Check Engine Light

it is in the manual says when this happens it is 02 sensor and if it is flashing you have a miss in your engine which can cause damage.

take postive side of battery off then put back on

Using mirrors or if it is travelling through water or if it is passing from cold to warm air or visa versa.

It measures something.

Have your TRS (transmission range sensor) checked out. I had the same problem. Took it to a mechanic where he diagnosed everything and then changed out the sensor = $150.24 (sensor was $51.99, rest was diagnisis & labor.

take off the negative battery terminal for at least 30 sec.if it still comes on go to a shop and get the codes your computer is putting out

Well, it could be many things, but usually it means that something is amiss in your emissions control system.

Often, a loose fuel cap can cause the check engine light to come on. Try tightening it, but wait a day or two to see if it helps or not.

If not, you can go to your local auto parts store and have them read the codes that the computer is throwing. Most of them will do this for free.

FriPilot

Adverb

Check for a vacuum leak.

Is the air conditioning turned on when this is happening? If so there is an air bleed screw/knob that needs to be adjusted (turned in or out) with the A/C turned on to decrease (turn clockwise) the amount of air that is bled into the intake manifold when the A/C is on.

It may also be a bad coolant temp sensor or as mentioned above you may have an air leak.

Is the "service engine soon" light on when the engine is running? If it is then you need to get someone (or yourself) to retrieve the code(s) from the ECU (computer in the car) as that may/will tell you what is not working properly. A Repair manual like Haynes or Chiltons will tell you how to jumper the diagnostic box under the hood so that with the ignition key turned on, will then allow you to retrieve the Diagnostic Codes.

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I have a '92 Paseo, M/T, it has well over 200K miles... and predictably, some issues with idle.

My troubleshooting here is for a M/T model. If yours is an auto, you may need to troubleshoot the throttle opener module for those cars. You'll need to consult a Toyota or Chilton's service manual for how-to.

On a M/T '92, low or rough idle is much more common than high idle. Unless you've been messing with the idle screw atop the intake manifold, it doesn't just creep up on its own. However, there's one cause of high idle that IS very common: the infamous IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Even so, it usually prevents the car from starting, rather than causes high idle. But since it's easiest, let's fix and rule this out.

The IACV is a thermally-operated valve that opens and raises idle when the engine is cold, to speed warming of the engine and catalyst. Set correctly, it should top out at 1500 rpm, and as coolant via hoses warms the bimetallic spring inside the IACV, it'll close, slowly bringing idle down to a normal 750 rpm, fully warm.

When they fail, they usually fail fully-open, or fully-closed; yours may have failed fully-open. Here's how to fix it...

-- engine cold and off

-- remove the intake air hose clamps (for the big black hose connecting air filter box and throttle body). Remove the side hose going to the valve cover, and set aside.

-- On the floor of the TB, outside the brass throttle plate, is a big hole about 7 o'clock. This is the air bypass port for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner all around in it, for a few seconds (don't go too crazy, though). Let set for a few minutes, repeat once.

-- while you're in here, get an old toothbrush, and spray the throttle plate with cleaner, and scrub off the dirt and crap on it (open the bellcrank to clean the inside of the plate, too). This can improve response, power and mileage, if the buildup is bad enough. Wipe off any excess cleaner.

-- Reinstall the air hose. There are two arrows on the hose that line up with arrows and marks on the TB and air filter box -- make sure they line up, or when the engine rocks, it can damage a poorly-installed hose.

-- Get in the car, and start the engine WOT. This is to allow air to get in and cut the fumes from the cleaner; otherwise it won't start. You may need to crank for a few seconds to get it to catch. Several cranks at a few seconds each, are better than one long one; save your battery.

-- Is idle still high? If not, your IACV was stuck open; should be better now. If so, shut off engine and go on to the next adjustment... you'll need an inductive tachometer for this one -- can't use the car's tach unless you have no other choice.

-- Get a big paper clip. This is your jumper wire. Look next to the fuse box in the engine compartment (next to the air filter box) for a small brown box; this is your diagnostic port. On the inside of the cover, look for the location of TE1 and E1 connectors.

-- Start engine cold, and rev to 2500 rpm for two mins. You need the engine warm enough to completely close the IACV, but not hot enough to kick on the cooling fan.

-- When the engine it warmed, go to the diag port and jump TE1 and E1. The idle should change and a clicking sound should be distinctly audible. This is normal.

-- Take a blade screwdriver and twirl the idle screw atop the intake manifold, above the TB under the rubber plug, until the tach shows 750 rpm.

-- Remove the paper clip when done, close the diag port cover and remove the tach. Go for a test drive. If it's still too high, consult a service manual.

Impossoble to say with out knowing what the problem is.

1. travel at the speed of light 2. enter a blackhole 3.make a timemchine or visite a scientsect

It stands for Enhanced Traction System, and it helps both tires during slippery conditions.

erase all codes and don`t fiil up with the engine running and don`t leave your gas cap loose

To check the code on the 2004 Dodge Durango you can also KEY from the on to start position 4 times (eg. Off to start, off to start, off to start, off) and the code should show up in the odometer reading. For example I just had the MIL come on and I did the KEY thing and found the code was P 0456. If you don't see something try turn the key again three times and then on the fourth turn leave it in the start position. It should show up. the durango need to be pluged into a type of computer that can communicate with the powertrain control module (pcm) if you have an engine malfunction light on. the drb will give you a code, the code will give you an area of the vehicle to inspect ie p0456 (large evaporitive emidssion leak detected) then you will have to inspect that system to find the cause of the code

Trouble code P0611 means: Furl injector control module - performance

it can be a number of problems

O2 sensor

mass airflow sensor

any sensor gone bad or going bad

gas cap loose

plug wire grounding out. cause preignition. knocking sound

go get a free diagnostic at any automotive part store

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1998 rav4 engine wont idle and clacking noise from under timing belt cover

Since it is OBD11 it requires a scanner to retrieve the codes. Most parts stores will read then for free.

you can use a car scanner to clear it out.

The engine warning light for emissions might come on in a Toyota Celica if the Oxygen Sensors are bad. It might also come on if the catalytic converter is not working properly or is plugged.

You would have to connect a diagnostic tool to it to find out exactly, but, in general, the yellow check engine light indicates a problem with the emissions control system. Usually this doesn't significantly affect how the vehicle runs, and isn't a critical problem, but it does mean that the engine either may be using more fuel or may be polluting more, or both. And, if you live somewhere that requires vehicle emissions testing, your vehicle will fail automatically if the check engine light is on.

This may or may not be your problem, but (perhaps) the most common cause for the check engine light to come on in Dakotas of this age is cracked vacuum lines, particularly at a valve located near the battery, and/or near the fuel vapour canister under the cab inside the driver's side frame rail. Sometimes you can just trim the line a little shorter to eliminate the crack, but sometimes you'll need to replace the whole line. Either way, it's a really cheap fix if you do it yourself.

Also worthy of note; The check engine light can only be turned off using certain diagnostic tools, which can make it difficult to figure out if you've fixed the problem, so if you opt to purchase one, make certain that it has the ability to reset the light. Decent ones run about $50-$200.

If the AC light is blinking in the Toyota 98 Sienna, it means that something is internally wrong with your AC, it has stopped working, and it is recommended that you take it to the dealer to repair. This is not a very specific answer, but that is exactly what it says in the user manual. I find if I stop, turn off the car and AC for about 15 minutes, then restart, it will work again, until a week later and I have to repeat the process.