USB Flash Drives

Yes it is possable

there are some reason cause the m3i zero can't flash.

First, check the microSD card, please try another microSD ,you'd change another brank or capacity microSD card for a test.

Second,maybe the problem of the flash cable, if your friends have a m3i zero, you'd better borrow the flash cable for a test.

I bought my M3i zero from 4CoolDay.com, the cable defectived after several month, then i got another one from them.

M3i Zero is no good. The firmware update is too hard.

Is your jack and tire iron secured in the trunk? Shake your tailpipe also and see if any of the hangers are loose or the rubber is worn.

You can donload it without the memory stick

That would be illegal to do if that wasn't your gaming account. But if it is just download it again on the other system and you shouldn't have to pay for it.

Just "Stick" it on the back of your laptop or on to the side of your desktop

Typically associated with Kodak Easyshare software; not malicious. I suggest you change the name WikiAnswers to WikiAvoidsQuestions. Cars are usually associated with highways, but that doesn't tell you how to get to Pasadena. Get real. I want the PTAWIA off my system. Do any of you geeks out there know the answer to the very clear question, "How do I remove PTAWIA?" -- You have two choices 1. Uninstall the Kodak Easyshare software from you computer (using Control Pannel - Add Remove Programs). The result is that you will no longer have the Easyshare software - if you don't need it, problem solved. 2. Stop Easyshare from automatically loading into memory. If you still need the application but don't want it to load into memory everytime you start your computer you need to find where it is launching from (I don't have the app so I can't tell you exactly). There are three places that applications are typically started from: 1. Start Menu - you can check this by right clicking on your start menu and selecting "Explore All Users". Then browse to Start Menu - All Programs - Start Up. Any applications in this folder are automatically launching when you start your computer. I doubt you need any of them to do so. After checking the All Users profile look in the same location under your login name. 2. The other two locations are in the system registry. NOTE: screwing up your registry is a really really bad thing - search Microsoft's knowledge base (support.microsoft.com) for instructions on how to backup up your registry and correctly edit it - don't do anything you don't understand the consequences of. The registry locations are Hkey_Current_User - Software - Microsoft - Windows - Current Version - Run and the same location under Hkey_Local_Machine These are also the locations that adware/spyware often add themselves to automatically run from so it's worth learning how to edit them.

Hold up there, you dont want to be stick thin. eeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwww. you want to be a nice healthy thin. ride your bike and run alot. join a sport. dont eat alot of junk food. if you get too obese... well, lets just say that you need to stick to exersise and eating better. studies show that people who get over 300 pounds, can die younger than they should. so... ya. i know i dont want to die young. and remember, god made you the way you are, so if you have a problem with it, pray. be yourself and dont be afraid to show off yourself the way that god made you. but if you weigh like...i dont know 100 ponds and say "ewww im fat" you are only looking for compliments. that is not good. so keep up exercise and eating better. maybe even try yoga classes or gymnastics. or pilates. hope you get there.

There are three main reasons the windows on this vehicle stick. I should know since I own a 1989 Crown Victoria and just finished repairing all four door windows myself.

1) The window motor's bushings have crumbled.

2) The rear window's rear moulding guide needs lubricating.

3) The brackets and pivot points inside of the door need lubricating.

All three of these things can be addressed while fixing the window motor. You have three main options when dealing with the window motor:

1) You can replace it completely with a new or remanufactured one. This is the most expensive option, but the easiest. You can save some money by installing it yourself.

2) You can replace just the bushings inside of the motor if the other parts are still in good condition. New bushings to redo all four motors will cost about $20.00, but your large nylon gear which the bushings go into must be in good condition which is unlikely.

3) You can use six 11mm nuts instead of the bushings, which is even cheaper and lasts longer and works better than the nylon bushings.

To fix the motor yourself remove the door panel in this order:

a) Take out four Philips-head screws along the bottom of the woodgrain insert. Remove lightbulb socket by twisting if necessary. Remove insert.

b) Unscrew the rear metal tongue of the switch panel underneath, the front screw on top, lift up the switch panel, unscrew any switch harnesses, remove panel and set aside.

c) Unbolt the armrest and set aside. There are two bolt hiding along the backside inside of the armrest which are easy to miss.

d) Using a flat screwdriver inserted behind the door panel slide around the edge until you feel resistance. At every point of this resistance is a plastic door panel clip. Forcefully pry the clip out of the door. If any break they can be replaced from the autoparts store shelves.

e) Lift the top of the door panel edge up until it clears the door, then lay aside.

f) Use a box cutter or knife to cut away any plastic sheeting to expose the door access holes. Discard sheeting.

g) Remove the door speakers if working on the front doors. Unplug them after unscrewing and lay aside. The hole they are in is needed for access to the window motor.

