Serpentine Belts

19 mm 6-point socket, standard length not deep socket. goes on upper "nut" of idler tension arm. With 1/2" drive, pull towards front to relieve tension; remove belt from idler. Release tension. Complete removing old serpentine belt. Install new belt in same path, same side 'grooved'. Pull on idler arm (19 mm socket) to allow new belt onto idler arm. Check that belt is lined up with all grooves. Release tension; remove tools; done. from Queen Creek AZ.

Tension is automatic. There is no adjustment.

If you look under the hood on the passenger side near the belt, there is a diagram near the belt location.

There is a diagram under the hood, either on the hood or the radiator shroud.

You can drive for awhile without the alternator or power steering working but without the water pump working you won't get far without doing serious damage to the engine. So if that serp belt drives the water pump the answer is no.

He is a character in "Butch Casidy and the Sundance Kid:

You have to remove the dash upper pad and the lower dash trim under the steering column. The shift indicator cable clips to the steering column. You dont need to remove all of the wood trim around climate control, etc. Only the small section under column and the plastic lower panel that is dash colored.

There are 3 dash pad screws in the defroster grille, one in each a/c vent. (carefully pry the 4 vents out from each end) There is also one, if not two screws going straight up into the dash just to the left of where it says "cadillac". They are accessed through holes in the top of the glove box liner. The screw requires a 7mm or 9/32 socket on long nut driver or ratchet and extension. Be careful disconnecting the in car temp sensor directly behind the word "cadillac". Once dash pad is out of the way there are 3 cluster screws and 2 holding a black trim bezel located directly under the cluster face. The cluster has to tip towards you to in order to allow the PRND321 indicator to clear the dash. Be sure the dental floss like cable is unclipped from the steering column shifter collar first. This applies to all 1985-1993 FWD Deville, Fleetwood, and 60 Special.

I'm not sure on the timing belt, but before 140,000 KM (100,000 MI)is a safe bet. As far as acessory belts, there is no recommended interval, but they should be changed if they are noisy or if recommended by your technician. I'm not sure of the timing belt interval, but if it was mine I would do it at 60,000. Serpentine belts should bechanged if there are any cracks going parallel to the belt edges, or if the belts has cracks in the belt perpendicular to edges so that pieces are starting to come off. Perpendicular cracks are normal, unless pieces are starting to come off. If a technician recommends a belt, ask why. If it does not fit this criteria, you probably don't need one. With the exception of oil or coolant contamination. If there is noise from it and that bothers you, then change it. If you get cornered into getting it changed, ask to see it. If it didn't fall into the above situations, I empower you to use it as tourniquet and wrap it around his neck for selling you something you didn't need.

Just went rounds looking for this info. Found the answer going to my favorite parts store and looking for "what tool" to change the belt. Turns out the auto-tensioner has a bolt in the center of the pulley. Use either a wrench or (preferably) borrow the proper tool which is just a wrench on a nice leverage bar. When you put pressure the tensioner pulley arm will swing and give you room to remove and replace the belt. Just don't be afraid of loosening the pulley (that was my fear) and don't try a hex wrench on the engine mount side of the tensioner arm. (laugh now) Have a nice day.

Take a 1/2" ratchet ot breaker or torque wrench without a socket and place it in the square slot in between the two small pulleys on the auto tensioner and pull hard towards the passenger side fender - the belt will come off. Be careful and make certain that your ratchet is secure in the slot!

Put Auto zone in your search engine and they should have the repair guide or the diagram for the belt.....

Regardless of what year your Caravan is, it is extremely difficult to replace a serpentine belt w/o a serpentine untensioner tool. This is a thin, long handle with a socket on the end that sticks out at 90 degrees of the handle. The socket slips onto the bolt-head of the tension-er pulley. Once the serpentine belt is threaded around all the other pulleys you put the untensioner tool on the tension-er pulley bolt and pull (or push) to achieve slack in the serpentine belt and slip it on the tension-er pulley.

The best way to change the belt is to cut the old belt in half and then use the old belt to pull up on the tension pulley it will slide on easily every time. (takes two people to do this one the pull and ond to slide the belt on.

The alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine near the bottom. I found it is easiest to remove it from inside the wheel well. There should be 2 bolts holding it to the alternator bracket that mounts to the block. Unbolting the alternator and them disconnecting the wires running to it is easiest. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

diagram of serpentine belt for 528i BMW

Your belt is either to big or just plain worn out.

Assuming the tensioner is keeping the belt tight, you need to make sure all of the pulleys are still in a straight line. If a bearing has failed in a pulley the puley will "lean" causing the belt to run off the edge.

You do not tighten a serpentine belt. It has a tensioner that keeps it at the correct tension. If it is loose, either the belt is worn and needs replacing or the tensioner is defective.

By replacing the belt tensioner, this is a serpentine belt systems there is no adjusting the alternator bolt tighten the drive belts, if the belts are loose you must replace the belt tensioner and the belt to retain optimum performance from you Charging sytem as well as you other equipment being driven by the belt system.

I actually learned this last night while trying to tighten my A/C belt. The tightener is located in the center of the belt configuration - almost in the middle of the rad area. I have big hands so to make it easier, the rad overflow canister (driver's side) slides off of its bracket & move to opposite side. Next, remove the 2 bolts holding on the power steering canister bracket on the driver's side top of the rad. This will only allow it to move over a bit due to the mix of steel & rubber pipes, but sure makes a difference for access to the tensioner. Now it's tensioner time. There are 2 bolts on the face of the tensioner. The one on the driver's side is the main holding bolt, I found it easier to losen this (slightly) with the closed end of the crescent wrench since the fan blade is so close. You can next losen the passenger side bolt - which is in a sort of half-moon groove in the tensioner. The tensioner should now be able to move either direction. To tighten it, you'll need an approximate 16" flat screwdriver/prybar to be able to get under the fan shaft and on top of the tensioner. So you have to be able to hold down the tensioner with the prybar in your left hand while tightening the passenger side bolt with the other hand. Once that bolt is tight, it won't slacken off so you will have time to tighten the other bolt. Check your belt tension to ensure it is correct - if so, then start putting the cannisters back on.

cost of parts plus half hour labour tops, should take less than 5 mins to change but majority of garages charge a minimum of half hour labour (£15 labour depending on area) avoid dealers as there rip off merchants