. Red to constant, and pink to ignition which gets power from the "run" position when the key is so turned to it. I can't remember right now which one of the blue or purple that is connected off the vehicle harness or which one gets connected to the "start" function of turning the key, but it honestly doesn't matter because these two are the ones that conduct the "magic." In my car, a yellow wire that connects the "start" function to the starter was cut and one of those wires is connected from the main harness and the other to the starter connector at the steering column. The idea is that electrical current will attempt to travel to the starter but is routed to the pass time unit to check if the code is current, if it is the connection is made and the car starts, if not, then the circuit is not able to close and you will get no power to the starter. To bypass this, simply cut the two wires that re route that current and splice them back together leaving the pass time unit out of the routing completely. If your pass time unit is a GPS enabled one, I would suggest not tampering, but if you must, do not disconnect the unit altogether, just leave the red, black and pink wires connected so that the system can communicate that it is powered back to the company that is responsible for the surveillance of that communication.

I Have a 1997 VW Cabrio, which is esseintially a convertable Jetta/Golf. I purchased the car used & it had an aftermarket stereo in it when I purchased it and the stock alarm worked. I think it is possible, because your stereo was stolen & The wires were cut, you may not be using a wiring harness. Using the appropriate harness is probably the key to having your alarm work w/the aftermarket stereo. My suggestion is to have the aftermarket stereo proffesionally installed. VW's, in my experience, tend to be picky machines, even though I love them. Before having the Pioneer installed it also may be wise to check your local salvage yards that have either a Jetta, Golf or Cabrio with the same configuration of your model and cut the factory harness out of the wrecked vehicle. If you take that to a stereo shop or VW dealership/Import professional they could wire that in, so that the appropriate harness to convert your stock stereo wiring to a pioneer could be accomplishied by simply pluging your stock harness into an aftermaket harness to fit your new pioneer stereo. I know it may sound complicated by the way I am describing this to you, but it really isn't. Finding the stock harness, ,which I would bet was stolen w/your stereo may be the most difficult hurdle for you. If you can't find one locally, there are search engines online for salvage yards and you could find on that way. A note of intrest for you regarding installing aftermaket stereos into VWs: The heat vents in my 97 run directly above the head unit and if you run your heater for a while, like during winter, the heated air blowing out directly above your stereo may cause problems. Just another VW quirk. I had to have small cooling fans installed on my stereo b/c the heater would overheat my stereo if I drove the car for aprox. over an hour or more. I'd hate to see you get the stereo installed properly, have the alarm working correctly & then boom, your stereo dies b/c it overheated. You can tell when your stereo overheats b/c you can "hear" it. I definitely suggested having these cooling fans installed to protect your investment. I wiswh I could explain this better, but when it comes down to it, you need that stock harness & it would be wise to have the new stereo proffesionally installed, even if you know how. VWs can be picky & this is one of those things your better off to have a professional handle. It will avoid alot of frustration, & in the end will probably save you money. Good luck. I wish I could help more.

it's something else in the engine, you need to take it to a mechanic

cause the battery is dead, you ran out of gas you did not put in park before you tried to start it , somebody put water in your gas tank. A better description would get you better answers.

depends. if there is a clicking noise than it could be the starter. but it could also be that your battery needs a jolt of juice. try to start the car with jumper cbles first and if that doesn't work then it is prob the starter probably , the battery is down

we had to go to the renault garage it cost something like £170 for a new key and code because the old one had stopped working. they've got you over a barrel.

Well, you figure about 200 for the new starter and allow up 200 for labor. It depends on the stuff that has to be moved to get to it. Also depends on the area of the country you live in for labor rates. They vary. It is a little less if you get a remanufactured starter, but that is your call. Good luck.

My 2000 GMC Jimmy is slow cranking. The battery voltage meter is showing charged so I am assuming that the starter is the problem. Where do I find the starter to remove it?

I have a 1998 Sable that has had the same problem. Every time it has been caused by a leak in a vacume tube. It has been replaced 3 times now on my car.

Wrong timing or dirty plugs.

Can be a multitude of causes usually due to incomplete combustion from an unbalanced air/fuel mix, poor spark delivery or lack of compression resulting in a slight miss or misfire which sends unburned fuel to "pop off" in your exhaust. Some is to be expected and normal, for example a sudden change in throttle position, like decelerating but it should not be routine. Start by checking for spark, have codes read if CEL is on and then move on to compression test if that looks good. If it's cylinder specific (code points to specific cylinder) , Check plug and wire on that cylinder/ Check plug gap and if any are fouled. Pull them one at a time if you have to to isolate cylinder (use insulated tool) Good luck.

the wire on the little peg is on the wrong one ther should be one directly across put it on that one to engage your starter

Yes it can as long as the battery is charged . The purpose of the alternator is to put the power used back into the battery.

When you turn the key, does the car just click...or do you hear cranking too? If all you hear is a click, it's a starter problem. Something that's easy to try is to get under the car with a hammer and LIGHTLY!!!! tap the starter while someone tries to crank the engine. A lot of times they just stick, and doing this will clear them up.