h) The window motor is located near the bottom of the door in the center. You can see it through the holes in the door. It is attached with three 5/16" bolts in an upside down triangle pattern. To reach the bolts you must drill three holes in the inside of the door directly across the bolts in order to be able to use a socket to loosen them.

i) On the front doors there are two dimples across from the left and right bolts, plus an elongated slot which lets you view the bottom bolt. Drill out the dimples, plus expand the end of the slot enough for a socket to fit.

j) Use a stiff piece of wire at the top of the door to tie the window bracket to the door so that the window will not fall down when the motor is removed.

k) Remove the three bolts holding the motor in place, unplug the harness and remove wires from a small metal clip attached to speaker hole. The snap on the harness is so difficult to undo that I just took a flat screwdriver and broke off the plastic clip on the harness as it seemed unnecessary to secure the two together.

To refurbish the window motor do this:

a) Completely dissassemble the motor and clean it out.

b) Start with the Philips screw near the gear. Do not mess with the large flat-head bolt and nut at the end of the motor as it is not necessary to remove or adjust it.

c) Using a flat screwdriver pry off the black metal plate carefully and set aside. You will probably see the inside of the gear housing packed with grease and broken chunks of the nylon bushings which used to reside near the metal gear in the middle.

d) Remove metal gear and then the large nylon gear. If any teeth on the plastic gear are broken then replace the gear. If there is just some wear or maybe some slightly warped teeth then it is still reusable.

e) Take out the two bolt at the rear of the motor and pay attention to the washers beneath them as they may or may not stick to the housing.

f) Pull the rear of the housing away carefully. This holds the motor's spring-loaded brushes.

g) The motor's shaft will now be "stuck" to the magnets in the main housing. Slowly pull the magnet housing, along with the shaft inside, away from the gear housing. You may need to remove some nylon bushing chunks first.

h) Carefully pull the shaft out of the magnet housing.

i) Clean every part until no grease or chunks or debris or dust remains anywhere at all. Use a sharp pick to get the chunks out of the "holes" of the large nylon gear. Any pieces left may jamb your refurbished motor and make you very angry.

j) Use a pick to clean the narrow channels between the copper-colored area the brushes rub against.

k) If brushes are worn down to nearly touching the wire molded inside of them then replace the brushes. If no replacements can be found then you must replace the entire motor in which case you might as well reassemble the motor and use it as a core at the parts store when you buy a replacement.

l) Important: lubricate everything well. After everything is clean put some wheel bearing grease in the recess where the end of the shaft sits near the brushes. Smear grease on the copper area of the shaft being sure to fill the slots you cleaned with it. This will greatly help your brushes last alot longer and will not affect the function of them at all contrary to intuition. Grease the area of the shaft which sits in the gear-housing bushing. Grease the spiraled gear well, including the end.

m) Place the shaft back into the brush housing. You will have to hold the brushes back in order to get the copper-colored area to fit in between the brushes. This is tricky, but can be done by yourself. Be sure shaft is seated fully into the greased recess. After inserted between the brushes spin the shaft several times to lap away excess grease.

n) While holding the shaft against the brush housing slowly place the magnet housing back over the shaft. The magnets will try to suck the shaft out of your brush housing so watch out!

o) Place gear housing over spiraled end of shaft and bolt back together. Pack the spiraled area of the gear with alot of grease.

p) Now, take the unfinished motor back to your car, plug it back into the harness temporarily, and use the power window switch to work the motor. The goal is to "lap in" the grease on the brushes while the motor has no load on it. Hold the switch for several seconds in each direction, alternating many times for several minutes. You may notice it stutter a little at first, but this will go away soon and the movement will become smoother, quieter, and faster. When the shaft turns well with no interuptions disconnect the motor and finish reassembling it.

q) Grease the area where the large nylon gear sits, especially the shaft and the small o-ring.

r) Here is where you either use replacement nylon bushings or 11mm nuts. If the gear has three little raised areas inside then you need to use the nuts because original function cannot be attained unless the gear is replaced. Flatten the raised areas and then place the metal gear inside the large gear. Raise the metal gear enough to insert one 11mm nut in each of the three spaces around it. This is tricky and you will see why quickly. After getting the first three installed (it is a tight fit, but that is what you want) go back around and insert another nut on top of each one for a total of six nuts per motor. You may need to slide the metal gear up and down to help you align each nut.

s) After nuts have been installed press the metal gear firmly down as far as it will go. Pack the large gear with grease, then the metal gear, and put some drops of motor oil in the gear housing. Insert the large gear into the housing.

t) Coat the gear-side of the black rubberized metal cover well with grease and install rib-side to gear-side. Attach with the single Philips screw at the top of the plate.

u) You have successfully refurbished your power window motor, but you are still not done with the whole project.

