Chevy Suburban

Fuel pressure should read no less then 9 LBS. and no more then 13 LBS.

And yes it should hold the pressure with key on, engine off.

I have seen some kits on eBay, but all of the brackets I saw for this required welding them in, and all seats were sold separately.

If you have the "know how" you can.........to answer your question, yes, it can be done

The insurance company has a certain amount of time (30-60 days, depending on your state) to give you an "answer", which could be "Accepted, here's your check", "Declined, deal with it or sue us", or "We need some more time to investigate." There is definitely not a concrete time that you will magically get a check in the mail.

Some important factors:

Are you filing this claim on your own insurance policy or on the person who you think is responsible for the accident? If you file it on your own insurance company it will be much quicker, in general.

If you file it on another person's liability policy, the insurance company will need to complete a liability investigation. This will generally consist of interviewing all involved parties, witnesses and ordering the police report (if applicable). The quickest this could take is perhaps 3 days (if no police report is to be ordered).

Are there injuries? If there are injuries, especially if there are multiple people with multiple (costly) injuries, there may be a limits issue and it will take much longer.

Also, if this is the other insurance company, they will need to talk with their insured to verify the details of the accident. If he doesn't answer the phone, the burden of proof will be yours to prove the accident happened and he was at fault.

Not to be smart but there is a little button on the face that says "clock".

You must remove the drive shaft. But first block the wheels so truck don't roll.

Now take a screew driver a hammer and drive the seal out, you will loose some fluid but not much. If your good you can drive the new seal in with a hammer. If not they do make a seal driver that a parts store might rent you.

If you still have a leak and your sure its coming from the seal and not the yoke on the drive shaft. Then the bushing in the trans. behind the seal needs replaced, and that can be trickey. Don't forget to polish the yoke on the drive shaft were it slides into the trans. GOOD LUCK

it has a bout 30 to 40 horse power

5w40 are when it hot like it is no use thicker oil right now I'm using 20w50 its just going to thin out I suggest that u use the right amount maybe 1 quart

Sorry, But the above answer will cost you a motor in the long run.

FACTORY says to use 5W30 Weight in the COLD months and 10W30 weight in the HOT months. If you run any heaver oil then 10W30 it will burn the valvetrain up in the engine over time. That engine has a roller valve train in it and heavy oil can not lube the roller lifters because it's to thick. You should never MIX oil brands or oil weights.

This may help. I have a '99 Suburban which most likely has the same wiper system. Mine was completely berserk for some time. Would not start when turned on, then later started and would not turn off, would not respond to speed changes - absolutely nuts. Nobody could tell me what was most likely. Consulting forums like this one, I learned of the circuit board on the wiper motor. Easy to change. 10 minutes or so. I think it's called a "wiper module". Found many sources on line from $25 up. Dealer wanted at least $75 for it. Local parts house has them for $35 or so, no waiting. May be the answer. Dealer wanted $75 just to check it out.

There are four ways to find a ratio.

1 A dealer can normally tell from the vin number.

2 There are normally tags or labels on the axle that have part number, gear ratio, and fluid requirement

info.

3 You can count how many times you have to turn the driveshaft to get one complete turn of the tires.

4 You can divide the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide by number of teeth on the pinion.

I am not sure about the back doors but the others are very easy.

First, the door weighs right at 1oo lbs, so you will need to support it (fully open) from below or above somehow.

Second, there is a top hinge pin you will need to push or pull down and out. And a bottom hinge pin you will need to push or pry up and out. I used a long metal rod (or a metal pipe with caps on the ends) and a large hammer to drive them out from above and below. You may be able to use a chisel, hammer and a small pry bar to pull the hinge pins out.

Third, after the door is loose, you will need to pull the soft rubber wire protector out of

the car body and ease out the extra wire until you reach the connectors. There are 2 wire connectors that you will need to use a screwdriver to separate. And you are done.

If you are putting a door on you will need to replace the hinge pins and bushings. They are sold as a kit in most auto parts stores (around $10).

