Chevy Venture

you have a leak on the sending unit (o-ring usually after a pump replacement) or a hose to the canister EVAP system

If spark plugs didn't help also check or replace the TPS. "Throttle position sensor"

It can not be cleaned. Trying to clean it will mess it up.

I'm reading that this is a cracked cylinder, not the head, so I'd pretty much call the engine CRAP. The engine is not built to have the block welded or repaired in this way. If it's a bad cylinder (piston assembly) then that may be repaired, but as with most things, cost will depend on a lot of factors (area of the country and labor prices, replacement part prices, etc), and it may also require that the entire engine be overhauled. It may be less expensive, and possibly better in the long run, to have a new engine (shops rebuild them for resale, with a like-new warranty)installed. A junkyard engine may have similar problems, and you'll have spent a bunch of money for junk. whatever a new or remanufactured head costs. cracked heads must not be replaced, your welcome, mo the ford tech

couple of things to try,,oil the track and run door back and forth to penetrate the oil.if this doesnt work,its probably the motor and this is expensive to fix.around 500-700 dollars.it could be the switch but not likely.

Have someone pump the brake pedal sever times then keep the pedal down. Crack open the bleeder on the master cylinder just a bit. Fluid will come out (or air.) When the pedal has reached the floor close the valve. Pump pedal and repeat till no air comes out for two or three tries. Do the same at each wheel cylinder.

No , the 3.4 litre V6 engine in a 2000 Chevrolet Venture has a timing CHAIN

2 bolts at the top, just unscrew them. un clip the defroster cables and unscrew the arms. be very careful putting the new one on. you wil need a couple of people to hold it for you it took 2 people to hold and me to screw the new one into place.

Dynamic Traction Control is sometimes referred to Dynamic Stabilization Control. In essense the system takes into account traction, braking the

driver handling into consideration in order to apply the appropriate traction to

the tires.

This control improves traction. Standard Traction Control automatical adjusts to what ever tire is slipping at the time and compensates with the other. There has been instances where this correction has enhanced the skid causing an accident.

DTC is a superior form of control as it takes many factors into account before apply the equalization of traction control system.

I've got a better question, why is this question in the Chevy venture forum ?

remove the door panel, window regulator, and window track. lock solenoid should now be accessable

You will have to replace the latch, the solenoid is part of the door latch.

Cold air is denser than warm air, which causes it to sink. As the temperature decreases, air molecules move closer together, increasing their density. This denser cold air displaces the warmer, lighter air, leading to the phenomenon where cold air tends to settle down in lower areas. This principle is fundamental in meteorology and affects weather patterns and air circulation.

There is a horizontal bar under the front part of the seat. You pull it up and push back with your feet.

look on the passangers side , there should be a black rubber hose that is pre-molded that points down. I had the same problem with my 93 t-bird. the rubber hose had been knocked off and when driving the wind would blow the water back into the drain pipe and on to the floor

not sure if this will help you because i have an 03 6.0L (in a 2500HD crew cab long bed 4WD--probably much heavier than your truck) but when the low fuel lite comes on on my truck the computer says i have a range of roughly 30 miles left. just as an aside, on the rare occasion when i do run it until the lite comes on it takes about 31 gals to top off the 34 gallon tank. i average a mere 10 mpg so with 3 gals left that'd be just about right.

Bulbs?

Sockets?

Steering column switch?

first pull off the cylinder heads, then disconnect the connecting rod caps and push the pistons out of the top of the engine. make sure you keep everything organized: each piston ring turned the right way so the ring gaps line up like they're suppose to, everything in order, and the right connecting rod caps with the right rods because this is crucial to putting the engine back together the right way so the engine doesn't prematurely wear out pls do not forget to mark the order of the push rods. It is eaiser to take two boxes if its a v8, and cut 4 small slits in each box. put an arrow on it indicating the front of the motor and as you pull the rods out then slidwe them into the box. if you forget the order of the rods there is a better chance that the motor will not work just right. Also you have to drop the oil pan in order to get to the bolts that hold the pistons in. its really not that hard of a job just really time consuming. To change the rings just pull them off. when you are trying to put the new ones on,they can slide right into place, if not it helps to have a tool that helps put the on. good luck.

