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Car Starting Problems
Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.
5,524 Questions
Several things could be going on, so I will try to help, though more info is actually needed. The first thing that I can think of is if the battery is too weak the symptom may be that the engine does not actually spin over while trying to start the vehicle, but you will hear a rapid clicking noise coming from the starter relay when the key is turned to the start position. If this is not it, then I need to know more, like, does the engine actually spin over? is the clicking occurring with the key turned on or off? Stuff like that.
It does not start because kill switch relay does not allow it. You need to test the relay and make sure that it works properly. Also you might have to check the security unit. Make sure that you have turn off security system before you start the car (sometimes remotes do not work properly).
Choke defective/broken. Incorrect Oil Viscosity: too thick drags Starter. Use Synthetic Oil if not already using.
Tired Starter (actually Tired Solenoid).
Worn/Corroded Battery Leads to Starter and Ground.
Corrosion at Battery Terminals, specifically Positive.
Bad/Loose/Corroded Engine to Chassis Ground.
Worn Spark Plugs.
Worn Spark "Wires".
Possible defect in Crank Position Sensor or other Sensor(s).
Fault in Ignition System incorporates all above except Oil.
In addition you may have a partially clogged fuel filter or a weak fuel pump that is failing.
What Could cause a 1994 Mazda MX6 to not start even though it has spark?
You can try spraying some carburetor cleaner into the intake by way of a vacuum line or pcv hose Just a little dab will do you. If the engine tries to start it would indicate that you have a fuel problem.
if the starter is good , then its possible. do you know how to do it?
The following is for older engines that use "points": One side of the coil should be "hot" when the key is on and the other side should be pulsing when the engine is turned over. When the points close, one side of the coil is "pulled to ground". First, check that you have voltage to the coil when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. Second, check that you have a good ground to the OTHER side of the coil when the points are closed. Today's solid state ignition systems are similar, but use transistors instead of a physical switch (points) that needs to be changed periodically. If it's computer controlled, check the diagnostic code.
This question can produce multiple answers, before you go any further try locating your starter relay located on the right side of the battery under a cover. this cover will give a diagram showing you where the relay is located. You can take the low or high beam relay and switch it with your starter and test both ways. (turn on high beams or headlight depending on swap, then trying to start this vehicle) If nothing happens then you can eliminate that and hook up a set of jumper cables to the battery and touching the positive cable to the starter. There will be a fat wire and a skinny wire the fat wire will be covered with plastic the skinny will have a plug that needs to be removed from starter. Where this plug is connected (on the starter side) touch the positive cable to the prong if vehicle turns over, you can eliminate a bad starter, then you can turn your key on and bump the starter again if vehicle starts you need a ignition switch or you need to check your wiring.
The Park and/or Neutral switch is out of adjustment. There is a hidden switch that must be engaged by mechanical means in order for the starter motor to be engaged. This is to prevent accidental starting while the car is in a forward or reverse motion gear, which could result in the vehicle moving in an undesirable direction.
How do you Reset the main computer in a car?
usually
you just disconnect the battery terminals for about 3 minutes.
What if your 86 ford ecoline van won't start?
Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run
WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START
Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?
To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem.
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.
STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS
What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.
If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit.
Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.
ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS
If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps.
Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening.
Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps.
If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices.
If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.
If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.
An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.
A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up.
A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings).
If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all.
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.
ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump
On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.
On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.
There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.
On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.
Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.
ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).
Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.
With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.
A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.
You ran over a deer and now your car will not start?
If your vehicle is equipped with an inertia switch (fuel pump power shut-off switch), it's likely it was tripped with the impact. Check your owner's manual or a Hayne's or Chilton's manual to find where it is located.
I am having the same problem I was thinking more ignition switch, but like your idea more
What are the Signs of a bad relay starter switch?
The most tell-tale sign is a single click when you try to start the engine.
1996 Chevy Astro van getting spark and fuel but will not start Any suggestions?
check to see if it's still in time and have the compression checked, if these four are correct it has to run. time, fuel compression and spark. hope it helps
Common problem on 700 and 900 series volvos. The fuel pump relay begins to occasionaly fail after 10 years or so. The relay is located behind the change tray/cig. lighter... near all of the fuses. It is the tall white one, kind of to the drivers (left) side. Volvo charges about $85 US dollars for the relay. I got the same relay through an independent repair shop for $55. Good for another 10 years or so.
How long does it take till you can start after engine flooding?
There are a lot of variables that determine the amount of time you need to wait.
* Condition of fuel is one of the more serious potential problems, with older fuel taking much longer to clear out and presenting a greater potential for flooding. * Poor engine compression will also make flooding into a much worse problem. * As will a weak ignition system In general, most injected (EFI) engines do not "flood" unless something is wrong with one or more injectors.
Once you've discovered which has caused the problem, try a little starting fluid. The ether in the starting fluid is so much more volatile that it will often start the engine even if other problems exist, and of course, once the engine starts, even with the starting fluid, it will clear out the flooding problem.
If you have a resistor embedded in your ignition key, it means your vehicle is equipped with a theft deterrent system, and from experience, the most common problem is a severed wire at the ignition cylinder. This would normally require replacing the ignition cylinder, which could get quite expensive because not only does it require replacing the cylinder, but would also need to cut new keys with the same resistence as the old keys. Keys cost in the $20 to $30 range, each! This cost is in addition to the cost of labor and the ignition cylinder. The way to fix this problem without replacing anything is simple: 1st, measure the resistence of the pellet embedded in the ignition key, using a digital volt/ohm meter. Then go to your nearest Radio Shack and get a resistor/s to match what you measured on the key. Then, cut the two thin white wires at the base of the steering column, the wires lead up, into the column and to the ignition cylinder. Connect each end of the resistor you got from Radio Shack to the wires you cut at the base of the column, doesn't matter how you connect to the wires. What you are doing is bypassing the resistor embedded in the key. good luck.
Is replacing the ECU on a 1998 kia sportage something anyone can do?
Changing the ECU is not a dificult task however, you may need a tool in order to pull the ECU from its slot. It should be located in the passenger side foot-well. Simply pull back the carpet and remove the ECU.
How do you turn off immobilizer on Renault clio?
Hi how I can bypass or cut of immobilizer for renalt clio 1998 1.2 8v 59hp imobilaizers is in main block ecu
Why does a car start and then cut off?
it could be a fuel filter maybe the one in your car is old and you need a new one
What could cause a 1991 Lincoln Town Car to stop running when you turn on the AC?
A dirty or defective idle air control valve (IAC). When you initialize the a/c, it sends a signal over to the Power Control Module(PCM)(Computer) and it energizes both the a/c clutch, and the IAC to raise the idle. If not, then the compressor is bad. The IAC valve(MOTOR)just needs 2 b cleaned (after it's off) with a Good Carberator cleaner-clean it until the cleaner runs clear & the pintel valve -inside-moves freely.
Where on a Buick V6 engine 3.3 liter is the Starter Located?
Just trace the positive (red) lead from the battery--it will lead you to the starter solenoid which is on top of and mounted to the starter motor. I own a 1993 Buick Century with a 3.3 litre engine and last summer my start died on me in the parking lot of subways luckily there was a NAPA store next door so I bought a starter... Come to find out the start is located under the front crossmember. In order to get to the starter you need to unbolt the engine and raise it about 6 inchs. I brought mine to the mechanic cost me $150. The starter cost 80 there was almost 2 hours in labor.
