Serpentine Belts

Purchase a Haynes Manual from your local auto parts store. It not hard to do just a pain. You have to take off alot of stuff.

you need to relase the tension pully to allow you more room for changing belt once done hold the pully tight by using a metal bar or pipe while tightning the nut ADD - Going from my 1990 layout, which is similar (i think) to the 91, you need to loosen the bolt facing up (between engine and alt), but you also need to loosen the front of the idler pulley. The front bolt locks the pulley down. DONT OVERTIGHTEN. A new belt is 140-180 lbs tight, or 110-150 for used using a belt tension gauge. If you overtighten, you will stress the rubber ring in the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) and it will eventually give out. ($120 for a new one in 2009)

you can makea plate to bolt to the head and in between the alternator mount bolt. make it out of 1/4" inch steel plate. make your template out of a piece of tracing paper and then lay it out on the steel plate the way you need it. Take off enough in between alternator ear for plate to fit against engine flush. you can move mount over to space beside the old boss where the pulley originally bolted on. it will work, but requires lots of exactness to make correctly. i did it. have pics of everything. you need to have a good welder to weld a nut on the back side of plate. you must allow for the distance of pulley sticking out by drilling a hole in plate that is same size as pulley shoulder so it will drop down even like old setup. weld a plated nut on back side so the pulley will tighten down exactly and it will be same distance as old pulley was. take your time. my Cadillac went to the dealership where some idiot drilled the side of the broken stud with a angle drill and drilled the side of he bolt off where the stud originally broke and then broke off an easy out in the block. their fix was a new block or shorter belt which squeeled like a hurt pig everytime the car was started. this was cadillacs final fix which costed me 500.00 . unless i wanted the block replaced. don't ask the price. all in all you are better off to do it your self unless you can't , but then find a good mechanic, as cadillacs mechanics were not impressive to me...

A label(black) shows the belt route under the hood on the passangerside strut tower

The belt is held tight by the tensioner pulley. Look between the Air Conditioner and the alternator. There should be a smaller silver pulley the belt runs around one side, that seems to serve no purpose. OK, if your belt is already off, proceed to the next line. If it isn't, you can cut it or remove it by moving the tensioner pulley. To move the tensioner pulley, I have had two ways work. You need a 3/8" long socket extension bar, about 2 foot, if available. Take the end that snaps into a socket and place it in the notch you find behind the pulley. You have to reef one direction on it and it will lift/move the pulley out of the way and release tension. You will have a LOT of gtension on the bar and your arm. Once you figure out how to do that, get your new belt and place it around the Alternator or Air Conditioner pulley, or the flywheel pulley. Whichever is easier for you (size of arms/hands make a difference). Move the pulley with the bar and either (1) hold with one hand (tough), (2) block it with something, or better yet, (3) have your asistant run the belt on to the course. Then run it around the other pulleys, and let off the idler. The other way, which I have had to do because someone rounded out the lift notch, is to go from underneath with a bottle jack and a piece of 2 X 4, on end. Run one end of the board on to the pulley (put the belt over the pulley first and leave room with the board so the belt can go in the course) and the other end on the bottle jack end. Slowly lift until you have clearance to slide the belt on. Any questions, email me. Good luck. Bill bottldigr@aol.com

This is way easier on a Corolla than many other vehicles. The serpentine belt engages a number of cams, including a spring-loaded idler cam which keeps the belt tension constant--no need to adjust belt tension.

The idler cam is on a a lever which has a hex socket on one end which can be used to compress the spring and thus relax the idler cam. Use a socket wrench to give you the leverage and compress the spring. The belt can be easily removed and installed in this fashion.

There is a spot for a allen/hex wrench or a socket. The socket works much better and would more likely be in every ones toolbox. Since this is a " foreign " make , use metric sockets and a long handles breaker bar for ease of movement. Move it clockwise .Socket size is 19mm. Very very easy- will take you under 10 minutes to change the belt.

I have pictures , just don't know how to post them here.

water pump may be locking up, causing belt to break and vehicle to overheat. have a good mechanic look it over.

The belt has two sides. The smooth side goes against the smooth pulleys while the ribbed side goes against the grooved pulleys. There should also be a sticker somewhere under the hood in the engine compartment. If not then look at the belt routing before you get in and start taking things apart.

I have a grand caravan, with a 3.8l engine.

The s-belt slipped off on my way to work, and I went to put pressure on the tensioner, and the bolt snapped in half.

