Chevy Cavalier Z24

I have successfully replaced a convertible top on my 95 mustang and published an article on how to do it. See the link below.

put a nice shiny muffler and that will add 25 hp and 14ft lbs of torque not sure how many ponies you got. but if you want more you can try a performance rebuild. port and polish your head, header and larger exhaust, high compression pistons, bigger cams. the sky's the limit. you can even buy superchargers for you're car. check out import performance parts, alot of cavy stuff. A stock 1989 Z24 has about 130-140HP at umm I think 4500 RPM and about 145-150lb torque at 4500 RPM. More torque than power. I found that pretty cool. To mod up your Z24 is kind of hard. One reason being that the car was made before 1990. Finding parts that you can install are hard to find. Easy mods would be like a basic tune-up. Sparkplugs, all fluids, manifolds, cool-air intake, exhaust. Junk like that. your pushing about 115 at 3400 rpm, improvement? pull that bad 2.8 out and drop an 00+ 3400 motor in *alero* *grand am* etc. tranny will bolt in, have to make a custom motor mount, change the injectors from the 2.8 into the 3400 and buy new throttle cables. THERE ARE NO BOLT ON SUPERCHARGERS, TURBOCHARGERS ETC. all custom made. check out www.v6z24.com TONS OF INFO well i got a 89 pushing liek 200 horse bone stock motor this is what i did hypertech chip 165 thirmstat stage 2 clutch racing flywheel 16 racign wheels custom made cold air intake raised the voltage up to 15 volts msd ignation msd coil packs accel 8.8 race wires coustom made split fire plugs hi flow cat and flowmaster mufflier and the car still makes it through ct emishions but the exhaust and intake are about 130 debicals have gotten 2 tickes so far.. my new plans are rugh idle cam new rockers cast iron head forged pistons .030 over comaro 3.4 intake and throtle body modifuyed bigger and rewired fuil pump everything pored and polished and port mached headers wich were never made for this car ony fo rthe motor custom y pipe 2.5 exhaust all the way back and race computer and race axels that will give u about 300 horse if u want true power put a turbo and get everytihng coustom made

I just replaced the serpentine belt on my 1999 cavalier Z24 today. There is a tention pully that constantly pushes on the belt to keep it tight. There is a bolt head in the middle of this pully. Normally it's 15mm. You'll need an open end wrench to put on the bolt head. Put it on and turn it counter clockwise. You'll feel the entire pully move and you will see your belt loosen. It's not a good idea to let go of the pully. Try to keep pressure on it till you get the new belt in place. Like I said I have a 99 Cavy there may be some differences but it should go about the same for you.

.060 2.3 and 2.4 OHC Engines 95-97 0.060,,, 98-01 0.050

You have to turn on your car for the radio to work

Hold the button RCL and change the time by pressing up and down on the tune buttons if your car radio doesnt have the RCL buttun use the buttone that changes the view from clock to radio station.

Go to Maxima.org and ask the question there.

Emergency Fuel Shutoff is a sensor that is designed to detect collisions and shut off the fuel supply to the engine in case of damage. It's goal is to reduce the likely hood of fire/explosion.

There are not limits on horse power, The limits are on the particular parts that are on the vehicle. Some states do not allow certain parts to be used on the street, for example: Dart racing heads are not allowed in some states, Most parts come with warnings indicating that there are states not allowing the use of the part. If you are not sure about your part check with the manufacturer.

With a simple flashlight battery.Connect wires to the speaker then breifly touch the wires to the battery and watch the speaker.If you have positive to positive and negative to negative the speaker will "push outwards" if you have it reversed it will "suck inwards"

change the map sensor

Well I will let you know shortly, I did clean the throtle body with a good carburetor cleaner as was suggested for another car and right now the code did not come back as yet and it did not trigger a single event as yet.Next would be to flush out this valve and then replacement.

transmission filler is located under the car. car needs to be jacked up to replace and refill transmission.

