Dodge Ram

It is not a single digit. It is the combination of numbers that the dealers system can use to match up to a build list.

1,000.00

1994

single din

There are no accessible head light fuses on a 2004 Ram. The headlights are controlled by the computer, called a fcm or tipm, attached to the under hood fuse box with internal circuitry.

It is not required. You can use conventional or synthetic oil.

The Heater core is difficult to replace on the RAM since it is buried in the plenum box. The box has a convenient door panel that you can open to remove and replace the core. The catch is that the convenient door is on the back of the box and you have to remove the heater box to get to it. This involves removing the steering wheel, steering column, complete dash panel, evacuating the AC, draining the radiator, and finally removing the heater box. Once you have the box out(8-12hrs), the core is simple to replace.

You want to be sure that the core is the problem before you undertake this process. If there is a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab or a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor, the diagnosis is easy.

Check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. On a cold engine you can remove the radiator cap and check the level. It should be full. If there is air in the system it will affect cab heating and engine cooling.

Another good check is to feel the two heater hoses going into the firewall from a cold start. The hoses should warm up at about the same rate and get uncomfortably hot-close to radiator temperature.

If the core appears to be OK, the next concern is with the blend doors that divert air through the heater core. This is a common failure on the RAM. Check heatertreater.net for an explanation of the operation of the system and a fix for the common problems. The RAM has four different DC servo motor controlled air flow doors that are susceptible to failure and all of these need to be checked by either observing the symptoms of failure or reading the codes. The problems are easy to fix with the HeaterTreater kits, but the OEM dealer fix requires removing the plenum box as described above. It is a costly repair if you take it back to the dealer and are not under warranty.

750 revolutions : 1 minute

I'd suspect:

(1) clogged or dirty fuel injectors

(2) clogged fuel filter

(3) fuel pump beginning to fail

1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 The distributor rotor turns clockwise

Red means STOP. What does this little red light say or look like. Low oil pressure light is RED.

The ECM is located on the drivers side of the engine block. It is mounted behind the fuel filter housing. It is bolted to the engine block behind the fuel filter. Remove the fuel filter mounting bolts and it will fall out of the way giving access to the ecm. The ecm wiring connector is bolted to the ecm with one bolt, going through the middle of the connector. It is a 4 mm allen bolt.

Start in the upper / center postition and continue clockwise. 1. Over / Right - Generator pulley 2. Outside / Right edge of power steering pump pulley 3. Under the Crankshaft pulley 4. Over the Idler pulley 5. Under / Left Tensioner (pulley) 6. Over / Left A/C Compressor pulley 7. Under Water Pump pulley

After much time searching I found out that not all 1990's has a crank sensor. Dodge used up some 1989 engines in the 1990 production, thus some do NOT have crank sensors.

I NEED HELP DIAGOSING THIS ONE! It runs great, then it will loose power, and smell like flooding, and stall out. The fuel pressure remains constant at 14 lbs PSI. Spark remains. After a few minutes it will start up and rev up to clear out and all is well till next ime.

On the 90 Lebaron I looked for a fuse box like Ford's have. Found out all of the fuses and relays are mounted on the sidewall under the hood. They are black squares, that are not necessarily interchangeable. I don't remember if is Ford that you can't interchange, but all the others use the same relay fuses. Mary

Should be in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

On top of the transmission bellhousing near where it bolts to the engine.

is your truck 4 wheel drive, if so have your universal joints checked, also have your front end parts checked(tie-rods etc.) if it is not have the balance checked on the front tires, in both cases, sometimes when you get in mud, mud will build up inside of rims and cause balance to be out. if all these are ruled out, have the tires checked for a broken belt

For removing the fuel pump bolts on a 318, 360, 400, you would use a 1/2" socket. I used this to remove and install bolts on a 1977 Dodge Warlock with the 400 in it. Hope that helps.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Huh? The answer is 10 degrees BTDC, or whatever is printed on the label underneath the hood. The timing mark is in the MIDDLE of the crank pulley (on the ridge between the alternator and accessory belts). You will not be able to see it, but you can feel it with your fingernail, it is just a little nick. Paint it with a tiny dot (big mark will decrease accuracy). Then you have to jump the diagnostic connector in the passenger side kick area before starting the car, verify the computer light comes on so that it is using no advance, and probably have someone put their foot on the gas to keep it from dying while you set the timing.

I just read that the original LA design motors are basically the same as the 90's era magnum motors. there was a change with the Hemi motors. I have a 96 ram with a 5.9 L 360 and am currently working on getting as much info as I can, to putt an 80's era 360 from a motor home into my truck, it has a brand new motor. mine has 200 plus thousand miles and a front main seal leak. good luck with your truck.

This is a very difficult question to answer considering the broad scope of the question and the unknown ability of the person changing the brakes. Shop manuals have very many pages of instructions aimed at persons with at least some mechanical knowledge. I would suggest this job be left to a trained professional as the brakes are the most important safety devices on the vehicle. If you screw up a brake job someone could die!

you have to tap into your intake manifold and install the pressure line there. you can only put it on the intake manifold. then run your line through the firewall. make sure there is no way that it can become cut or kinked. then mount your gauge and hook up the line and the power can come from any 12 volt source.

it is located on the right (passenger side) valve cover on your engine

sure there is plenty of room for it but you will have to weld in new motor mounts or use engine plates to mount it.