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Honda Civic EX
The EX is a rebadged sixth-generation model of the Honda Civic. Available as a sedan or coupe, it features a remote entry system, high-horsepower VTEC engine, power sunroof, body-colored side mirrors and side moldings.
3,295 Questions
How do you change the speakers on a 2001 Honda Civic?
The coupe's have 6.5 in the door and 6 x 9 in the rear. The sedans have 6.5's all around. The front are not to bad. This is for a 2001 Civic DX Sedan. You will need a multi unit screwdriver, removal tool (I used a thin butter knife and it worked just fine) but a real one would be much better, it is for prying the plastic pieces off without damaging them. You could also use a screwdriver but you would probably damage them. You will also need a drill unless you find a good 6 in. speaker to fit factory bracket but good luck. I used a 6.5 inch that came with an adaptor. Pry open the little "hatch" behind the door opener and take out the two screws there (they should be magnetic screws), then take out the door opener assembly as far as you can. Slide the clip on the metal rod to the side and then you can remove the assembly from the metal rod. Pry off the small metal clip from the inside of the window winder. I found it easiest to use a coathanger with a very small bend at the end. Get it hooked in and pull making sure to watch if it flies somewhere. Pull the handle off and re-attach the clip so you don't lose it. I found that the first time I did this it was the hardest part of the whole installation as hooking that clip can be very frustrating.
Pry off the bottom/front part of the door handle and you will see two recessed screws (NOT the plainly visable ones, leave those alone), take those out. You can then start prying around the edge of the door panel. There are seven clips you need to pry out. I found it easier to start at the bottom. Once they were out then I lifted up and away from the front of the car to get the door panel off.
You should now have access to the speaker. Press down on the top of the bracket and pull out and the speaker should pop out. Put new speaker in and replace all parts in reverse order.
Note: It is a weird shape hole so if you can find a good speaker to fit the factory bracket then use that bracket, the factory speaker is a 6 inch not 6.5 and you can use 6.5's you just need some modifications. I bought 6.5 in good speakers that came with a bracket adaptor and wire harness. I just clipped the harness to the factory one (no cutting/soldering/taping). Attach bracket to speaker, drill new holes and attach.
2nd note: You have to get a shallow mount speaker or it won't fit. I went to a well know company online and bought the speakers and it came with the harness/adaptor and step by step instructions. (crutchfield)
REAR SPEAKERS:
LOOK IT UP AS IT IS A REAL PAIN, YOU CANNOT GO IN BY THE TRUNK. YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE REAR SEAT OUT AND THE BACK PANEL OUT TO ACCESS THE SPEAKERS.
How do you replace alternator belt on '91 Honda Civic?
The answer for this question is very similar to the question for replacing the alternator. It can also be used to understand how to replace the power steering belt and the a/c compressor belt (as their removal is necessary for replacing the inmost belt- the alternator belt). This answer assumes that you understand basic terminology and have an appropriate selection of tools (metric sockets and combination wrenches, screwdrivers, lug wrench, jack and stand, etc) and replacement parts (i.e. the new belt). Consider having a replacement power steering belt and a/c compressor belt on hand if the old ones need replacing when you inspect them- it's easy to do at this point and hard later. 1. Using a frame mount jack point and jackstand (for safety), remove the driver's side wheel. 2. Remove the plastic fairing at the front end of the wheel well by unscrewing the plastic screws *Note, for the next steps, you need to understand that the devices that run off belts from the crankshaft pulley use a common method for mounting- the whole device is mounted at 2 points- a pivot point along the back that allows the whole device to arc up and down- to loosen or tighten the belt- and a clamp nut on a curving slide point. Think like an old style circle drawing compass- the hinge at the top is the main mount point and the curving slide point is a "clamp" to keep the arc the same (and keep the belt tight). 