By first having a professional repair the problem that caused the light to come on. Do not attempt to repair yourself. Serious injury can occur when dealing with the SRS.

Okay, I some what agree with the answer above, but if you are a backyard mechanic with electrical and electronic know how, "attempt it at your own risk!" No one put a gun to Your head and told you to do it. At least let me give you the guide lines. I will tell you first and again "attempt at your own risk!". Make sure you have the owners manual and the automotive repair manual. Check battery cables. Replace if needed. Check for bad grounds. Make sure there are at least two grounding straps from the motor to the body that are in good condition and check all wires that are grounded to the engine block and body. If you must, crimp new loops onto good wire. If you must extend a wire that had to be cut back use the same gauge wire, soldier all connections and seal tight with electrical tape. Have the charging system checked. A bad alternator can make a car go electrically crazy. Disconnect battery for 1 min and reconnect. Light go out? If yes! Get the heck out of here and take a Sunday drive! If not. Go to step 1.

1. Disconnect battery negative terminal. Make sure it will not make contact with the negative of the battery. Wrap with duct tape. (To be safe.)

2. Let car sit for 5 min.

3. Remove SRS (Airbag) Fuse/s. Refer to owners manual or repair manual.

4. Remove SRS relay/s. (If applicable) Even if you are looking for an electrical problem that has nothing to do with the airbags. Remove airbag fuses and relays! You can still set them off by accident while trouble shooting other components.

5.If it is really dry and you have static build up. Make a grounding strap. Use a thick rubber band, some speaker wire and a metal clip. Strip speaker wire on both ends. Wrap one end around the rubber band to make a ball that will contact your skin at all times when you put on the rubber band. Use lotion on the skin where the wire touches. Wrap other end around the metal clip. Use the clip to ground yourself to the car, to any bare metal under the dash. Static electricity has been known to set these off, at least that is what I was told. Ive never had one go off and I work with car electrical all the time.

6. Under the dash will be connectors that go to the airbags. Some are located under the front seats for 4 passenger SRS systems. They have a plastic pin that must be pulled out before you can disconnect them.

7. Locate the diagnostic/airbag sensor. Usually under passenger seat or in dash. Disconnect it.

8. Pull airbags. Refer to the repair manual for dash and steering wheel removal. Remove steering wheel. Make sure the wheel is straight before removing airbag coil spring. Use tape to stop it from rotating when you remove it. ( See manual. ) When removing do not put yourself in front of the airbag. Some have a battery deployment backup that can still go off.

9. Locate accelerometer sensors and disconnect them. You guessed it! Repair manual! "Note: Some repair manuals have limited schematics and information. Find one that does or buy the airbag repair manual for your make of vehicle. $20 manual is better than a big headache or dislocated body part." Common locations are, inside front grill, rear bumper, under dash. Some are built into the passenger airbags and there is even one in the diagnostic/airbag sensor.

10. Get some speaker wire that is thin. Use soldier to tin the ends to a nice straight pin. you will also need a volt meter that reads ohms and beeps when you have a direct short. Generally the color coded wire will stay the same from the diagnostic/airbag sensor socket to the other sensor and airbag sockets. Look for socket corrosion and bad grounds and repair as needed. The worst thing you could use is a test probe! You will leave a little hole that will allow moisture to rot the wire. Use the volt meter and set it to ohms and run your speaker wire to the socket in the grill of the car and test the wire from the sensor socket to the diagnostic socket. If you are not reading a direct short then follow the wire to the outer firewall. As you follow the wires, look for pin holes, junctions and fusible links that may have corrosion. Now plug in the connector for the airbag coil spring and test from the steering wheel socket to the diagnostic socket. Unplug when done. Does everything look good so far? There will be some wires at the diagnostic socket that go to the ECU ( The cars computer ) That should be tested at the ECU socket. Do not test with the ECU connected. Some may go to the ABS ECU. If you have corrosion in these sockets, the units may be unrepairable. You may have to buy a new ECU or ABS module. These wires are so the two or three can share information like speed, breaking, and airbag status. THAT'S WHATS KEEPING THE LIGHT ON! ( Note: Some SRS systems require that the ABS system be in full working condition before diagnostic/airbag sensor reset. )

