Honda Passport

There are four O2 sensors on a 1998 Honda Passport, so when you have it put on a computer and it shows up "O2 Sensor" make sure to get more info such as Right bank, Left bank, etc, or it will be just a shot in the dark which one is bad. They are pretty easy to find just follow your exhaust system out from the engine.

First of all its "catalytic converter" and it is on the engine side of the muffler.

underneath engine on drivers side, mounted on transmission.

Any scanner with an OBDII hook-up will work on this vehicle. If you can turn the key over and the dash lights up and you have power it will read fault codes.

Just went rounds looking for this info. Found the answer going to my favorite parts store and looking for "what tool" to change the belt. Turns out the auto-tensioner has a bolt in the center of the pulley. Use either a wrench or (preferably) borrow the proper tool which is just a wrench on a nice leverage bar. When you put pressure the tensioner pulley arm will swing and give you room to remove and replace the belt. Just don't be afraid of loosening the pulley (that was my fear) and don't try a hex wrench on the engine mount side of the tensioner arm. (laugh now) Have a nice day.

Straight back from the radiator cap, you'll see where the large tube from the air filter enters the throttle body, top front center of the engine. The throttle position sensor is bolted to the right side of the throttle body where this air feed attaches. There's a set of wires plugged into it at the top. The throttle position sensor is a smallish (1 1/4" x 2 1/2"?) plastic component and is attached with two Torx head bolts, size T25.

To get at these, you'll need to unclip the plug that goes into the TPS as well as the two other plugs on the same bundle of wires. This comes from the right; the first plug on the line clips onto the air mass sensor (in the tube from the air cleaner), the second goes to the throttle position sensor, and the last one crosses the front of the throttle body and plugs into a sensor on the other side. Unclip all three and bend the wire back out of the way to the right so you can get at the two bolts from the right side. One is on the front side of the TPS, the other is on the bottom.

'98 - '02 Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper and Honda Passport (with factory keyless entry) Instructions for programming 1. Get in car and make sure all doors are unlocked, and close all doors. 2. Open driver's door and leave open. 3. Put key in ignition. 4. Turn key from OFF/LOCK to ACC and back to OFF/LOCK 3 times in one second intervals. 5. Close and open driver's door 2 times in one second intervals (the door pin switch may be toggled 2 times instead.) 6. Turn key from OFF to ACC and back to OFF 5 times in one second intervals. 7. Close and open driver's door once (or toggle the door pin swith once) and the doors should lock and unlock twice 8. Push the lock button on the first remote you want to program and the doors will lock and unlock. Push the lock button a second time and doors will lock and unlock again. And then you are finished! The above sequence erases all previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote, you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of turning the key to the ACC and back to the OFF 5 times in 5 seconds, do it 3 times in 3 seconds and then continue to step 7. If you use the toggle on the door instead of opening it and closing it, you can put your left hand on that toggle and your right hand on the key, which will help you with the speed at which this sequence needs to be completed. Also, practice a few times and remember 3 - 2 - 5 - 1 for the first remote and 3 - 2 - 3 - 1 for the second, third, and fourth remotes. If you miss any steps, start from the beginning.

That information is posted on the vehicles door jamb area and in the drivers manual.

check valve train it can be loose or tooo tight

temp sensor on mine (1995, 3.2L V6) is on a pipe connecting the two cylinder heads

by the firewall. There are two sensors on this pipe, one takes a 3/4" or 18mm wrench, the other a 12mm or 1/2" . If you are using a socket you'll need a deep well

Approach from directly above, between heads and the firewall, a very tight sqeeze.

Tools you will need: ratchet/wrench for nuts

You MAY need the above tools for replacing the right headlight as the battery may be in the way. Otherwise, no tools are required to replace the bulbs. To do this begin by taking the battery out by removing the negative connection first and then the positive. Remove the handle on top that keeps the battery in place by unscrewing the right long screw and loosening the left screw. The left one does not need to come out all of the way but the right one will in order to remove the battery. Now the battery is removed.

Now that you have enough room for the right headlight you can begin the procedure. You will see a wire going to your headlight. This is a plug that plugs directly into your light bulb. Remove the plug by pulling the opposite direction the bulb is facing. Most cars have a plug that you pull DOWN to remove but this isn't the case for the Passport. Pull away from the light which should be the opposite direction the bulb is facing.

You will now see 3 prongs sticking out of the rubber gasket surrounding it. This rubber gasket can be removed by just pulling it out of the opening by pulling it the opposite direction again much like the light bulb plug. Note that the gasket may be difficult to pull out. Pull by the two rubber ends that you see on the rubber gasket and wiggle it out to where it is lossened. Eventually you will be able to take the whole gasket out.

