Dodge Durango

Trouble code P0753 means: Shift Solenoid A Electrical

it depends on where it is busted at.

For the XP iridiums. Its .50 to .51

Research indicates 5 Qts with a Wix Filter 24938

I do believe that 2000 is one of those goofy years where some Dodge vehicles had different transmission fluid than others. I do know that you should use ATF+4 to be on the safe side. 2000 may be able to use ATF+3, however ATF+4 is backwards compatible with all Dodge transmissions.

In other words you can use ATF+4 in a ATF+2 or ATF+3 transmission, or ATF+3 in a transmission that calls for the use of ATF+2.

Never use a "lower" +# in a transmission that calls for a higher +#. Eg. never use +2 in a +3, +3 in a +4, or+2 or +3 in a +4.

The lubrication/friction properties are different. Using a "lower grade" in a transmission that calls for a "higher grade" can and most likely will cause a shudder or vibration which you will feel primarily when the torque converter is going into "lock-up" at highway speeds.

If all else fails, your dipstick will tell you to "use only Mopar #_ _ _ _" You can call your dealer with that part # and they can tell you which Fluid you need to be exact. The reasoning behind that is there is a significant cost difference between the ATF+'s. Mopar fluid is very high, you are much better off going to your local Napa, or whatever and getting the correct grade there.

Remove the door panel screws (outer edges). Remove the door pull screws. Roll down window. Apply slight pressure to bottom of door panel by squating and placing knees under the door panel and raising up on toes to apply the pressure up and out. This will release the tabs holding bottom portion of door panel on. **There is also a tab by the door pull take care not to break**. Once bottom of door panel is released push in at top of door panel work top of door panel up at window opening until removed. May also need to remove or peel back sound barrier (the black adhesive is extremly sticky, worse when hot) Once door panel is removed, remove the screws holding the speaker/mounting spacer in. Detach the tabbed connector from the speaker. If using an after market speaker mounting spacer may need to be modified to accept speaker. Connector may be removed from old speaker and soldered onto the new speaker to retain factory connection. Install new speaker and replace door panel.

On a 1991 Nissan Pathfinder, the factory amp should be located behind the right-rear speaker. It may also be located in the quarter panel area, behind the plastic cargo detachment.

That's your gearshifter sweetheart.. You may have to replace it. Could also be your transmission.

I recommend you change them at 100,000 miles unless the engine starts to run rough, miss, or get poor fuel economy before that.

Park vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Pour in enough oil of the correct weight to reach the full mark on the dipstick. Start the engine and let run for 1 minute. Shut down and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add as necessary to reach the full mark. You now know the capacity.

is included with timing belt service

For the most part and under normal highway driving, driving in 4x4 is just like driving in 2 wheel drive.

When things get slippery or the surface more uneven you get added traction and grip on the road.

Keep in mind that although traction is improved in four wheel drive, braking does not improve.

THREE

No, they do not interchange.

CAUTION: Some models are equipped with anti-theft-radio make sure you have the activation code before disconnecting battery * If the car is equipped with A/C has the system discharged first * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Set the heater control to hot and then drain the cooling system * Working from the engine compartment side of the firewall mark the heater hoses to ensure correct installation loosen the hose clamps and then disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.Plug the hoses to prevent dirt from entering the cooling system.You'll see a vacuum line connected to a vacuum pipe at the firewall right below the larger of the two heater hoses.Disconnect this line and plug it * If the vehicle is equipped with A/C disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator connection tubes.Plug these lines to prevent dirt to entering A/C system * Remove the air conditioning and heater control assembly and the radio.Remove the instrument panel assembly * Disconnect the vacuum line from the door motor in front of the blower assembly. Note the routing of this line between the door motor and the heater unit. * If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning remove the evaporator assembly * If the vehicle is equipped with cruise control,electronic time and alarm control (ETAC) and/or keyless entry system unplug the electrical connectors from the cruise control module,the ETAC module and/or the keyless entry module * Remove the bolts that attach the cruise control and the ETAC/keyless entry module brackets to the left vertical member of the center fasica panel support bracket * Remove the screws that attach the air conditioning and heater control assembly bracket to the left vertical member of the center fasica panel support bracket * Remove the bolts that attach the right vertical member of the center fascia panel support bracket to the vehicle and then remove the right vertical member and the three horizontal support brackets as a single assembly * Peel back the carpeting on the right side and then remove the bolts that attach the crossbar support bar to the vehicle and then remove the support bar * Peel back the carpeting on the left side.Detach the rear floor vent ducts from the rear floor vents and from the heater assembly and then pull each duct to the rear and remove it. * Remove the mounting nut and bolt from the right side of the heater unit and remove the mounting nut from the upper left side * Remove the heater assembly from the vehicle * Disconnect the vacuum hose from the metal vacuum line on the left side of the heater case * Disengage the heater core cover retaining clips from the heater case and then remove the heater core cover * Pull the heater core out of the case

