VW Golf

The specific procedure may vary by model year... VW Volkswagen Golf sidemarker light bulb lamp replacement procedure: Purchase the correct replacement side marker light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the side marker light bulb lamp replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations.

9a gearbox

This is most likely due to a brake warning light switch failure. There is a recall on many vw vehicles for this and is typically a free replacement. Another sign is that your brake lights and cruise control don't work.

Several reasons.....,I also had 1....It could be that you are running too lean when hot or still running too rich I think the rich problem is more commen,The FI system looks at engine temp makes conditions slightly richer when cold to enable smooth acceleration when cold,Hot high revving engines dont like to run rich as it makes the explosion slower therefore the burning process is slower therefore less power.Have your ECU and all sensors checked at a by a knowledgable mech.Could also be fuel pump...when petrol warms up the pump wich could be worn starts "Slipping" therefore not delivering the correct pressure and or flow at the injectors,could be crappy old injectors not spraying the fine mist they supposed to anymore.Check your fuel pressure regulator.Could be a faulty knock sensor....These MP9 sustems also have a kreep home mode,if a sensor or 2 is malfunctioning the ecu puts the car in kreep mode to enable you to kreep to a service centre..

Special Edition

"No, they will not, your wheel specs are:

Bolt Pattern 5x100

Stock Offset +35 e.t.

Hub Bore 57.1mm

...and those specs. do not match up with the 5X114.3 lug pattern mustangs are equipped with.

Chris Young - AmericanMuscle Customer Service Representative "

He is correct about the wheel specs, but if you still wanted to put mustang wheels on your Gti you could use wheel adapters going from the 5x100 bolt pattern to the 5x114.3 lug pattern...

AUTOZONE.COM has all vehicle wiring diagrams. They have all kind of knowledge for most cars. Check it out! It is worth the look.

I was able to replace the drivers side bulb without removing the battery. Two clips can be challenging. The first is the one holding the bulb in place. It is hard to see and reach. To release it, push is slightly in toward the bulb and then down; it easily releases this way. The secret to putting the wire snap back on is to engage the top of the wire in the hole first before sliding it back over the cover. Don't try to put the wire back over the cover and forcing the top of the wire into the hole (like I did). This won't work and causes great frustration. If you put it in the hole first and then move the wire over the cover, it is easy.

There is a cover behind the lamps that is clamped down with a metal wire. Slide that wire to the side and pull out the cover. The lamps are in a plug-in fixture. You will have to take the battery out if the lamp is on the driver's side. Just don't force anything too hard and you should be okay.

As stated above, there is a cover on the back of each headlight housing that must be removed. However, you usually don't have to remove the battery. Unplug the harness from the bulb. The bulb is held in with a spring-like wire. Slide this up or down and it releases the bulb. Put the new one in in reverse order, being careful not to touch the glass or force it. Bulbs are pressurized.

if you do happen to touch or get dirt on the bulb during installation, I use 99% isopropanol (rubbing alcohol), that you can get at Safeway, to clean it.

To replace the low beam bulb (H-7) on a 2002 Golf diesel TDI do the following: If the defective bulb is on the driver's side, first remove the plastic cover identified by a logo symbol for a light bulb (circle with rays). It is held down by two Phiilips screws. Then remove the battery cover. This will give you enough room to work in the headlight compartment (unless you have unusually large hands). Next, remove the wire snap on the headlight cover plate and slide the cover to the left and out of the compartment. You now have access to the plug for the lamp. Remove the plug and as described earlier, slide the left side of the spring clip (which holds the lamp in place) down and let it open. Remove the defective bulb and replace it with the new one, being careful to handle it by the prongs, do not touch the glass. The bulb fits in place with its metal tang in the 12oclock position. As indicated in earlier answers, just reverse the procedure to close it back up. You may have to use a flashlight when replacing the headlight cover plate so you can see the two slots that the right end has to go into. My hat is off to FAQ Farmers for running a really useful, consumer friendly website. Many thanks.

1. If the burned out bulb is on the drivers side, remove the plastic cover identified by a logo symbol for a light bulb (a circle with rays coming off it). It's held in place with two Phillips screws.

2. Remove the battery cover from the battery. This should provide enough space to work in the headlight compartment.

3. Move the wire snap on the headlight plate cover to release the headlight plate cover. The gauge of the wire is a little heavier than a heavy gauge coat hanger wire. It's a clip that pivots to the inside of the car, and releases the headlight plate cover. The headlight plate cover is about the size of an average book - maybe 8" x 6" (20.3 x 15.2 cm). Once the headlight plate cover is unclipped, it slides toward the inside of the car, and can be removed. This provides access to the headlight compartment.

4. It may be necessary to unplug the headlight bulb before removing the wire snap that holds the headlight bulb in place. Not sure if that is true on all Golfs. But with the headlight plate cover off, unplug the low beam headlight bulb (which should be on the outside edge of the car).

5. Then, to remove the bulb, slide the inside edge of the spring clip (right side for the passenger side bulb, left side for the driver side) that holds the headlight bulb in place down, and let it pop open.

6. Holding the headlight bulb by the two prongs, remove the old bulb, and replace it with the new bulb, being careful to only handle it by the prongs. If the glass is accidentally touched, or gets dirty, clean it with isopropanol/rubbing alcohol. There is a small metal prong no more than 1/8" (0.3 cm) sticking out from the otherwise circular disk surrounding the bulb. Be sure that is positioned in the 12 o'clock position (pointing straight up).