The old bushings can be easily knocked or pried out and the now ones tapped in place. They are different from each other so pay attention to how the old ones were positioned and place the new ones in the same way.

After the wires are connected and placed back in the car body, align the door hinge holes and insert the pins. The pins are hard to get in because it is impossible to hammer on them from the middle. You could use a large clamp to force them in but it takes about 3000 pounds of force to get them in all the way. I suggest you take the vehicle (with the pins in as far as you can) to an auto body shop and have them press them in fully with a hydraulic press. The small fee is definitely worth it.

YES they are.

Because the rear heat and front hear are 2 different systems. If for example the front heater coil has broken the rear one may still be functioning.

Front heater core could be plugged up. Try flushing it out.

This is not a typical thing to occur. Most likely there could be either a turn signal bulb out or the relay is starting to die. Besides the noise, you may notice the turn signal is going on and off really fast. Otherwise, there might be a wire pinched and shorting out in the steering column. I'd take it to a ford dealer if possible.

around 2 qts

if the car won't start you need to change it.the pump is located in the fuel tank.

Disconnect negative battery cable,then remove your back seats,unscrew the 3 screws on the the triangle plate with the wires going in it,disconnect the two wires at the oem connectors,disconnect the two fuel lines,unscrew the locking ring by tapping the tabs on the edge with a hammer and screwdriver in a counter-clockwise direction,gently pull out the fuel sending unit w/ your gas gauge attached,disconnect the fuel line attached to it and fuel pump wire,take the sending unit out now after all is detached,push on tab on fuel pump and it will come out in a plastic holder,open plastic holder by tabs on the bottom,put new fuel pump in the plastic holder and attach new two wires and fuel line,now just reverse the process to install the new fuel pump.

Your timing is set by the factory, and held by the ECM....(computer).you cannot manually set the timing. the computer monitors firing orders, which plug isn't firing, and exaust gasses temperatures. youll notice that there is no Distributor,just two coils,each one with four plug wires.

The mysterious tire warning reset switch isn't on the dashboard proper at all. Instead, it's under the lower lip of the dashboard near the steering column, just about where your left knee is. If you open the driver side door and look under the dash, you should see a small black "Tire Set" switch just slightly to the right of the OBD II port. Press the switch for about three seconds and the tire warning light should go off. The low tire pressure warning light will come on after the tires have been rotated. System must be reinitialized by pushing the reset button If your tires have been rotated you must "reinitialize" the system. With motor not running turn key to "on" position then push in the reset button, keep holding it until the warning goes out and the light blinks 3 times. Without this step the light reappears constantly.

if your stereo is no longer illuminated, sorry for your luck. these bulbs are inside the radio unit, and are soldered in place, if you are familiar with how to solder, you might be able to disassemble the radio, and replace them, but its probably less frustrating and time consuming to replace the stereo, with a new or aftermarket unit.

SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED TO PAY FOR SOME MORE OIL..CALL YOUR FRIENDLY NEIGHBORHOOD DEALER.

to remove the stereo from a 1996 GMC Suburban, the dash "housing" that goes from the left side of the headlight switch all the way to the right side of the middle vent & pull out cup holder is just clipped in and pops right off. You might have to turn your ignition key and put the gear shift all the way down to 1st gear and lower your steering wheel (if you have tilt steering.) Once this front part of your dash is off, look on either side of the stereo and you'll see a tab (one on each side) that you can press down. Squeeze down on these tabs at the same time and you will probably feel & hear them click and then you'll be able to slide the stereo right out. Good luck. If i was able to help you, plz let me know. weasle_74@yahoo.com

If there is more than one cylinder then yes

You must first remove the transmission and fly-wheel. Then you will see the 1 piece

seal on the crank shaft. Pry it out, it will pop out. Then install new seal in it's place.

A seal driver is the best tool to use. Be sure you clean the area good, and put some oil on the crankshaft before sliding the seal over the crank.

Easy, they weren't available as a factory order option. They don't heat up no matter what you do. They were available on the LT model from the factory.

Dealership