Grand Prix GT

you need to fix whatever the problem is.

By the way I'm 11!

It is on the passenger side firewall at the bottom.

With the hood open remove the (2) two headlamp assembly bolts from the upper fascia support.

Slide the headlamp assembly outward enough to release the headlamp bracket tabs from the slots in the upper fascia support. (to release the tabs from the slots on the passenger side lens move the assembly to the left when facing the engine, and when doing the drivers side lens shift the assembly to the right )

Position the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle body to access the electrical connector.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp assembly.

Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle.

If you wish to change the halogen bulb:

Disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb/socket.

Remove the headlamp bulb/socket retainer ring from the headlamp, by turning counterclockwise.

Remove the headlamp bulb/socket from the headlamp assembly.

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"G"

These instructions are similar from around '96 to '03 grand prix model years all trim levels.

It can be the relay or fuse or the motor itself. It needs to be checked out by a knowledgeable person.

front side of plastic intake manifold

The solenoids are located in the upper housing of the transmission. to get to it, you will need to remove the air intake tube, along with air filter box. use a 10mm socket on the holding bolts. Becarefull of the wire connector for the "ambient air temp" sensor. Remove the battery hold down bracket, also 10mm, along with the battery (8mm). Remove the two 13mm bolts in the lower battery tray, and the 13mm bolt that is through the driver side wheel well into the lower part of the tray. Remove the engine computer from the tray (10mm) and set aside. Remove the battery tray completely to reveal the upper transmission housing. Remove the square wire connector (7mm) on the top of the transmission. Remove the outer cover bolts (8mm i belive) pry the cover off to reveal the valve body. Remove the 13 bolts in the valve body (fig1) and remove top cover of the valve body. with all the bolts removed you should beable to take the top cover off to reveal the black plastic circuit board in which the transmisison wireing harness plugs into. (fig 2) remove the board carefully and you will have access to the solenoids. The solenoids are labled for you in Fig 3.

The shift solenoids should OHM out at 4.5 Ohms, GM has made some changes according to Technical service bullitens. see Fig 4

When reassembling the valve body. be sure to tighten the cover bolts over the solenoids to 11nm or 8ft/lbs. any more and the solenoids can bind. If you replace the pressure solenoid, or are attempting to, you will need to reset the transmission solenoids with the Saturn Service Stall System.... of course only available if you take the car into the dealer ship.

Yes. It's located on bottom left side of air filter box.

Assuming you are referring to a stock 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, it does not have a turbo. The GT has a 3800 series V6. You might be thinking of the 2004 GTP or Comp-G models, which have Supercharged versions of the 3800. They only Grand Prix model I can think of that had a factory turbo was a limited edition model in the late '80's. However, I have heard of aftermarket applications available for turbos on the 2004 models.

I own an '04 GTP. A trusted mechanic friend told me that there should be a decal inside the panel door to the gas tank that indicates the car requires premium gas. Mine does not have this. I've continued to use premium gas anyway but with the astronomical cost of fuel I think I'm about to see if he's right.

Yes, you must use premium fuel due to the higher compression of the engine from having a supercharger. A decal on the panel door of the gas tank could have been taken off or fallen off. Do not rely on this. Your owner's manuel will tell you to use premium (91 octane or higher) in your vehicle. If you think the price of gas is too high in order to do so, you should not own this type of car.

While the above is good advice (not to trust the sticker on the fuel door) it is not 100% correct. I own a 2004 GTP Comp G and the 2004 model and above does not REQUIRE premium fuel, it says so right in the owners manual. If you use 87 oct fuel and you hear eninge knock I would switch to higher oct fuel. This is not true for 97-03 GTP's they require premium fel.

I put 89 in my 04 the other day because that's all they had. Ran fine.... I'm sure it wasn't making full power but no engine knock or any other problems came up.

