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Check Engine Light
The check engine light comes on in a car when the engine is experiencing a problem. Ask questions here about your car's check engine light.
7,238 Questions
Trouble code P0446 means:Evaporative emission control system vent control circuit malfunction
How do you turn off the check engine light on a 2001 RAV4?
Just disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes, and that will clear the error code that's causing the "Check Engine" light to come on. Careful with those pesky little clips to the battery compartment cover...they break easily.
Trouble code P0740 means:Torque converter clutch circuit malfunction
How do you reset the check engine light on a 2002 Trailblazer?
By having the problem that exists with the emissions controls repaired. Check to see if the gas cap was off or not on properly. If that's the case, the light will go automatically in 2 to 3 days. If not, then you have a bigger problem that would require mechanical help with diagnostic equipment. Any dealer or repair shop should be able to tell what's up.
Why service ride control light is on what to do?
it meqans that the electronic ride control is disabled. Usually due to a bad level sensor which is located on the shock. It is a hazard that needs to be fixed because it will reduce the stability of the vehicle. Also causes the vehicle stability system to be inoperative if it is so equipped.
does the shocks need to be replace or just the censor
Trouble code P0456 means: EVAP Control System Very Small Leak (0.020") Detected
What does the orange dashboard light on a Volvo S80 that looks like an engine mean?
sheck your message board it'll tell you could be lamp out
Why would a Daewoo Matiz lose engine power?
Could be any number of things. Could be:-
1. Blockage in your fuel filter
2. Blockage in your cat convertor
3. Blockage in your fuel pipe
4. Faulty Map/Oxygen sensor
5. Dirty or faulty injector
6. Exhaust Blockage
7. Low Voltage i.e. battery/HT lead/Dissy Cap/Rotar Arm/Sparks
(you may be running on only 2 cyclinders!)
and this list is by no means exhausted...
My advice is to cough up £60/£70 and go to a dealer to get a read out, but before that do number 1 & 7 as they are cheap to do, any probably needs changing anyway!
Regards,
Daewooboy
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My 2001 Matiz recently had some problems. Initially, when trying to start the motor, it wouldn't start and there was no noise at all indicating a problem with the starter motor. After clutch starting it and 5km down the road, it began to lose power finally losing all power at the traffic lights. After getting it towed, I was told that it was a problem with the computer and that the starter motor, battery and alternator were perfect and there was no blockage in the fuel pipe.
A Holden representative had to visit the mechanic with his piece of equipment that interprets the error code that was coming from the computer and there was found to be a problem with the cambus part in computer. Additionally, there was found to be water in the distributor (how it got here I don't know how). All up to fix this issue was $140 AUSTRALIAN DOLLAR. $100.00 was for the hour the Holden rep spent at the mechanics performing the diagnostic system scan. The $40 AUD was the mechanic's work fixing the distributor (apparently there was a distributor pipe that was facing upwards allowing water to enter).
I hope this helps,
Trojan Princess
What does a dash light that looks like a watering can mean on a 2005 caravan?
Low oil pressure warning light.
Even if light turns off the code is still present is it?
Yes, The MIL, Service Engine Soon, light may and can be off even if codes still remain on the ECM when scanned with OBD2 scanning tools. A code with a pending reading may also be scanned and MIL be off. As soon as the ECM reads repeated pending codes it triggers the MIL light. There the code remains until the sensor and or problem are resolved. The MIL light will then go out during a relearning, drive cycle and remain even though the light goes out. Your vehicle may very well pass state inspection as long as MIL is out. Best bet is to clear these codes and do the drive cycle, watching until all monitors have been scanned to be complete, MIL off. Run to the inspection station, pay the state requirement and tip the inspector. This is a very great thing. Dave
Why would a 'service engine soon' light keeping turning on and off in a 1998 Dodge Neon?
Take it to a auto zone and find out what codes are stored. If there are no apparent problems or noises, try having the oxygen sensor checked. It doesn't have anything to do with the car running properly, it's an emissions control device. If you turn the ignition key on,off,on,off,on with in a five second period the service engine soon light will flash a code number to tell you what the problem is. you can get the trouble codes in a Haynes repair manual page 6-3.
Depending on the year of the vechile you can clear error codes several different ways. If the vechile is pre 95 you can disconnect power to the battery for ten minutes and that will clear the stored codes. If the vechile is post 95 you have to have a scanner hooked up to clear the codes. 96 and up there is a hand scanner that can be purchased at your local parts store so you can scan and remove the code.
my 2 centsThis is more than needed but I am trying to give a broader explanation. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or �monitors� are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. To start testing for the check engine light, you�ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that it won�t come back on. But don�t bet on it. Lastly, disconnecting the battery in some cars will clear the memory of the computer and may temporarily turn the light off. Beware that this may also cause other problems such as the car not rembering it�s idle and will have to relearn it, the radio may be rendered inoperative or in the case of the new Toyotas, the air bag can blow.
This Is an Addition to his answer.
He is trying to over explain.. Just undo your negative battery terminal for 30 minutes then re connect it. this should clear any fault codes. the exception is if there is still a problem then it wont work.
