Ford Escape XLT

1. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil from the pan. 2. Remove the bolts on the perimiter of the oil pan. 3. Remove the oil pand and its gasket. 4. Install new gasket. 5. Install new oil pan. 6. Install new (or use existing drain plug). 7. OPTIONAL: now is a good time to replace the oil filter. 8. Fill appropriately with oil.

I believe that will be a 7mm Allen key.

They should be with the others under the dashboard right hand side by the drivers door.

Using too low an octane fuel, incorrect timeing, or carbon buildup. Timing isn't adjustable on the 97 so I would say it is carbon buildup and too low octane or cheap quality fuel. I have gotten "93" octane at cheapy places and still had pinging but gotten regular or mid grade at better stations and not had the slightest hint of ping. Also, check to make sure your plugs and wires are in good shape.

I'm assuming that the Ford Escape and Mazda Tribute will be basically the same process since the vehiciles as practically the same. Hope this helps. Project: Replace dashlight behind odometer (PRNDL) light. 2001 Ford Escape.

Time: 10 to 30 min.

Tools: Nut Driver 7mm or (small 7mm socket, socket wrench and small extension)

Cost: $1.50 to $4.00 (cost varies due to location - or so I was told, mine was $4.00)

Screws to remove: only 6 on the 2001, all the same headsize, threadsize and length)

1. Remove two 7mm hex screws on display panel cover (top, underneith)

2. Put on parking brake, engage key (do not start), move PRNDL lever to L to get out of way.

3. Pull the bottom part of display cover straight toward you (there are 2 clips, one on either side of the steering wheel behind the display assembly cover that will snap free - takes a little force - Do one side at a time) Remove and set aside. This reveals the four display unit screws.

4. Remove the four 7mm screws on the actual display panel. (fyi: all screws in this project are the same headsize, threadsize, and length)

4. Tilt top of display panel toward you and remove the three top connectors (they come out easily and are in a cable harness so you can't put them back wrong) You will need to squeeze the middle gently, unlocking connector and pull)

5. Pull out display - which includes "glass" covering - this never gets removed! (adjust steering wheel to lowest position if needed)

6. On the rear of the panel you will see several (little grey) knobs. Find the one right behind the odometer and using a pliers, twist counter clockwise 1/4 turn and remove. The little light bulb is encased in these little knobs and is included as a one-piece replacement for the $1.50 to $4 bucks.

7. Replace bulb assembly by inserting the bulb and turning clockwise 1/4 turn.

8. Assemble following reverse instruction of above.

* This all sounds a lot more complex than it actually is. These steps each only take a minute or so. The most difficult part for me was pulling out the display assembly cover. Took me a few minutes to figure out that there were clips on either side of the base of the display cover and what pressure was needed to pull them free. (it does take a little effort at the base of the display to pull free)

All in all this took me about 15 minutes to remove and about 10 minutes to replace, but I had to find socket size, snap locations of cover, etc etc....

Please feel free to cut and paste this article to any other boards with the same question. I hate to see people getting "ripped off" for a simple 4 dollar job anyone can do.

IN OUR '98 I HAD TO GO UNDER THE VEHICLE AND REMOVE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY FROM THE BACK. THERE'S PROBABLY A BETTER WAY, BUT THAT'S HOW I DID IT. ARM YOURSELF WITH PATIENCE. THERE IS NO EASY WAY ! Gene T.

check wiring harness also check for any possable leakage

Yes , the 2002 Dodge Intrepid is front wheel drive

According to the 2003 Ford Escape Owner Guide :

Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used in the automatic

transaxle with the 2.0 liter four cylinder ( and the 3.0 liter V6 )

Follow the diagram on the radiator support for correct belt routing. To replace the belt you simply swing the belt tensior away from the belt to relax the belt, slip the belt off of the nearest pulley, reroute the new belt in reverse order. the diagram under the hood will direct the proper routing, the belt tensioner, if you aren't familiar with them, is a free-wheeling pulley normally mounted on a spring-loaded bracket that will swing with pressure toward the belt until the belt is released from the pulley, don't confuse the tensioner with the idler pulley, the idler pulley only spins, it doesn't swing to provide tensionTo be more specific in how you actually do this, note that the tension wheel at the end of the tensioner arm DOES NOT HAVE A NUT ON IT. Don't mistakenly put a socket on the bolt at the top which attaches the tension assembly to the engine or you will potentially cause a problem that will be difficult to fix!

