Ford Windstar LX

If the tensioner cannot put a full 'load' on a new belt (as shown by the wear indicator markings on the side of the tensioner) - it's likely the tensioner requires replacing.

NOTE: some sources recommend replacing it at 60,000

A bad pulley (bearing) would be making whining/screaming noises.

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The upstream o/2 sensor is located in the exhaust system between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. Some vehicles will have 2 upstream sensors (i.e. 1999 Chevy astro 4.3l engine has sensor for left exhaust manifold and another for right exhaust manifold). I am trying to find out for sure if you have to replace both when one goes bad. Bosch says both must be replaced!!!???

Oh yeah it(they)are easy enough to replace if you can see it (them).

The wipers and power windows are separate fuse circuits.

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Check the Vehicle Emission Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the

front of the engine compartment ( it will show what type of spark plugs to

use and the spark plug gap )

inside the center console there is a little plastic plug on the side closest to e brake. take out the plastic cap and there is a nut in there. tighten that

Check the fuse for the wipers and replace the turn signal bulb.

The gap is different for each type of ignition system being used. The old points-type distributors worked fine with .035". HEI needed more, up to .060" depending on the year.

You can usually find this info on auto parts stores websites if you know the year of your ignition system.

you have a neutral safety switch on the auto trans so it will only start in P or N you need to find out which of the 2 wires they are and tie them together and it should crank or you can make it a push button start

Means there is something wrong with your transmission. Need to hook up to a computer & get the code normally but can be external damage also. My 97 F150 did that when the transmission mount broke.

5W-30 , according to the Owner Guide

The timing is set by the computer. It calculates the advance based on the Crank Position Sensor. There is a TDC indicator. Some are on the flywheel and others on the front crank dampner. The ones on the flywheel usually have the CP Sensor on the top of the bellhousing.

Check a sticker under your hood or a "Haynes Manual"

I just changed mine and the sticker on the hood says .052 to .056 and the guy at the parts store said shoot for .054

.054

Try the jukyard

tighten up nut,and back it off 2 turns- should be able to get a bit of motion if you push and pull,be sure to pack bearings with proper grease

Gap should be .060 for most but it really depends on the plug you get. Check it out
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where is air flow relay on 2000 ford windstar

It's located on a vertical aluminum tube on the firewall. Between the junction of two lines.

on 2000 2003 model it is under the bonnet left side against the wing has yellow top

the seat has a metal carriage or tray that houses the gear tracks and motor, and an internal frame that bolts down onto it from inside the upholstery. with the tracks sitting over the bolts that mount the entire seat to the floor of the van, you cannot remove the seat the usual way. Removing the seat is done by finding the four corner bolts that attach the tray to the seat's internal frame, and un-doing those. The seat will now lift off the tray, but is still attached by wires, so be careful about moving it around, and be gentle with the wire connecting plugs. They will be brittle and easy to break. (WD-40 will lubricate a plastic plug and does not conduct electricity). Whether you disconnect the seat or not, the next thing is to move the track. the drive motor is bolted onto the side of the track, with the pinion gear pushing into the side, engaging its teeth with the track teeth. To move the tray forward or back, you un dolt the drive motor from the side plate and pull out on it to get the drive pinion gear out of the track teeth, ON BOTH SIDES. now you can slide the track and reassemble the whole thing, or play with the motor until you find the problem. The motor, and its control relay, and even the command switch are ALL perfectly interchangeable with the other seat. If you take apart the other seat, you can swap parts between seats till the dead seat moves again, and replace whatever was bad. Look for broken wires, that is the usual cause. A used TRAY, motors and all, from a salvage yard will cost about $100 to $200 (any more than that is a rip-off), will bolt right in, and problem gone. Rotsa Ruck!

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I had the same problem with my 2001, the seat would slide to de back, up and down but it wouldn't move to the front, I replaced the switch, and problem solved, check the switch on your seat it might be bad, it cost about $35.00 instead of 100 or 200, GOOD LUCK

For vans without the driver's side sliding door, begin by removing the middle row seating. Then starting behind the driver's seat and working towards the rear of the vehicle remove the side wall panels. Watch out for the "christmas trees" or plastic push in retainers behind the panels and hidden screws (screws that the upholstry has covered over) usually along the bottom of the panels just above the floor. Then it is just a matter of removing the 8-10, 10mm nuts that hold the window to the body. Window and frame are permanently bonded together and come off as one unit. While access is provided, now is a good time to clean and inspect rear a/c unit (if installed). To re-install reverse the above procedure.

v-6 located between the center firewall and on the top rear of engine. has one wire connector on it. In the exhaust header between the engine and the radiator. Couldn't be easier to find and work on.

the starter, the starter solenoid only supplies power to the starter.. if accessable try to tap on the starter with a hammer with moderate force this will some times cause the internal workings to rotate slightly allowing the starter to turn over.. This also sounds like a dead battery. Usually when your battery dies, all the more your hearing is your Solenoid clicking. If this is not the case, follow the directions above, i strongly agree. BUT.. it could also be a faulty solenoid, it will click, but will not push any power to the starter. If this continues, i would replace the solenoid first, being that it's more probable, and less expensive. If it actually is the starter, oh well.. you spent like 20.00 on a new solenoid (if even that much), and you know it will not go out on you in the future. You may also want to check your power cable leading to the starter to make sure there is no short(s) on it due to insulation being melted off or whatever.

Trouble code P0734 means:Gear 4 incorrect ratio