I drove the van up on ramps, and was able to access the 15mm nut on the back of the tensioner. I went to O'Riley auto parts and they showed me the replacment, and then it was a snap. I used a 3/8" ratchet with the 15mm socket and two 3" extensions. It came right off, and the other one went on easily. I had a 2x2 piece of wood that I used to help hold the tensioner in place, while I worked from the back side.

generally the only way to stop dash squeaks is to take dash apart and apply silicone or similar to joins gaps etc as you reinstall it

Most cars and trucks today have what is called a serpentine belt which runs most accessories.They are very dependable and usually easy to replace. To decide if your belt needs replacing, simply look at the grooved side of the belt to see if it is cracking badly. A couple of cracks every 3 inches is normal, but if you see cracks every 1-2 inches I would recommend that you replace it. On most cars and trucks the procedure is basically the same. First off, get the correct belt by bringing your cars VIN number to the parts store(located on your cars dashboard) the parts store may need it. If there are two choices, get them both so you can complete the repair. Once you have the correct belt, take a minute to review how the belt runs across the pulleys and also check to see if your car/ truck has a underhood diagram of belt routing in case you need it. In most cases you will need a socket wrench or breaker bar with either a 3/8" and /or 1/2" head on it and possibly a short extension. Some models may require a wrench of these similar sizes.Now that you are ready to go to work, you will need to find the spring loaded tensioner which is generally located near the top of the belt path; it usually has a shinny pulley on it. Look at the tensioner and insert the tool into it and apply opposing pressure to release the belt.Now, simply install the new belt making sure it fits into the grooves on all the pulleys. Start the car to check it and you are done and you saved yourelf some money!

I found this picture when I was having problems getting my fan belt back on my dodge. I have an '04 Dodge Ram 1500. It worked, after fighting with it for over an hour I found this picture and had it done in a few minutes. See related link below: Tips for installing serpentine belts: If you can't find a routing diagram under your hood anywhere, draw one of your own beforeremoving the belt. Keep in mind that there is only 1 correct way that the belt will fit, and that the grooved pulleys will only contact the grooved side of the belt (which is the inside), and the smooth pulleys will only contact the smooth side of the belt.

It must be a TIMING CHAIN because the Gates website ( they make timing belts etc. )

does not list a timing belt for the 2003 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter

Most Jimmys use a spring loaded belt tensioner that is not adjustable. NOTE: It is normal for belt tensioner to "bounce" a little bit when engine is running. If your belt is squeaking here are a couple things you can do. Replace the belt with a QUALITY belt. Don't buy the cheap belts on vehicles with long serpentine belts. They will squeak. I recommend Garorback belts. If your belt is still squeaking ensure that all pulleys and belt driven items are working properly by rotating and checking them with the belt off. Most GM vehicles have an idler pulley. It is very common for the bearing on it to go bad. If you still have a squeak then replace the tensioner assembly. They are readilly availably at parts stores.

try this website. http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/bl_gm_95.htm

Need to know what engine you have in order to answer this.

chit!!

Go to www.Miarizos.com

follow the link and it should take you to a hyperlink named " de badge" click on it and should show you the way :)

The timing belt on a 2006 Ford Fusion should be changed when the car's mileage has reached 75,000 miles. This reduces the risk of the belt potentially breaking or slipping due to wear.

* To replace the belt rotate the tensioner counterclockwise on V6 models or clockwise on V8 models to relieve the tension on the belt * Remove the belt from the auxiliary components

It could be a bad bearing in the idler pully, A/C clutch, ect. Try turning on the A/C to see if it changes the squeek.

Check all pulleys for proper alignment. Check for a failed bearing in a pulley. Check for a locked up pulley.

Either the belt is worn out or the tensioner is defective.

I have a diagram for the 92 Aerostar 4L XLT. I'm not sure if it is the same. You might want to have a read-through first and see if the set-up is the same for the 3L. I have not seen how to upload diagrams on this site so I'll try to walk through the configuration. I'll refer to g-side (as grooved side of belt), and S-side (smooth side of belt). I'll use clock references, i.e. "6" meaning 6 o'clock, and "c" for clockwise, and "cc" for counter-clockwise. I think it would be best to have a piece of paper handy and draw it before trying to fish the belt through on your vehicle. Have a read through first and see if the set-up is the same for the 3L. Starting at crank pulley, g-side up at 6 on the pulley - left end of belt goes straight up to alternator pulley, barely touching idler pulley to the left (s-side at approx 2) - g-side wraps "c" around alt pulley, (touching at approx 8 through 1). S-side of belt goes under tensioner pulley (s-side at 6), then "c" around AC pulley (g-side at 10 through 2). Belt then goes to PS pulley, wrapping "c" (g-side touching 3 to 6). S-side of belt then wraps counterclockwise around fan pulley, (s-side touching approximately 12 through 6). Belt ends up going back to the crank pulley, g-side touching 3 through 6. This should be the end of your sketch. Hope this helps.