Mitsubishi Eclipse

9 psi is pushing the limit in a non-intercooled platform. 9psi is almost 3/4 of a whole extra atmosphere. that translates into almost 230 psi peak compression in a relatively large combtion chamber. its not as though you're dealing with too much piston compression but, the 5.3 is just a stroked version of the 4.8 vortec. my advice is always put the highest octane in your boost machine and invest in some head studs and full metallic gaskets and whatever you do, don't push 9psi until you can accomplish some sort of cooling. (I.E. intercooler or methanol/water injection) the problem you will run into is detonation. do yourself the favor. prepare your engine before you install/adjust boost. it may seem expensive but, i garauntee it'll be cheaper than a new engine in the long run. I'll give you this: you will be dealing with a torque monster so good luck and have fun burning tires

4.7 Quarts for Turbo 2.0L Engine.

4.6 Quarts for Non Turbo 2.0L Engine

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse: Your owner's manual is the best place to locate your fuse box(es) and identify your fuses. Don't rule out that your issue is being caused by a bad bulb too - so check fuses and bulbs. See sources and related links below for bulb information.

I meant to ask was the radio unlock code, after battery change

The red battery warning light is an indication the charging system is not charging. The red water level warning light is an indication additional water is needed.

Yes, but it is offset by the diuretic effect and the need to digest the carbohydrates. Drinking beer is not a substitute for drinking water.

i have a 2002 Eclipse RS 4cyl model and my dash lights havent worked in forever. i believe they went out when i had around 60k miles on the car. if you figure out why they arent working please email me and let me know also! my email address is GetEclipsed@aol.com

THE TIMING BELT IN A 2002 ECLIPSE 3.0L GT IS LOACTED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE BLACK PLASTIC GUARD'S TO REVEAL THE TIMING BELT AND CAM GEARS!

have the dealership take a look at it, tell you what the problem is! Once you know what the problem is go back to your cheaper mecanic and let him know what it is. Ask for a discount as he himself was unable to diagnose the problem,or considering in some states the dealership will charge a price just to check it out!! The trained tech at a Mitsubishi dealer/repair center will fix it right the first time..

On top of the engine block when you open the hood you will see black cords attached to your engine block you will need to give a good tug to expose the spark plugs. -Cody

The idle air control valve can be found under the throttle body.

In order to get to it:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove air intake from throttle body.

3. Disconnect throttle body cable.

4. Disconnect sensor connectors from IAC valve, and throttle position sensor.

5. Remove 4 bolts from throttle body using 10mm socket wrench.

6. Take throttle body, turn bottom side up, remove 4 mounting screws from IAC

Once you do that you have removed the IAC. Reverse the steps to put it back on starting at number 6 and working your way back to number one

IT starts @ the intake manifold & ends on the front axle.

It depends on how the car is driven. If the thing lives out of town, gets clean oil and is allowed to cool with the engine running, (necessary to keep oil flowing through the thing) after you've caned the daylights out of it, it will last pretty much forever- or at least the life of the car.

If it lives in town, gets driven by a granny (or grandad) and rarely gets good oil, then, as it sits in traffic, idling, with insufficient exhaust pressure to prevent oil seeping into the turbine housing, it will coke up. As the oil collects crap and swarf from the engine and gets progressively thinner, it will cause bearing and shaft wear and it's reduced viscosity will allow it to seep even more easily into the turbine. Then.......either the turbine will sieze causing catastophic damage to the turbo or if you're lucky the bearings will wear out and will require replacing. A cretin may manage to destroy a turbo through carelessness in 50,000 miles, a careful driver can make one last 200,000 miles or more.

Oil is critical, Always.

If you look near the fire wall (the metal under the hood latch) to the left youll see the belt. Well if you have a flash light available youll see the belt connected to a circle device with holes, inside the hole youll see a copper colored coil. that's your alternator

splice together both stripped wires for headlights and run your projector lights to your fog lights or park lights

* if you need help ask me and i can give you my help trust me i have been there and i can give you advice to help you and every thing will work out.

You may have to get it checked however, it could just be a short or loose wire.

The need for an intercooler is solely Dependant on the turbo blowers. As the blowers are pushing more air into the combustion chamber, the air becomes less dense as it becomes heated through the movement through the turbos. Intercoolers function to drop the temperature of incoming air into the turbos so that when the air is forced into the combustion chamber it is cooler and more dense, hence, creating a better situation for combustion. As the air is not being pumped into the combustion chamber and simply aspirating naturally, there is no need to cool the air before a heating cycle that isn't present in a non-turbo engine. Intercoolers, however, do look really awesome.

Im new to the eclipse game, but my eclipse had the same problem. Are you getting fire to the coil. If not check the sensor on the back of the motor under the intake, possibly the throttle position sensor, im not sure what the name is but it works, i promise.

The IAT sensor (Intake Air Temperature) is an integral part of the Mass Air Flow sensor.If the IAT sensor must be replaced,you must replace the MAF sensor

i had a quote for £300 with 12 month warrenty when i first baught my tf cos i knew it was innevitable it would go.the guy at the garage says he can do them in his sleep cos he has done so many in the past so i wouldn't pay no more than that

Hi, its just like any other or the kind you would use for fridges & frezzers. Its alot cheeper the go thru a company who dose fridge repair and so-forth, then to go to the dealership were you got the car. Dealerships can run from$200.00-$600.00, were as the fridge guys are at least half that, but still a spendy item to have done. Good luck!