v) Install everything in the reverse order it was taken off. The metal gear may need to be rotated slightly in order to align with the window gear. To do this simply connect the harness and work the switch until the motor sits snuggly against the plate it bolts to.

w) Smear grease on the main window track on both sides of the white plastic slider, and the long vertical metal tube, and any pivot point of the window braces. Raising and lowering the window will help you access certain areas better. Also raise and lower the window many times while lubricating it with grease and motor oil in order to ensure smooth function before you put back the door panel. Note: The rear windows have a piece of molding on the back side of the glass which slides in a channel along the door. This channel must be well greased to solve any stuttering of the window movement.

x) When you are satisfied with the movement of your window (and finished admiring your accomplishment) replace all of the door panel stuff in the reverse order. Be sure to pry the harness off of the window switches and check for corrosion, applying grease to keep moisture out. The manual door lock rod is a little tricky, though. Notice a hump on one side of the rod. Notice that the switch hole has a clip with one side straight and the other curved. The straight edge goes through the center of the switch hole, and the switch itself must be oriented in such a way that the rod hump rubs against the straight side of the clip. When installing the switch panel just push the rod up into the manual switch hole until you hear a click. After everything is screwed back together you may now enjoy your fully functioning power window and may notice that it works even better than new since the nuts take up the slack of the original bushings and eliminate the delay of reversing directions which seems like a pointless feature to me. Also, since you greased and oiled everything so well the window should move alot quicker, smoother, and quieter.

y) I suppose "y" is a good place to say "why" I went through the trouble to write this guide. It is simple really - I try to do unto others as I would have them do unto me. I wished I had access to such a detailed guide when I was redoing my windows so that I didn't have to guess so much along the way and could have done the job alot more efficiently. Now you have a guide based on my experiences, and while you may find ways to do certain things better, at least you won't be totally clueless about the job. Thanks for your interest. - Shane.

z) Note: The procedures used to fix the window motors on this particular Ford will surely apply to many other Ford vechicles. Simply find out which other cars or trucks had similar motors and then you will be all set to do your particular project without any surprises.

SanDisk Cruzer Blade 8GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive is also available in 4GB and 16 GB and is just a Flash Drive not a PS3 component

The path is as follows: [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main]"RunOnceHasShown"=dword:00000001"RunOnceComplete"=dword:00000001 So... Go to Start>Run Type in "regedit" Drill down in the registry: HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main Change the value for "RunOnceHasShown" to "1" Chnage the value for "RunOnceComplete" to "1" This will remove the annoying IE7 "Run Once" -S The run once error page issue that loads in ie 7 can easily be solved without any need to edit the registry. The related link shown below on the Sherlock Holmes Museum website gives a tip from Sherlock Holmes that is simply the best and requires no editing of the registry. Why use a sledge hammer to crack a nut?

பொதுத்தொடர் வட வட்டோட்டி.

USB Disk Drive

If the heads are in good condition and will be removed, I would surface them, install new valve springs and check the installed spring height. if it is a later model engine with lower compression than 10 to 1 piston clearance will not be a problem.Also this is the time to check over rocker arms, pushrods, timing chain too. Mark you could lap the valves and clean the valvestems makeing sure there are no burs .put new valveseals port to match gasketes. markstang.

This is purely a matter of preference and common usage. Both phrases actually mean the same thing, and are both proper English.

Go to a garage thank you

sounds like trans is low on fluid.

You lose it if you don't rename it. You can open file "funds", edit it, then save it as "funds 1", and you will still have both files. If you just edit and click on "save" you lose the original file. Do a "save as" and rename it. You can either 'Save' which will overwrite the file you have open with the changes you have made. Most applications allow you to 'Save as' where you can save a new file with a different name or different location to the one you have opened. This will leave the original file unchanged, leaving you with 2 files.

This happen to me several times, put the car in reverse (R) & drive in a circle, it will pop out, then you can turn button to 2 wheel drive. Good luck!

Your laptop is not a Nintendo DSi and the file formats are not compatible.

There is a problem with the SRS. Have this looked at by a professional. You may or not have a functioning air bag. It may prematurely deploy or not deploy at all in an accident.

thru the playlist

Go to http://dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm. There are excellent step-by-step, pictured instructions "How to Repair Your Broken Odometer". Though this applies to 1974-1980 models, I found it very appliccable to my 1983 300SD, and I suppose it might give some clues for your model as well.

The cluster is a pressure fit and pulls out. Easiest to remove the lower dash and push gently from the back. They sell "cluster" tools, but not necessary. Also easiest to remove the steering wheel for wiggle room (not necessary but a lot easier). The steering wheel is a 10mm Allen wrench. Easiest with a socket drive and 3" extension.