Serpentine Belts

You can change a timing belt on a 2007 kia spectra by first making sure that the engine is turned off. Pop open the hood and locate the timing belt, and remove the belt carefully.

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Find the idler pully of the serpentine belt system. It is usually the one that appears to not "drive" any system and is normally located towards the top of the other pullys. On the idler pully assembly, you will find a bolt (not the bolt in center of pully or the one at the pivot point of assembly). Using the correct sized socket and a large ratchet (or wrench) as a lever, pull or push the idler pully assembly, which is spring tensioned, until the pully moves in far enough to get new belt on. Slowly release tension until belt is tight against the idler pully under the assembly's spring tension. Be sure belt is properly seated on all pullys without any twists.

Just below the power steering unit is the tensioner. It has a square hole for a 3/8th wrachet. Insert the wratchet in the square hole and pull left. Have someone remove the old belt and replace with the new one. Takes 5 minutes at most.

changing serpentine belt and pulley 90' sedan deville

The tensioner for the serpentine belt on a 1999 SL-1 is located just below and forward of the power steering pump (which is close to the firewall). You will be able to see it with a good light because it has a square fitting exposed that either a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench will fit on. It is not extremely easy to reach, especially if you have big hands. When you do get a wrench on it, turn it clockwise and the belt will loosen right up. Remember, the tensioner is under spring tension, so ease the wrench off slowly.

by "the belt" i am assuming you mean the serpetine drive belt. you will need a 15mm (metric) socket and a rachettedrive.i use a breaker bar only because it is longer.apply downward pressure on the nut holding the tension pulley. slide off belt and replace in same fashion...TIP... make a drawing of pulleys and wheels with belt still in place before removing belt it will be easier to follow the correct path of the belt

There is either a tensioner or an adjustment screw on a pulley. A Haynes manual or Chiltons manual will help with the routing of the belt, and how to adjust the belt tension as well. Usually the idler pulley is used, before loosening the top bolt , loosen the center bolt of the pulley.

To remove the serpentine belt use a 1/2" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner upward off the serpentine belt while removing the belt from the pulleys. When installing the new belt make sure the belt is aligned properly in the grooves of the accessory pulleys(or the costly new belt will be shredded when the engine starts). Install the serpentine belt under the tensioner pulley by rotating the tensioner upward with the 1/2" drive breaker bar. When the breaker bar is released the tensioner will keep the belt properly tensioned.

There is a diagram, either under the hood or on the radiator shroud, that tells you how to "re-string" the belt. For technical data, such as torquing the pulleys, consult a repair manual, which can be gotten from an Auto Zone

I have loosen the tensioner pulley to change the belt. If that is what you are looking for perhaps this might help. Some places want to charge up to $90 for doing this because there is an engine mount on the very top which does not allow room enough to turn the pulley and release the belt. Make a diagram of the belt and the pulleys. If you have a floor jack take the top half of the handle or go to Lowes or Home Depot and purchase a 24" X 1" steel pipe, keep the receipt so you can return it. as long as you are at the store purchase a scrap piece of wood, a small piece of 2X4 or any board thicker than 1/2" it does not need to be that big. Ready??? Position the pipe on top of the pulley arm apposite to where it is mounted to the engine block, stand in front of the car, place the piece of wood on top of the pipe and place your chest on it, push down with your body while reaching any one of the pulleys and slide the belt to the side. Repeat to replace belt. Hope that helps. Rob, IL

Freightliner doesn't have a model called the "Condor", and never has. And yes, I get that you mean "condo", but the sleeper configuration has absolutely nothing to do with how the belts are routed. Was is vital is the information you've excluded... that being, the model year and engine make and model. So, as is, we don't know if you have a 12.7 60 Series Detroit, pre-ACERT Caterpillar, post-ACERT Caterpillar, or Cummins N14 or ISX.

Make your way to the front of the engine, remove the plastic v-belt cover from the power steering pump inlet, the sensor sits just above the crank pulley. There's a plastic plug with two wires which needs to be pulled out from the knock/crank sensor. Then use a small spanner to loosen the 2 screws on either side of the sensor.

