Ford Explorer XLS

In the compartment that holds the jack for this model, look for the wires near the rear it should be by the brake light but inside the vehicle. There should be a connection there for the light. If there is corrosion or a loose wire this would cause the problem of the passenger side working and not the drivers, I researched this dealing with no lights except the 3rd light working during braking, turns out it is the trailer harness connection.

You probably have a shorted wire going to the motor or switch. You'll have trace the wires and find the damaged section.

replace the head light switch

235/70/r16

First remove cover around gear shift pops right off and rotate 1/4 turn,next remove gear shift cover with small flathead screwdriver there are four tabs then rotate 1/4 turn.Next remove narrow plastic piece covering bulb.Remove clear plastic piece that surrounds bulb.Pull bulb out and replace very easy.No need to remove console use q-tips,tweezers,or superglue takes about 10 minutes

a malfunction has been detected - get it checked out by a professional

I drive an 2002 Explorer with 168,000 miles; it has the 5R55W automatic transmission in it. Like many of you, my O/D light started flashing, and I was getting a hard shift from 2-3. After much research , including from this site, I learned that the problem is NOT solved by replacing the transmission. The problem is solved by replacing the auto trans solenoid pack (drop the pan, replace the solenoid pack, replace the the pan and refill with fluid). I had the repair done for just over $500 - labor & parts. The challenge is finding a transmission specialist who understands the problem and is willing to do the solenoid replacement INSTEAD of replacing the transmission. My transmission is now shifting silky smooth.

Bill Nye went to Cornell University (B.S.)

You can find free wiring diagrams at www.autozone.com.

If you have the original set of keys that came with the car, there should have been attached a small metal tag with a code on it. That code will be required. However, if it is nowhere to be found, the dealership should be able to assist you with the VIN number, registration and your ID.

ask this question on digitalcorvettes.com in the c3 forum...you will get a good answer

Thermostat malfunction.

Lower ball joints. Grease nipple is accessible from the front

( 13 gallons ) according to the Owner Guide

The gas tank on the 2001 Ford F-250-Super-DUTY holds 38 gal..

According to the 2002 Ford Explorer Owner Guide :

Under the instrument panel on the drivers side :

( # 24 is a 15 amp fuse for the cigarette lighter and OBD II )

there is no reset button, it must be done with an obd2 code scanner ^^ that will probably cost money, easiest way to reset is to disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes...reconnect and your codes are now lost (which is good) unless of course you do have a problem. In which you light will come back in about a day anyway... The MIL trips are it fails a 'routine.' Some routines take longer to complete than others... that is, you have to perform some common driving maneuvers, other routines run every time you start the car. These same routines can also clear the MIL, if they run without failing 3 times or so. So you don't always have to clear the DTC codes with the OBDII scanner or power loss (disconnect battery), sometimes they clear themselves.

OK

Remove the wheel trim and remove the road wheel, I would advice using a good set of axle stands to support the car as you have to give the caliper bolts a bit of welly to get them loose.

Once its up in the air you will have to take off the caliper slide bolts they are hidden under two plastic bungs, you need to use a special Allen/torx key to get these off.

Mine were hard to get out so I took the caliper off and use a good set of moleys against my thigh to get them out.

Ok you will need a 13 mill socket with a good rachet/bar to get the caliper of the suspension leg.. That is when you may have to give it a bit of welly.

Take of the brake anti squeal/rattle spring clips you may have to replace them if you are carefull you may use them again..

Once the caliper and the slide are loose you can get at the pads. they may need a bit of a tap to get them loose but if they are as worn as mine they will fall out.

Ensure you support the caliper so as you don't stretch the brake lines

Leave the inboard pad in place and using a good G Clamp wind the piston back in to caliper body. Make sure you take the top of the fluid reservoir to allow for the piston going back in, once its back take out the old inboard pad and give the piston a good clean out, dry clean cloth, or back clean..

Offer the new pads up into the caliper guide and offer the whole assembly onto to caliper. Replace the caliper pins and tighten then up, replacing the plastic bungs

re attach the caliper to the suspension leg and re tighten the 13 MIL Caliper bolts

replace the road wheel and lower car to ground.. re tighten wheel bolts

road test, take it easy on the brakes till the pads bed in

there now go and clean you hands and show your son just how bad his brakes were..

thanks

martin

First of all, this is a Recall Item. Get it replaced by the dealer. However, if you want to do-it-your-self then read the following. I will describe how to remove back window and then replace it. It does not need a complicated alignment. You will need someone to help you to hold the window. 1. Gently remove the plastic cover from inside so you can see the nut of the joints and disconnect the wiper cable. 2. While widow is fully open (ask the assistant to hold it), remove the clip for each side from the piston rod by a screw driver. Do not lose the clips. The clip is at the window side not the body side. 3. While the assistant is holding the window, unscrew both sides and disconnect the window from the body. You will need Hex key screwdriver. 4. If you are changing the joints, unscrew them from the body of the car. You will need a socket and socket wrench to unscrew the nut from the body. To install window: 1. Install the new joints to the body of the car and screw it to the body. 2. Screw the window to the new joints using the hex screwdriver. 3. Here comes the alignment part. Ask your assistant to fully open the window and hold. 4. You try to connect the piston rod to the window until it clicks to indicate that it is connected. Now put the clips again. 5. That is it.

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?p=287367 theres a diagram here of the rear motor.

I have a 1994 Lexus ES300 and when my brake light came on, it meant that one of my brakes lines had busted. Eventually I had NO brakes. Not sure if this would apply to yours. Get it checked out before it is to late.

could be the fuse, but the sunroof relay is above the sunroof switch attached to the motor, the relay is a possible answer to the sunroof not working.

Sounds like you have a problem with your brake light switch under the dash, mounted on your brake pedal metal arm assembly. I know if I get my head down near the brake pedal and push the pedal with my hand I can hear a loud click noise when the brake lights come on. I'm not a mechanic, but I've wondered if the brake fluid level is down in the master cylinder, does the brake pedal drop enough for the brake light switch to turn on the brake lights ?