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Ford Tempo
The Ford Tempo was a 4-door car manufactured by Ford Motor Company from 1984-1994. Due to its fuel efficiency and aerodynamic-friendly design, this vehicle ranked as one of the best-selling vehicles in the United States.
797 Questions
What is the spark plug gap for a '92 Ford Tempo?
If your Tempo is a 2.3 litre. I believe the gap is.54.
What is the radio wiring schematic for a 1994 Ford Tempo?
Go to: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/932.html
Why is there water leaking on the passenger side floorboard of my 1994 ford tempo?
Would that be when it is raining ? If so you need to caulk around the vent in the fire wall area. If not from rain, then the heater core is leaking, and you will be losing coolant.
Why won't a 1991 Ford Tempo battery hold charge?
put a dwell tester on it and possibly add water to it by prying off the top small compartment and add it there . then if the battery isn't the problem disconnect the positive battery terminal from the battery and if the car dies it is your alternator
How do you replace a neutral safety switch on a 1988 Ford Tempo?
Take off the old one and put a new one back in that spot.
You have blown a fuse. Google image search for "91 tempo fusebox diagram" Good news fuses are cheap and easy to replace, box is under the steering wheel.
What is the amount of carbon dioxide emitted by burning one gallon of gasoline?
The answer is "8.8 kgs or 19.4 pounds of CO2 emissions by burning a gallon of gasoline". The answer and its detailed calculation can be found at http://www.epa.gov/otaq/climate/420f05001.htm. You can also find the amount of carbon dioxide emitted by burning one gallon of diesel on this same web page.
How do you remove and replace a heater core in a 1993 mercury topaz?
You May Not Have to Remove the Dashboard...
I just changed the heater core on my 1993 Topaz this weekend and was surprised how easily it can be done. I was afraid I would have to tear into the bowels of the dash, but wound up NOT having to. Mine has a 3.0L V6, so I can't guarantee it would be the same for the four cylinder, but it would be worth checking out.
The heater core is in a black plastic case under the center of the dash. This case is directly behind the plastic vents under the dash and to the left of the housing for what I believe is the blower motor (since it has a rounded bottom). If you lay down on the floor and look up you should see four screws in the heater core casing - two toward the face of the dash and two toward the firewall. The firewall, passenger side one is a bit of a bear to get to, since they put a flange on the case right where you want to stick your socket (and need to see!), but it is possible to get it out with the right combination of 1/4" extentions. I believe the screw heads are 10mm on those four. Once you have those out, you can pry the bottom half of the case down off the upper half. There is a sealant in the joint, so you may have to work at it a bit. Once it is free, you have to work to get it down past the vent piece (angling the side nearest the vent down and working it out and under the vent - it will not come all the way out). Once it is free, STOP!
The top and bottom halves of the case are molded to hold the heater core in position. The core essentially lays in the molded bottom half. Due to the limited clearance under the dash, the core and bottom half of the case have to come out together. Before you can do this, you will need to undo the hoses from the core fittings in the engine bay. You will need to drain the coolant from the system first (the petcock on the radiator will make this easy). I found it easiest to access the hose fittings from the top passenger side, but that is not to say that it is at all easy. There is no shortage of hard lines and fittings in the way. There IS access from below as well, but it really depedns on how the hose clamps are on there as to how you will be able to get at them. The real hard part is trying to get the hoses broken free from the fittings after the hose clamps are off. They heat seal to the tubes and you have almost no leverage in there to get them free. It can be done, but it is not fun.
If you haven't done so already, you may want to put down a towel or tarp down on the floor inside in case you spill any coolant while removing the case and core. I have an automatic transmission so the console kept me from being able to slide the case toward the seats. I don't know if this would be a problem on a manual or not. Due to the blower box being right next to the core case on the passenger side, you pretty much have to take it out the driver's side. You will have to depress the pedals as you go to make room, but it should slide right out that way. My old core had a couple foam pads stuck to it that my new one didn't have, so I peeled them off and stuck them on my new one. I would suggest washing and drying out the case to get any coolant out of it before dropping the new one in. If you wanted to put new sealant under the core and around the seal, you could, but I didn't bother and just left the old stuff intact.
