Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer

On the trans.

I would suggest buying a Chilton's guide for most definitive information. 1-4-2-5-3-6 with the DIS ignition system according to (see link) Go to the Ranger Station online you can get all the info you want from this forum. You name it and they have it, if not just post a link and somone in the forum will know. You probably can go to the Tech Library and get you answer along with diagram. Heres the link http://www.therangerstation.com/ Let me know if you get what you need I am listed as sun417 on the forum Good Luck

This is a vacuum issue, as your demand on the engine increases (power to climb the hill) so does the vacuum created by the engine by increased acceleration...this causes the vacuum operated controls in the airbox to switch position.

It may be located on the very top of the rear end-third member. If it's there you will see it. Painterrb@Windstream.net

yb6vnThe coolant temperature sending unit is located just right (looking from the front of the vehicle at the engine) of the distributor. there is one wire very similar to the one that actuates your solenoid, connected to the top of the sending unit. simply remove the wire by pulling it off, find the apropriate deep socket, and unscrew the old sending unit. while you have it off, test the gague and wiring by finding a friend to help you by truning the key on and off. have your friend sit in the drivers seat and watch the temp gague. find a nail or something to ground that wire, have your friend turn the key to run but not start, the gague should read cold. then ground the wire, the gague should instantly spike up to hot. only do this for a few seconds. If your gague didn't do this, then the connection or gague is bad. install the new sending unit with a little RTV on the threads. reattach the wire and you're good to go.

I know that on my 1995 Ford EXPLORER the Powertrain Control Module

( PCM ) will start cutting back on the fuel in order to protect the engine

at a certain RPM when it is in gear and a much lower RPM if it is in park or

neutral when there is no load on the engine , I assume your Ford Bronco is

similar

if you get under the hood on the drivers side, lean in a little bit, look down the firewall, you will see it sitting on your transmission.

You don't need to repaint it. Just buff it and the color will come back. I have a fire engine red bronco and the top was all faded and i buffed the whole top with just a buffing compound and it looks brand new now. the only problem was that it looked to good and i had to do the rest of the turck

I don't think so. I have a 1996 Bronco - and brought the truck to a discount tire place asking the same question - I wanted the biggest tire I could w/out rubbing issues, etc. We sized it up with a bunch of different sizes/brands.

32' x 11.50 R15 was the largest size the stock bronco could take. Kindof an oddball size, but BFG makes them (All Terrain Radials), and they look and drive great - first set lasted me 6 years.... tons of highway driving, good bit offroad.

In the opening where the handle goes through the door panel you should be able to feel a small bolt. Removing this bolt will allow the old handle to come off for replacement.

The 5.0 L ( 302 cubic inch ) V8 engine has 1 timing chain

broken hardware, a manual will describe how it's assembled, and basically, just need to remove door panel, and look for the obvious, and repair..good luck everyone should have a manual for their vechicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the reference section for FREE to make copies of--the PRO manual has more detailed info, and may have wiring diagrams when needed...read up and fix 'em like a PRO...good luck Dave :)

Look at the Electronic Control Module. If it is the module type that looks like a dull aluminum box with 2 or 3 plugs to it, these are problematic; Replace it and keep a spare with you at all times.

Look at the Electronic Control Module. If it is the module type that looks like a dull aluminum box with 2 or 3 plugs to it, these are problematic; Replace it and keep a spare with you at all times.

5x8 rear 5 1/2 front

No you dont need to bleed the brakes if you are just changing the pads, there are more ansers to car maintenance questions at ; www.carbasics.co.uk

As far as I know, you just put the truck up, remove a bit of brake fluid from the master cylinder (and dispose of it, never reuse brake fluid) to avoid it overflowing when you take a c-clamp and tighten it enough on the caliper to bottom the pistons in their bores (this is when the master cylinder fluid level rises) then remove the c-clamp. I'm not sure but i think you can just pop out the two caliper slide pin bolts (top one first, try to retain as much of the grease on them as possible) and pull the caliper off. Since I haven't actually done this yet, you might need to take the caliper assembly off of the wheel hub by two bolts (factory loc-tite'ed, so that might take an impact wrench, or maybe my 120lb body isn't strong enough). suspend the caliper assembly with a wire so it doesn't just hang from the brake line. then switch out your pads (and shims if applicable) on your anchor plate, slide the caliper back over the pads, line up the pins and tighten them to 14-26 ft lbs. if you had to remove those bolts from the wheel hub, spec says 80ft lbs, and you may want to re-loctite them. replace wheels, lower truck, start it up, pump the brakes to readjust the pistons (pedal may go to the floor the first time, just keep pumping till they feel firm), top off the master cylinder and you're done.

It's located directly above the passenger side trans-axle shaft.

Yes, might have to trim bumper slightly if planning to off road. At full turn tires might rub slightly

There are many things that can cause a rough idle on this car. The computer could be going out, the engine may not have enough oil, and the engine may not be getting enough fuel or electricity.

The horn relay in a 1994 Ford Bronco is located on attached to the cruise module. The electrical relay is under the hood.

If its an automatic just add the fluid right through the dipstick tube, If its a manual theres a plug to remove on the tranny (drivers side I believe) and just add it through there.

1 disconnect (-) battery cable

2 remove door panel

3 remove speaker

4 unplug 'door open' warning switch

5 disconnect pigtail electrical connector for outside door lock illumination light (if u have that)

6 remove 2 retaining nuts for outside door handle and trim... lower the outside trim from door

7 unplug power door lock plunger and door handle illumination connector

8 remove 2 screws that hold the front door latch control and link to door

9 remove the three screws that hold the latch (on outside, around the v shaped cutout for pillar pin)

10 latch should come out by moving it forward and rotating the whole assembly out of the door

(goggomobil)

You can find the vss by going under the car, on backside of transmission facing the floorboards. Right where the transmission mounts to the engine, near the motor mount you will find the vss which points upward......it is held in with a 10mm bolt and pulls out upward. I unfortunately snapped the bolt and took it out in pieces with a vise-grip. Good Luck! Bill in CT.

If you're talking about the thing that looks like a cross at the end of your drive shaft, take a look at it. There are some ring clamps inset on the face of each arm. You'll need a pair of needle nose to crimp them off. After you remove those, you'll need a nail set or something hard to place on the face and a hammer or baby sledge. You'll need to hammer that piece out in order to remove the u-joint. When you install the new one, it works in reverse. Hope this helps.

look in a repair manual for the location should be on the driver side in the tailshaft of a 2wd and in the t-case of a 4wd