Ford Windstar LX

There are 2 fuseboxes / fuse panels in nearly every Ford product: one directly above the driver's left foot (when the driver is actually sitting in the driver's seat). The other is inside the engine compartment, on the right side - contains high current fuses.

There is extensive coverage of fuses and the circuits each one protects starting around page 341 in the 1996 Owners Manual.

See "Related Questions" below for sources of free online Owners Manuals for 1996+ Ford & Mercury products. Autozone also has the fuse diagrams online. See "Related Links" below

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

Go to the dealer service dept, and ask them to photocopy the diagram out of their wiring diagram book. HI, I have the 1999 Windstar. The fuse diagram is in the owner's manual. It's difficult to read and looks like a grid that has nothing to do with fuses to the layman. Good luck.

A squealing noise is much more likely to be related to the serpentine belt. Change the belt its worn / loose and it's slipping.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Repair would be to replace and I have no direct knowledge of the 99 model but my 2001 wasn't so hard and I would guess that the 99 will be a similar replacement.

* Remove the door panel, on the 2001 it's 2 screws located on the inside door handle, 2 on the bottom and one at the top near the mirror.

* With that removed you take off the foam panel and expose the inside of the door.

* The lock actuators are easy to find, they are attached to the lock rod. There is one electrical connector on it that is taken off by lifting the lock clip using a slot screwdriver then just pull the connector out.

* The actuator itself is a bit odd to get out.

To look at the new one it seemed to me that it would click in from the top but after doing the first one I saw that it actually SLIDES in from the direction of the outside of the door.

I found a very thin narrow slit located where the striker hits the lock on the outside door jam and this goes directly to the side of the actuator. I fashioned a tool from a narrow putty knife then pushed it into the slit and then pushed onto the actuator releasing the little friction clip that you can see on the new actuator.

You then have to push and push this whole thing towards the outside wall of the door which doesn't go too easily. On my passenger side i resorted to a long slot screwdriver to use as a lever to help slide the thing forward because it didn't want to budge.

The good thing though is that the new ones slide right into place easily.

* Another thing, the pin on the actuator that moves the lock-rod just sits inside the lock-rod, there is no mechanical attachment and it fairly loose so no need to worry about that part of it. ----

# Remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove

# Remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel

# Pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom (may need to start with door half open then close fully to remove). Lift up and off the door

# Peel back the door insulation by working gently at edges

# Remove 3 black screws from the face of the door latch mechanism

# Disconnect the controller arm at the top of the door latch mechanism that connects to the outside door handle. The plastic connector will push up from the metal arm after the locking tabs are pushed in

# Open the door half way and remove the 3 screws from the side of the door around the door latch

# The door latch mechanism is now able to be removed out from the inside of the door. The black wire cables may need to be removed from some of the retaining clamps

# The lock actuator can be removed. The actuator body will twist out of the spring clamp. Then the bar at the end of the actuator can be removed by turning

Another Procedure Write-up

For a 2001 SEL, which likely applies to all 1999-2003 models:

Some of the other procedures here attempt to not have to remove the latch & lock assembly. I found it immensely easier to get the assembly loosened to the point where I could see the backside where the actuator slides into the assembly. The adds a couple of extra steps, but, it was less frustratingthan trying to work blind in the corner of the inside of the door.

• Tools needed:
• • 7mm or 9/32 socket with 6" extension
  • 11mm socket
  • Small to medium prying tools. I use a $3 set of nylon ones from Harbor Freight
  • Razor blade / knife
  • T30 star fastener bit - for the door latch to door fasteners
  • Magnetic tray to help avoid losing parts & screws
  • Flashlight if your eyes are 2 days past "middle-age"
• Remove two (2) 7mm screws at the bottom corners of the door panel
• Remove two (2) 7mm screws just below the pull-handle - actually they just stayed in the deep access holes and didn't come out
• Remove the black triangle cover at the top front corner

  NOTE: there is a friction-clip near the top of the triangle. Pry/pull at the top to release and then lift up & away. Don't pry at the bottom like I did, or you'll just break-off the internal clip. No real harm as the cover is pretty sturdy even without it

• Remove the now-visible 7mm screw from the top front corner of the panel
• Remove the clip-in cover behind the door handle

  NOTE: the friction-clip is at the front of the cover. Pry it up a bit and pull the cover towards the front of the door to clear the other hooks

• The panel will now lift-up and away from the door. There are NO friction-clips so don't waste your time prying the panel away, just lift
• Release two (2) wiring connectors at the topside of the panel - push-in clips to release the connector
• Optional: If your door has the courtesy light, turn the light socket counter-clockwise to release from the panel. Whew! The door panel is now free of the door
• The foam cover is lightly glued to the door - gently pull it away. The razor blade/knife will help you keep from tearing the material

  Inside the door

• There are 2 wiring connectors, only 1 of which goes to the door lock. I released the bottom connector earlier-on, and the other one was easier to release after the assembly is loose
• Remove three (3) 11mm nuts that hold the exterior door handle cover
• Try and wriggle the door handle to slide it off the top of the connector rod. There's a 90 degree turn to get through, but it should slide & wriggle past it and off the rod
• Release the inside door handle cable from the nylon holder-clip. Just provides more wriggle-room
• Remove the three (3) T30 mounting screws from the door latch on the end of the door
• With the entire assembly loose inside the door, you should be able to turn and wriggle it around the internal window support and get it out to the largest opening in the door to work on it

  NOTE: the interior door handle cable, exterior door handle connector rod, doorlock manual operation rod and maybe even the second wire connector are still hooked onto the assembly - but there's enough play to get the assembly out to the opening for clear access

• The actuator itself slides on/off the assembly from the outside side of the door. Take note of the retainer-clip on the new one, and then spot it on the old one - press it in and push / slide the actuator off the assembly

Overall, not a bad job and I wouldn't hesitate to do the next one.

Almost forgot to tell you where I bought my part.Autozone wanted $70-100, and one of the local salvage yards priced a used one at $30. I bought a brand new one from RockAuto.com for $32 plus $3 shipping.

Be sure to review all the various procedure write-ups in this WikiAnswer and you'll find it pretty easy to stop having to reach across the seats to unlock the darned door for your wife!

One last thing: if this write-up helps you out, please hit the Contributor Trust & Question Popularity links below - I appreciate it and good luck!

---- I just replaced my drivers door actuator - it takes some time and patience. I would suggest that you go to a wrecker and get some "practice". Much more cost effective as well! I have a pull-a-part wrecker with a good selection of Windstars. Door panel off - take it easy on the power accessory/speaker harnesses. Have a good look at the lock configuration - connections from inside handle, outside handle, lock and actuator piston. Start removing clips and wires. You may have to unscrew exterior handle/molding to get some give on the interior - you will be working through cutouts in the door. Good idea to take a quick photo before you start. Good luck.....

If your Tempo is a 2.3 litre. I believe the gap is.54.