Check Engine Light

Trouble code P0463 means:Fuel level sensor circuit high input

Trouble code P0573 means: Brake Switch No. 1 Stuck High/Off Should have no effect on the alternator.

The knock sensor is in the engine V under the intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe. As it requires considerable disassembly and an expensive new gasket set to reach it, I suggest you make very sure there is something wrong with it first. You will have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe assembly to reach it. Just because you are receiving a trouble code for it does not mean there is anything wrong with it. This sensor shares a circuit with other components that often will set a "ghost" trouble code.

Click the link for info on PO410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction

The local network of wiring, sensors, controllers, chips and other various bits of silicon in the Altima is apparently vastly complicated, so I won't bore you (or me) by addressing it in detail here. However, one thing I found interesting is that the MIL shines only under two conditions:

1) If the ECM detects what Nissan considers a "serious" fault (such as a misfire), the MIL illuminates immediately and the ECM stores a trouble code.

2) If, however, the ECM senses a less serious problem, such as a vacuum leak, the MIL does not illuminate immediately. Instead, the ECM stores an identifying trouble code and waits to see if the same fault arises during the next trip cycle, which roughly corresponds to the next time you hop in the car and drive it around after turning it off. If the ECM senses the same fault, it trips the MIL light and you get to wade into the ECM or make the always-entertaining trip to your local dealer.

Your dealer uses a scan tool called a Consult to interface with the ECM directly. However, shadetree mechanics can manually pull the trouble code(s) from the ECM and, if desired, clear the code from memory, thus putting out the Check Engine Light, which incidentally shines like the fires of Hades at night against the dimmed gauge cluster.

To check the fault code yourself from the comfort of your own garage, put the ECM in "Diagnostic Test Mode II" by doing the following:

1) Sit your butt in the driver's seat.

2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)

3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds. (If you've got bad ankles, give up now and drive the car to the dealer.)

4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold it down for about ten seconds until the MIL light begins flashing.

5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code. Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.) The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.

The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode. You can look up the trouble codes in the ESM/FSM; there's a bunch of them. In the ESM, refer to page EC-639. Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.

You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).

In my case, my trouble code was 0442 - "Evaporative System Small Leak" - discussed on page EC-973. This could indicate anything from a poorly sealed gas gap to a leak in the evaporative recovery system underneath the car. I checked everything I could and decided to clear the code, thinking that maybe a slightly loose gas cap might've been the culprit. It apparently was, as the MIL hasn't shined since.

This is exactly the kind of problem that I hate -- hate -- having dealer monkeys diagnose, as it takes hours and hours for them to dirty up the inside of my car, change all my radio presets, go through my trunk and glovebox and grease up the doorhandles and hood before they wander over and say, "Well, it's fine now." Noooo thank you.

One other interesting bit (well, I thought it was mildly entertaining at least) I ran across while poring through the OBD section was that the ECM often changes engine behavior when it senses a fault. We've all seen the posts from folks whose engines wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm, for example, and seen them report the bad news their dealers had provided: The MAF gave up the ghost.

Well, that may well be the case, but the fact that the engine wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm is not because the MAF died. It's instead because the ECM sensed a two-trip MAF failure, illuminating the MIL and storing an MAF trouble code. When this fault is detected, the ECM limits engine rpm to 2400 as a "limp home" or self-preservation tool. This is all well and good, but it doesn't necessarily mean the MAF is dead; it simply means that the ECM thinks the MAF is bad. Bringing the car home, yanking the trouble code and clearing it will restore full engine operation until the ECM senses MAF failure again twice. And as anyone who works with computers or other electronic gadges knows, the more complicated the machine the more prone it often is to freak out occasionally with neither rhyme nor reason. Clearing out the code once before taking the car to the dealer and having him take the ECM's word as God's own before presenting you with an $800 bill for a new MAF in this case may well protect your checkbook and your sanity. www.nissanforums.com

Trouble code P0740 means:Torque converter clutch circuit malfunction

Undoubtally you do not have an owners manual. I would think it would mean (Check Engine) That means you have a problem.

Sometimes simply disconnecting the battery will clear codes, or after cycling through the start mode so many times will do it .You can also plug an O.B.D. unit into your E.M.C. as a code reader and clear codes.

Pull the fuse for the ecm.

Gasoline engine - spark is cut off when ignition is turned off

Diesel engine- fuel is cut off when engine is shut down

An orange (actually "amber") warning light appears on vehicles near which drivers should be cautious but which aren't police or fire vehicles. Examples include road work vehicles, tow trucks, and trucks carrying unusual loads like a house.

Bad spark plug, plug wire or both. Also burnt valve, blown head gasket, or severely worn rings. A defective intake manifold gasket is another possibility.

No, man cannot make a rainbow. He may imitate nature by using light and water to initiate the process that does create a rainbow, but only nature can create a rainbow.

P0071=Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Range/Performance.

There is a temp sensor in the fresh air intake that monitors the ambient air temp coming into the engine. Check to see if it is disconnected.

On this van, the ambient temperature sensor is located in front of the bottom of the ac condenser.

Trouble code P0654 indicates a problem with the "Sensor Reference Voltage A." To fix this issue, first, check the vehicle's wiring and connectors for any damage or corrosion that could affect the voltage supply. Next, test the reference voltage using a multimeter to ensure proper voltage levels are being delivered. If the wiring and voltage are fine, the issue may lie in a faulty sensor or the Engine Control Module (ECM), which may need further diagnosis or replacement.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

Yes, it may cause a miss that will trigger the check engine light.

I have a 2002 caviler with the check engine light on .I have had it reset several time but will come back on within one week,

The CEL comes on because the on board diagnostics is sensing a problem. There are hundreds of causes for the CEL, some can be totally ignored (in that they won't cause a worse problem); others should be addressed or you could end up stranded roadside. Some, if not addressed will cause lower gas mileage, and soon you'll pay more in gas than the cost of the repair (and still have that annoying light on).

If you pay a mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem, he should reset the CEL.

You could stop by an auto parts store (AutoZone, Kragen) and have them scan the code and reset it. Ask if it's free before they do it.

If like many Subaru owners, you have something other to do on a daily basis than check and reset the CEL, you could buy an OBDII scanner ($50-$150) to (check the code) and reset the light manually. My Forester light comes on about 3 times per year, usually with a new problem that is never less than $250.

In my experience, ultimately, you want to sell the Subaru.

Same thing.

More than likely the heater burned out in the B1 S1 O2 sensor. First locate the B1 S1 O2 sensor, it would be the one threaded into the exhaust pipe directly behind the bank of cylinders that contain the number one cylinder. Inspect the wiring leading to it looking for damage/cuts in the wiring. If the wiring looks good, disconnect the sensor from the vehicle harness, cut the wires off of the bad sensor, slip a 7/8" box wrench over the sensor and remove it by turning counterclockwise. Install the new sensor using an 7/8" open end wrench and tighten as you would a spark plug. Plug the new sensor into the vehicle harness and your done.

To turn off a heater light, locate the power switch or thermostat control on the heater itself. If it’s an electric heater, you may also need to unplug it from the wall outlet. For central heating systems, adjust the thermostat to the off position. Always ensure that the heater is safely powered down before performing maintenance or cleaning.

Check the oil level in the car.

The rainbow is a sign of the covenant that God made with Noah and his sons and their descendants, that there would never again become a flood to destory all flesh Genesis 9:8-17

Trouble code P0440 means: EVAP System No Flow During Purge