Electric Windows

Check fuses

The fuse panel is under the rear seat. The window fuse is in the #57 spot. It is a metal fuse breaker and is larger than the regular fuse. Should be a 30 amp though.

The primary gain from using LED lights is the amount of time they're good for. Typically they will give the owner a vastly longer span of use than traditional light bulbs would give.

When putting the mirror and backing plate back onto the car you want to first set the positioners correctly. You want to make sure the positioners are attached to the motor first, do not try to have them attached to the backing plate and push them into the motor, they move around too much and you might damage one.

The positioners have rounded heads on them but they have little plastic ridges on two sides of the ball that have to be lined up with notches in the backing plate. The top one should have the ridges straight up and down and the left should be going left/right.

Put the backing plate against the center pivot and push it back onto the pivot ball until it snaps into place. You will need to put almost all the pressure on the center. If you push too much on either end you could flex the glass too much and crack it.

Once the center pivot is in place you work on snapping the positioners into their sockets. Push the mirror all the way to the left. It will push the positioner all the way down into the motor until it hits bottom then you can press on the area of glass directly over the positioner until it pops into it's socket. Then push the mirror back to center and then all the way up to pop the top positioner into place.

The symptoms described suggest that the window is not off, or out of, the guide tracks. I suspect that the lifting device[there are a few different methods] has become broken or disconnected from the window. The only "fix" for that is replacement. Since you indicate that you can manually lift the window I have a suggestion for a temporary fix for holding the window closed. First, go to almost any hardware store and buy a rubber or plastic wedge shaped door stop. Then, manually raise the window to the fully closed position. At this point an assistant [a second pair of hands to hold the window in the full up position] will be helpful. With the window fully up, insert the wedge-shaped doorstop between the window and the door panel [on the inside]. Done securely, this should hold the window closed until you can get the proper repair accomplished.

I have a 1996 RS and have had this same problem,make sure that when you can get the window to work you put it up and leave it up.Your power window motor is going out and eventually it won't budge at all.Purchase the motor through your local dealership as it will come with the regulator.Changing it yourself can be difficult because of the rivet that holds the regulator in place.If you get someone else to change it it normally runs about $100.00 Dealership price for the motor and regulator is about $100.00 Auto Zone price is about $50.00 and has a lifetime warranty but no regulator.Be prepared though,I have had to have mine changed numerous times and it can get costly,I think it is a small price to pay for the priveledge of owning my car.

I DITTO THE ABOVE ANSWER ABOUT A BAD MOTOR, I JUST WENT THROUGH IT WITH MY NEWLY PURCHASED 99 Z-28. MOTOR WENT OUT A FEW DAYS AFTER I HAD IT, TOOK IT BACK TO WHERE I BOUGHT IT, THEY DETERMINED IT WAS THE MOTOR AND WOULD SPLIT COSTS 50/50, WITH ME PAYING $250!!! AFTER 3 DAYS OF THEM REPLACING THE MOTOR, THE WINDOW AND TINT, BECAUSE THEY SCRATCHED BOTH SOMEHOW. AFTER GETTING IRATE WITH THE SERVICE MANAGER OVER THE PHONE, ASKING WHAT THE HELL IS GOIN ON WITH MY CAMARO???? THREE DAYS FOR A SIMPLE WINDOW MOTOR. WENT IN TO PICK UP MY CAR AND PAY THE $250 BILL,WENT UP TO THE COUNTER AND MY BILL HAD ALL ZERO'S, DIDN'T HAVE TO PAY. I TOLD THE SERVICE PERSON THAT "I WASN'T LOOKING FOR ZER0'S, I WAS LOOKING FOR SERVICE!!!!! ANYWAY ITS YOUR MOTOR....GOOD LUCK ======================================================= A lot of guys have done this. I've replaced two motors on my Z28's (yes, I have two. A 1994 and a 1996) As the prior reply indicated, just go to Autozone and buy one for around $49. It does indeed have a lifetime warranty. There are numerous writeups on how to do it yourself. It's quite easy. You only need a Phillips screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers (to hold the retaining nut), possibly a small crescent wrench and definitely a drill/drillbit (to drill out the factory rivet). The new window motor will come with the small bolt/nut to replace the factory rivet. Just Google to find the writeups on how to do the replacement. Some have EXCELLENT pictures to guide you every step of the way. There are also some relay kits you can buy that will make the window go up and down much more quickly. Those you can probably find on Ebay.

