Chevy G20

take the vin. number to a parts store and they can tell you.

one doesn't want to even approach this job unless macanically experianced:remove neg. batt. cable.on side near starter remove both batt. cables(your car may run bad for a day or 3. due to the onboard conputer has to reremember all pertinant things)securly choc side your working on. don't trust any car jack. for you'll be under the van for a while.place a jack under the oil pan but put a 1/by2 peice of wood between the top of jack and surface of oil pan and ofcourse favor the side of the pan your working on in order that the jack will more readily jack up that side.now jack it up very slightly, probably less than a quarter inch to take the full weight of engine off that mount.now having done this remove the through bolt on that mount.if it disn't come out semi easy either raise up jack adjustment or lower it slightly to help aliviate any extra binding(and diong this job unsaftly and binding one will contend with.With the through bolt and nut removed and the jack continually maintainning the weight of the engine on that sideOh and a small skinny led flash light in your mouth, less you have anything better for proper lighting than i didyou now have to focus in on removing the probably 3 bolts that hold the motor mount on, 3 nuts and 3 bolts. it's probably a 15 milimeter sockett and a 15 milimeter Ring wrench. You will probably want 2 wratchets and 2 sockets aslo to help this ardious task.Also a three eights inch drive 'Elbow'And extentions. And probably even a helper, if you've even made it this far:Make sure you set a huge sheet of cardboard that your laying on if your working on cement, It helps!Thrase 3 nuts and bolts are also called Fasteners and ther hard to loosen off all the way, but there supposto be this way so they don't loosen in the comming years you'll be driving around.(conversly there semi hard to retighten back on when you get to that part)Wight the bolts removed jack up the engine with the jack under the oil pan more (probably an inch or slightly more) to help remove the mount slipping it off to the side type thing to remove it.Installation is mostly reverse of removal whrn you get the new motor mount placed right in there cinch down the 3 nut and bolts evenly incorperating at least a 2 wave tightening method. this will insure it's proper seating, And tork em down to specs, but don't over tork, their'll begine to strip.Now getting the the engine back down over the new mount is tricky: You may have to incorperate bars or long screwdrivers to help the engine down over the mount while lowering the weight of the engine with jack under oil pan so you can get the through bolt back in without damaging the new motor mount!what i disvovered since we have the same van if the prying doesn't go to well try placing the jack under the far side of the oil pan, jack it up only a very little and see it doesn't cause the through bolt to go in easier. you now have one real new motor mount!! i was rushed and may have forgot something so be always carefull.

1990 cargo van 4.3 motor without air pump belt diagram

on top of the right fenderwell next to the firewall

I have a '90 G20 But its the 5.7 V8 and my ECM is behind the driver's seat under the seatbelt in the wall

1=8=4=3=6=5=7=2 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 for a 5.7 liter V-8 with sequencial fuel injection.

Begin by removing the 1994 Chevy passenger side door panel. Remove the window motor wiring harness. Remove the window motor linkage. Remove the window motor retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new window motor.

4l80e

I have the same. If the engine is hot - the oil is thinner. Higher speed - higher oil pressure. Just check the level and on summer I'm using heavier oil.

Check the vacuum hose attached to the throttle actuator. It may be damaged due to heat from the exhaust manifold. The hose runs from the rear of the engine along the driver's side to the front by the battery.

Check the forums at http://www.astrosafari.com/ for solutions for this

Is the vehicle speed sensor working? If it is not, the service engine soon light should come on when driving also. The speed sensor is located behind the instrument cluster, where the speedometer cable attaches, on the older vans, and I think it might be on the transmission on newer ones.

If the van is older, the wires from the cruise control switch may be shorting out in the steering column.

Another thing to check is the brake switch. Above the brake pedal there should be two switches, one for the brake lights, and one for the cruise control. They are probably both built into the same unit, or at least are very close together.

Finally, the cruise control unit itself is a box attached to the cowling near the windshield washer motor. You can check the cable that comes out of it and goes over to the throttle.

I am unaware of a 5.7 G20, there is a 4.3liter that comes in at 165 HP @ 4,000 rpm; 235 ft lb

might be a fuse, check the fuse box in the drivers footwell

7000

If the column has no key cylinder, just like any other column. If the key is lost/missing re-building the column will replace the cylinder.

A 6.0 liter 2003 Chevrolet engine has a horsepower of 300. The engines are used on heavy-duty, full-sized trucks and vans.

front air only takes 3 lbs with rear air 4 and a half lbs

i have a 1993 ford f 150 truck , it has the same problem, i removed the steering wheel and found a bad bearing. i just need a schematic drawing to see how to replace, and to see the order in which to remove.

converse

The diagram for its path is often on the Radiator and on the package of a new one. Using a socket and long ratchet wrench on the idler pulley center nut , lever the pulley down enough to slip the belt on to the pulley after having threaded it as per the diagram.

Could be the clockspring, particularly if the airbag light comes on. First, find the actual noisemaker under the hood and make sure it makes noise. Then maybe replace the horn relay or fuse. If those are OK, you probably have a problem in the steering wheel.

I had the same problem with my '97. It took me awhile but I finally figured out that You have to loosen the inside trim panel (left inside panel) by removing the screws then pull out the panel just far enough to squeeze your hand behind it and then you can feel around for the locking mechanism rod and work it manually.Be careful not to pull the plastic trim too far out or you'll break the side that's still connected behind the hinge side.

Here's is some basic step by step instructions to replace the back door on Chevy AStro Vans 1992-2001 models. (when the door is shut and the handle broke)

1) previous answer suggest loosening the inside trim.

a) the three bottom screws on the inside trim near the floor need to be removed or loosened first.

b) the three "Star" screws holding the window to the door need to be removed

2) Carefully 'pop' and pull the inside panel from the door

a) don't worry the connectors are straight so horizontally will do

b) the top two connectors above the window don't mess with. you will probably break them and don't need to 'popped' to loosen the inside trim.

3) carefully reach inside the panel near the top above the silver brace bar.

a) lift up on the locking mechanism to unlock the door. it will stay in place once done.

b) push down on the door handle mechanism and carefully push the door open.

4) once the door is open. remove the 4 screws and the side panel to access the door handle region.

a) remove the hex washer nuts from the door handle

b) detach the silver metal bar horizontally from the handle

c) seat the new handle.

d) tighten the hex washer nuts down on the handle

e) re-attach the silver metal bar into the new handle

5) put the door back together with the inside panel

6) try the door a couple times so that it works

7) reattach the black side panel and you're done

I've done this 3 times on Astro Van door handles and this time it took 18 minutes! yeah.

Carefully.

Why would you bother?

hi there i had this problem with my 1988 van, the window would work when the door was open but not with the door closed, i found that the main power wire in the rubber water proof seal, where the door opens. the power cable had gotton old and hardened i removed this wire inside the van to the switch in the door and replaced it with another wire of the same thickness after doing that it worked fine and i have had no problems since. it is possible that if it does not work with door open or closed then the window motor itself is siezed and needs to be replaced or refurbished hope this helps you nate

You will have to look on the carb and get the numbers on it and then go to the Edelbrock website.

"G" stands for group. The G-20 is 19 industrialized and developing nations and the European Union.