Disconnect the battery.Jack the car up and place on stands. Next, place a board on the jack and jack it up until it's tight under the oil pan. Starting on the passenger side of the car, locate the AC lines. You'll notice they are secured to a upper motor mount. Remove the nuts holding the clip in place. Next remove the remaining nuts UNDER the previous ones.Remove a 10mm screw holding the coolant reservoir just behind the headlight. Now tilt towards the engine and lift carefully, and place out of the way. Remove remaining nuts to remove what's left of the upper motor mount. Now being sure the jack is still in place, remove the 2 large bolts that connect the outer half of the mount with the motor half of the mount. At this point the motor should start shifting around. BE SURE THE JACK IS STEADY!

Now remove the belt by releasing tension on the tensioner/ idler pulley. There are three bolts holding the Alternator in place. 2 go in from above and one from the side where the belt just was. Once removed the alternator will need to be unplugged by A) a wiring harness and B)a 13mm nut (red wire).

"Dance" the alternator out of it's current position and have it tested. NEXT, have the NEW ONE TESTED ALSO!!! If your battery is dead, BUY A NEW ONE!! The alternator WILL NOT charge a dead battery. Rather, the dead battery will destroy the internal diodes of the new alternator, forcing you to buy ANOTHER alternator. NOT FUN!

Wire up the new alternator, bolt it in place, re-attach the fender-half of the upper motor mount first, then line up the engine (rock it back and forth if you have too, being sure it stays on the jack)mount with the fender mount and bolt in the last remaining bolts.

This ISN'T the easiest thing to do by yourself. A second STRONG person should assist you.

Good Luck!

I just installed a strter in my 1975 Ford F-100, 400 V8. I am a novice mechanic and I was able to do the job with little trouble. Just remove the wire and remove the mounting bolts(on mine there were only 2 and they were obvious).

The starter slides out and the install is just as simple. My only issue was clearance on the back bolt. I just had to use very short strokes on the ratchet.

Good Luck.

but a chevy and ford not the same ford bolts to the bell housing. chevy bolts to the block. chevy has wires to the starter. ford goes to the fender well.

I have a 4 cyl. Chevy Corsica that needed a coil pack replaced. There are two of them, one goes with the odd number cylinders ( 1 & 3) and the other goes with the even number cylinders (2 & 4) Typically, the number 1 cylinder is the firing cyliinder and if that coil pack is gone, the car should not start. My car is a rarity that actually started and ran on the 2 & 4 cylinders.

It's not as easy as it should be - you have to remove all of the obvious stuff to gain access to the cover from the top. Remove serpentine belt. Jack up passenger front wheel, secure with jack stands. Remove the splash shield to gain access to the crank pulley, remove that pulley, loosen all of the timing cover bolts. Put the crank pulley retaining bolt back on crank and use it to rotate engine to top dead center (align little dots on crank and case). Then mark the chain where it meets the two cam sprockets, remove the chain tensioner (lower on the engine, near the crank). Next, remove the two cam sprockets from the cams. Then the trick is to remove all the bolts in the face of the timing cover that hold it to the block plus loosen the nuts that hold the water pump (under the exhaust manifold) to the timing cover. Don't remove the nuts entirely or you'll have trouble getting them started again (at least the one nearest the engine block). With the water pump loose enough, you should have enough clearance to get the cam cover off the top of the cam housing. You can do all of this without removing any of the engine mounts, but you will have to work with the timing cover to find just the position that it will go up over the mount and allow you to work inside the timing chain housing. I'd recommend getting a Chilton's manual - what I've stated is not working line for line from that book, but what I've figured out by using that book as a reference and doing a bit of experimenting.

900 crank horsepower is a safe "new" boss 302 number

368-376

The airbag warning light is indicating the airbag(s) may NOT be functionig. As it says in the manual, "Ignoring the AIRBAG warning light in your instrument panel could mean you won't have the airbags to protect you, (or your passangers), in a collision...have the airbag system checked RIGHT AWAY." Always wear your seatbelt!!! On my 2004 there is a light on the passanger grab bar that indicates the passanger airbag is off. This happens when a child is in the seat to protect the child from the sudden force of an airbag. It can also be fooled by a package or briefcase on the seat. This is normal. When an adult sits on the passanger side the light should go off. This information was an addition to the 2004 manual.

yes

I agree.....

The price for a fog light on a Chevy Cavalier varies slightly by the year of the car. This part can be purchased between 20.50 and 24.99 at most auto stores.

It means your traction control is turned off. Should be a button for it on the side of your shifter.