Ford Windstar LX

Try the jukyard

tighten up nut,and back it off 2 turns- should be able to get a bit of motion if you push and pull,be sure to pack bearings with proper grease

Gap should be .060 for most but it really depends on the plug you get. Check it out
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where is air flow relay on 2000 ford windstar

It's located on a vertical aluminum tube on the firewall. Between the junction of two lines.

on 2000 2003 model it is under the bonnet left side against the wing has yellow top

the seat has a metal carriage or tray that houses the gear tracks and motor, and an internal frame that bolts down onto it from inside the upholstery. with the tracks sitting over the bolts that mount the entire seat to the floor of the van, you cannot remove the seat the usual way. Removing the seat is done by finding the four corner bolts that attach the tray to the seat's internal frame, and un-doing those. The seat will now lift off the tray, but is still attached by wires, so be careful about moving it around, and be gentle with the wire connecting plugs. They will be brittle and easy to break. (WD-40 will lubricate a plastic plug and does not conduct electricity). Whether you disconnect the seat or not, the next thing is to move the track. the drive motor is bolted onto the side of the track, with the pinion gear pushing into the side, engaging its teeth with the track teeth. To move the tray forward or back, you un dolt the drive motor from the side plate and pull out on it to get the drive pinion gear out of the track teeth, ON BOTH SIDES. now you can slide the track and reassemble the whole thing, or play with the motor until you find the problem. The motor, and its control relay, and even the command switch are ALL perfectly interchangeable with the other seat. If you take apart the other seat, you can swap parts between seats till the dead seat moves again, and replace whatever was bad. Look for broken wires, that is the usual cause. A used TRAY, motors and all, from a salvage yard will cost about $100 to $200 (any more than that is a rip-off), will bolt right in, and problem gone. Rotsa Ruck!

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I had the same problem with my 2001, the seat would slide to de back, up and down but it wouldn't move to the front, I replaced the switch, and problem solved, check the switch on your seat it might be bad, it cost about $35.00 instead of 100 or 200, GOOD LUCK

For vans without the driver's side sliding door, begin by removing the middle row seating. Then starting behind the driver's seat and working towards the rear of the vehicle remove the side wall panels. Watch out for the "christmas trees" or plastic push in retainers behind the panels and hidden screws (screws that the upholstry has covered over) usually along the bottom of the panels just above the floor. Then it is just a matter of removing the 8-10, 10mm nuts that hold the window to the body. Window and frame are permanently bonded together and come off as one unit. While access is provided, now is a good time to clean and inspect rear a/c unit (if installed). To re-install reverse the above procedure.

v-6 located between the center firewall and on the top rear of engine. has one wire connector on it. In the exhaust header between the engine and the radiator. Couldn't be easier to find and work on.

the starter, the starter solenoid only supplies power to the starter.. if accessable try to tap on the starter with a hammer with moderate force this will some times cause the internal workings to rotate slightly allowing the starter to turn over.. This also sounds like a dead battery. Usually when your battery dies, all the more your hearing is your Solenoid clicking. If this is not the case, follow the directions above, i strongly agree. BUT.. it could also be a faulty solenoid, it will click, but will not push any power to the starter. If this continues, i would replace the solenoid first, being that it's more probable, and less expensive. If it actually is the starter, oh well.. you spent like 20.00 on a new solenoid (if even that much), and you know it will not go out on you in the future. You may also want to check your power cable leading to the starter to make sure there is no short(s) on it due to insulation being melted off or whatever.

Trouble code P0734 means:Gear 4 incorrect ratio

go on clubcivicquebec.com you gone a find for sure somebody that have the shop manuel (pdf)our a link for free manuel shop (hope you find it there)

Leaking, clogged, or incorrectly installed power steering hose; Leaking or damaged power steering pump (reservoir); Transmission fluid loss from leaking transmission seal (at firewall).

White exhaust Smoke could also be from: Worn or broken piston rings; Cracked or brittle valve stem seals allowing oil to enter combustion chamber; Rich fuel injector; Plugged or damaged pcv valve; Worn or scored cylinder block (engine); Worn or damaged piston; Worn valve guides.

Ford Windstar was created in 1994.

I believe it is .042 to .046 inch , but check your vehicle emission control information sticker in your engine compartment , somewhere ahead of your radiator or maybe on the fan shroud. (Helpfull)

Overdrive affects the transmission and is used only for highway travel speeds AND it effectively reduces the RPM (Revolutions per Minute) by making the transmission use 'higher' gearing and is supposed to increase MPG (eg., motor doesn't have to work as hard as normal setting and therefore reduces the 'load' on the motor) It should not be used for anything except highway travel/speeds as at lower speeds it will actually increase the 'work' the engine has to perform and return slower response and lower MPG. Many auto mfg's build in a RPM limit and the auto will not engage OD if the proper conditions are not reached. This info will be in the users manual or you can ask the dealer service dept mgr.

speed sensor is located on the drivers side of the transmission about 10-12' from the very rearmost point. it appears as a barrel or cylinder shaped object about 1 inch around and 1 1/2 inch long or so with 2 wires coming out and about a foot of wire before a plastic plug in connector. it is held in place by 1 bolt which uses a 10 mm socket to remove it

this opperation is quite simple. the sensor is located on the back of the throttle body. It is held on by two Torx type screws. T15 i believe is the correct size if i am not mistaken. It may be easier to access the unit by removing the throttle body itself. the throttle body is held on by two 13mm bolts. the entire process should take no more then 15 minuites.

My guess it you have a 4.3 motor. These were common for a poppit valve problem and replacement of the Fuel injector system (for lack of the real name). I usually refer to it as the octopus because of its shape. A pricey little animal. Should get it diagnosed to verify by a shop that knows their dirt.

The part you are looking for is a blend motor. It is made of plastic . The gears teeth are broken or missing. This part moves a flap from normal cold air to the heated air. Only get heat when blend motor is engaged.

It isn't under there, it is under the hood, next to the battery, where it says power distribution box

It is there indeed ya should notice it has a release on it that lets the fuse panel to drop down u may need a good flashlight for this. Take the access cover off an reach under the dash and release the clip system that lets it down. Easy easy easy

what does code p1537 on a ford mean

Modern engines no longer have a 'distributor'.

Engine spark/ignition is now controlled by the engine computer (Powertrain Computer Module - PCM), a smarter coilpack, and the camshaft position sensor (CPS).

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