11. If everything looks good or has been repaired from here then the next step you will need the help of a Pro. Take the diagnostic/airbag sensor to the dealership, auto mechanic that has the code retrieval reset tool or send it to one of those on line code retrieval and reset company. Sometimes the dealership is the wrong way to go. They may tell you it is no good and they could not get the codes off of it and offer to order you a new one or try to talk you into bringing the car in for service. The on line company will charge less and give you instructions on the ECM reset procedure. When you get the unit back they will give you the trouble codes and what they mean. Make sure you find a company that does that for you! If it was a failed sensor and you had to replace a socket or bad wire then it should be fine. If the wiring tested okay then the sensor or airbag is most likely bad. Replace as needed.

12. Connect and mount everything back into place following reverse order except the fuses, relays and diagnostic/airbag sensor.

13. Most auto parts stores have ECU readers that you can use in the parking lot. You will need to follow the instructions the on line company gives you to clear the code from the ECU. Disconnect the battery wait 5 min and plug in relays and fuses. Make sure you completely mount the diagnostic/airbag sensor. Don't try doing this with the unit flopping around. Then pug it in and reconnect the battery. Make sure that no one is in the car! If something went wrong in your repairs the airbags could go off the second you attache the battery! If this does happen, don't feel to bad. It happens to the Pro's too.

14. No big POOF!? Good. You made it this far. Just one more hurdle. Lean across from the passenger side to turn the ignition on. If it goes off now, your better off in the middle. Once the ignition is on and you see your gauges light up, look at the SRS light It should blink for a moment then turn off. If not, repeat the reset instruction.

15. If the light blinks and goes out! Your in business! If not. Take it to the dealer or auto mechanic and have them pull the codes on it again while its in the car and attempt another reset. Maybe a sensor got missed, but if they do have to do anything else it should be minor, you have done most of the work.

REMEMBER. YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Airbag systems are a lot more stable than they used to be, But you can still get hurt, burn up and possibly die. No worse than traveling by plane.

Try Retightening intake manifold bolts first...............

Page 345, 2003 T&C Owner's Maual says "The... Removable Floor Console, when in the front position is fused with self resetting fuses that are only serviceable by an authorized dealer."

just pull the switch board out then there is a cable in the board just pull it out to diss connect it

The vans with the 3.4L engine have a couple of bleed screws for the cooling system (see attached link for locations).

When the engine is cool, fill the cooling system at the radiator cap, with the bleed screws open slightly. When coolant starts to come out, close the screws quickly, to keep a minimum of air getting back into the system.

Once full, also fill the overflow tank to at least half full, then start the engine and allow it to come up to normal temperature. Then allow it to cool off again. Do this a few times over the next couple of days, and keep an eye on the overflow tank, always keeping it about half full. The action of the the overflow tank being emptied and refilled, as the coolant expands and contracts (with temperature changes) will also help to bleed ALL of the air out of the system.

Once the cooling system is full and has gone through a few cycles, then it should stay full and no more air should get into the system. If you find more air getting in, then you have other issues to look into.

Good Luck, Greg

I just replaced mine on a 97 cav z24 on 01/24/09. In the passenger side, remove the bottom panel that is under the glove box. On the blower motor (its circular and black you can't miss it) look for a white plug that connects to it (should be about 1/4 of an inch away from the firewall). The white plug is held to the blower by 2 5.5mm screws. Remove those 2 screws (there is one screw on each side of the plug and opposite of eachother), separate the wiring from it, connect it to the new part and replace it back in. It is a simple procedure thankfully. **You must have some sleek and small tools for the removal of the 5.5mm screws. There is extrely limited room and can't be done with a convential socket wrench or screw driver.** Let me know if you need more help with it.

the blower motor resistor is at fault.each level of fan controler needs more voltage replacement should be very cost freindly. The above answer is correct. It is more than likely the Resistor Pack. They are not that expensive, especially if you can find one at a salvage yard. The hard part is finding it. Try www.autozone.com and look in the component location section. You may find the location there. I would suspect that if you have it replaced at a dealership, it may run as high as $200. Most of this will be labor. Try removing the glove box and look around behind it. Good hunting. the location of this part is like all resistors for heating mounts to heater duct box. this being passenger side close to fire wallunder dash with two screws holding inplace close to blower motor