I hate the line "Installation is reverse of removal," but it is fairly true in this case. You may have to quickly start the car to relieve the pressure on the brakes system so you can depress the brake pedal again to get it back in. Be careful to get the pipe fittings lined up with the holes in the firewall foam gasket so you don't rip it. Make sure the rib on the top half of the case drops into the groove on the lower half of the case. Replace the four screws to secure the core in the case. When it comes to putting the hose clamps back on, I found it helpful to have two people - one underneath to hold the clamp and one above to tighten it. Not quite as bad as getting them off, but still no fun.
Refill your cooling system, get it up to temperature, purge the air, and top it off and you should be good to go. I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly it went, but working on the engine side of things is definitely hard on the hands, so be prepared for a bit of frustration there. Have fun!
Basics for removing a heater coreHi,Well you've happened to have caught me on a day when I am going to have to replace the heater core in my own 93 Tracer Wagon. Now these vehicles should be close enough in configuration as to be of help to you.
The first thing that I would recommend is that you go to the library and get a book on your specific car, usually by Chilton or some such author. In this book it should tell you specifically how to take out the heater core. Browse through the book first to make sure. If it doesn't give you enough information then go to the reference area of the library and find what is called a "Motor Manual" for your specific car. These books aren't usually allowed to be taken out of the library, but you can copy the pages that you need on their copier.
But to give you a quick overview of what you have to look forward to, here are some of the highlights: First drain the coolant. Locate the heater hoses at the firewall and disconnect them. Now here comes the fun part. Go into the interior and clean out the front of the car completely since you will be working there for quite a while and you don't want to lose any of the screws/parts among a bunch of junk laying on the floor. Start removing the dashboard, there are a bunch of screws on top near the windshield, some maybe on the side and underneath. If you have a floor shifter and a console this will be getting in your way while you are working and some of it may need to be removed. You will also have to disconnect and/or remove the radio and probably the speedometer and guage cluster unless you are able to get underneath and disconnect these things. NOW DON'T FORGET YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO PUT ALL OF THIS BACK TOGETHER AGAIN, SO GO SLOW AND IF YOU DON'T THINK THAT YOU CAN REMEBER WHERE THINGS GO, IT MIGHT BE A GOOD IDEA TO MARK SOME THINGS WITH A PIECE OF MASKING TAPE AND WRITE DOWN WHERE IT GOES TO.
Now once you get the dash off your almost home free. By this time you should be able to see all of the heater/air conditioner components, don't disconnect anything that you don't have to. Open up the heater core compartment and remove the heater core, be careful not to ruin any of the sponge rubber, rubber seals etc. that may be there. Pull out the old heater core and make sure that the one you are going to put in is identical to the one you just pulled out.
Now the process that you just went through is reversed. Just make sure that you replace EVERYTHING that you removed. Good luck.
Someone else may have a different way of doing this but from experience (40 years of being a mechanic) this is just about what you are going to be looking at, but never turn down another persons idea unless you know it won't work or will cost you more work in the end.
John
How do you replace the heater core for an 1992 ford tempo 4 cylinders?
Replacing the heater core on Tempos and Topazes from 1990 to 1994 is not an easy project.But because it is not easy, that is not to say it can't be done by the home diy mechanic. A shop rate of $80.00/ hr at 2-3 hours might entice one to take a stab at it. The heater core runs about 40-70 $$$ pending your buying power ( wholesale/ retail). The heater core is located under the dash- dead center- and above the "hump". When looking- you will see a black plastic molded shroud that looks like it is bolted to the underside of the dash panel. It has a contour design to it, sort of half rounded. It is indeed bolted to something- but not the dash. Rather it is bolted to the heater assembly cowling.