3. Find the pivot nut and "adjustment slide clamping nut" for the top front device (I think it's the power steering booster). The pivot nut is on the outboard side of the device and the adjustment slide bolt is on the inboard side just below it. I think they are both 12mm. Loosen them to "finger loose" but don't remove them. The device should tilt down and the belt should slip off easily. 4. Find the pivot nut and slide clamp nut for the alternator and loosen them to finger tight. I think they're both 12mm too. 5. Crawl under the car and loosen the pivot nut for the adjustable idler that holds the power steering belt tight. It's up in the middle in between the crankshaft pulley and the compressor. The compressor is not movable, but the idler is. 6. This is important! Loosen the clamp nut (14mm) for the idler- it is the nut on the idler pulley. It's difficult to loosen without a long box end wrench, but it can be done with a short wrench and a breaker bar. It's too close to the side to fit a socket wrench in there. Then, climb out from under the car. 7. Using 10mm socket and long extension, turn the idler tension screw (you'll see its head just aft of the power steering booster) to loosen the a/c compresser belt. I'm pretty sure you turn it counterclockwise to loosen, but check to see if the belt is getting looser, and if not, go the other way. Leave it there on the nut if you can, you'll need it to replace the belt. 8. Crawl under the car and slip off the A/C compressor belt and the alternator belt. Crawl out and inspect all belts carefully for unusual wear or cracks. Replace a suspicious belt if in doubt- they're cheap and now's the time to do it. 9. Loop the new alternator belt over the alternator pulley and the power steering belt over its pulley. 10. Grab the A/C compressor belt and go back under the car. Position the alternator belt FIRST- important! It rides at the inmost point of the crankshaft pulley. Make sure it's aligned well or your belt will get chewed up. 11. Position the a/c compressor belt- loop it over the idler, then the compressor pulley, last over the crankshaft pulley. 12. Slip the power steering booster belt over the crankshaft pulley LAST. 13. Get out from under the car. At the back of the compartment, tension the alternator belt using a prybar or heavy screwdriver to pull the alternator away from the block. It doesn't take too much force. Use a good heavy piece of the alternator and block for this- if you guess wrong and break your alternator it's back to the store. Tighten the clamp nut (12mm) moderately. Check the tension by pressing moderately on the belt- it should have about 1/2" of "give" at the center of the span. Too tight and it will wear prematurely, too loose and it will squeal. Check an appropriate shop manual for exact specs. Once you have the belt tension right, tighten the clamp nut 1st, then the pivot nut. Check the position of the belt on the pulleys carefully to make sure the alignment is good after tightening. 14. Do the same with the power steering booster belt. 15. Use the 10mm socket + extension you left in place and turn clockwise to tighten the a/c compressor belt by moving the idler. Once tension is set, tighten the clamp bolt (14mm) on the idler pulley. Remove your 10mm socket and extension. 16. Make one last inspection of the belts and pulleys. Remove any tools in the engine compartment. 17. If your jackstand is pretty sturdy, you can crank over the engine at this point to see how the belts run. It won't hurt the engine to run with no driver's side wheel. If your belts look like they're running smoothly and not making any odd noises, you're in business! Turn off the engine when you're done making the check. 18. Replace the plastic fairing in the wheel well. 19. Replace the wheel and tighten the lugnuts "mostly tight". 20. Remove your jackstand and any other tools under the car. Lower the car and tighten the lugnuts all the rest of the way. 21. Close the hood and pat yourself on the back. You've just done a $100 repair!
How do you set the clock for a sony cdx-l410x?
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/158958/Sony-Cdx-L410x-Operating-Instructions.html?page=8
How do you change the headlight bulb on a 1997 Honda Civic?
Open the hood - THen look at the back of the headlights. There you will see the wires and connector that go into the assembly where the light is stored.
