Turn Signals and Hazard Lights

Usually this would mean that one of your turn signal bulbs is burnt out either front, side, or rear, check them first, if not, you may either have a short in the switch, causing it to stay on. It could also be due to a bulb which was not getting a solid connection; check to make sure they haven't jiggled themselves loose, causing a faulty connection.

The turn signal switch is quite easy to remove and replace. The turn signal switch simply plugs in and plugs out.

There could be several answers, the first thing to do is to check to see if the (turn signal) fuse is blown. If that is the case - replace the fuse. If the fuse is ok, then the cause could be that the "relay" may need replacing. Other than the actual turn signal mechanism you should be OK.

To change the front blinker bulb on your 1989 Chevy Celebrity simply reach up behind the bumper and unplug the socket from the fixture. Replace the bulb in the socket and plug the socket back into the fixture.

2003 Buick LeSabre turn signal light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement turn signal light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the turn signal light bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

The flasher is located under the dash on the drivers side. Its mounted in a off white plastic bracket along with some other wiring harnesses near the steering knuckle. It's black and square, about 1 3/4" x 1 1/4" inches. When you remove it let me know how you did it. That's the information I'm looking for.

Yes.

More than likely the Flasher Relay is bad.

FRONT SEATING AREA, DRIVER SIDE, UNDER DASH, ABOVE KICK PANEL, MOUNTED IN BOTTOM OF CONVENIENCE PANEL.

Why do my hazard lichts keep flashing when car is locked

check the interior switch for where.

open trunk...reach inside by the light assembly...loosen the wing nut type bolts....then loosen the 2 nuts by where the trunk meets the body on the trunk side...pull the entire assembly out....replace bulb.

It is underneath your dash (although u do not need to disassemble the anything to get to this part). It is towards the back and is mounted along the other relays for the vehicle. It is rectangular, silver towards the back right. The best way to find out is to turn on your hazard and you will hear the clicking sound, you can actually "feel" the clicking if you hold the different relays. The relay that generates the most clicking vibration is probably your flasher.

If the lights come on but do not flash then flasher relay is defective. If the do not even come on either a fuse is blown or a bulb is blown.

physical, chemical, biological, ergonomic and psycological hazards

The 1997 Ford Expedition owners manual shows that fuse # 1 in the junction box ( interior fuse panel ) is a 15 amp fuse for the stop / turn lamps

Sounds like you may have an incorrect bulb in one of the left turn-signal housings.

If your "parking light" socket needs a two filament bulb (the kind with two contacts on the bottom) and a single filament bulb was put into that socket the result is the pair of socket-connectors (each meant for one of the contacts on the bottom of a dual-filament bulb) will be shorted together by the single-filament contact.

This will effectively connect your turn-signal circuit for the left side to your parking light/panel light circuit all the time.

The result is that if the parking lights are on, the single filament will be powered and back-feed the turn-signal circuit on the left side, but if the parking lights are off, then the left turn signal will power the single filament and back-feed the parking light circuit (which also feeds the radio and clock lights in your dashboard).

Hope this helps

Usually under the dash near the fuse box, however without vehicle make, model and year it's impossible to answer exactly.

Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals

You have not provided enough information for a proper diagnosis so you are getting a "general" answer. The specific information missing is the history of the condition. Does the engine "try" to turn over (IE can you hear the starter engage and move the crankshaft at all). Has this car been in storage (IE not started) for a long time? Has any work been done/parts replaced before the no-crank/turnover condition was discovered? Is the problem not there when the car and engine are stone cold?

If ANY parts have been replaced or major assembly work done (such as trans or engine rebuild) then look very closely at that work as an error was likely made during reassembly.

If the engine tries to turn over and/or was fine before it was stored/not started for a long time then suspect the battery and/or cables (especially the ground cable).

If the car was in use and suddenly stopped cranking (IE "I was drove to the store and it would not start when I returned to the parking lot, it would not even try to crank) then suspect the starter relay/solonoid and starter itself.

If the condition does not exist when engine and under the hood are "stone cold" (as in sat outside overnight) then the starter is almost certainly failing.

Make the following tests with a fully charged, known good, battery...

1). If the car is in a well ventilated area (IE no GAS fumes under the hood!) and you have enough clearance to reach it with a "throwaway" thick-shaft screwdriver then you can test the relay/solonoid by shorting across the two big studs (caution! sparks WILL fly and the screwdriver will be damaged!). If starter engages and cranks the engine then the cables and battery and starter are likely all right and you should look into the relay/solonoid or it's control circuit as the culprit.

2). Turn on the headlights and attempt to crank the engine over while watching them.

(Note: Immediately after cranking CAREFULLY feel each of the cables, at both ends, for being "hot" (take care not to burn your fingers!). If any one end is noticeably hotter than the others then that is your most likely target for repair.)

If the lights "go out" or dim severely then the starter is either drawing too much power (as in shorting internally) or the battery cables/ends are corroded where they contact the battery and/or cable's copper wire and/or engine/body contact-point.

(Note that you may NOT be able to see the corrosion, the cables/ends may "appear" clean but there could still be enough corrosion hidden in the metal-to-metal contact surface area to cause this symptom.)

3). With the headlights off, place a digital voltmeter set to 20 volt-range "across" each of the cables in turn (IE one probe on the battery POST itself, NOT the cable clamp, and the other on the metal near where the other end of the cable connects. IE engine block or starter relay/solonoid stud or vehicle body, wherever that particular cable connects).

Attempt to crank the engine over again while reading the voltmeter.

If the voltage you read is more than 0.3 volts (that is 3 tenths of a volt) then you have found a problem with that cable/connection.

Good luck

Hey Phill=the front ones can be gotten to from the rear of the light assy and on some of the cars you can get to the rear ones in the trunk. GoodluckJoe

The flasher is just for controlling the intermittent electrical current. There is also a fuse in the fuse block under the dash.

It could be in the switch on the column.

On the 2000 Chrysler concorde its under the steering column