The heater core is behind this contoured rounded shroud. The shroud is held in place by 4 - 6 screws. Two of which are hidden from your view. These are on the back side between the inside of the firewall and the front of the shroud. Get a mirror and a small flashlight. Place the mirror in a position that shows you a view of the screw heads. They are either Phillips or 1/8 - 1/4 hex. They are located close to the corners of the shroud. Put the mirror under the shroud and point the flashlight up. You will see the screws in the mirror. I used a 1/4 ratchet with an extension to get up in there. Once you get all the screws out, the shroud will still not want to come out. But it will with a little prying persuasion. The halves are sealed for efficiency. Once you get the bottom shroud off, the heater core will be exposed, and if it was leaking, the shroud will have antifreeze in it. Now, before you remove the heater core, go to the front of the car and drain the antifreeze from the radiator. Assuming you know how. Some will say to remove the plug on the back of the engine block as well. That is up to you I don't. Rather, when it comes time to separate the heater hoses from the core, have 2 plugs handy to stuff the hoses with and stop the antifreeze loss.
Now stand on the right side of the front and look in behind the engine between it and the firewall. Looking down you will see a 3/4-1" hose clamped to something coming from the firewall. That's the top port of the heater core. There is another hose connected directly underneath that one, that is the bottom port of the heater core. Remove both of these and go back inside the car and pull the heater core out. If the core won't move, get a piece of 2 x 4 and pry on the outlets of the core, they have been in there a long time and need push sometimes. Take note of your replacement core, if its brass or aluminum. Follow installation instructions as per your type of core. Installation from this point is just a reversal of what you have done to remove the core.
Some will say you must remove the dash, this to me is more headache than needed.
If you don't think you can do this, even with the aid of a Haynes or Clymer manual, you are looking at perhaps $300 or better to have a shop do it for you. As I said at the start, its not an easy project, but, it can be done. After all, a human installed it in the first place.
What makes a gas pedal stick in acceleration?
normally its the throtle cable bad We need more information to help you with your question. Sometimes it is a device connected to the carburetor/throttle body that can cause the pedal to stick. That's what's happening to my car. It only sticks when the car is cold before it is fully warmed up. After I drive a few miles I have no more problems... til the next morning. Does it only do this in cold weather before the engine is warmed up fully? Does it always do it? Check to see if any linkage is binding. Disconnect the throttle/gas pedal cable and check to see if it still happens without the pedal and cable connected. Divide the system and disconnect different devices to see what is the device causing the problem. Have you used carburetor cleaner to clean the throttle plate inside the carburetor/throttle body to remove any deposits that may be causing it to bind? What make, model and year is it? Almost always there is a build up of carbon in the throttle bore. One of the few exceptions I have seen was the cruise control cable breaking and wedging the throttle in a wide open position.
Where is the start neutral switch location on a 4-cyclinder Ford Tempo?
Found some relevant posts in newsgroups. This is what 2 other people have said.
> I was wondering if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction > here... my girlfriends 1993 Tempo (Auto trans/2.3L engine) seemingly has a > bad neutral safety switch. While before she was able to jiggle the shifter > to get it going, it is now beyond that point. Does anyone happen to know > whether the switch is mounted on the inside with the floor shift or if its > underneath on the transmission itself?
The switch is mounted on the top of transmission. The shift linkage goes through it, so you have to remove the linkage. Not hard, three fasteners. One for the linkage, two for the switch.
Easy to get to, just make sure you buy one before you try to get it replaced. It's a LOT easier to have an idea on how it's attached before you try removing it. It's right by the linkage kinda below the throttle body, on the driver's side lean over and look down in a hole where you see a bunch of linkages. My 1993 Tempo had the same problem. It took 5 min to replace and the switch was $15.
"john smith" <e...@yahoo.com> wrote in message Hi there one last time,
Ok I found the switch and it is located as described above. It isn't in the most user friendly place to work on and despite having instructions on how to adjust it ( i will put them at the end) I decided that it would be too much work to try. Instead I decided to bypass the switch. It only took five minutes and barely required any cursing at all.
Step 1.
Unplug the connector on the neutral start switch.
2. There are 4 wires going to this connector. Cut the end two, strip them and connect them together with an alligator clip. If the car starts now those are the right two wires. It was the outside end two on mine, i think the red and white but not sure about the color.
3. Tape everything up and make sure the new loose wires are out of the way.
4. MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN PARK! OR NEUTRAL! BEFORE STARTING THE CAR FROM NOW ON! IT WILL START IN ANY GEAR NOW!