You will have to disconnect the rectangular piece by squeezing the sides and pulling. Next take off the rubber sealing ring. Simply pull it out. Nest you will see a metal wire. You will have to push on the right side of it (viewed from the rear of the car) and up to pop the spring out and allolw the bulb old bulb to come out. You may need to twist he bulb for it to come out. Next put the old bulb in. Swing the wire spring back into place the way it was. Put on the rubber sealant ring, and then the plastic rectangular connector with the three prongs will fit back onto the bulb back.
Wear gloves when placing the new bulb in as the oils in your hand can shorten the life of the new bulb QUICKLY.
It was a coil pack.
How to remove Front door speaker for 2008 Honda civic?
The speaker covers should pop right off (with maybe a little CAREFUL help of a flathead screw driver). Then the speaker itself will be held into the door with three or four screws.. Take the screws out, pull the speaker out a little and unplug the speaker wire. HTH, Chuck
Could be rear engine seal also You might want to check the oil pan gasket or oil filter leak. Also check valve cover gasket(s). Might fix problem?
How do you replace the air filter located on a Honda Civic EX?
Maybe Chris adds worthless answers to enhance his frequency ranking within the FAQfarm editors list. By adding his worthless answers, Chris denigrates his own creation. I hate to see a worthwhile forum polluted by worthless answers.
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#3
(02 civic air filter, broken screws)
First of all, you may notice that some of the screws are spinning with broken bolt holders. If this is the case then you won't be able to open the top of the air filter case. I've read a few theories about why the screws are freely spinning but the best explanation I heard from a mechanic is that Honda dealer mechanic probably over torqued it with an air tool. Anyway, if this is the case then you will have to carefully break the top or bottom screw holders to undo the screws. I would rather break the bottom because that is where things are broken. You can buy a bottom for $90 or so. Once you get the top off one way or another then replacing the filter is pretty easy. Life the old and drop a new one then tighten the screws. But if you had to replace the bottom case then undo 3 screws that hold the case to the car then carefully remove the whole case - there are 4 connecting points, one where air comes in, one where air feeds into the engine and one plug type thing that looks to be an air flow monitor, and lastly one rubber pipe that is about 3/4 inch thick, not sure what this is but this is held by a clip. You will also need to release the tightening ring (?) from the pipe that feeds air into the engine (about 3" thick). After all these steps the case should life out. Replace the bottom with a new one then reverse the steps to put the case back in to its place. The whole thing took me about 30 mins ... a real mechanic can probably do this in 10 mins.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!!
Good luck.
How about on a 2004 Honda Civic?
I have a 2004 Honda Civic with only 2 bolts/screws. The screws come out cleanly with a 10mm socket. However, the top of the housing will not lift off. I could pry but am afraid I may break something. Are there snaps inside that will release if I pry?
Thank you
I have heard a few different things mentioned. Check on lexusownersclub and post it in the LS400/430 catagory. A very good specialty site. vbd
The bulb has two filaments in it. 1. The parking light filament might be burned out. 2. The ground connection to the bulb might be bad (corroded socket?). This will make that signal light flash oppositely to the other signals when the headlights are on.
What makes the d light stay flashing in any gear on a 1999 Honda civic ex?
because it is broken and this is how your car talks to you....
Answers.com is Freaking USELESS !!
What is the right tire pressure for a 2008 Honda Civic VTI-L?
The correct pressure is listed in your owner's manual and on the drivers door post.
How do you put the window back on track for a 1999 Honda Civic EX?
K, just had this problem, seems as though alot of others do as well. The glass run channel (Rubber that goes around the window) stops sliding like its supposed to (and as far as i tried no type of lube rectified the situation). The channels are like 8o bucks a piece at the Honda shop (not sure bout aftermarket), both of my widows were screwy so it was time to take care of it. So once you have the new glass run channel pull off the door panel (not hard to do, Google it.. cant really remember, think you just pull and theres some snaps), unbolt the 2 bolts on the window through the door at the bottom. As its already off track it shouldn't be hard to slide up andout the door. then set aside and pull crappy run channel out, and replace with new one. When you start to install new channel make sure you start at the TOP corner (not the curve but down by the side mirror) CLOSEST to engine or else it wont fit right is what i seem to have found out. I used a skinny plastic ruler duct taped to make it soft as to not rip the rubber to push the channel inside the groove. (not recommeneded but it worked). When installing the window back in try to have 2 people (one holds while other moves around till person holding say its good) so you can tighten it down in the middle of the channels to the left and right. I also slid alittle lube in the channel where the wheels roll left and right as the window goes up and down while i was in there.
