Toyota Paseo

I need timing mark for Toyota paseo

No, airbags did'nt start being included on the Paseo until, I believe, the 1994 or 1995 model year, about 2 to 3 years before the end of the Paseo's production run in 1997. I have a 1992 Paseo and it does NOT have airbags, neither driver or passenger.�

The 1993 Paseo does have a drivers side airbag.

I have a 93 paseo and it does have a drivers side airbag

The proper gap for your Paseo is .043

The three clips at the top of the headlight unit hold it together, but do not give you access to remove the bulb, which occurs from behind. It can be done by feel, but the bulb is held in by an irregularly shaped spring clip, and rear access is extremely tight. Instead, you will need to remove any bolts on the top of the headlight unit (should just be the one) and the associated turn signal (should also be one). The turn signal unit has a ball/spring clip holding it in the bottom, so a good tug will free it at this point. Underneath is another bolt holding in the headlight unit, remove that as well. The bottom of the headlight is attached with a bar/spring clip, so a good tug outward (not upward) should remove that as well. I find the plastic guard surrounding the hood latch gets in the way, and it's easy to pop out, so I do. Now, pull out the three-prong plug (grasp only by the plug, never pull on the wires!) and slide the rubber boot off. The spring clip is now visible. The straight wire part is hooked under the rim where the headlight bulb is seated. Use a screwdriver to move it from under its hook and the spring rotates back and out of the way. Slide in a new bulb, reverse the process, and voila! Note: be careful never to touch the glass of the new bulb with your bare hands or get it dirty in any way, or it will burn out quickly.

take out back seat and trim pieces

the fuse box is actually a pain in the butt. It is located inside the car on the passenger side. You have to pull the carpet up and look under it. I had to remove my glove box to do this. But it is next to the door. Good luck.

It's a pain in the ass. It is located on the passanger side of the motor right under the motor mount. It is necessary to drop and/or raise the motor drasticly to have semi easy access to the bolts required. I think there are 5 or 6 not sure off the top of my head. You have to take off both belts first then you can take the pully off. Then remove all the bolts that attach the water pump. It should fall right out. Clean the surface of the motor where the new pump will sit. I suggest using some RTV Blue gasket maker to assist with getting the new paper gasket lined up and in place. Install is reverse of removal. If you need pics...let me know. liquid1@gambit.net or visit board.tercelonline.com and do some searching. I'm Tercelerate I agree its a pain in the ass, especially if you have to do it twice!!

Sorry but this is the OLD specs. I just bought alldata and they had an update to the oil capacity as of i think 04. The revised oil capacity is 3 liters w/ new filter. if u put in 3.5L it can blow your seals and u will leak oil. I put in 3L every time and after running a little the dipstick reads full.

when you look under the hood at the fuse panel (which is located on the driver side)you will find the fourth fuse from the bottom is a 15 amp fuse which is for the clock

With engine cold
Drain coolant from radiator
Remove hose clamps on defective hose
Remove defective hose and replace
Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air lock
Start engine and look for leaks
Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on
Re-check coolant level

First take out the back seat, you will see a black cover, this covers the fuel pump assembly. Take that off there will then be around 8 or 9 screws holding the assembly down. Take the whole thing out and the fuel pump is the gold or silver cylindar at the bottom. When replacing it, you should also replace the strainer, filter, and fuel pump assembly gasket.

Jack and tire wrench. You will need to jack up the car and remove the wheel of course. Jackstands are a good idea too. I just did it for a 94 Towncar. The calipers can be removed by inserting a suitably sized Torx wrench (mine was a socket that fit on my ratchet) into the two mounting bolts that face inwards - away from you. These bolts are hard to see. If you don't have a Torx wrench and you plan on doing work on cars in the future, you may as well buy a set. A screwdriver at the top of the pads will help loosen the calipers/pads, and then the top of the caliper should slide out, followed by the bottom, which has a clip that fixes it to the bracket. Then the pads can be popped out by hand or with a screwdriver. Mechanics iron wire or a cut and bent coathanger can be fashioned to support the caliper from the body frame - generally you do not want to remove the hydraulic brake line unless it is damaged or leaking - and you do not want to cause that damage by letting the caliper dangle on its brakeline. If the parking brake has worn a ridge into the drum area of the rotor, the star wheel adjuster at the top can be loosened with a screwdriver. WD-40 or equivalent used sparingly may help but keep the lubricant off the shoes and pads. If you get lubricant or grease on the rotor, you will need to degrease it. Check the rotor for wear; a caliper-type micrometer is useful, or your auto parts store/machine shop can check it for you. For some the spec is not less than 11.25mm, but check this spec for your model and year. If, after turning it, the rotor thickness will be less than that, you should get new rotors at common auto parts stores - generally not too expensive. That's it. The only unusual tool would be the Torx wrench. You may also needa tool to turn the puck in on the rear brakes.