The crank position sensor is behind the crank pulley. You need to remove the pulley, remove the plastic shield and remove two of the lower front cover bolts. Then you can remove the crank sensor. This proceedure is more complicated than it sounds. Check out the following website for a cam install and scroll down to where it talks about removing the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) http://www.mccgp.com/upgrades/caminstall/caminstall.php Hope this helps. "G"

you need the blaupunkt 'U' tool, which any car radio place or Holden service centre should have, if not, a simple coat hanger, bent into a u shape at the end will do, force this all the way to the end of the four holes in your stereo... each one should slide past a latch and make a clicking sound, as for taking it out, bend all of the wires away from the stereo (towards the doors) and slide the unit out at the same time... don't worry about doing it slowly or anything, the stereo will unplug its self from the mounted bracket behind it.

as for putting a new standard size DIN back in, some of the cables need to come out of the stock head unit, to allow the dash and steering wheel controls to continue working... not sure how this is done as im currently doing it my self...

hope this clears things up.a

200hp

4x6, just got mine installed yesterday. Same for front and back. 4x6, just got mine installed yesterday. Same for front and back. they are not 4x6 size speakers. if you are replacing the factory speakers with new or aftermarket the size is 5x7 or 6x8, either sizeshould work as both sizes come eith both mounting brackets to install

The Blower Motor Resistor Pack is defective. Replace it. Replace the resistor module for fan motor speeds. It's located under the dash on the passenger side behind the blower. Need to be a contortionist to change it (have to lay on back in floorboard with legs hanging out of the car....lots of fun *grin*) All it takes it a very small 7/32 socket (for back one recommend swivel socket). There are only 4 screws (3 on blower and 1 on resistor) that you need to remove. Part was less than $20 at local AZ. There are wires at a connector on the blower....trust me its easier to just snip them than to try to undo the connector. The new resistor comes with one anyway.

If you live near a vocational school or career center, you might check their Automotive department. They might be able to help you out for a donation to the class.

You can put controlling heat is so much harder. Usually on a high compression engine you want to run less boost. You can also get away with running more boost if you go with higher octane gas. This will help control heat and fight detonation. Thank you,

From www.SuperchargersOnline.com

You have to do a top swap, basicly find a L67 enging (GTP) or the following parts, (plus some custom electrical tuning.) -L67 idler pulleys, L67 idler stand off, L67 throttle body, L67 injectors, custom PCM, GTP balancer, L67 MAP sensor, L67 heads, L67 fuel rail, 2 head gaskets, head studs, MAP adaptor harness, bypass valve wiring, vacuum lines, brake booster line, supercharger gasket, throttle body gasket, lower intake gasket, lower intake Orings, supercharger belt, GTP valve covers, GTP valve cover gaskets, coil pack bracket for 99+ cars, M90 from an L67, lower intake from an L67, M90 bolts, and new rocker bolts. You'll also need a torque wrench, 3800 balancer pulley, and very powerful airgun to remove the crank bolt. Or go with ZZP's install kit, in which all you need is a lower intake mainfold, supercharger, pulley, cam, fule logs, all from zzp and custom made... ported and polished 2, though the original top sway is still cheaper and the ZZP kit is slightly more limited...

I think its both .. I have a 2 way remote starter.. and a 2001 grand prix se and i can tell you #$%@ its a $#@^$ if the remote starter works the key dosent and vise verse.. I was told for the key if it dosent work (factory key) unlock and lock the driver and passenger door a couple times that should enable it.. as for the remote starter well I got a viper 2 way (think its viper) and it bunked out again on me today for the 4th time... on the 3rd time it blue my starter (kepr trying to start me car when it was allready running..<--- that was a blast noone belives me...

If there is a block heater installed then there should be a plug at the hood/lights or bottom of engine.

Pull the ECM fuse or the injector fuse , or you can pull the fuel pump relay out of it .... all will keep it from starting

Usually the fuel pump screen is blocked with debris in tank, or is not operating at all or at the proper pressure. Be careful checking fuel line pressure, suggest that a trained mechanic with fire extinguisher handy do the test, due to the real fire hazard. Next might be fuel pressure regulator or surge control in fuel rails. Could also be burned out circuit in ECU.

Just go to a parking lot on a rainy day go above about 40 and slam on the brakes. If you skid you dont have antilock brakes, if you hear that grinding noise that kinda skips and you slow down but dont slid you do.

Low pressure hose follow- larger hose from a/c compressor In front of the firewall. Passenger side. Cap is blue (likely under the dirt) Hint: Do this when your engine is cold or you'll likely burn yourself since it's low down

take the front motor bone mounts should have 4 bolt per mounttake fans off then remove the trans lines then remove the both hoses

This website has one. http://www.devicemanuals.com/guide/Automobile/Pontiac/Pontiac-Grand-Prix-Owner%27s-Manual-1998-==TVRFd01qSXc=.html