If you were able to disable the switch then you should be smart enough to operate your vehicle without this safety device but make sure you warn anyone who drives your car and be extra careful from now on. THAT SWITCH WAS THERE FOR A REASON, but if your car is as much of a wreck as mine i understand why you wouldn't want to replace anymore parts.
Incase anyone is interested here are the instructions from the book for adjusting and testing the switch.
To test the neutral start switch connect the probes of a continuity tester or ohmmeter to the outside two terminal blades there should be continuity between these blades in neutral or park.
To adjust the Neutral start switch, loosen the bolts, place the lever in Neutral position and insert a no. 43 (.089 inch) drill bit into the adjustment hole, then tighten the bolts.
I hope that helps someone.
Cheers Jay in Ottawa
How do you replace the driver side cv joint on a 1990 Ford Tempo?
first you break the lug nuts lose. Then you need to remove the large nut that is in the center of the wheel. jack the car up and remove the tire. BLOCK YOUR CAR! At least the e brake. Then use jack stands to support it. Next there are a few options. some remove the caliper but it is not a must. You will need to remove the bolt holding the ball joint in place. Then you will need a "pickle fork"/ ball joint/ tie rod separator. Most parts stores have these for rent or loan. You will need to separate the ball joint from the rest of the hub/spindle.
Next you'll need to POP the end of the shaft that connects to the trans. To do this you can use a small pry bar. and use a fast jerk. you'll know when its lose. you don't need to take it all the way out yet. Just get it lose. Now go back to the front. You should be able to pull the hub/spindle back and too the right. you can now remove the half shaft.
To put the new one in you need to grease the snap ring. place it in the middle of the shaft end and slide it into the trasns. Make sure the spline teeth are aligned and then put your hub and spindle back together. after you have everything but the tire and the last large nut that goes in the middle of the tire back on. you'll need to seat the end that is in the trans. To do this I put the nut on as far as the end of the threads so you don't mess them up. then use a block of wood and a large hammer to snap it back in. if you don't snap it in it wont work!! after you have it in put your tire back on and lower your car to the ground. Your going to need a to tork the large bolt to ( I think I didn't look it up for this car but most are 100) 100. Your good to drive.
you may have lost some trans fluid but most likely not. If so make sure you check it and refill what is missing. to check it your car needs to be warmed up and running in park. Good luck
Release tension on and remove the drive belt. Spin each bearing by hand - you will know which one is bad by the "rough" feel. Then check your local parts store.
What would cause brake lights not to come on until the brake pedal is all the way compressed?
Check the switch adjustment on the brake pedal arm.
Ignition chime won't go off after car is started 1994 ford tempo?
If the ignition chime will not turn off on a 1994 Ford tempo the switch for the sound is jammed. The steering column with have to be removed to access the switch for the ignition chime.
How do you remove the factory radio from a 1989 Ford Tempo?
Remove the neg battery cable tehn the aC ducts under the dash. Then take the wires and bolts holding the radio from under the dash. Then remove the knobs and the nuts under them. Work the radio out from under the dash.
First remove the bezel from the dash, (around the radio). Use 4 heavy pieces of wire and insert one into each of the holes in the corners of faceplate of the radio. Push them in approx. 2 inches then pull the radio out the front and disconnect the wires and antenna.
How do you check or fix a fuel pump secondary circuit fault on a 90 ford tempo?
Check the trigger (smaller) wire on starter, they have a tendency to corrode Check the stater solenoid at the end of the battery + cable, jump across the smaller wire and the starter wire To change starter: Disconnect the - battery cable raise and support vehicle remove starter mounting bolts disconnect wiring harness at the top of starter remove starter
Can the ac pulley on a '94 ford tempo be bypassed with a smaller belt and no additional pulleys?
i know for a fact that a 93 tempo can be...the size belt is 62"
With a 3.0L engine 4.5 quarts of 5W-20 With a 2.3L engine 5 quarts of 5W-20
How do you replace harmonic balancer on 93 Ford Tempo?
1994 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L Harmonic Balancer Removal and Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery terminal.
2. Disconnect the battery ground strap from the starboard side of the engine near the passenger side strut tower by removing the bottom bolt of the fuel line shield.