If you carefully fell down in the very tight space where the groved pulley is you'll find a 3/8" rectangular hole. This is where you inset the tool to rotate the tension pulley away from the belt. The problem is there is not much space to work in and you will need quite a bit of leverage to move the arm. I strongly suggest using a tool made for this purpose such as the Lisle 59000 ratcheting serpentine tool or similar (check Amazon for a range of tools). You need the two piece tool because you can change the angle to allow the 3/8" drive to fit the square hold in the tensioner arm and at the same time clear the wiring harness that crosses over the engine. The proper angle is going to look something like a backwards "L" at about 120 degrees instead of 90. You will need the full travel of the lever/wrench from the wiring crossover to the firewall to get the new belt on.

If you are careful you can relax the tensioner and leave the wrench in place while taking the old belt off and placing the new belt. Just realize that it is a narrow space and you'll have to reach down and turn the belt sideways to get the old one off and the new one in. (There also an electrical plug sticking out the side of the windshield washer pump that you have to be care of.)

One person can get the old belt off easily once you know how to place the tension tool. However, you will definitely need another hand to put tension on the tool while you hold the slack on the belt with one hand to keep it from coming off the pulleys and use the other hand to slip the belt over the alternator which should be the last pulley you wrap the belt around. A good small flashlight will help you see down into the narrow space to fit the belt of the large pulley at the bottom. Most of the others you will have to place by feel.

You really need the special tool for this job on the Rendezvous as a regular socket wrench is too short for the needed leverage and the standard breaker bar is too long to clear the braces and wiring harness. An 18" - 3/8" ratchet wrench might work, but the correct tool makes it a lot easier.

"http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_items_are_needed_to_tune_the_engine_up_on_a_2005_ford_escape_with_a_3.0" [http://wiki.answers.com/help/answering_questions

because before they were not dim

The heater could be drawing too much power or your alternator isn't producing enough.

Yes it should. In general the Escape from 2001 to 2007 are the same basic platform.

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of Ford Escape ( V6 ) >driver

The ford f-650 weighs 5.2 tons

According to the 2004 Ford Escape Owner Guide :

For the 3.0 liter DOHC , " Duratec " V6 engine :

With engine oil filter change :

( 5.2 litres / 5.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 engine oil )

About 98% of Americans use regular gas in their cars.

That depends on a person's driving habits. Most GM products have a "squeaker," which is a small sheet metal clip attached to the brake pad that will scrape against the rotor when the pad has reached a certain thickness. Listen for a high pitched noise when applying the brakes.

looking up from the bottom of the engine you will see a the "oil Pan " It is just a dish shaped metal Pan to hold the oil. On the rear side of the pan you will see the drain plug. If this is your first time changing oil ask someone to help. Mistakes can be costly.

Start with looking in your owners manual. Take the key less entry fob into the car with you. With your key, turn the ignition on and off eight times. Do not start the vehicle. The door locks will start to cycle lock/unlock Press the lock and unlock button on the fob until it locks and unlocks the door by its self

The proper gap for 1990 aerostar spark plug is .044. This was taken from Dept of Motor Vehicles in Delaware. - Bill R. Jr.

Try going here it will tell how to do it what needs to be removed

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b2052

Find the idler pully of the serpentine belt system. It is usually the one that appears to not "drive" any system and is normally located towards the top of the other pullys. On the idler pully assembly, you will find a bolt (not the bolt in center of pully or the one at the pivot point of assembly). Using the correct sized socket and a large ratchet (or wrench) as a lever, pull or push the idler pully assembly, which is spring tensioned, until the pully moves in far enough to get new belt on. Slowly release tension until belt is tight against the idler pully under the assembly's spring tension. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pullys without any twists.