Dodge Ram

Supplemental/Safety Restraint Sytstem. ie: airbag, seatbelt...

No, different dimensions.

If a cd player does not eject check and see if a object has been stuck in it. If not the player probably is broken and needs a specialist to look at it.

Remove the radiator cap with the system cool. Turn the heat on high, and start the engine. The engine will push out air and bubbles will come from the radiator. The process may have to be repeated several times.

I have a dodge durango with a hemi and my egr valve is right below the alternator. It looks like a big bottle of pills with the wire connection on the top. Hope this helps

11mpg loaded. 11.25mpg unloaded. 11.5mpg going downhill. 10.75mpg going uphill. 10.5mpg going uphill loaded.

Subtract 1mpg if it's raining. Add 1mpg if you drive less than 65.

The air inlet temperature sensor is found inside the intake of a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. More specifically it is located near the air box where the filter is.

Brake fade is caused by the brake pads overheating. If this happens all the time and not just during hard braking, then the pads are glazed over. You can lightly sand them to remove the glazing, or just replace the pads. Now if you are referring to brake pedal being soft, then you have air in the system. Bleed your brakes. Check your e-brake too......Many people leave it on and not realize it. Brake fade will manifest very quickly.

two locations. Most everything is on the drivers side panel, just above your left knee. When the drivers door is opened, you'll see a plactic cover that opens. Behind there. There are three high amo fuses in the battery box area. See pg 73 of 3.2 book

may need a tune up or spark plug wires are crossed. That is assuming that no work has been done to Malibu recently.

A quick verification that wires are on in the correct order would be to do the following: The Malibu should have a labeled coil back on the rear of the engine. Each of those numbers represents a cylinder. For the 4 cylinder model the cylinders are 1,2,3,4 - starting from the passenger side of the vehicle. Simply make sure the coil pack label and the cylinder numbers match with the plug wire running between them. For the 6 cylinder model the cylinders are labeled like this: 1,3,5 on the back of engine (starting from the passenger side) and 2,4,6 across the front of the engine (starting again from the passenger side) If all checks out well, it could be on of several other issues. The most basic being that the car needs a set of plugs and wires. If you haven't had the plugs and wires changed on the vehicle in a while (say 30k -60k depending on driving habits, etc.) , it'd probably be a good idea to change them to keep the car running optimally. Beyond that, the list grows to conditions such as: - A faulty coil pack - Injector issues (either electrical issues or a clogged injector)

Reset the oil life reminder.

Drain the oil.

Replace the filter.

Put grease into any grease fittings on the front end.

Add new oil.

Run the engine for 15 seconds.

Set tire pressure.

Check and correct the oil level.

Check all fluids (including transfer case and differentials) and condition of belts, air filter, and front end parts.

Lubricate door hinges with Lithium grease.

Test the battery if a tester is available.

Lubricate lock cylinders with graphite lock cylinder lubricant.

Check for oil leaks.

Distributor speed sensor malfunction.

Distributor speed sensor malfunction.

The engine computer is also the regulator.

46RE

There are fuses under the hood and on the driver side end of the dash. Not sure what "the breaker" is.

try a chiltons repair manual from the library.

There is a box under the center front seat that needs to be replaced, it was about $120 at Dodge dealer. You may have to remove entire front seat to do this, I did. I forget exactly what it was called....seat belt control module or something close to that.

It has the intake heater.

Remove the lower rad hose and drain, the block itself has no supplied drain. You can also use the drain petcock on the radiator lower drivers side but it is prone to leaking after use.

the pcm doesn't need to neccesarily see a ceertain amount of miles some times it needs to have gas put in see some stop and go some highway.almost every situation is different.usually no more than an average week of driving.

i think someone has vac. lines wrong The problem is the engine loses vacuum when you accelerate. Vacuum is what operates the doors that control air flow through your ducts. I had the same problem with my 1998 Ram when it was new. They ended up putting what amounted to a one way valve in the vacuum line. I have owned four of this body series Ram trucks and they all have done the same thing brand new. Its not a big deal, but the previous answer is the best and easiest remedy that can be done. Be careful if taking it somewhere to have it installed for you, it takes a mechanic who doesn't know what they are doing only a half an hour.

i would recommend no less than 87 octane but it all depends on compression ratio ie. upto 9.5:1 ratio u can get away with as low as 87 but recommended is 91 or higher. i run 11:1 compression with an msd 6AL and 235 pro lightning race heads on a street driven 550+ hp 400 sbc and i use autolite 24,25 or 26 plugs depending on time of year {colder in the summer & hotter for the winter) and i set gap for all at .047" . i use 91 or higher octane fuel only and timing is set at 38 degrees total timing under load. or around 12-13 static timing at idle no vacuum at dist.

It's your heater core, and it's leaking. You need to fix it. It's located under the dash area by the passenger side. You have to replace the heater core, if you mechanical inclined, you can do it yourself. Get some tips from your parts guy at the auto parts store. Keo If the leak appears to be clean water after a rain, it may just be that the gasket at the bottom edge of the windshield (just above the vent intake plenum), has either fallen off or was taken off and not reinstalled properly - allowing rain-water to run down into the blower housing and drip out onto the carpeting. To rectify, simply remove the three screws securing the plastic cover where the passenger-side windshield-wiper rests, pull the cover off and re-secure the ~18" long rubber gasket to the metal frame-edge above the blower intake. I added a bead of silicon calk to help hold the gasket - because the rubber grippers in the gasket had lost their bite and wouldn't hold. A clean-water passenger side leak can also be caused from a clogged condensation drain on the AC. This has happened to my 98 Intrigue, and was fixed by the car dealer Answer I had this same problem. It turned out to be a plugged weep hole from the air conditioning condenser drain line is plugged. Turns out lots of gunk can get in there. The condenser is behind the glove compartment and drains water through the firewall close to the center of the car low down in the engine compartment. I believe you will be looking for a 90 degree rubber elbow. I had a mechanic suction it out with an air hose (he drained about 1/2 gallon of clean water out). He only charged me $10 since it took about 5 minutes and I knew the solution from reading a post on another forum. He suggested not using a hanger or anything with a sharp edge to clean out the weephole since it could damage the rubber around the area and make it worse later. I would probably try this on my own in the future since I expect it to plug again. It's a bit diffilcut to find unless you have the car up on a lift, but not impossible. More info: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_would_cause_standing_water_on_the_passenger_side_of_a_1998_Oldsmobile_Intrigue

Back side of the motor ( firewall side).

The most obvious answer is to buy new door poppers.