I have a 93 Stealth as well. That light is the low coolent indicator. Check our coolent level. I just filled the over flow canister and it would go off. Until I had to change the radiator that is. Now it stays off.
What may cause a 2001 Mercury Cougar flashing engine light.?
it is in the manual says when this happens it is 02 sensor and if it is flashing you have a miss in your engine which can cause damage.
Reset the check engine light on a 1995 Toyota Tacoma?
take postive side of battery off then put back on
How can light turn round a corner?
Using mirrors or if it is travelling through water or if it is passing from cold to warm air or visa versa.
When the check light is on why would the overdrive light come on and blink?
Have your TRS (transmission range sensor) checked out. I had the same problem. Took it to a mechanic where he diagnosed everything and then changed out the sensor = $150.24 (sensor was $51.99, rest was diagnisis & labor.
Reset service light on BMW 1998 5 series?
take off the negative battery terminal for at least 30 sec.if it still comes on go to a shop and get the codes your computer is putting out
Why would a service light come on in a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire?
Well, it could be many things, but usually it means that something is amiss in your emissions control system.
Often, a loose fuel cap can cause the check engine light to come on. Try tightening it, but wait a day or two to see if it helps or not.
If not, you can go to your local auto parts store and have them read the codes that the computer is throwing. Most of them will do this for free.
FriPilot
Check for a vacuum leak.
Is the air conditioning turned on when this is happening? If so there is an air bleed screw/knob that needs to be adjusted (turned in or out) with the A/C turned on to decrease (turn clockwise) the amount of air that is bled into the intake manifold when the A/C is on.
It may also be a bad coolant temp sensor or as mentioned above you may have an air leak.
Is the "service engine soon" light on when the engine is running? If it is then you need to get someone (or yourself) to retrieve the code(s) from the ECU (computer in the car) as that may/will tell you what is not working properly. A Repair manual like Haynes or Chiltons will tell you how to jumper the diagnostic box under the hood so that with the ignition key turned on, will then allow you to retrieve the Diagnostic Codes.
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I have a '92 Paseo, M/T, it has well over 200K miles... and predictably, some issues with idle.
My troubleshooting here is for a M/T model. If yours is an auto, you may need to troubleshoot the throttle opener module for those cars. You'll need to consult a Toyota or Chilton's service manual for how-to.
On a M/T '92, low or rough idle is much more common than high idle. Unless you've been messing with the idle screw atop the intake manifold, it doesn't just creep up on its own. However, there's one cause of high idle that IS very common: the infamous IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Even so, it usually prevents the car from starting, rather than causes high idle. But since it's easiest, let's fix and rule this out.
The IACV is a thermally-operated valve that opens and raises idle when the engine is cold, to speed warming of the engine and catalyst. Set correctly, it should top out at 1500 rpm, and as coolant via hoses warms the bimetallic spring inside the IACV, it'll close, slowly bringing idle down to a normal 750 rpm, fully warm.
When they fail, they usually fail fully-open, or fully-closed; yours may have failed fully-open. Here's how to fix it...
-- engine cold and off
-- remove the intake air hose clamps (for the big black hose connecting air filter box and throttle body). Remove the side hose going to the valve cover, and set aside.
-- On the floor of the TB, outside the brass throttle plate, is a big hole about 7 o'clock. This is the air bypass port for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner all around in it, for a few seconds (don't go too crazy, though). Let set for a few minutes, repeat once.
-- while you're in here, get an old toothbrush, and spray the throttle plate with cleaner, and scrub off the dirt and crap on it (open the bellcrank to clean the inside of the plate, too). This can improve response, power and mileage, if the buildup is bad enough. Wipe off any excess cleaner.
-- Reinstall the air hose. There are two arrows on the hose that line up with arrows and marks on the TB and air filter box -- make sure they line up, or when the engine rocks, it can damage a poorly-installed hose.
-- Get in the car, and start the engine WOT. This is to allow air to get in and cut the fumes from the cleaner; otherwise it won't start. You may need to crank for a few seconds to get it to catch. Several cranks at a few seconds each, are better than one long one; save your battery.
-- Is idle still high? If not, your IACV was stuck open; should be better now. If so, shut off engine and go on to the next adjustment... you'll need an inductive tachometer for this one -- can't use the car's tach unless you have no other choice.
-- Get a big paper clip. This is your jumper wire. Look next to the fuse box in the engine compartment (next to the air filter box) for a small brown box; this is your diagnostic port. On the inside of the cover, look for the location of TE1 and E1 connectors.
-- Start engine cold, and rev to 2500 rpm for two mins. You need the engine warm enough to completely close the IACV, but not hot enough to kick on the cooling fan.
-- When the engine it warmed, go to the diag port and jump TE1 and E1. The idle should change and a clicking sound should be distinctly audible. This is normal.
-- Take a blade screwdriver and twirl the idle screw atop the intake manifold, above the TB under the rubber plug, until the tach shows 750 rpm.
-- Remove the paper clip when done, close the diag port cover and remove the tach. Go for a test drive. If it's still too high, consult a service manual.
Could it have something to do with the ecm ground?
Impossoble to say with out knowing what the problem is.
