Ford Escape XLS

In a 1989 Ford F-250, the fuse box typically contains fuses for various electrical components, such as the headlights, taillights, horn, and radio. The specific fuse ratings and their locations can vary, so it's best to refer to the owner's manual for an accurate diagram. Common fuse ratings include 15A for headlights, 10A for the radio, and 20A for power windows. If the manual is unavailable, you can visually inspect the fuses for any signs of damage or use a multimeter to test for continuity.

Is it continual, or intermittant? Mine does that only when it's damp - check your wiring to be sure it's all covered & contained as it should be.

An object in motion tends to stay in motion.

1950's Ford engine plant, assembly date and inspection codes are generally stamped on a machined surface at the front end of the engine block.

Example: 4-78NC from an MEL block 410cid (Edsel E475)

4= Lima engine plant

7= 1957

8= August, while O=October, A=November and B=December

N= 13th day of month (I's are skipped, 26th-31st are inverted A thru F)

C= inspector i.d.

Other engine plant codes:

1=Cleveland engine plant #1

2=Cleveland engine plant #2

3=Dearborn engine plant

On FE blocks, look for the codes on the vertical machined block face just outboard and slightly above the right-side water pump/engine block interface.

On early MEL blocks, the numbers can be found on an upward-facing machined surface just above the left water pump/engine block interface.

Some later MEL blocks, including all service replacements assembled after February 7, 1958, have the code stamped on the right rear portion of the oil pan rail.

On Y-block engines, look for the code in the upward-facing surface at the center of the cylinder block at the push-rod cover to cylinder block mounting surface.

223cid six cylinders have the codes stamped into the front left corner of the engine block, facing outboard, directly below the cylinder head surface.

Later 1958 MEL blocks have their numbers stamped into the aft vertical machined surface of the engine block, instead of the front.

1959 and later FE block engine codes are stamped on a vertical surface just forward of the dipstick on the driver's side. Look for a jutting surface on the block just below and forward of the lower forward corner of the left exhaust manifold.

Starting in 1960 the code took the following form:

Example: 4-1G20J from a 6-cylinder 170cid Comet (which originally was intended to be an Edsel model)

4= Lima engine plant

1= 1961

G= July (I's are skipped)

20= 20th day of month (this could be a single digit for days 1 through 9)

J= inspector i.d.

Now, just *which* engine codes are we looking for?

The engine number is the last 8 digits of the VIN(vehicle identification number) and is stamped on the engine block, transmission, frame and transfer case (if equipped).

no, you can buy a replacement door handle on eBay and remove door panel and just watch your plastic clips.

I loved my trooper [87 4 door]! Got 175000 from it then it got too crazy. I hope you have the Hayes manual-its worth every cent. The adj for idle on the 2.3 manual 5 speed, CARBed is a simple adjustment nut or screw type thing very close to the throttle asslembly on top of the carb body. I cant remember but if 87 was the year they started with the automatic trans and the fuel inj then I dont know as well. But-if you do have the carbed 2.3 just follow the gas pedal cable with the engine running [someone gicing it a little gas helps] .Follow the cable to the carb and you'll see two adj screwss just like on an old mini-bike or lawn mower. Sorry if you know this and your asking about injected 2.3s but I think the troopers stayed very simple, lean, practical, and easy to deal with until the early 90s when they strted to compete with akll the other piece of cr*p SUV that were really designed for grocery shopping and picnics-not work. Good luck and keep that 87 going

Assuming the car is a gas powered vehicle, and not a diesel the answer is, just long enough to get all the snow off the windshield. You don't need to let the car idle before driving it. The only reason to let it idle before driving is to defrost/defog the windows.

£99.50 FROM FORD HAVING ONE FITTED TUESDAY

Please note, Freon is the name of R-12 (Dichlorodifluoromethane) which was used prior to the change in 1993 to R134A (hydrofluorocarbon). Your Chevy does not use Freon, it uses the refrigerant R134A. If you are planning on servicing it yourself, I would suggest getting a dispenser with a gauge on it. The one thing you do not want to do is overcharge a system. You can purchase R134A from a local auto parts store.

There is no EGR valve on an Aspire.

The 2006 Ford Escape Owner Guide shows :

The Motorcraft BXT-40R battery ( 590 cold cranking amps according to fordparts.com )

The 2003 Ford Escape is 5 ft. 10.1 in. (70.1 in.)1 one-touch power windows wide.

firewall #1----#2----#3 #4----#5----#6 front of vehicle

According to the 2009 Ford Escape Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.5 liter four cylinder engine takes ( 5.3 U.S. quarts )

The 3.0 , V6 takes ( 6.0 quarts )

* 5W-20 is used

The website surplusrifle.com has some good information on the Enfield, as well as other military surplus rifles and handguns. It includes a photo illustrated "how to disassemble" instruction. The bolt catch is tricky until you learn the release- which is shown.