With the gasket removed you can now see the whole light bulb within the headlight. The headlight is held in there with some kind of clip mechanism that "locks" within a hook. All you have to do is push the clip inward (toward the light bulb) and push it up. This clip should then open up like a door and your light bulb is ready for removal.

Removing the lightbulb is simple. Just pull it straight out. No twisting or turning or anything which is very common amongst other headlight fixtures (especially blinkers). Now put in your new bulbs and repeat the above steps in reverse order.

Repeat the same steps for the left headlight. The only difference is that you will not need to take out a battery, but the air filter valve is slightly in the way. It is possible to change the bulb without removing any of this stuff.

You have to service it from the fill plug on the transmission itself. You must therefore get underneath the vehicle and locate fill plug which is located on the transmission pan. There are usually two plugs. The drain plug which is the lowest one to the ground lets say. And the fill plug which is the higher one located in the indentation of the trans oil pan. Anyway that's how you check and fill the fluid..as far as changing the trans filter you have to remove all the transmission pan bolts and take pan off then take trans filter out if you need too due to dirtyness etc..and simply replace filter and fluid in reverse order..if you havent ever done any of this you might want some help the first time. Its messy but really easy..just do it and never overtighten your trans pan bolts when you put pan back on...also on the Isuzu and Honda passport the trans pan does not need silicon it is a self sealing gasket.. "usually". You can tell this by the pattern on the gasket it self..You will see what im talking about if you actually look at one..some people may dbate this but after doing 1000 of them mine never leak...hope this helps..good luck..and if you don't do it you wont learn...

On some 4WD models, the starter motor is caged in by part of the exhaust system. If the motor is truly caged and removing the exhaust is not a reasonable option, then there is an alternative--partially disassemble the starter motor and its replacement into 3 pieces each, shuttle the pieces out and into the "cage" and reassemble. There are some things to watch out for. For related information see http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=9161&highlight=starter This is from experience with a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L 4WD: Tools needed: * 14mm socket. Deep socket or a socket with an extender. * 9mm socket with a narrow body such as for 1/4" drives * 8mm socket with narrow body such as for 1/4" drive. * 12mm, 13mm sockets or wrenches for electrical components * Bailout items: Philips screwdriver, bailing wire * Remove the 2 bolts and 2 long screws from the starter housing. This may require a combination of 8mm and 9mm sockets. Partially disassemble the new unit into three pieces. Use care to not separate other subcomponents: # Point the Pinon gear downward and separate the gear housing from the solenoid housing. This orientation will ensure that you don't spill out greased gears or the spring bearing. # Carefully separate the Solenoid housing from the motor housing. First remove the bolt that electrically connects the two parts. Next, carefully separate the two housing parts by pushing the protruding motor gear past the solenoid housing. The push action is intended to keep the motor shaft snug against its housing during the separation process. If the shaft comes too far out (1/2 inch on one model), the brushes will collapse inward and you'll have to resort to Plan B to reseat the shaft within the spring-loaded brushes. Plan B may required removing 2 screws from the end of the motor housing to get access to the (4) spring-loaded brushes. Press the shaft sideways against one set of brushes, then work the shaft onto the other brushes one at a time. Having disassembled, the new unit, you'll be prepared to disassemble the old unit within the cage. Disclaimer: read your manual for safety etc # Be sure the starter problem was correctly diagnosed and that this alternate approach is still preferred over removing the exhaust. These two extreme methods are for those cases when the opening appears to only allow something roughtly the size of a soda can to pass through. # Be sure the front of the car is safely raised. # Be sure the negative cable is disconnected from the battery. # Remove the 2 mounting bolts. # Remove the start terminal lead. This model clicked in/out of place. # Remove the positive cable from the starter. # Remove the 4 bolts that hold the housing together. # Point the pinon gear down if possible, then separate it from the rest of the housing. Remove this piece from the "cage" # Unbolt the electrical connection between the Solenoid portion and the motor portion. # Separate the solenoid housing from the starter motor housing by pushing the prutruding gear back past the solenoid housing. Ideally the motor shaft will stay with the motor housing, but if it separates, remove the shaft as a bonus part. Remove the two parts of the housing one at a time. If the motor shaft comes apart and it is needed for core charge or other reason, reassemble the shaft as in Plan B mentioned for the new unit. Assemble the new starter inside the "cage" # Insert the new solenoid portion into the "cage". Orient it so that it can receive the motor gear when the motor portion is inserted # Insert the motor portion into the cage, mating it snugly with the solenoid portion. The electrical wiring from the motor should be near its mating electrical post on the solenoid. Also see the potential alternative ordering mentioned below. # Consider temporarily looping a wire snugly around these two piece to ensure the motor shaft remains seated until the third piece finally bolts in. # Orient the assembly in the cage so that it will receive the gear housing, and anticipate that the drain portion will eventually be pointing downward when the unit is fully assembled. # Hold the Solenoid assembly high in the cage while inserting the gearbox portion of the starter into the housing. Keep the pinon gear pointing somewhat downward so that the spring bearing etc stays in place. # Position the spring on the solenoids plunger and into the corresponding hole in the gearbox, then assemble the full starter, removing the temporary wiring, and bolting the housing together with all 4 bolts. # An alternative ordering might be to insert the solenoid, then the gearbox underneath it. These two parts can actually bolted together after you insert the spring. This would be a nice way to quickly minimize the number of unsecured parts. It's not clear if there would be sufficient room to insert the motor portion. # See if there are any parts that need to be transferred from the old starter to the new starter such as the guides that fit in the mounting holes between the car body and the starters body. # Reconnect the wiring between motor and solenoid, the start terminal lead, and the positive cable. # Remount the assembled starter in the cage, using any necessary guides in the mounting holes. # Reconnect the battery.