The starter is located on the rear side of the engine, parallel to the axle, and underneath the intake manifold. Your only access is from underneath and so you first need to raise the vehicle onto jack stands. Remove the ground wire from the battery terminal. From underneath the vehicle, disconnect the two positive power connections to the starter. Then unbolt the intake manifold stay, a U-shaped steel brace that bolts to the underside of the intake manifold. Remove the manifold. Once it is removed, the next step is to remove the two mounting bolts connecting the starter to the engine. On a manual transmission, access to the two bolts heads is from above. You'll need to remove the air cleaner hose and most likely the air cleaner box in order to access those two bolt heads. I've been told, but have not confirmed, that these two bolt heads are oriented 180 degrees in vehicles with automatic transmissions - in which case they can be loosened from underneath the vehicle. Once you have loosened these bolts, you can remove the starter from underneath the vehicle. Replacement is, of course, the exact opposite. If you have a manual transmission, you need a second person to tighten the bolt heads from above while you are underneath holding the replaced starter in position. The two most difficult elements of this job are finding the starter location and working with the tight access. Access for this work is rather challenging - the higher you can raise the vehicle, the easier the job will be. A few words on replacing or rebuilding your starter: The solenoid (magnetic switch) is connected to the starter motor. The starter and solenoid assembly is relatively easy to diagnose from a service/repair manual. If the solenoid is functioning properly, the starter motor itself is quite serviceable. After time, the copper commutator plates of the motor will oxidize and exhibit an almost lacquered sheen from arcing and brush wear that inhibits electrical connectivity between the brushes and the commutator plates. It is very easy to lightly sand the commutators and/or replace the brushes if they are worn, relubricate the motor bearings, and return your starter into service if there are no other wiring deficiencies. In my case I was able to disassemble the motor, sand the commutator plates, relubricate the bearings, and reassemble the motor in about the same time it would have taken me to drive to the auto parts store.

I have a 1992 Toyota Paseo and I use 5W-30 engine oil in it. Always have and that's what the owners manual recommends.

The cylinder head on a Toyota Paseo requires 33 pounds of torque on the head bolts. If the bolts are over tighten the block can warp leading to a blown head gasket.

Radiator fan could be bad, fan relay bad, fuse blown. Also if your ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is bad the ECM (computer) won't know to tell the fan to turn on.

probably need new head gasket

It means you have a problem with the SRS. The air bag may or may not work in an accident. It also may deploy prematurely. Take it to a professional for repair. This is not a DIY repair. Serious injury can occur when working on the SRS.

the air fuel is controled by the oxygen sensor, located in the exhaust manifold. the idle is controled by the iscv(idle speed control valve) it is located on the intake manifold opposite to the trottle body The ECM (engine computer) uses various sensors (intake air temp, engine coolant temp, throttle position, manifold air pressure sensor) and a few I'm sure I missed to determine how long to keep the fuel injectors open so that the engine has the proper amount of fuel to go with the air so the engine runs efficiently. Once the Oxygen sensor warms up to 600 degrees the computer uses the signals from the oxygen sensor to determine whether a little more or llitle less fuel is needed . There is a flat head screw on the throttle body that can be adjusted to allow a little more or a little less air which will raise or lower the idle speed.

There are two oil dipsticks one for the engine oil and one for the transmittion oil (don't get confused). Once you find the transmission dipstick pull it out, if the oil is still redish then it's fine. If it's black it needs to be changed. To add transmission oil you need to get a funnel tiny enough to fit in the dipstick hole for the transmission with the other end of the funnel wide enough to accommodate the pouring of the oil (there is special oil). Do it slowly, do not overfill, remove the funnel placing the dipstick back in place and check the level with the car running.

My personal advise - if you haven't dropped the oil from the transmission - good - take it to a shop. There is a lot of work involved with cleaning, and placing new glue compound around the edges of the pan to make sure there's no leaks.

GOOD LUCK -E

No they do not. They will need the old style with the spring...

It will be the lower radiator hose. You have to pull the distributer. Marked it so you do not mess up the timing. Remove two 10 MM Nuts Becareful installing the thermosat gasket if not seated right you will ruin the gasket. Time 11/2 to two hours first time. You will need to drain the radiator partially to reduce the antifreeze mess when you remove the hose from the radiator to the thermostat housing and/or the thermostat housing bolts. You don't have to pull the distributer but it is a lot easier as the thermostat housing (cover) is right there behind the distributer. Also, you need to make sure the thermostat is put in facing the right direction. Make sure to get a new gasket for the thermostat housing. ************************************************** Mine is a 94. I'll assume it is similar. I was not confident enough to remove the distributor. The mount was slotted and I know you do not want to get it misaligned. Experienced mechanics can probably tell you more. Instead, I removed the battery and the air intake ducting and the air filter assembly. The mechanic's instructions above were helpful. My battery used 10 mm sockets. The ducting was 10 mm but the base, where it bolts to the car, was 12mm. You'll need a socket extender to reach the nuts on the thermostat cover. I think mine is about 4-5 inches. A longer extender will be helpful to get the 12mm bolts out of the base of the air filter assembly. It's not nearly as tight removing all of this and you can see pretty good under the distributor to do this work I was able to get mine off without taking the hose off of the cover. You'll need to remove the plug on the sensor that's on the thermostat's cover. Pinch the connector near the wires and it should release. It's tight in there, but a good squeeze will release the connector. Replace it before you tighten the thermostat cover while you have a little play. I got mine on after I tightened the cover, but it was pretty tight. I bought the new gasket (spend the dollar--the old one was pretty warped) and it has a groove in it. Work the edge of the thermostat into that. Hold it against the cover with your fingers as you place the cover on the engine block. Have the two nuts ready to finger tighten so that the thermostat stays aligned. This was my first time. It took me about one hour and fifteen minutes. I'm a geek by trade, too ;-) I replaced this because my car was running hot. Clue: When I turned on the heater, it would cool down.

just look on line you can get one for like .84 cent

Or you can go here ->http://www.acrobatfiles.com/camry/189-4681-pdf.html

It's for 93 model, but It may be close. The Paseo is page 9 and page 10a.

Open the trunk. You'll need to pull the black plugs out that hold the carpet to the wall of the trunk. Once you pull the carpet back, you'll see 3 or 4 nuts that you will need to remove with a wrench or small socket. After these are removed, the light will pull out. Just twist to remove the burned out light. Reverse process to replace.

No.