5 quarts

I figured this one out today. The Haynes manual says to remove the front axel... well, that isn't as simple as writing it down. I improvised.

Remove the front drive shaft. The axial spline junction on my shaft was too rusted to 'telescope' in for full removal, so taking the yoke brackets off of the front universal joint was enough for the next step.

The front axel housing/tube bolts to the frame via four rubber bushings; left and right, top and bottom. Remove the bolt from the LOWER bushings on the right and left side. I used an air impact wrench. My air tools were INDISPENSIBLE for this job. The bolts were rusted, but a little liquid wrench and the impact driver broke them free.

Let the front axel housing assembly rotate downward ( a pry bar was necessary for a little encouragement) until the drive shaft can be disengaged from the front yoke. Lift the drive shaft upward, out of the way, and lower the axel housing as far down as it will go.

Next, take the bolt out of the left and right motor mounts. Again, my impact wrench saved my bacon. It was hard to get enough torque on the bolts otherwise with limited access. The rear nut is 11/16, the front bolt head is 5/8. I put a box wrench on the 11/16 nut, and the impact wrench on the 5/8 bolt head, accessed to down from under the hood. I used an extention on the air wrench to reach out and avoid interference.

Finally, I used a small hydrolic jack against the front of the tranny to push up the motor. The suspension raises up a couple of inches as the weight of the motor & tranny transfers to the jack; and then the motor lifted up only 1.5 to 2 inches off the mounts, for a total of ~4" of additional lift... that plus the room from rotating the front axel downward, and the oil pan came right out - of course, I had already taken off the front cover from the bell housing. The clutch slave cylinder & starter were removed, as was the oil filter housing (can't find in the Haynes manual what this oil filter housing is...) for better access to the bolts on the oil pan rim. The motor mount brackets never had to completely 'clear' the frame mount brackets.

I first tried the jack against the bell housing, but the rear of the oil pan interfered w/ the jack.

Fortunately, the cross tube exhaust pipe runs just rear of the bell housing, and I didn't have to disturb the rusted exhaust bolts...

After I bolted the new oil pan into place, I was careful to align the front drive shaft U-joint in the front axel yoke as I jacked the axel housing up to align the bushings and bolt holes again. A little lift, and a little adjustment of the drive shave U-joint... and finally rotating the shaft a little as the transfer case raises into position - the U-joint popped back down into the yoke seat.

1994 Chevy Cheyenne K2500, 5.7 L 5sp manual. My oil pan was rusted, and oil was leaking through the pan. I also changed the leaky freeze plug behind the starter.

A V6 engine is in the shape of a "V" while a 6 cylinder engine is an inline engine in the shape of an "I"

Start by replacing the DPFE sensor. Autozone about $35.00.
newtest3

Fuse # 12 is a 20 amp mini-fuse in the Power Distribution Box in the engine

compartment ( PD Box is " live " ) that is for the power point in a 2006 Mercury

Mariner

On a 2001 Ford Escape :

( Yes )

There is the passenger compartment fuse panel in the drivers footwell on the kick panel

Also , the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine compartment , between the battery and the drivers side front fender

There is no "correct" answer for this. Mileage is just one factor to use in determinign the life of an auto transmission. Some transmissions last for many many miles, and others do not. The big factor is how much regular maintenance and service the trans has seen. Routine fluid and filter changes are important. Also if the transmission was used to tow heavy trailers. The enemy of transmissions is HEAT. Heat destroys the fluids which are inside the tranny. The fluid is pumped inside the tranny to cause the tansmission to turn. The fluid flows throughotu the tranny and when it begins to lose it's lubrication properties or is heated to the place where it loses it's protective additives, then the trans wears out quickly. A "burnt" transmission has a unique smell to it. A transmission that has an added cooler and has pulled trailers should be in better condition than a stock tranny with the usual small tranny cooler. Soem transmissions last longer just because they are built better. Some tranmissions are abused when driver's change directions from drive to reverse without completely stopping first. Maybe if you can better ascertain how the tranny was cared for before looking at mileage as a factor, it will give you a better idea of when it will need changed. I had a Toyota Camry that went 289,000 with the original trnsmission, never a problem because it was maintained and serviced regularly. One other factor is hwo many miles a year th eavg person drives. Some say it's 12,000 per year, some say 15,000. So if you are looking at a tranny with 60,000 to 75,000 miles on it, and it has been cared for, you "should be" okay. More than 100,000 and abused.............look out.

4 1/2 quarts. Start with 4 thou. Sometimes those 2.5's retain a little oil.