Ford Explorer

Usually the fuel pump screen is blocked with debris in tank, or is not operating at all or at the proper pressure. Be careful checking fuel line pressure, suggest that a trained mechanic with fire extinguisher handy do the test, due to the real fire hazard. Next might be fuel pressure regulator or surge control in fuel rails. Could also be burned out circuit in ECU.

Sounds like you need to replace the drivers door lock actuator.

How do you lubricate the throttle kickdown or TV lever ball studs?

disc brakes

It may be condensation from your air conditioner condenser. The drain tube may be plugged causing water to back up and leak from under the dash. A windshield leak may also cause your problem.

There are two screws on the inside of the tail gate, where the hatchback goes down. Remove those two screws and gently pull the light assembly out. There are two bulbs that can be replaced. Real easy to do.

First of all, I don't think that your brakes are going out. I believe that since the engine is stalling, brake fluid isn't being pumped into your brakes. The brakes still work, they are just hard to press. Now, regarding the stalling ... a lot depends on how/when it stalls. Does it stall every time you're idling? Last November (2006), and now again, my 95 Camry is having the following issue ... I can drive it without issues first thing in the morning. I drive on the freeway for about 15 minutes, and as I decelerate off of the freeway, it starts to stumble. When I hit the first stop light, the idle drops very low ... to the point of stalling. To prevent this, I stick it in neutral and rev the engine until I can take off from the stoplight. Last year, we replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, and ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. Our belief was that the temp sensor was failing and causing the EGR (exhaust gas regulator) to trip. The EGR was expensive, so we stopped short of replacing that. Now, when the issue arises (rough idle), I tap on the EGR system and the idle improves. Our belief (hope) is that the EGR is dirty with carbon deposits, and is sticking. I am hoping that by cleaning it, we can resolve the idle issue and avoid buying a new EGR. My best advice is to go get a manual (I have a haynes) and go through the emission and engine control systems. There are quite a few components that can be tested. Hope this helps. Feel free to email me at brian.dunwiddie@charter.net, but I'm not sure how much more info I can give.

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Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online

The power distribution box should be in the engine compartment near the battery

I would install the OEM size or a set of 245/70-15. These would be close to the same diameter and should not effect the speedometer or gearing at all.

Your heater blend door actuator has broken some teeth off internally. This is a VERY common problem in explorers. I have replaced two of them. Go to the Ford dealer an get part number yl5z-19e616-aa. Remove the left rear inside trim panel and this will allow you to access it. It takes about 30 minutes to replace.

The headlight motors are going out. Each headlight has a motor. If you need to replace one, it's best, (and cheapest), to do both of them.

The wheel hub is visible when the wheel is removed from the vehicle. It is the circular part that is used to actually mount the tire/rim assembly to the machinery of which it is a part. The hub assembly acts as a carrier for the mounting lugs/bolts, and generally for the wheel bearings.

by looking at the compass the wrong way or maybe using it wrong

It is for the 4WD control knob. In models without 4WD it is just an extra place to put something.

There is a small " shock absorber " that is angled to stabilize the differential

So , I guess the answer would be ( yes )

On a 1996 Ford Explorer :

The Data Link Connector is behind a small plastic panel which removes

( or maybe flips up )

It is located in the lower part of the dash , below the steering wheel and

between the inside hood release and the parking/emergency brake release

interior blown head gasket. you need to call a rebuild shop or a dealer immediately. Answer Another possibility is that the piston rings or the piston itself is bad and fuel is making its way past the piston/cylinder area and into the base of the engine......in either case, it needs attention ASAP.

If the Heater/AC blower motor has stopped operating on one of the setting, then the problem is not in the switch but in the blower motor resitor. This item has several coiled wires and is housed behind the blower motor just in from of the firewall. If the motor stopped working all together it could be a bad switch on the head unit. 1. Remove the coolant recovery/winshield washer resivoir. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector at the blower motor and the vent hose. Disconnect the cruise control servo (if equipped) and set it aside. 3. Remove the 4 screws holding the blower motor and remove the motor. 4: The resitor is exposed. Remove the bolts holding the resitor. 4. To install the new one, just follow the steps 4-1 backwards. 1991 through 1994 access the switch through the ash tray. Remove and replace 1995 through 2007 access the switch through the radio. Remove the radio by using to removal clips, or unbolt the bezel from the two bolts then slide then entire bezel out. Replace the switch.

getting to the actuator is easy..... how to remove the rods attached to it is something else.....

On some vehicles, the heating/cooling of the brake drums/disks causes the rims to become heat welded. A good, swift kick will usually break them loose. Try rotating the tires 90 degrees and kicking them after each turn. The rim should pop off after that.

Luck!

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagram ) can be viewed online

When the engine is cool

a 200 cc ingen is 5.6 hp