this is all from a non mechanic who happened to have the same prob and just fixed it last month and all is perfect. Check out this website for a reference to a TSB issued and if your nice and smile or a very loyal Honda garage user you may get IT, aaaaand installed for free... who knows, its alwasy worth a shot.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl068d.htm
What would cause a random misfire on 1 and 2 cylinders of a 1999 Toyota Corolla?
bad spark plugs or bad wire connection to the spark plug
Why won't a cooling fan turn on 1996 Honda Civic?
There could be 3 or 4 reasons for this...
First, check the simplest thing, the fuse. Next, check for a faulty fan thermostat or damaged wiring to the fan. Lastly, it's possible the fan motor itself is faulty.
i come to find that if your Honda civic has a coolant leak and runs hot...... your thermostat will be stuck in the closed position and wont allow the coolant fan to come on
What are the rear right and rear left positive and negative speaker wire colors for a 2008 civic?
The red wire and terminal on a 2008 Honda Civic are the positive wires for the battery. The black wires and terminal is the negative battery cable.
How do you fix a sticking heat flap on a 1996 GMC Safari?
Most likely this is due to a broken vacuum line under the hood. Probably not a rubber hose, but a plastic tube that had dried out and cracked. Mine just crumbled apart and I replaced it all with a hose.
Why would antifreeze leak out from the side of your engine?
cracked head. or call a repair shop. theyll tell you
check the casting plugs they could be rusted out if your car is old
They help with situations where you are trying to fit unusual or tight applications.
How do you replace trailing arm bushings for 2000 civic ex coupe MT?
answer
remove the rear wheel ok remove the 2 bolts of bushings left side bottom middle before the end next jack the bottom of the wheel then remove the lower arm 1 bolt behind the wheel on the bottom,remove the 2 bolts on the top by the wall then lower the wheel and pull the bushings,thats it,installation put the new bushings by hand if not push it with the hammer alittle by littleuntil it fit,remember to marks the old bushings before you remove them then mark the new ones with white out,then just put it back then your done,hopw this helps!
answer
get some genuine bushings and goodluck,remove the wheel jack the wheel just exactly carry no jack up or down,unbolt the the lower arm from the wheel,the reason you jack it so that it wont jump and the bolt will not fly.make sure do this with impact 12v or air,or else you might have some broken bolt that will be a big problem with impact wrench bolts works nicely.once you onblot the lower arm lower the jack so that the lower arm will be release then jack the wheel unbolt the upper control arm on top unbolt the trailing arm bushings 2 bolts,unbolt the last bushings bolt towards to the car there is a swing unbolt the very last bolt, then pull that bushing down from bracket,then lower the trailing arm until you see the bushings then you need this tool Bushing Extractor for Honda & Acura Schley 65100 its $160 online,OK YOU HAVE AN OPTION IF YOU HAVE THE BUSHINGS BUY IT ONLINE THEY ARE CHEAPER,CHECK LOCAL SHOPS,THEY CAHRGE AROUND $250 LABOR,SO IF YOU DO IT IT SAVES YOU $90
answer
OR GO TO YOUR NEAREST SHOPS THAT EXPERIENCE & SPECIALICE FOR YOUR CAR
AND ASE CERTIFIED,ITS AROUND $250.00 LABOR IF YOU BUY THE PARTS.THEY WILL BE PERFECTLY INSTALLED AND LAST LONGER.
