Nissan Pathfinder

The 2001 Nissan Pathfinder has a 3.5 L base engine size.

Your Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) is faulty. Check with your local Nissan dealer.

You don't. Like many (perhaps most?) modern overhead-cam engines, the valves and lifters are "adjusted" hydraulically, by the engine oil. As long as there is always enough oil in the engine, you don't need to worry about valve adjustment.

If, by chance, you're asking because you are hearing what you think is valve noise, the first thing to do is check the oil. Saturn S-series cars are known to burn oil. A quart of consumption every 500 miles is not unusual. There are ways you can reduce the oil burning, but in the end, it has little to no effect on the car's performance (contrary to popular belief). Still, it's important to check your oil EVERY time you buy gas. Don't let it go more than about a quart low. That should keep the engine running quiet and smooth, and help it last a long time.

First you take the air induction vent off from over the radiator shroud. It just pops off from the shroud. Next you look down beside the radiator and you will see bolts that you have to take loose. The radiator shroud is a 2 piece shroud. Once you get the top shroud out you can take the idler pulley loose and take the serpentine belt loose and take the fan blade off. You will be surprised with the room in there once you get that out of the way. I changed mine in about an hour. While you have all that out checked your idler pulley tension because after i replaced the water pump the idler pulley went bad and i had to replaced the serpentine belt again.

I experienced the same phenomenon and discovered from extensive research of forums that the MAF sensor is well-known for failure and the symptom is stalling at low rpm's (below 1200). Mine would act up intermittently and I wasn't sure why the sensor wouldn't just fail altogether... (which made me think maybe it was a fuel filter problem or other...) then I discovered that a wire had been spliced onto the center wire entering the plug which plugs into the sensor. The stiff bead of solder had been flexing the strands of copper wire through normal engine vibration and torque and, over time, several strands had broken. If there had been 10-12 strands altogether, there were only 3 or so when I discovered it... and just a little fiddling around left the frayed and slightly corroded bit of wire in one hand and the plug with the other wires in the other.

It took some doing, but I eventually reattached the wire to the little scrap remaining and the stalling (which had forced me under the hood to begin with) stopped.

I don't know if this splice is a Nissan thing or if some "mechanic" felt it necessary to splice into the line so closely to the plug, but it can't hurt to check out the same on yours. If it's determined that your MAF is defective, I've heard they can be cleaned with contact cleaner (not brake or carb cleaner) before you drop the big bucks on a replacement (which is usually available every couple weeks on eBay). Also make sure your air filter is clean and your hoses aren't cracked. Clogged filter or unmetered air can cause issues as well.

PROBABLY ISNT MUCH DIFFERENT THEN A 1995. GET YOURSELF A LONG 15MM RENCH AND LOSEN THE TOP BOLT OF THE ALTERNATOR YOU CAN SEE IT RIGHT BEHIND THE TIMEING BELT COVER. NOW JACK UP THE CAR , REMOVE THE TIRE AND CRAWL UNDERNEATH. LOSEN UP THE BOLT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE ALTERNATOR. HERE COMES THE FUN PART. ON THE BACK PART OF THE TOP ALTERNATOR BRACKET IS A TENSIONING BOLT, AND IF DODGE HASNT CHANGED THE SIZE ITS A 13MM. YOU HAVE TO GET YOUR ARM BACK HEHIND THERE AND WITH A 13MM ON A RATCHET WRENCH LOSEN THE TENSIONER UNTIL YOU CAN PUSH THE ALTERNATOR FORWARD ENOUGH TO GET THE BELT OFF OF THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY. REPLACE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT OFF.

It is kind of out of the way. It should be under the steering wheel farther down.

Change your dimmer switch, it went out.the dimmer switch will allow your lights to work but cause problems with your high beam,also can cause your parking lights to short out. Change it asap

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Find cylinder # 1. Remove that spark plug. With a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer/crankshaft nut, slowly turn the engine until TWO (2) conditions occur simultaneously: 1) the timing mark is on TDC and, 2) #1 piston is at the top of its travel. Then rotate the distributor shaft to set the rotor to line up with the #1 terminal in the distributor cap, plus about 2 teeth counterclockwise. Then insert the distributor "jiggling" it to engage the teeth, until it fully seats. As the gears mesh, the rotor should rotate slightly so that when fully seated, the rotor will be centered below the #1 tower on the cap. If rotor is off slightly, make note of how far off it is, and pull distributor assembly just far enough out to disingage the teeth. Then rotate the shaft just the amount to match the amount it was off on the first try. Reseat the assembly and again check for proper position. Until you get the hang of it, it may take several attempts, but be patient, as you will get better at determining how much pre-rotation, and in which direction. Good luck. j3h.

Disconnect the negative cable. Drain the cooling system. Unbolt the power steering pump if necasary to gan access. Dissconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, and reservoir hose. If you have A/T lines dissconect them and cap them. After removing all of the retaining bolts, carefully lift the radiator from the brackets. Disconect the cooling fan connector. Remove the cooling assembly bolts. lift the fan assembly away from the radiator

take the belt off by using a 3/8 ratchet and by turning the water pump wheel you have 4 bolts too take off 10 mm ratchet and the water pump is off

Make sure you are sitting down when you find out.. its not fun! oh and make sure you have at least 8 maybe 10 hours of spare time. Make sure to have a mechanically inclined friend or know a mechanic before starting

Yes, you can. I just had one installed at mockey shorr.

