Pontiac Firebird

too much, that engine was a POS from the factory, I know I own one. get a nice 350, 400, or 455 Pontiac if you want to go retro. Turbos work just fine on them and there a whole lot cheaper and more reliable than that 301

Check your fuel filter, throttle position sensor , and timing

You can find the air conditioning drain tube for your 1997 Pontiac Firebird on the bottom of the air conditioner compressor. The drain tube will be near the back of the air conditioner compressor.

Either a 3.8L V6 or a 5.7L LS1 V8

Drain the trans fluid and toss it Take the Track bar off the rear axle Unbolt the brake line brackets from the rear axle Unbolt the lower shock bolts Use a Jack to support the rear axle and disconnect the rear shocks, then lower the axle. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT KILL YOUR BRAKE LINES WHEN YOU DO THIS Take the Rear Coil springs out. Take the Rear bolts out of the Torque Arm Take the Front bolts out of the Torque Arm Bracket Pull the Torque arm. Make a mark on the Driveshaft and the Rear Axle Pinion Flange so you know which side is up. Unbolt the rear U-Joint Straps. Pull the Driveshaft out of the Transmission Disconnect any sensors or cables on the Transmission Use a jack to slighty lift the Transmission and remove the Crossmember bolts Take out the Crossmember Remove the Transmission from the Bellhousing (4 Bolts) Have someone else handy and one of you get on each side of the transmission and pull it backward and down to get it out Disconnect the Clutch fork push rod and spring Unbolt the Bellhousing from the motor (10 or 12 bolts if I remember right) Take the Clutch Fork out If you are going to reuse the pressure plate then mark the flywheel and the pressure plate so you get them lined back up Put an alignment tool in the clutch Making a star pattern, (like tightening lug nuts), ONE TURN AT A TIME loosen the clutch to flywheel bolts YOU WILL HAVE TO RESURFACE THE FLYWHEEL, SANDING THE FLYWHEEL DOES NOT COUNT AS RESURFACING IT, THE FLYWHEEL WILL HAVE TO BE RESURFACED AT A MACHINE SHOP, if it is already too thin it will need to be replaced. YOU WILL HAVE TO EITHER HAVE THE PRESSURE PLATE REBUILT, OR BUY A NEW ONE. THROW AWAY THE CLUTCH DISC, IT CANNOT BE REBUILD, RESURFACED, OR OTHERWISE REUSED. Installation of the clutch is basically the reverse of the Removal

To change the spark plugs on your bird', your going to need to get under the car for most of them. the 2 center plugs will be the hardest, you might also need to move your oxygen sensors, just follow the wires, remove the boot, and use a spark plug specific socket wrench, make sure you do one at a time though, so you dont get confused, with the late model f-body's (camaro's and firebird's), its going to take ALOT of time and patience with removing your spark plugs, so be prepared to get frustrated.. theres not really a step-by-step procedure for this, just remove them, the first time i removed them, it took me 2 and a half hours, these cars have a reputation with spark plugs, if your not experienced with work like this, i recommend a professional do it, and this IS possible to do by yourself, so don't think it isn't.

On my 99 Grand Prix 3.8 it's located below the rear exaust manifold on the engine block.

Well fisrt off you need a new motor which about $150 or more new and just unscrew the screws holding it and unplug the eletrical plug for it

get a haynes book at the auto shop its a must have for me :)

It will start up fine everytime. It runs completely fine when its all cooled down. It only starts having these problems when it gets heated up and the turned off for about 10 or 15 minutes. Then I start it again and it starts doing this. I can drive it fine to anywhere when its cooled and I start it up, but once I drive it somewhere once and then leave it alone for 10,15 mins, then start it up again it sounds like its not getting the correct amount of fuel. When I press on the gas it revs a little bit, but then stalls or begins to stall. Check egr, not that, checked MAP sensor, not that. I don't know what else it could be. It started doing this when I drove it a lot on a really hot day, much more than I usually drive it. Engine temperature got a little over 220 degrees Fahrenheit.

Check your motor. it might be going out. Either that or the frame is pushed out somehow. In that case u gotta tear of the interior pannel and look.

You can start by starting a dialogue with the gentleman at www.78ta.com He has a good help section, has links to companies that sell literature on the subject, white papers on the Pontiac 400, and is open to direct questions.

Well I'm just guessing but but it seems to me that you would have to take off the fenders, then the front clip and you should be good to go then.

It should be on the driver side, above the pedals but under the steering wheel on your left. Turn the screw and pull off the cover. Hope this helps.

in the motorrom you find some- the rest is under the center dash or in the lower right side of the dash

small block and big block motor mounts are the same, so you should be able to take V8 motor mounts from most any Chevy engine bay.

its not a fuse. there is a module that is mounted on the firewall near the center but closer to the driverside that controls the headlight doors

U JUST NEED A NEW WATERPUMP MINE WAS DOING THE SAME THING AND I PAID FIRESTONE $700 TO PUT MINE IN. YEAH WAY TO MUCH CAUSE THE WATERPUMP ITSELF IS ONLY BOUT $150 SO DONT GO THERE

There are two elements in every headlight. One is for low beam (normal usage) and one is for the high beam. The high beam element tends to burn out sooner than the low beam, and it is very possible that one of your high beam elements has simply burned out. The solution is simple. Replace the offending headlight and you'll have both high beams back.

Depends on what you want to do.1)You can just dump a bottle of rad flush straight into the rad, run the engine for the time that the instruction on the bottle says with the heater on full blast, drain the stuff out , flush with clean water and then refill with the reccomended rad fluid and you are done.Take the time to change the thermostat while you are at it.2)All the above with one additional step. I went to the car wash, removed the intake and out put hoses to the engine. I then used the high pressure wash to send water thruogh the rad first through the intake and then the output of the rad until the water ran clear. reconnect the hoses and you are done.The drain plug is on the lower left side of the rad when you face the front of the car. Its a simple hand twist plug.

87 octane regular unleaded.

I had the problem on a 1994 with V6, sounds similiar. I think the problem stems from the safety locking mechanism that requires the brake pedal be depressed prior to shifting.

1) you can cap both sides off and not use your heater, do this by purchasing $2 worth of heater hose that fits over the quick connect spout on both sides and use hose clamps to secure it --- that's the cheapest way

2) I'm sure there are plenty of 98-99 wrecked firebirds at the junkyard you can get those hoses off of

3) if you have just one hose that is busted, cut the quick connect off, purchase a brass tube that will fit in the hose and hoseclamp that side about 3 inches back from where you cut it off, purchase some heater hose that will fit over your existing heater hose, as this should also fit over the quick connect nipple on the engine, and you can then use 2 more hoseclamps to secure that as well.

4) Visit www.v6fixit.com. They have a kit for a great low price that will fix your problem.