Ford Explorer XLS

Short in wires or wired incorrectly.

I did mine on a Ram 2500 and I highly recommend that you have a press available, they dont screw in unfortunatly. To change uper ball joints; Remove tire Pull codder pin and remve nut Tap ball joint out of wheel/ brake assembly Remove upper control arm compleatly Use Press to push old ball joint out of controll arm. A torch may be nessisary to heat controll arm. Press new ball joint all the way into controll arm Reinstall every thing Get a professional front end alignment.

My 94 had problems with what I thought was the MAF. You can easily clean the wire within the MAF by using clean ?rubbing? alchohol on a qutip. But, ultimately what cured my problem was to replace the fuel filter. Just get the special tool for the flare connections for it. ( they are like some special airconditioning fittings ). Replace the fuel filter with a top line filter. Don't go cheap. They are just too hard to put in to waste time with a cheap filter. Oh, after you've cleaned the maf wire and replaced the fuel filter. Disconnect your battery ( double check if you need radio codes first ) and then reconnect. Your engine's computer will re-learn after you've started it and driven it around for a while. Best of luck.

Check all fuses. The gauge sending unit/pump have known issues. Cracking, leaks and failure. It sits on the top of the tank so it is a PITA to get to. I find that it would be strange to not get any codes? Instrument cluster failures are more uncommon these days but have been known to happen. The individual gauge unit may have had a failure. The tiny drive units can be replaced in these gauges if you do some research and can find a supplier. You have to be somewhat mechanicaly inclined and dealers will not do it. It is possible to find a replacement cluste if this is the issue and you want to do a swap out but it will have to be recalibrated.

Graff Chevrolet quotes approx. $550 parts and labor.

You can not adjust the shift cable if you have having problems to where your exploer will not go into park then you will need to buy a new shift cable that is the only way to fix the problem

the dash just removes without having to untighten any screws

I had a similar ETC problem and after looking arround, found out that when computer receive a high voltage spike, it goes to failsafe mode and does not generate the trouble code. If look at the saved trouble codes with a scanner, you'll probably find codes that happened after the fact. (mine were two codes about throttle body actuator) After using a scanner with live data, I noticed an occasional misfire on one of the cylinders. It turned out that the coil was going bad and it would not misfire enough to trigger a code but under heavy load (like stepping on the gas) it will generate an spike and trigger a failsafe mode. Hope this is of some help.

You can find a wiring diagram for your truck online. Autozone.com gives you access to free online repair manuals. You just enter your vehicle information and log on and you can use them anytime.

under the hood on the drivers side behind the fuse box .attached vertically to the inner fender

Purchase a custom kit designed for your vehicle. It is a simple unplug and plug back in operation.

Dipstick for both the V-6 & I-4 are located at the front near the radiator. The V-6 will have the dipstick slightly offset toward the passenger side and very close to the radiator, the I-4 will be more centrally located & close to the engine.

Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward all the way just before cranking. Then within 5 seconds, locate, press and hold in the valet/overide button, found under the dash area, (push button, spring loaded) until the installed LED (the blinking light) in your dash area goes on solid, and the siren chirps once.

(Your valet switch might be the toggle (on/off) type. in this case, key on, flip switch in opposite direction, then turn the key off.)

This should reset the alarm, and reset the grounded relay on the starter wire, allowing you to start the engine.

At this point, the only thing working would be the keyless entry from the alarm, if it came equipped that way.

Just Repeat these steps to place it back to usable armed mode. You may get 2 chirps, confirming it, and the lights may flash twice as well.

That should do it.

Check out www.explorerforum.com

The gas tank on the 2004 Ford Focus holds 13.2 gal..

Error 36 is a problem in Driver Side Airbag, Error 37 is passenger side.

We were getting the same symptom (error 36) on ours. After reading of more instances of the same I looked under the driver seat. There is a connector with two wires (white and brown) going into a yellow connector. This connector on mine apparently plugs into a resistor or some circuit element. I unplugged the connector by releasing the catch on the connector in the hole on the right side of the plug.

The two wires right at the connector looked like the wires had been pinched (the insulation was smaller there) This was actually because the copper wire inside the insulation was broken. Ford/Mazda used wire that is too stiff for a flex situation as this wire requires. I stripped the wires, soldered a short piece of more flexible stranded to allow the connector and wires to be connected together. ( taped and insulated with shrink tubing to be sure) No more Air bag light. - use or do at your own risk - good luck!

your fuse is proble blown If the turn signals work then that tells me that the power and wires are good back to the bulbs but you need to check the brake light switch which is located near the brake pedal under dash. Use a 12V circuit tester here to see if there is power going thru it. This may be your problem. I hope this helps you. Mark

put the key in the driver door and lock and unlock the doors

I believe you have lost your engine coolant

The brake light in the dash comes on if the parking brake is engaged or the

brake fluid level is low in the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment

For a 2012 Ford Fusion :

Front wheel drive ( 17.5 )

All wheel drive ( 16.5 U.S. gallons )

it could be your brake light switch,or the fuse could be blown ,or the bulbs could be blown.or it could also be the turn signal switch.

Binding window trim. Can you help it up. Silicone spray the window tracks. test the window switch

There is a problem with the SRS system. This can be very dangerous. Air bag could deplay at any time. Take to dealer immediately and do not attempt to repair yourself.

HI guys,well i took my Taurus to the ford dealership as suggested and it was the clock sping as i thought it was,i work at cars for myself every other day and i can't see what could be dangerous to change the clock spring,considering you drive around with it in your face all the time.

thanks,Peter

Junk it ! Sell it to someone else...there problem fixed. LOL...

There is a pinpoint test procedure to determine where the problem is. Personally, going by your description of the symptoms, I feel the problem is very likely the TFI module. They typically go bad when they get hot and will start working again when they cool off. I would include the diagnostic procedure here, but it is a bit to involved. You can find it in the Mitchells or Motors manuals in the Reference section of the Public Library. Or you can just take it to a trusted mechanic for diagnosis. *I don't know if the above is true or not, but I had the EXACT SAME problem with my 1984 Town Car. The problem was with the FUEL-PUMP RELAY. Try replacing it. If that doesn't work, you can use the unorthodox cure that my shade-tree mechanic used: run a wire from the left tail-light to the electric fuel-pump inside the gas-tank, and when you want the engine to run, turn on the parking-lights. (DON'T FORGET TO TURN OFF THE PARKING LIGHTS WHEN YOU TURN OFF THE ENGINE, or you'll end up with a dead battery). This solution has worked for 1 1/2 years on my car.