ANOTHER ANSWER;

the window motor usually doesn't work off and on sporadically when it dies, it's just an electric motor. pop off the door panel, make sure all of your hinges are greased. check the wiring for water damage and other damage. If that doesn't fix it, THEN check the motor, don't blow money if you don't have to.

It is likely the Relay located inside the door panel.

These cars were designed wrong from the factory. the passengerside motor only gets about 9volts to run a 12 volt motor and that's what kills the motors there is a kit you can buy called 93-02 Firebird/Camaro Auto Trix Passenger Window Fix Kit

Wonder why your passenger window is slow? Your factory wiring is under powering your window motor. This Auto Fix kit will route power from the battery directory to the motor for optimum life and performace.

Features:

* Preventive Maintenance

* Fix slow rolling motors

* Prolong window motor life

* Easy 1 hour or less install time

* No need to replace your window motor

* 50% less cost then new window motor

Includes the following:

* 2 relays with connectors

* All necessary wire

* 2 fuses

* 8 buttconnectors

* Inline fuse holder

* 2 ring connectors

* Detailed graphical instructions

i used this and it works great. someone else

Recent Answer bill2012

My 98 Camaro/ 3800 did the same thing exactly, first the passenger side window and than about 3 years later on the drivers side. In both cases, when I replaced the motor, the windows worked fine. The car is now 14 years old and in my opinion the motors outlived their life expectancy, nothing keeps running forever.

Sounds like a defective switch on the driver's door disconnected wires on either door or you have a lock out switch turned on...

with driver door, i suggest pulling your "panel" off and verify your switch is actually connected and if it is, then replace the switch

I don't think these are related issues, but I could be wrong... only because I know I cannot open my sunroof (it will not close then...) so when my window switch bank crapped out, that is what I replaced and it fixed the window issue. The window switch banks are VERY commonly replaced. I sent my broken one in and I was sent a refurbished one. This is better than the crappy aftermarket ones, which i tried twice and they were horrible!! I finally sent mine to Swedish Car Parts in Chicago. When the wierd guy on the phone told me he could fix it I was a bit hesitant, but I am happy with my "new" used switchbank!It WORKS and has for over a year. What more can I ask for?????

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These may actually be related issues. They all happened at exactly the same time. On my 98 Volvo S70, a broken switch on the Master Window Control Unit caused a window to be constantly engaged. This may have been what caused a relay in the fuse panel (under the hood) to become very hot. My problem is currently unsolved, but this is what I know:

- The fuse labeled "sunroof" is fine. The dash lights go out when it is pulled.

- The power locks function properly.

- The Rear Lockout Rocker has no effect.

- The power mirror switch also does not function.

- When the Master Window Control Unit is physically disconnected from the wiring harness, the fuel door does not operate - but it works fine otherwise.

- I replaced the Master Window Control Unit with one from a junk yard which provided no remedy. Perhaps both are defective.

- The relay under the hood that had become hot has been swapped with it's neighbor (assumed to be functioning) which provided no remedy.

Can anyone offer any other missed opportunities?

Take off the inner door panel then remove them insulation plastic then reach inside and adjust it back on track feeling it with your hands

Remove door panel by taking out the Phillips screws around the perimeter 3-4 are hidden beneath circular plugs, and one screw in the door handle well and in the armrest well. note: There may also be 1-2 exposed Phillips screws along the front/rear/lower edge of the panel. Also this is a little easier to do if the window is down

Once these are removed, carefully pry off the tweeter speaker panel (if separate from main panel" the door panel, and then carefully pry the lower rear part of the panel from the metal door frame to release approx 7 push pins around the lower half of the panel. Lift slightly upward to allow the window weatherstrip to lift out of window opening and around the door handle. Once the panel is loose, disconnect wire harnesses for sidemarker and switch. The switch is easily removed from the panel now by 2-3 Phillips screws from beneath. Similar Process is for 2000-2006 driver or passenger side, just a different type switch.

