Electric Windows

Same on my 97. You'll need about 2-hours, a Phillip's a flat, and an 6 or 8mm (I think) socket/ratchet.

• Pull the driver's door panel.
• • Start with the little panel behind the inside door handle--pry out gently from the top, slide it to the right, and pull it out.
  • Remove the screw at the bottom of the door handle--it's probably full of dirt and crud and whatever else has accumulated in there over the years.
  • Now comes the fun part--pry off the door panel. Most of it can be pulled by hand, but you've got to pull!
• Next carefully remove the wire connectors--push in the tab, pull apart the connector.
• Now use a meter to ensure the window switch works. Check for power at the connector.

If the switch works and you've got power - you probably got a bad window motor.

I think it was 3 or 4 small bolts and a wire connector (don't forget the tab!). Came out easy.

A new/rebuilt motor is about $75--or if you're a tightwad like me and need the jaws of life to open my wallet, pull the motor out of one of the back doors and drive on.

See "Related Questions" and "Related Links" for more information

Remove the door panel. Which involves removing all the screws on pull items plus pushed in retainer items to get to the window motor.

NOTE: Check the motor supply voltages with a voltmeter to be sure they are there when you try to operate the window up or down.

The plus and minus is reversed to make it go up and down.

The switches are prone to fail or loose connection before the motor goes bad.

There is a heat fuse circuit breaker inside the motor that fails most often. You can take it apart and repair it rather than install a new motor. Or jumper across it and install a fuse holder in the supply line inside the car for easy replacement later. get a new window switch

There are other fuses in line with the window motors supply. Locate and check those fuses.

if the other windows work it could be a broken wire where the wires go from the door to the dash

You need to drill out the rivets and have a rivet tool to install a new window not to hard to do if you got the proper tools

First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. There's a quick disconnect inside the door. Disconnect the motor there and attach either an automotive test light or a voltmeter and try to raise/lower the window. You should see 12 VDC with a meter or the test light should come on. If it does, try the motor.

To remove the motor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces of duct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from falling once you remove the window regulator.

There are three or four rivets that hold the window regulator assembly to the door. These will have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly. You have to slide the regulator arm out of the bottom track of the window itself, and then it's a matter of maneuvering the assembly out of the door.

Once it's out, there are three bolts that hold the motor to the assembly. Remove the motor and replace it. I have aftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores which have lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. They are much cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty as well. Do your homework on price.

To reinstall, reassemble the motor/regulator and worm it back into the door. Since you drilled out the rivets, you can use 1/4-20 bolts, washers and nuts to hold the assembly on. Put the bolts in from INSIDE the door, so that the bolt head is facing inside, and the bolt body is sticking out. Use at least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts on it, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel. If you don't, your door panel won't fit.

This is exactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. Twice. Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and once because the aftermarket part broke.

Hope it helps...

ANSWER #2

I didn't remove the regulator just the motor. Remove the door panel and the bracket (2 screws) allowing you to reach the motor by placing your arm into the door.

The motor has three bolts holding it to the regulator. One is visible but a socket wont fit on it. Cut out a small V shaped piece of the door with metal cutters (tin snips) to gain access to the bolt. Then hold the new motor up to the door (using the visible bolt as a guide) and mark where the other 2 bolts are (my truck had dimples in the metal already). Drill a 1/2 inch hole on these marks. You now have access to the bolts.

I broke loose the bolts then used a cordless drill with the socket to remove the bolts while holding up the motor. To install the new motor rotate it into the regulator so the gears mesh then while holding it start each of the bolts. Then tighten with the cordless. It works the same using a rachet just takes a little longer.

The job took about an hour and a half and wasn't the hard..

The key is that the windows are power operated. ALL power window systems consist of three basic parts.

First naturally is a motor to supply the motive power. Second is a window in a track system which guides it. And the third part is some kind of linkage between the motor and the window.

I suspect that the problem you describe is related to some kind of disconnection of that linkage. Different makes and models use different types of linkage, but usually, Ford products use a rigid metal arm working off of a "gearbox" at the motor.

