Chevy Cheyenne

There are two ways to drain the fuel tank... One is to siphon it... The other is to drop the tank from below remove the fuel pump assembly and then turn the tank over to pour the fuel out. I would recommend using both methods together if you need all the fuel out or if your changing the fuel pump. Siphoning will get the majority out but not. and if your dropping the tank anyway siphoning will make it lighter and easier to work with.

the bottom right side The oil pressure sending unit that makes either the light or gauge work is located behind the distributor.

Here's a link I just found. Hope this helps

http://www.bodyshopzone.com/archives/trim/door_panels/Chevy/CK1500_1998/dp_remove_chevy.html

Pick-up trucks are rated by how much they can haul. A half-ton truck can safely haul 1000 pounds. ......That is incorrect I drive a Half ton that has a 10,500 tow capacity.... -It's correct, it doesn't relate to tow capacity, it relates to what you can carry in the bed, or otherwise cargo.

regular everyday powersteering fluid will work or you can use a dex III transmission fluid. it will work the same and be cheaper.

1972 chevy cheyenne 10 super with 400 big block price will be at price of 19,900 $

Stick with the coil recommended by Mallory.

Actually that casting number covers the years from 1968 to 1979. 2 and 4 bolt mains. A very generic 350 number

Will it bolt right in? No. Can it be done? Yes. Anything, can be done to any vehicle, at any time. That is hot rodding. And, part of hot rodding, is vision. If you can see it, you can do it. And installing it would be a form of hot rodding, called customizing. That is how Chip Foose, Boyd Coddington, Ed Roth, ect., got started. They looked at a car, and saw something other than what was sitting there. Once you get started, fabrication is easy, rewarding, and a source of pride. Not to mention, a talent of high income, or a big money saver, as a hobby. I would start by drawing it out on paper. Draw a picture on paper, of the instalation area, without a grill in it. Make plans on how you are going to cut, if needed, or fill, if that is the case. Fiberglass, works great as a filler, and is easy to work with, to fill gaps. Bend cardboard in the shape you need, then form the fiberglass over it for contour. Remember to use the same form to shape both sides for uniformity. Then plan on how you will attach, or secure it, and if you will need to move, or ad lights, for blinkers. If you have all of this drawn, and planned out, the actual job will be a breeze, and fun.

two

25 U.S. Gallons. For the exact number (which is like 25.322) or something like that, check your owners manual.

should be 8k or 9k lbs.

Check for a loose power steering belt.

Short answer:

Clogged fuel filter Bad distributer coil Bad egniter Bad fuel pump

Or it could be the valve connected to the fuel rail/intake manifold which manages the air/fuel. It involves water lines that tell the cold start injector system whether the engine is warm or not. (Can't remember the name this early in the morning) If this valve is in need of cleaning, or has mal-functioned, it will not let the vehicle start or it will start, only to die immediately.

A mechanic would start by seeing if there is spark to the spark plugs, then he would jump the check connector with the fuel line disconnected to check for fuel delivery to the rail. Remember: check spark FIRST, then fuel, for safety's sake. If you have spark to the plugs when the engine cranks, and you have fuel, then it would be time to check that valve. It is located under the manifold (where the butterfly valve is)where the big air hose connects from the filter box/air control unit.

Hope this helps....

Aunt

hi mate, i have a Toyota 2.0gt. try having a look at the timing belt. if this has gone your engine will turn over but not start. be sure not to turn it over too many times or u might nacker engine. hope this helps mate..

go to kelly blue book enter all your info and look for the page with the original specs. good luck caddyman94

Depending on the year, 160 to 180 HP.

Need to know the model. There'll be a significant difference in the transmission used for an S10 when compared to a 3500 pickup.

Use a good quality timing light and check your ignition timing.

Bad distributor cap, wires, plugs, injectors, low compression, broken valve spring,

vacuum leak. Realey need to know the year, to help you better.

have you tried opening up your door and trying to fix it?

my handle on the outside woulnt work so i opened it up and there is a linkage with a screw holding it together, adjusting this nut to the center most position fixed it. now it opens just fine. otherwise its a 250+ fix

According the the owners manual on a 2.2L 1997 manual, 2-door, it says it holds 15.2 gallons. An owner's manual update (for my 2000 model) I got with my used Cavalier says change to 14.2 gallons .

There should be a belt tensioner on one of the pullies on the passenger side of the engine. What you need to do is get a ratchet without a socket on it and there's a hole that it fits into on the tensioner, push the whole thing down and it'll loosen the belt up so you can slip it off. Just remember how the belt was on in the first place and you should be all set.

Yes. The engine choices were all available from 1/2 ton to 1 ton. you could get the 396 in the 1/2 ton and you could get the 250 (I6) in the 1 ton.

If you are getting 17 in the city and 30 on the highway then that's really not bad at all .. City driving is awful on MPG .. Unless you have a hybrid city driving just burns fuel .. If you check for similar sized 4 cylinder engines you will see that 17 city is respectable and within range of the high low of similar sized engines ..

Engines of 1.5 to 1.8 liter of course will give slightly more and they are also probably on a lighter framed vehicle ..

all you need is different motor mounts and then some minor things that might pop up. it should bolt up to the tranny that's in it.

The rear window defrost/defog heater grid.