Hig Pressure Mass

Windstars were offered with a couple of different engines - each engine requiring a different serpentine belt.

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Might be on your hood or radiator cover or somewhere around there or it will be in a "Haynes Manual" found at any part store.

almost any parts store will give you a copy of the diagram from their book if you ask. I know because NAPA prints me out one every time I need to change my belt. Watch out for the top tension-er..it is a reverse thread.

There is a big difference between a TIMING BELT OR CHAIN and a MULTIFUNCTION SERPENTINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT. The Timing Belt or Timing Chain is inside the engine and cannot be seen. Some cars have a rubber belt (many Japanese vehicles) that has a limited life, such as around 60,000 to 80,000 miles. It takes 2 -3 hours or more to change it because many parts have to be removed, sometimes the radiator. If it breaks, in some cars, one of the pistons will hit one of the valves and bend it, and this type of engine is called a "valve bender". Fixing a bend valve is very expensive. Many cars have a steel timing chain (many USA vehicles such as Chevy, Pontiac, and others). The steel chain is good for the life of the engine. They usually don't break, maybe 1 in 500,000 vehicles. God bless America and vehicles that are MADE IN USA.

The engine rolls back toward the firewall because of the mount on the lower passenger side of the engine. It is called a torque strut or "Dogbone" but disconnecting it is usually not necessary as the rearward twist of the engnine is usually not significant enough to cause a problem.

i have read, and heard from others that you need only to remove the bolt or nuts from the mount,not remove it. this will allow you to support the engine with a jack under the oil pan (using a board to spread the weight out). From here you should be able to loosen the tensioner with a wrench and replace the belt.

Yes, support the engine with a jack and a 2X4 on the oil pan when removing the engine mounts. I did this not too long ago...it's a little scary when you remove that second bolt. I had the jack dead center on the pan and the engine shifted towards the firewall. I easily pulled it back into place though.

I changed one on my son's car without removing anything. I went to Auto Zone where I rented a "serpentine belt tool". It's basically a long flat piece of steel (about 24" long) with a socket head on one end. The kit comes with 3 different size metric sockets and box end wrench adapters. (depending on how much room is between the fender wall and the tensioner pulley) I had to use the 15mm box end adapter. He has a 4 cyl. Anyway, get the wrench on the tensioner pulley and pull toward the front of the car until the belt comes off. I did it at the same time I replaced the alternator and had no problems at all. Took about 20 minutes all together.

Usually if you have trouble finding the ten. pulley on these types of motors. You can tug on the belt real hard and look for a pulley that is moving. That's your ten. And very true about launching the wrench!!!

generaly these cars have a tensioner pulley... to loosen the belt, find the tensioner pulley, and loosen the bolt that keeps it from moving up and down.(could be on the block, but look around...) use a box end wrench on the bolt or nut head in the middle of the pulley... you will need to find the best starting position for the wrench as you will need to move the pulley and pull the belt off at the same time. the pulley will have spring tension on it so be careful not to launch your wrench when you let go! good luck

Some of the problem may be that the '93 is made by GMC not Chevy (weird). But, the tensioner pully is typically located at the top of the belt assembly. It is a smooth pully that has the word "load" and an arrow showing which way to turn the bolt. It will hacve a bolt in the center and can be loosened with a 15mm socket. Once it is loose, rotate the tensioner pully until the belt can be taken off or put on. Push the pully back in to the vertical position with the belt in place, then retighten your bolt

The fan belt drives the fan, water pump, alternator, power steering, air conditioner and air pump... if the vehicle has all of these. The fan belt (often a serpentine belt) can slip without any real problem other than a little noise. The cam belt (timing belt) looks quite different and only drives the camshaft. The timing belt is designed to keep the camshaft and crankshaft in perfect synchronization. The timing belt has "lugs", or specially designed bumps in the belt that align with slots in the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulley. To protect the timing belt from grease, mud and other hazards, the timing belt is usually behind a fairly significant protective cover.

When the belt starts slipping.