Regardless, the fix is to remove the inner trim panel on the door to allow observation and trouble shooting of the mechanical linkage. This may be hindered by the fact that most doors have a rigid metal inner panel which only has a few holes, through which you will be forced to work.

To better observe the window lift mechanism it is usually best to remove the motor, transmission and arm assembly from the door. Usually there are three heavy panhead screws holding this assembly in place.

Once the screws are removed, the assembly will want to fall down into the door cavity so be prepared to hold it in place after removal of the last screw.

The the assembly will have to be "jockeyed" around, with some twisting and sliding in order to separate the outer end of the arm from the bottom frame of the window. This connection is via a "button-like" connector at the end of the arm, which slides into a long slotted guide along the lower edge of the window.

As the assembly is being disconnected, and expecially after separation, the window assembly also is going to want for "fall down" inside the door, so be prepared to "freeze" the window assembly in the "UP" position using a wedge [something like a rubber or wooden doorstop] between the glass and the lower edge of the window opening.

Once the motor/gearbox assembly is out, you can reconnect the wire harness, turn the key on, and test the motor/gearbox assemby for function or failure. Another method is to use test lead jumper wires from the batery. If the operating motor does not move the arm, even as the motor works, the failure is inside the gearbox.

Inside the gearbox, there are three nylon cylinders [about 1/2 inch in diameter by 1/2 inch in length] which act as a safety linkage designed to "slip" if something [like an arm] is caught in the window while it is closing. Over time, these nylon cylinders can become embrittled, and begin to disintegrate, in effect, UNLINKING the arm from the motor.

Usually, the Ford dealer will have a repair kit which includes some parts for overhauling the gearbox. Replacement nylon cylinders will be included in the kit.

From here on, the job is just a matter of installing the new parts, cleaning and lubricating everything, and reassembling everything pulled out. Good luck.

You will most likely need to replace any plastic fasteners as these tend to break even when removing them carefully. These 'plastic clips' are not expensive and can be found at any Toyota dealership.

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There is a procedure to remove the front interior door panel on a 1996 Camry with photos at this URL. The 1992 - 1996 Camry's are the same, so this procedure will work on the 1993 Camry too. It shoud be very similar for the rear door. The hardest part is removing the bezel. Once you know how, though, it is not too hard. No need to break anything. You can paste this URL into your web browser or click on the Related links below. Good Luck!

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264887

Fuses That "Blow" Repeatedly

Without being able to "hands on" troubleshoot the circuit served by the repeatedly blowing fuse, none of us can identify the specific defect which is causing your problem.

Therefore, the following generic answer can be applied to any electrical circuit, whether in a vehicle, or in a building, or whether alternating current [AC] or direct current [DC].

Fuses [and Circuit Breakers] are safety devices designed and installed in electrical circuits TO PROTECT the conductors [wires] and other components from short circuit conditions and/or overload conditions which cause an extremely large flow of electrical current [measured in Amperes], which causes overheating of the conductors that results in damage to the insulation and the conductors.

And in a worst case scenario, the probability of a FIRE which could destroy the vehicle, house, or other structure in which the circuit is located.

When a fuse or Circuit Breaker [and replacement fuses, or repeatedly "tripping" Circuit Breakers] "blow," especially if it happens repeatedly, is an indication of an UNSAFE CONDITION in that circuit, usually a short.

The fuse or circuit breaker is doing what it was designed, intended, and installed to do, that is to protect the conductors and components of the circuit which it serves.

The proper "fix" for this issue is for a qualified technician, who knows what he or she is doing, to troubleshoot the involved circuit, find and identify the defect, and make proper repair [s], BEFORE replacing the fuse again [with the properly sized fuse or before resetting a circuit breaker].

Some ignorant few people will suggest installing a larger fuse or breaker to solve the problem, BUT that will only increase the hazard, not correct it.

Do not follow "bad" advice by installing a larger fuse in a misguided attempt to correct the problem. To install an oversized fuse would almost guarantee damage to the wiring and the probability of an electrical system fire.