Timing and Firing Orders

Remove battery ground to avoid shorting

Raise the front of vehicle so there is enough space to work underneath the front of the engine.

Locate the starter from the underside of the car. It is near the transmission, underneath the exhaust manifold, between the engine block and the radiator.

Locate the two bolts holding the starter to the engine at oposite positions 2 and 7 o'clock approximately, viewed from the left side of car. The upper bolt is actually a stud with two metric sized nuts a 13mm (deep dish socket required)and a 15mm. The lower bolt requires a metric size 13mm socket

The bolts are threaded into the starter from the transmission side of the engine

First remove the size 15mm nut on the upper bolt (2 o clock position) this will allow removal of the gound strap from the engine along with the wire harness support.

Loosen the bottom bolt(metric size 13mm) but do not remove completely

Using the deep size 13mm socket remove the upper bolt

Next, remove the lower bolt.The starter should still be supported in its cradle at this stage but as a precaution support it by hand while you remove the lower bolt.

Pry the starter loose from its mounting

Lower it between the cross member and the engine - a little maneuvering is required

When you have lowered it remove the lead(s) Replace in reverse order.

Firing order for you're Rocket engine is 18436572 distributor rotation is counterclockwise. Cylinder one on the distributor cap points to cylinder one.

if timing chain has skipped a tooth, the car will run like crap. you would also hear rattling coming from timing chain area as chain is loose and stretched for it to jump a tooth. more likely to have lost a tooth off one of the timing gears. also u will not be able to time the engine correctly in this condition

the firing order of a 6 perkins engine is 1-5 3-6 2-4

Brown = live (hot) - (equivalent to Red wire)

Blue = neutral - (equivalent to the Black wire)

Yellow and green = earth.

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However never rely on the wire colors - you should test the wires with a meter to be sure that the person before you has not made a mistake further back in the wiring.

try this order, it was all i couold find, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-6-5-4-3-2

If this vehicle has the factory fan shroud it should say on it if you can still read the stickers on top of it.

Did it break close to the boot (point closes to the plug)? Be more specific with your question.

Failed coil/plug wire.

For a 1999 Ford F-250 , 5.4 gasoline V8 engine :

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

It has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P.) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

one end on the spark plug and one end on the distributor unless you have individual coil packs

on an inline engine (all cylinder in a straight line) it is the cylinder that is at the front(water pump end). On a V engine (2 separate banks of cylinders) it will be the cylinder that is farthest forward. if you stand to the side you will see one head is a little bit in front of the other. you may also find cylinder identification on the intake manifold near where the ports mate to the heads.

Could be bad dist. cap or rotor

Most European cars use 1342

Click the link.

1-5-3-6-2-4

First : you need a timing light. you can get one at Walmart. $30

You need to remove the radiator shroud and fan!

so you have a clear view at the crank pully ! see the marks on it .

Next hook the timing light to the Pos. on the battery, then clamp the other wire to the looped wire on the ptu wire harness on the pass. side timing cover. That is your cyl.1 firing.

On the drivers side timing cover is the crank sensor. loosen the three bolt (don't remove them) that hold it in place. you can now adjust your timing by turning left or right one mm at a time. MAX is 15 deg. min. 10deg.

Start your engine run at idle . Point timing light at crank. take reading and make adjustments to the crank sensor by turning it left or right. DO NOT GO MORE THEN 15 deg.

FOR MORE INFO Including PICS. got to www.twinturbo.net FAQ. section

12/23/2009

The answer above mine is absolutly correct, I deleted that other answer that made no sense. BUT save yourself the time by leaving your radiator shroud and fan alone. Get a small Phillips head screwdriver and unscrew, yes you can still reach the bolts with the little screwdriver or better yet, a 10mm socket and rachet. Then go ahead and do your timing the way he explained.

If anyone says different about you having to remove the shroud and fan eithier don't know or chooses the hard way. The little screwdriver is also known as a stubby screwdriver or 3" screwdriver

For a " normal rotation " or left hand motor 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 is correct

For a "Reverse Rotation" or right hand

motor it is 1-8-4-5-6-2-7-3

Be sure of engine rotation.

1 thru 4 are on starboard 5 thru 8 on port

You don't "repair" a timing belt, you replace it. The cost of the belt varies depending on the model of car. The total repair bill is likely to be significantly more than the cost of the belt due to labor. Exactly how much depends not only on the model of car, but where you take it; the best way to get an estimate is to, well, get an estimate: call several local garages, tell them your year, make, and model of car, and ask how much they would charge to replace a timing belt.

The Ford ( 5.8 liter ) 351 cubic inch firing order is :

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the REAR

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of Ford Bronco

Click the link.

The firing order for all of the Chevy Celebrity 4 cylinder engines is: 1 3 4 2

timing is off. this is correct, but to find out WHY it is all of a sudden backfiring you gotta start from the beginning.... I am posting this because in my painstaking search for a solution to my car troubles, all i found were half answered questions or people not posting after a repair was made so we can all know what worked and what didn't.. HERE IS WHAT I FOUND..... I've had a problem with my 1992 Lumina 3.1 ever since around Thanksgiving when the temp outside dropped below 50 degrees. before that, the car would start with absolutely no problems. since then, when i crank the motor, the engine feels like it's going to catch but doesn't- just sputters out and backfires through the intake.. after reading so many threads and "solutions" on the 'net...i checked a few things... found that my fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel through the vacuum port.. also read that a leaky regulator would cause a no start like mine especially in cold weather because without the proper amount of fuel and spark, you wont get the car running. OK!! SO!! after spending 650 dollars to replace the fuel pressure regulator (on the older model Luminas its located under the intake plenum, so the whole thing needs to be removed), AND a new starter since I overcranked mine 1 too many times, the car started right up at the shop.. NEXT DAY THOUGH, cold as hell morning, no start and STILL backfiring through intake.. the mechanic at the shop insisted he take apart my intake again to check voltage on all of my injectors, but thankfully i hadn't enough cash after the 650 wiped me out... REMEMBER...my car ONLY BACKFIRED upon ignition... after i got the motor running, my car ran like a dream.. so in reading hundreds of other posts i determined that it was either gonna be my ignition control module or crank sensor, or a combo of both.. i got crafty this morning and went out to the driveway with an extension cord and my sister's hair dryer... i put the hair dryer to the ICM and the coils that mount to it for 5-10 mins.. low and behold, my car started right up without hesitation or backfire. i know this post has been long, but like i said, I'm only doing it so that maybe the next poor guy having similar problems will come across it and get closure and hopefully a solution. my icm needs replacing soon as i get paid