3. Release tension on the belt tensioner and remove the drive belt.
4. Remove the fuel line shield. {If you don't, it will prevent the engine from dropping down far enough later when you try to lower the engine to remove and reinstall the harmonic balancer. It is also nice to have this out before trying to remove the water pump pulley.}
5. Remove the belt tensioner. {It will be in the way when attempting to remove the engine side of the starboard engine mount.}
6. Mark front side of the water pump pulley and then remove the water pump pulley.
7. Check the bearings and free play of the water pump, idler pulley, and belt tensioner pulley. If any of these is worn, replace it now. You have already done the labor!
8. Raise and support the vehicle.
9. Remove bolt for accumulator-to-compressor A/C line support bracket, then position A/C line toward rear of engine compartment.
10. Install a Rotunda Engine Support Bar 014-00750 or equivalent;
Or position a bottle jack or equivalent and safety stands under the transmission and engine, use blocks of wood to protect the oil and transmission pans.
11. Remove both sides of the starboard engine mount. {Remove the second half of the mount on the engine side as well as the half on the wheel well. This means getting to the upside down 18mm nut at the firewall end of the engine mount. I have had success getting to this from underneath the car with a long extension.}
12. Remove right (starboard) side bushing bracket and mounting bracket for stabilizer.
13. Remove the vibration harmonic balancer bolt:
a. Option A) Remove the 7/8" vibration harmonic balancer bolt through the opening in the wheel well after removing the passenger side {starboard} front tire. Then lower the engine assembly taking care not to crush the fuel fittings that were protected by the fuel line shield.
b. Option B) Carefully Lower the engine assembly and then remove the 7/8" vibration harmonic balancer bolt from under the car. IF, and ONLY IF, you do not have adequate clearance under the car to remove the old or install the new vibration harmonic balancer, perform these additional steps:
i. Remove front isolator through-bolts and lower retaining nuts.
ii. Remove rear isolator through-bolts.
iii. Remove right isolator lower retaining nut, then carefully lower drivetrain.
14. Remove the vibration harmonic balancer. If necessary, use Bearing Puller T77F-4220-B or equivalent. Your vibration harmonic balancer may come off in up to three pieces, the outer sheet metal, the pulley portion including the long ago deteriorated rubber, and the metal sleeve with the key slot that slips over the end of the crankshaft. Fortunately, my metal sleeve came off with a little gentle prying; yours may require a gear puller. 1994 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L Harmonic Balancer Removal and Replacement
Installation is NOT just the reverse of the Removal procedure!
1. Install the NEW vibration harmonic balancer {Removal #14}. IF, and ONLY IF, you do not have adequate clearance under the car to remove the old or install the new vibration harmonic balancer, perform these additional steps:
i. Remove front isolator through-bolts and lower retaining nuts.
ii. Remove rear isolator through-bolts.
iii. Remove right isolator lower retaining nut, then carefully lower drivetrain.
- Install the NEW vibration harmonic balancer bolt {Stretch design for one time use}. Torque to ______ nm or _______ ft. lbs. {Removal #13.}
- Raise the engine assembly {Removal #13}.
- Replace any optional nuts & bolts you may have removed under 1.i, 1.ii, and 1.iii above.
- Install the water pump pulley {Removal #6}. {Check the orientation. Is the front you marked pointed away from the engine? Due to the offset, if you put it on backwards it will shred your new drive belt.}
- Install the belt tensioner {Removal #5}.
- Release tension on the belt tensioner and install the NEW drive belt {Removal #3}.
- Reposition the A/C line and reinstall the bolt for the accumulator-to-compressor A/C line support bracket {Removal #9}.
- Install the engine side of the motor mount {1/2 of Removal #11}.
- Install the mounting bracket for the stabilizer bar {Removal #12}.
- Install the retaining bolts-to-stabilizer bar brackets {Removal #12}.
- Remove supports and lower vehicle {Removal #8}.
- Install engine mount on wheel well {1/2 of Removal #11}.
- Remove Rotunda Engine Support Bar 014-00750 or equivalent {Removal #10}.
- Install fuel line shield. {Bottom bolt secures the battery ground strap. Removal #'s 2 & 4.}
- Connect the battery ground cable {Removal #1}.