take 15 mm wrench and pull the belt tensioner toward the left it will loose the belt.TO install start to put the belt on from the crank and make ou way up.

The firing order should be 1-2-3-4-5-6.

The 2003 Chevrolet Suburban fuel filter is located inside of the gas tank. You will to remove the gas tank in order to change the fuel filter.

I just finished changing mine!!! (it's a 2000 model, but the same as a '99) I had a squirrel that chewed through the wire's on the plug behind the headlight, so I had to replace that part of the harness. (The driver side light) I found this page trying to solve my problem but found no answers either. BUT I FIGURED IT OUT!!!

'nuf chit chat...lets get to business!

1)With the hood open, you will see a rubber strip along the inside of the headlight. That will simply come off carfully with your hands. There are four plastic "buttons" and one "tab" that it will slip off of. (removing the battery may be helpful for the driver side but I don't think is is absolutely necessary)

2)There are 3 bolts BEHIND the light bucket and framework and a plastic connector. I believe the size for the bolts is a 10mm socket. (You need a long extension for all) Two of them are on the inside-(closest to the radiator) & are visible if you get in there and look. The extension will fit in-between the light and the bumper to get the bottom one off.(DO NOT remove or loosen the tiny star nuts-barely visible between the lights themselves, those are only for the beam adjustment) The 3rd is on the bottom outside. This one is a little tricky, you must use a 1/4 inch ratchet with an extension and the smallest socket you can find to fit the bolt because there is a piece of metal in front of the bolt-head. This may require a little patience to get the socket down and over the bolt, but be careful not to brake the light.

3)Here is the last pain in the butt, it's a little plastic plug that I think is supposed to be a snap in/out type of connector-kind of like a ball and socket. You can see the pointed tip on the inside of the engine compartment. You should carefully pull out straight forward. Somehow I managed to get out the whole peice by squeezing and twisting the plastic piece and wiggling the light. Be careful not to break the connector, if you do the bolts will still hold the light, but you may get a little vibration/wobbly light when driving.

You should have the light assembly completely out now. (So of course on my job, I just reconnected my wire/plug and stuck it back together) To change out the assembly should be easy to see and figure out. You will have to be careful when unplugging the old plugs (little tabs that need to be manipulated) so they don't get damaged before you reconnect to your new headlight.

[edited to add] There is a very small torx screw in between the headlight and directional housing that holds the two units together that you nee to unscrew before they slip apart. I also found it easier to get at the bottom bolt of the headlight assembly from unde the fender using a ratcheting box wrench.

Pass side front to back 2-4-6-8

Driver side front to back 1-3-5-7

in the dipstick hole.

The 2000 Service Manual defines that code as: "EGR Position Sensor Rationality". Their description is: "EGR position sensor signal does not correlate to EGR duty cycle."

Is it safe to drive? You'll have to decide.

CVU is a brand. It's the company that manufactures and sells a particular kind of fuel injector. There are CVU, Python, Motorcraft, Delphi, etc. The list goes on. P.S. Ever try GOOGLE?

no, unless you raise the suspension with a lift kit.

The best answer I found for my 2002 Astro was to keep the trailer harness inside the van until needed, then simply open the door, bring out the harness, and close the doors with the harness on the floor of the van, coming out between and under the dutch doors. The rubber gaskets around the doors allow the doors to close on the harness without putting a kink in it, even. This protects the harness from weather when not in use.