7. Reverse the procedure to close everything back up. A flashlight may be necessary to see two slots the headlight plate cover goes into to close up properly.

NOTES: I had a little difficulty uncliping the wire snap for the headlight plate cover on the drivers side of my Golf. An old screw driver or a small pry bar can be used to lift the wire away from the headlight plate cover, making it easier to unclip the wire.

I don't know how necessary it was, but I also noted which of the two wires was on top when I unplugged the headlight bulb, so I could replace everything the same way. You may want to remember that when changing out the bulbs on your car.

No. You may want to buy a book though on how to do it. A car parts store will have repair manuals for about $16.00. You can also check out the Public Library for info.

hi i have a t4 vr6 with same probs if u find a remedy please post

You either press and hold the mode button or there should be an H or M button you can press

WRONG......Front wheel bearing replacement or repack is a pain in the butt. Best left for a trained technician. The last time I took mine for a brake test, the mechanic told me Toyota does not make them with wheel bearings Of course the truck has wheel bearings. Pull off the brake calipers and rotors and the spindle nut and the hub should slide out of the backing plate the bearing should come out of the hub. Your bearings should come in a set with a race; the race will have to be pressed out of the hub and the new race pressed in. Put it all back how it came apart.

If the tensioner isn't working right, you replace it. Tension is determined by the tensioner and is not adjustable.

Marker light is spring loaded into New Beetle...it is a complete assembly...be careful not to crack the lens cover...

Very carefully(to avoid scratching paint) use a flat head screwdriver to pry entire assembly out of bumper...start prying on the side facing closest to the front of the vehicle ...

Light bulb wiring harness can now be easily accessed. Pop marker light assembly back into bumper...You are good to go!!!

if you have a paperclip. there are two holes in the dashboard. you can set the time there.

It is your starter. It's not going out. Just a manufacturing flaw. Mine does the same.

No need to worry.

yes as long as the the end that bolts on to the gear box are the same. it will either be a round end or a star

it will plug straight in as i done it with my mk2 golf and it plugged straight in and worked and my mate done it with his mk3 there will be wires for it i hope this helps

My understanding is that it's spring loaded and only requires a solid tug and 1/2.

** I can say from first-hand experience, ( Oct. 3, 2012) that no matter the hard "tugging" and anything else I did to make this move ( stem part only- mirror had fallen apart thus needing replacement); until I lost my temper with it, and yanked HARD, many times, did the stem move. There is no way to push in, and no way to pull backwards ( bad directions off another site) -Even then it only tipped up ( giving me hope). So I kept on and finally the stem popped off. It is held in place by a strong spring that has two pins that fit between a metal sections at the ends ( like a toilet paper roll with a spring in the center). Once off, the base is held on my three screws.

Looking at the base, it seems there has to be a tool Mercedes uses to remove these stems from the bases as it isn't easy to do otherwise. Two screws had actually snapped off the base and one was bent from my pulling off the stem. I can't believe Mercedes used such crappy screws that fell apart; and they looked to be flat-head wood screws, not even metal screws. I believe these are all over the car, as the latch inside the glove box also was held (or not- had to be re-attached) by these same flimsy screws. Now that the mirror is off and the base is back in place, getting the new stem to "pop" back into the base seems to be the next challenge. I couldn't get it to pop on easily at all. The plan is to use something and firmly (tap/pound) it into place. A rubber mallet with something against the stem base and one or more "taps" I am hoping will do the trick. This is a 1990 190e and everything plastic is literally falling to pieces: the mirror itself fell apart, the control buttons, seat control buttons, dash panel, center console; it's still better to fix, replace, and use the car ( if I can get it to consistently run) than get rid of it.

I found a very thorough answer to this on Edmunds.com, check the 'related links' below. This is what it says:

Electric-/hydraulic convertible top pertains to a closed hydraulic system. As a rule, a filling is only required after opening hydraulic circuit (e.g. after replacing parts).

Remove CD player if installed.

Remove screws of left luggage compartment trim and remove trim.

To fill, convertible top must be opened, actual oil level can only be determined when in an opened state.

Remove oil filler plug.

Oil for convertible top hydraulics: G002 000.

Top off hydraulic oil only until oil level is between "Min" and "Max" marking.

Use a fill container for filling hydraulic oil.

Fill container must only be used exclusively for this purpose in order to prevent hydraulic oil impurities by other oils.

Screw oil filler plug tightly (5 Nm ).

its about 208kmt

No. Different pattern

11mm according to Bentley Manual

That depends... What does the noise sound like? Where does it seems to come from? Does it only happen at certain speeds? When shifting gears? When braking? When turning? When accelerating? Is there a vibration with the noise? This question can not be honestly answer without being a lot more descriptive. My car is making a clicking noise when accelerating...it sounds like a can of marbles...what can be causing this to happen. It has been doing it for 4 years and no one seems to ever know where it is coming from. Could it be from the crankshaft? answer mabe the cam shaft or the lifters not the crankshaft more likely to be a leak around the exhaust manifold

Best to have this done by reputable repair shop or a dealer. Some bearings have to be Pressed OFF and this can be a bear.. Some SHAFTS have to come out to do this. Make sure the Bearing Is Leaking, and NOT The "WHEEL Cylinder".. Its Cheaper to Rebuild or Replace the Brake Cylinder than the Bearing.. The Smell of Brake Fluid is different than the SMELL of GEAR Oil. Get A second Opiniuon BEFORE Any Wheels or Drums come off.... to be SURE!! -caryb