Chevy Astro

Hi,

If you are looking to change the headlight bulb, or the headlight assembly in a Venture van, the procedure is pretty simple.

There are three (3) wing nut type screws that have to be removed to get the headlight assembly out, where you can either replace the bulb or the entire assembly. Once the screws are out, then the headlight assembly, along with the side marker assembly, comes out by pulling the entire assembly straight out (for the side marker) or "Up & Out", in the case of the headlight assembly.

Once the assembly is out of the van, then the bulb can be removed by simply unscrewing the socket from the back of the assembly and putting in a new bulb. Make sure you do not touch the glass of the new bulb with your bare fingers, as the oil on your fingers will get on the bulb and will get very hot when the light is on. This would reduce the life of the new bulb.

I have placed a link to a site that shows where the wing nuts are and how to remove these assemblies.

Good Luck, Greg

Trouble code P0172 means:System too rich (Bank 1)

i recently had this problem....i corrected it by buying a stronger battery.....starts every time now in 0 degree weather.

1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.

no it is has a safety interlock to prevent activation.

sounds like a bad hub assembly/wheel bearing

My 1999 Pontiac Montana would seem to "skip a beat" while driving. It then started stalling and restarting, all while driving at highway speeds. My mechanic found that an electrical cable that carried an engine sensor signal was leaning against a hot part of the engine. The cable insulation had melted or worn through, causing intermittent shorts. The shorts confused the engine computer, which then stalled the engine. He simply rerouted the cable and all was fine after that.

Fuel pump problem

I have 15x8 on my 86 Safari van with 5x5 bolt pattern no rubbing even with 235-65-15 tires, I also have 245-60-15's that I run during the summer on 16x7 wheels

When you open the hood the IAT (intake air temp) sensor is embedded in the air intake snorkel before the intake throttle body. If you were to take the air intake off you would have to take off the MAF (mass airflow sensor) connector and the IAT in order to do so.

you have to put the front of van on ramps and take off the grill header and bumper with van on ramps it will give you clearance to pull engine with cherry picker

computer fuse blow out when turn ighition on what is the cause

There are two options to go with. I'm answering from experience with indoor turf playing paintball. There are several "Turf" cleats available whose bottom consists of tons of little spikes that grip well. Another not so well known option are athletic shoe style golf cleats. They offer very good grip but are difficult to find. Regular style golf shoes are built more like shoes and do not flex well. Either will offer excellent grip even with paint soaked turf.

To remove the rear half doors (barn doors) on 94 and up astro van, you must remove the hinge "pins". They can be a bear to get out.Doors that are still on the vehicle can best be removed by using an air chisel between the head of the pin and hinge.If they are off,such as used doors you can also use an air chisel with a punch and drive the pin from the bottom upwards.If they are stubbon you may have to use heat.The hinges are welded to the door frame and body so the only serviceable parts are the pins and bushings.

you either dont have very good anti freeze or you need a battery with more cranking amps. you should also try putting grease(not wd40 or other lubes that come in a can) around your pulleys where the belt runs through because they could be freezing up and sticking together. More Info: Engine Cranks over fine, Fuel Pump appears to be working, Engine just will not fire, when it starts to warm up outside, no problem starts right up. Problem shows up when vehicle sits outside and weather is cold and damp overnight. The problem was the coil. It had a slight crack in the body and it was arcing to the frame. Suspect that when it was cold and damp it could not generate enough spark to get the engine to fire.

If this is an automatic transmission, which I am assuming it is it will not work the same as a standard. Only drive it in overdrive or 1st gear.

The old headliner and glue has to be removed from the headliner backer. New headliner material is then glued to the backer. The backer may need to be removed from the van to replace the liner.

There are two rods within the door. One of them has disengaged from the door latch actuator bar which is triggered when you push the door-open button. You can get to the rods without worrying about opening the back door.

First, remove the centrally located door handle. Carefully pry off the bolt covers on each end of the handle and remove the bolts. Second, remove the four screws holding the window trim in place. The trim will be held in place with metal clips around the window (you can't see them). Pry the trim loose carefully after removing the screws and remove it.

You should now see an opening with the rear wiper motor and door latch rods in view. Look to see if one of the rods is "hanging loose". If so, you've found the problem. You should also see a vertical but somewhat tilted actuator in the center of the apparatus with a hole for the rod empty. Life the end of the rod and push it back into the hole until is snaps. The snap is passive, not much to it. Finally, check with your local GMC dealer prior to this work and see if you can get a new clip (if needed) to attach to the rod end you just pushed back into the actuator hold. Reassemble and you're done.

Really not too bad a job. Good luck.

The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.

ummmmmm. perfume

Whether in a Saab or any car, the CHECK ENGINE light is an indication that something has gone out of spec. It is most often something in the emisisons system. A code is stored in the car's on-board computer and needs to be read with a diagnostic computer. Once the problem has been diagnosed, the technician can proceed with repair. Saab generally uses a proprietary computer system, so only Saab dealers have the proper diagnostic computer. Some independent Saab shops have purchased used computers from Saab dealers and may be able to help. == == the check engine light will come on as a function of mileage since the last time it was reset. I don't remember >exactly< how to reset it so it doesn't come on each time you start the engine, but I do remember it has to do with using the "clear" button on the SID. I think you hold the clear button down, and after 4 or 8 seconds it will change it's mode and display...but keep holding it down and a few seconds later it will actually clear and reset the 'check engine' light. Sorry I don't remember what mode the SID display should be in to start the clearing process. (I just bought a 1996 SAAB 900 convertible a few months ago...had the check engine light start coming on, did some web searches and came up with this solution...which I partially remember. :{)

1 and it is located behind the air intake ...take off your air cleaner and casing..its behind there

Usually this would mean that one of your turn signal bulbs is burnt out either front, side, or rear, check them first, if not, you may either have a short in the switch, causing it to stay on. It could also be due to a bulb which was not getting a solid connection; check to make sure they haven't jiggled themselves loose, causing a faulty connection.