You can manage to get to the passenger side but the driver's side is impossible to get to. You have to remove the headlight to get to the back.

1. Take off the side marker lights and pull them out so they're not overlapping the grill.

2. Remove the phillips screw below the headlight (holding the grill on) on each light.

3. On top of the grill, turn the square plastic retainers a little to the left and pull the grill off, one retainer at a time.

4.Remove the 3 headlight housing screws - not the adjustment screws - leave those alone.

5. Finally pull out the headlight, disconnect the electrical connector from the back and attach it to the new bulb.

You might as well replace all the bulbs while you have it apart. Put it all back in the opposite order.

Una cuerda es 3930 metros cuadrados.

According to the Owners manual, for a 2000 Accord LX, (2001?),page 84-86. You must have a garage door remote control! Press the desired key to use on the Honda panel and the remote key. The Honda panel red light will begin to flash slowly at first, then rapidly. The key code should now be learned by the Honda transmitter, and open/close the door.

To expand on this you can hold the first and third buttons on the HomeLink transmitter for your car to erase any old codes that are stored in the transmitter. Hold the first and third buttons for at least thirty seconds, or until the LED light in the HomeLink symbol stops flashing and stays on solid. You can find out more for your particular model and year of car on the HomeLink website located here: http://www.homelink.com/programming/programming.taf

The quick, dirty, and cheap answer is tighten your gas cap until it clicks at least 5 times. With in one or two days the vacuum in the gas tank will build up and reset the code. The not so cheap answer is take it to a dealer with a blank check, he'll tighten your gas cap and charge you $150. Or you can buy an OBDII Code reader or better a decoder that hooks to your car's computer and reads out your engine diagnostics real time. OBDII stands for OnBoard Diagnostics level 2 and replaced the older OBD1 around 1996. It tracks hundreds of items such as ignition timing, fuel trim and pressure, the number of times your Oxygen Sensor transitions from rich to lean(I got that one)and a list longer than your arm, including loose gas caps. It's a phenominal system which can even tell the police how fast you were going and if you applied the breaks before you plowed through the front window of that car dealership you love so well. The real problem with this system is that there is no way for it to tell you whats on its mind without an expensive interface that the dealer has. Until now that is. Take a look at http://www.scantool.net/, they sell a low cost OBDII decoder which will read the codes, reset the MIL(Check Engine Soon) Light, and give you data to help you determine what's wrong (loose gas cap?). It runs on an older PC or Laptop which allows you to get on the fly readings(you read, someone else drives). It's well worth the $100, get together with your family and friends everybody chip in 20 bucks and an old laptop(386 is OK)and your the hit of the neighborhood. Only trouble is that each scantool does only one type of OBDII output. Ford, GM , and Chrysler/foreign cars are all different. There are other decoders that handle all three systems but their more expensive. Do the cost/benifit analysis to see if you want a single or universal system and how much the share will be. Do a Google search on ODBII, and pick the reader you want. , hope it was just the gas cap. 94

Passenger side right foot panel. Remove the panel and it is behind it. There is also one between the driver and passenger under the radio area behind the gear shift. This is for transmission tho I was told.

Since I don't know how to re-direct the answer to your post, Please see the answer to the question: "Do you need to drop the transfer case to change oil pan gasket on a 93 Chevy Silverado K1500 4x4 with 5.7L?" I had to change the oil pan on my 94 Cheyenne K2500, 5.7L 4x4 yesterday.

--------------- 1/15/09 ----------- You have 2 choices, either lower the front axle assembly a few inches, or remove the motor mount bolts and raise the motor a few inches. Take off the distibutor cap or it will crush against the firewall when you lift the motor. Either way it is still a tight fit to clear the oil pump and screen with the pan. You would get the most clearance by removing the front axle.

Why does your 2001 Nissan Pathfinder heater fan stay on high even after I try to shut it off?"

Rover 75 share the BMW 3 series platform and technique. Petrol engines are manufactured by MG Rover (except 4.6 V8 produce by Ford). The 2.0 l diesel, four cylinder inline, turbocharged engines, called CDT-116 PS and CDTI-131 PS, are BMW M47 common-rail diesel engine produced from 1998 to 2007 year. Same engine you can find in BMW 3 and 1 series.

it took a while for me to figure this one out... its used under heavy acceleration, keeps the tranny in the lower gears to give you more power when your in a hurry. saves you gas too because your not trying to push the pedal harder to get more speed... works very well, i use it all the time

EDIT: NO DO NOT USE IT ON AUTO!!

USE IT IN THE MIDDLE BUTTON, AUTO IS FOR HILL CLIMBING WHERE YOUR GEARS DON'T DROP, POWER IS FOR WHEN YOU WANT IT TO PUSH THE REVS!

USE IT ON AUTO CONTINUOUSLY AND IT WILL KILL YOUR AUTO BOX!

-Evan

no

North America