Reassembly similar, just be sure to get the weatherstrip for the lower window in place as you lower the panel in to place and work it over the door handle.

NEED TO TAKE THE WHOLE DOOR PANEL OFF

The Fleetwood of this vintage has a circuit breaker on the fuse panel. It is a cylindrical device that snaps in like a fuse and on the bottom of the fuse panel. Check your manual for the exact location. That may --not-- be the problem, it could be a fuseable link between there and the starter, where the power divides coming from the battery. There is a possiblity of a problem with the ignition switch causing the problem as well. Also, this divine classic has the "Emergency" switch and bypass switch, which could be root of the problem. The best thing is to become friends with your DC voltmeter and trace out the circuit. A Cadillac shop manual is your best friend for doing this. I have one for my 1968 Fleetwood Limo and have spent many "quality" hours with this good book.

The wood panel lifts up just enough to pop the bottoms of each switch off with a flat blade screwdriver. You need to pry off all 4 window switches, the window safety lock, the hazard, the radio speaker knob, etc. BUT before doing this you have to carefully pop off the black plastic trim ring around the gear shifter 1st and then use a flat paint scraper or butter knife at the base of the wood closest to the armrest area and pry gently away and up. Don't use a flat blade driver because you don't want to chip the wood panel. Once you get all of the wire plugs separated from each of the button switches you can turn it upside down and GENTLY pop the switch out. I say "gently" because this is the most common area of breakage and once you break a clip that secures the switch from the underside of the wood panel you are screwed. The only way the switch will stay in place now is by using a glob of good ole JB Weld, which works great but now that switch will be there permanently.

Take the door panel off by removing the door handle then all screws you can find. then with a splecial tool, remove all of the retainers on the sides and thee bottom of the door. Then when all is loose, pull out on the bottom and push in on the top of the panel and lift up to diaengage from the door. There are sharp edges insede the door so be careful. Also the window regulator is spring loaded.

It might be caused by weak or worn out gas struts on either side of the window. You could probably get them at any auto parts store.

i will give you base information on the panel removal. First remove all attachments. the door handle, pull bars, window controls, switches,or crank, and possibility the door lock. The is tool specifically designed to remove the clip/pins that hold the panel. If it is possible borrow or buy one. They are not expensive. Place the edge under the edge of the panel at the bottom back corner. Only a little. Just enough to locate the pins that hold the panel. When located slip the 'V" of the tool so it places the pin in the middle and lift gently. Repeat this all away around the panel. There are not usually any on the top of the panel. It is not a good idea to use a screw driver for this. Been there done that, broke the pins. It is possible to break the pins even with the tool. The pins are ususally plastic and they get weak with age. If they do break replace them. parts store usually cheap. Ease the panel off the door, and put it somewhere, where it will not be damaged. Reinstallation is the reverse. Good things to do if you can, use a digital camera and take pictures at each step of the process. They can be useful when you put stuff back together. Place any parts you take off into plastic bags and mark what it is. Probably won't end up with any extra parts. hope it helps. duboff

I have had 2 of these go out on my 2002 T and C. Each door has has two motors in them to lift the window faster and more evenly. I hope yours did not go out with with the window down and 200o miles from home like mine did.

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Under the dash drivers side

I currently have the same problem. As you have mentioned, you ruled out that it is the switch. To confirm it is the motor, use a voltmeter to confirm power is running to both wires that connect to the motor. You simply ground one of the voltmeter's wires to any unpainted surface, put the other voltmeter wire into one of the two "holes" of the plug and push the window button up or down. One side runs current when you push the window up and the other side is for pushing the window down. You will have to replace the motor. (It will help if you have someone to help because is it pretty awkward if you have to do it yourself.) If you have current running on both wires, then you know you will need to replace the motor. Good luck!

Not enough info to answer. Please ask a new question and include year, make, model of the vehicle.