Chevy G20

under the dash on the passenger side

remove motor mount. jack up engine by the harmonic balancer...be careful. install blocks of wood in between frame and engine. then remove and replace freeze plug

dry.

Installing the new plug is much easier if you get one of those rubber ones at the auto parts store. They'll know what you need.

The transmission needs repair. The electronic control system causes the transmission to stay in 2nd gear when it detects a problem, such as slipping in 3rd gear or overdrive. This allows the car to be driven in an emergency.

I have actually loosened the door panel and looked up in there and I wired the functioning pieces together, which worked for several months, but then one day it didn't. I checked on it and this cheap handle, with soft plastic parts (too fragile for my kids)was too expensive to replace (which is simple to do by studying the way it goes in; price I believe was over $40) I've decided to keep wiring mine up for months at the time, and may replace it when I sell. If you have zero skills in figuring mechanical things out, just go to the dealer and pay $100 or so. Personally, I would ask the local police to see if they can open it with a SLIM JIM. Some body shops have these too. Good luck. I actually had to replace the door handle on my 2002 Escape and you literally had to take the door apart to do it...found out the easiest thing to do was go to my nearest salvage yard, where I purchased the entire "guts" of a nearly-perfect door and replaced everything inside...took about a half-hour all together. Otherwise, replacing pieces one-at-a-time will drive you crazy. AND...it costs me a grand total of $25.

Repair/replace the handle and or mechanism. Ummm, if you need to open the door you could reach down inside the door with an old wire coat hanger and catch the latch inside to open it I guess. new answer if definatly a van then you can pull the rear door trim out and push the plate that the handle pushes against if the button has gone through then you can see the plate and just pus it hope this helps

hello it can be done a little involved depends on wether its a 6cyl or 8 cyl vehicle

It is on the passenger side behind the ac freon tank. You have to work in insane tight spots. I used a stubby screw driver to remove hose clamps. remove just the clamps required to remove it. Remember witch way it was mounted....

It just takes a while because everything is tight on vans:}

in my case it was a coolant sensor next to the waterneck on the intake

first check the fuse.then check the cylinder under the hood,(which is located between the firewall and the fuel injection system) make sure ,(if there are) vacuum lines going to the cannister for cruise control, check all linkages and vacuum lines involved with fuel injection system and criuse control, for a crack or split or leaking. You may lubricate linkages. hope this helps!

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem - could be a plugged catalytic converter

Most of them will hold 5 QTS with a new filter.
Chevy did use some 6 QT and 7 qt oil pans but most of them are 4-wheel drives that used those.
Start with 5 and a new filter. Add if needed.

i would start with 10 degrees before TDC and test drive to make sure there is no ping when under load

If you strip the entire front end off, the units should be swappable. The only thing that Im not sure of is how the fenders will line up with the A-piller, and your door. I also seem to recall something about the height of the radiator mount in the subframe, I think the mount sits lower in the SC2's then the older SL1's. this may cause a problem with the hood latch if the upper radiator supports are different.

Bulb Troubleshooting (check in this order):

· Check Fuses

· Check Bulbs

· Check Light Switch(es)

· Check license plate light bulb and wiring

· Check trailer hitch wiring harness

· Check all wiring harnesses and wire

Most likely its the fuse or a burnt bulb breaking the circuit. See sources and related links below for bulb information. Sometimes the license plate and/or the trailer hitch is wired into other circuits and can cause issues in other areas. Sometimes its wires grounding out somewhere on the vehicle. See sources and related links below for bulb information. See owner's manual for location and identification of fuses.

Does your van have the serpentine belt? If so maybe I can help, I replaced the Power steering pump on my 90 G20 a couple of weeks ago.

The trick is that you need to pull the pump pulley which is pressed on to access the mounting bolts which attach the pump to the engine.

Harbor Freight tools sells a great tool designed for this job for $20.00.

Once you have the correct tools, remove the serpentine drive belt. You may also need to remove the fan shroud.

the pump shaft looks like it has an Allen socket in the center, but this is for use in the manufacturing process, and will not come out.

Place the puller tool on the pulley following the instruction that come with the tool, and remove the pulley.

loosen, but do not remove the nut on the high pressure hose connection.

use a pair of dyke pliers to cut and remove the crimp clamp on the low pressure hose.

If your pump has the remote reservour loosen the clamp on the reservour hose also.

Remove the three mounting bolts, place a large pan under the pump to catch drips, and remove the prevously loosened hoses. there will be fluid leaking all over and the pump should come free,

There are two types of replacement pump sold. With and without reservour. This reservour is a metal cover that fits over the back of the pump, and should not be confused with the reomte revervour found on some newer models which is next to the battery.

This reservour is held in place be two throught the pump bolts which are removed at the back of the pump. If your new pump has a reservour you will probably still need to remove these bolts and put them in the replacement pump as most are shiped without these bolts.

If you replacement pump comes without a reservour pull the bolts, the reservour should pull off of the old pump and slide onto the new one. check the o rings and replace the through the pump bolts.

Installation is the reverse of removal execpt that 1/2" hose clamps replace the crimp clamps on the low pressure hose, and the puller tool is set up differently to replace the pulley.

Finally if you don't flush contaminants out of the system your repair will last maybe a week. www.cardone.com has a great article about power steering flushing, read it before you start

Good luck

Article about Flushing...

http://www.cardone.com/English/club/products/steering/protech/tech_bulletins/pt75-20.asp

There is only 1 of 4 that you can get to without pulling the manifolds. Use a punch to knock one side into the block. Don't worry about bending it; that's what you want. Don't punch it too far it; you have an alloy block; not steel. The plug will turn sideway and you can pull it out with pliers. Cover the edge of the new one with RTV gasket maker and tap it in (flush with the block) with a socket the size of the inside of the plug.

yes

we have encountered multiple sizes; 25mm / 32mm / 41mm. the clevite part# for the 32 mm is 219-3173. we have ordered those through n.a.p.a. in the past. hope this helps someone. ralph, natick auto clinic, inc.

It may just be the belt. Try lubricating the belt with silicone spray, you don't want it so wet that it makes the belt slip but be generous and see if that takes care of the problem.

just a tip my 1988 Chevy g20 van i thought the blower was out but the ground wire on the motor is riveted to the housing and worked lose it would work sometimes but i took out the rivet and put a screw in real tight and it fixed it permanent

Right in the middle of the crankcase...