It is probably your fuel sending unit gone bad. Have seen multiple posts on this problem.

it may have somthing in gas line or your fuel pump may be going out

not certain, but would say one of 3 things. either there's water in the fuel. in which case, drain the tank. something other than oil was mixed with the fuel-drain the tank. or its running to rich, either lower the choke, or adjust down the carbuerator.

If it's a water-cooled tractor like a Honda it may have a coolant leak into the combustion chamber. Check the oil to see if it looks like a milkshake. If it does then the coolant has gotten into your oil.

Usually against the inner fender wall maybe behind the battery

4.5 quart with oil/filter change.

There is a plug on the passenger side of the transmission you take the plug off and stick your finger in and the fluid should be to the bottom of the hole where the plug came off. Make sure it is on the side of the transmission not the drain plug on the bottom. The plug should be a 17mm wrench

Its on the fuel rail passenger front. It looks like a small gold colored "Tea Candle" with a vacuume hose on top, and a larger fuel return line on the bottom. Its attached with 2 Phillips head screws and it has an O ring under it. There is a screen in there too.

You can Test it with a Fuel Pressure gauge.

Connect the gauge with a TEE where the fuel line ( rubber ) becomes a metal line on the top of the air intake. ( Passenger side near the back of the engine ) ( you need 1 TEE, a short piece of fuel line, the Gauge and 4 small hose clamps. ) Start the engine.

You should get about 35 psi on the gauge.

NOW disconnect the small vacuume line on the top of the fuel pump regulator, and your pressure should jump to about 44 PSI.

If it does, its working. That should save you about $ 80.00

You should feel vacuume on the line that you disconnected as well.

I hope that helps.

If you don't have 35 PSI, your fuel pump is bad in the tank, or a clogged filter or inlet screen in the tank.

Carl Stiles

Lift the front end and secure it on jackstands. Remove the front tires and place under the vehicles frame. Use a wrench or socket to remove the six bolts on the automatic hub locker. Use a small hose puller to remove c clip and the ring behind it inside the hub. Use a wrench or socket to remove brake caliper andcaliper mount. Remove remaining hub piecesand use a medium phillips head screwdriver to remove two to three small screws and then use your small hose puller to remove the bearing rataining ring. Use again your small hose puller to unscrew the remaining bearing retainer and theentire hub should slide out.

Where's the oil plug located

I personally had a problem with my sending unit and called a local Honda dealer who advised that the 2001 Passport has a 19.5 gallon tank

2000 Passport V6 3.2L

Wow. Where to begin on this one? I guess I'll start from the beginning and tell my tale of woe. Hopefully it will save someone else from the disaster I have encountered...

Okay, like many tens of thousands of Passport/Rodeo owners, my 'Check Engine' light came on a few months back coinciding with the phenomenon of my fuel gauge reading empty - or near empty - most of the time when the level was below 3/4 tank. I checked the error code and sure enough it was a fuel sending unit malfunction. I was told by the dealer that the only way to fix this issue was to replace the entire fuel pump assembly to the tune of $700 parts and labor. No thanks.

So, I did some research and found a guy on eBay (User Name awnicol25)who sold the fuel sending unit separate from the fuel pump assembly and GUARANTEED it would fix my problem. I think I gave $25 for it. Great. I'll swap it out one fine Saturday afternoon and that will be the end of it. Well, I get under the car and I get to looking and I say to myself "I don't want to dick with taking this tank off." Most things aren't a concern for me, but dropping the fuel tank is. I don't like the idea of dealing with gas in an unstable environment. I took my car down to a guy I know who works on Hondas and he says for $100 he'll replace the FSU for me. Awesome! $125 and I'm getting this fixed.

The sending unit sold by awnicol25 on eBay works great.

18 ft lbs