VW Golf

In the radiator.

Install a block heater and keep it plugged in at night. (most helpful)

Make sure the vehicle is tuned up and that the engine compression is up to specifications.

Have the electrical system checked to verify that the battery is fully charged.

Periodically (every few fill-ups) add a can of fuel line de-icer.

many people are having the same or similar problems as you, tbi systems need a certain amount of fuel pressure to function about 9-13 psi and when the fuel pump wears out it loses pressure making the computer raise the idle speed and when you give it gas the pump can't supply enough fuel pressure for the injectors to fire and the engine responds by stalling. i think your problem here is the fuel pump in the tank. but before you change it check the fuel pressure and change the fuel filter (if you havn't already) and clean the idle air control valve, that was also a problem on these engines. happy to help, Randy

Have the driveshafts checked, it could be as simple as the rubber dustcap neding replacement or as complicated as one of the splined ends of the shaft needing replacement. Ed Pearse Also you could check to see if you have water inside the air vent piping

remove the radio of the car than it will be a # on the radio call your locar vw service dealer to ask for the code.

replace rotors, or on some newer gm's it might be bad ft. hub from abs

Yes, Mine broke and the engine runs just fine now, after new gears of course.

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00

just under the steering wheel

This can usually be accomplished in your own driveway or appartment parking space.

You can't. When they make those things, they fill the box with epoxy - a process called potting. It makes the computer more reliable, but also impossible to repair.

I would suspect that your lock mechanism is worn, so that when you double click the remote unlock the lever does not engage properly. A decent mechanic should be able to order the parts and fix this in a day or so.

The bearing of a point B, from a point A, is based on the angle that the straight line AB makes with the line AN which goes due North from A. The angle is measured in the clockwise direction and is normally expressed as a 3 digit number (including leading zeros).

tie rod. (aka steering knuckle) take your tire off. take the cotter pin out then unbolt the end, of the tie rod end that connects behind your brake rotor shield. mark the inner nut that holds the steering knuckle onto the inner tie rod with white out. you shouldn't have to get an alignment then. its easy. tighten the crap out of the 2 nuts you take off. don't forget to get a new cotter pin.

This switch is the top one around the thermostat housing, If you look down beside the air filter, right beside the rad hose, on 2.3 l engine, there it is. You can unplug the wire and put a paper clip into the plug to ground out the 2 wires, fan will come on, if the fan does not come on, then look elsewhere for you problem. Check the plug near the fan.

== == You have probably made a mess of the on-board computer. Cutting wires and then rejoining them causes the computer to react badly. You need a professional automotive electrical specialist, one who only does car electrical system work. He will charge you by the hour to first diagnose the problem, then to make it right again. This is the penalty that you will have to pay for trying to to it yourself, without the proper knowledge and skills. It will cost you money, but hopefully this will be a big lesson for you. Leave the skilled stuff to the pros, who know what they are doing, and do the simple stuff like an oil change, or car wash, your self.

you probably have a broken piston ring that is supposed to keep the oil out of the cylinder bore, the oil goes through and is burned with the gas.

What Shady Mechani pointed out could cause it and the tell tale sign would be a blueish tint to your exhaust fumes. Another reason could be a dirty oil filter, a PCV valve that needs to be replaced, and last but not least slug build up in the engine. The last will require an engine flush. A good one would be Auto-Rx.

My 1995 buick regal (3.8) has developed a problem when started.The oil level monitoring warning light stays on after the engine is running. I can shut off the motor and do a restart and the light will stay off,but every time the vehicle sits for any period of time with the motor off I go thru the same process again (light on at start up/turn off and restart and the light stays off)The oil level is up to par and the filter is clean and new. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Faulty oil pressure switch would be my guess, same thing with my Previa. Replace the cheap switch and see if it is a more expensive problem.

Take the car to your nearest VW garage n get the thing serviced - If a service is needed! Otherwise: Note: the Service Reminder Indicator displays 3 messages: OEL, IN 01, and IN 02. These display to alert the driver to follow the items listed under the manufacturer's service interval. To reset the message displays, turn the ignition switch on. Press and hold the odometer reset button "A" located below the speedometer. Turn off the ignition while holding the button. "OEL" will display on the indicator. Press and hold the lower digital clock reset button "B" until five dashes appear in the display. If needed, press the odometer reset button until "IN 01" appears and then press the clock reset button until five dashes appear. If needed, press the odometer reset button until "IN 02" is displayed and then press the clock reset button until five dashes appear. To exit reset mode, turn the ignition switch on and when "IN 01" appears, turn the ignition switch off.

as with all front bearings on any car it is usually easiar to remove the hub by undoing the ball joint ,trackrod end and usaully suspension off the hub but i would imagine that the bearing has to be pressed so the hub will have to be taken to a garage or someone with a bearing press so if you are not mechanically minded i would take the car straight to a garage and save yourself alot of hardwork.

Check the wiring. Probably got a short. It could be a short, however, if your tail lights are illuminated, then you might rule out a short. You might also check your fuse for the brake lights. If the fuse is good, then you should check your brake light switch. It is probably a small box-like object attached to the brake pedal arm. To check the switch, you will need a circuit tester or testlight. The switch has two wires. One of the wires will be hot (have current all the time). Locate the hot lead. The other side should not be hot. Now, depress the brake and check the other side. If it is now hot, the brake light switch is good. If you have tail lights, and if the fuse is good, and the brake switch is good, then the problem may be in your turn signal. Hopefully, you have a blown fuse.

It could well be the Idle Control Valve Or in other terms the Idle Stabilation Valve is faulty

Approx 10k

yes there is.

estimated between $307 and $387 while parts are priced between $384 and $495.