VW Golf

maybe the switch is broken or the fuse/relay has gone??

Renault in Clapham Bedfordshire quoted me £900.00 for mine to be changed. I eventualy used a non-Renault garage who changed it for half the cost.

We need to know what kind of a noise it is in order to tell you if it is a strange noise...

The haynes or bentley manual can answer this question for you. The haynes manual is around 25 dollars and the bentley around 60.00. First you disconnect your negative bat cable. I have changed mine and mainly it involves CAREFULLY prying off the light switch assembly to your left with a very small screwdriver, Try prying from the bottom or top first, I found that the spot mentioned in the manual is not necessarily right. Then the same for the small dash trim piece to your right. Unscrewing the "shroud is next. It has 2 screws, one on either side. Then you gently Pop it out of where it is held in by its plastic tabs, again be gentle. Maneuver it out slowly and patiently, they crack easily.You will then be looking at your barenaked cluster. it has two screws on either side top right and top left not easily visible without a flashlight. It is likewise held in by two slots in which two cylindrical pivots are built onto the cluster. Take out the screws and set them aside making sure not to mix any screws up at all, as collar, trim and cluster screws are all different types. you will now tilt your cluster toward you and if you are lucky you will have small hands because you must reach over top left of the cluster to unclip the wiring harnesses of which there are two one below the other. They are color coded and different sizes so remember which came from where. You will have to press on them pinching them with your thumb and most likely your ring finger if you are right handed to unclip them. Slowly work them out if they are sticking. Once they are detached you can now do the most difficult part, lightly pull the cluster up from below and it will pop out of its pivots then carefully maneuver the thing out of the dash, this is most difficult because it fits very tightly behind the steering wheel. You may need to try it a couple of ways before you get it out. Once out, flip it toward you. You will see lots of little 6 sided colored plastic things. These are all bulbs. There are 2 isolated directly at the top a few inches from one another and likely different colors then the tight row at the bottom turn them gently with your fingers if you can and with small pliers if you cannot and about a half turn lift them out. Installation is the reverse except getting the harnesses back on is harder than getting them off, but not hard if you are patient and can envision where you are plugging them in. You will be working "blind" when you plug them in. The bulbs are only 3 or 4 bucks the labor in a shop will likely cost you 60 bucks or more, so DIY if you can. Happy changing. Goyette

The camshaft TDC mark is located on the camshaft side of the pulley wheel. When the mark is level with the front reinforcing strip on the camshaft cover the camshaft will be at TDC.

The curb weight of the 2002 Volkswagen Golf is 2771 lbs..

behind the hazard switch in center of dash . just pulls out . clean with some contact cleaner and will be as good as new .

The camshaft sensor is located in the distributor. I believe you have to replace the hole distributor.

THE BRAKE FLUID IS BELOW MINIMUM LEVEL IF THIS WARNING LIGHT COMES ON

spark plugs fouled with oil. blue smoke from tail pipe.

The front track of the 2002 Volkswagen Golf is 4 ft. 11.6 in. (59.6 in.).

The Service Reminder Indicator (SRI) is fitted to all 2000 EuroVans It stores two sets of information: Oil Change and Inspection Service. Here is the method to manually reset the SRI after performing a service: Switch ignition OFF.

Press and hold down the trip odometer reset button (at the lower right of the instrument cluster).

Switch ignition ON and release the trip odometer reset button. It is not necessary to start the engine; merely turn the key until the ignition is ON.

The trip mileage area now displays "Service OIL".

If trip odometer reset button is now pressed again, the display turns to "Service INSP". Pressing the button again will cycle the display back to "Service OIL".

When the reminder that needs to be reset (either OIL or INSP) is displayed, turn button for setting the clock (at lower left of instrument cluster) to the right. The display changes to "Service ----". That reminder is now reset.

The second reminder is unaffected unless it is displayed by pressing trip odometer reset button and the clock button is turned right again.

Switch ignition OFF and back ON to resume normal display.

Please help me locate the thermostat on a 2000 Nissan altima

a "Swat" or "SWAT" in golf is another word for a "scramble" or "best ball" tournament.

You actually shout 'Fore'. It's to warn people in front of you.

This is for 1996 during which time there were unlikely any major changes

Cooling System (2) ............. 1.9 TD 6.5L (6.8 qt.)

1.8 Gas 5.5L (5.8 qt.)

2L Eng. 5.8L (6.1 qt.)

2.8 V6 10L (10.6 qt.)

i believe Golf Tdi S is the sports model and Golf Tdi se is sedan model.

Insurance comes in two basic types, damages that you cause to others and damages that others did not cause or will not pay for, meaning: Damages you cause to others is called a "liability" insurance policy. The insurance company will pay up to a preset maximum amount for any damages you might cause with your vehicle. Damages tht others did not cause or will not pay for is usually called "comprehensive", meaning that the insurance company will cover some of YOUR costs if your vehicle is damaged. Different types of coverage include: weather related, the other guy was a hit and left the scene, unattended vehicle damage where the other driver just left, damages to your vehicle caused by an uninsured motorist and damages to your vehicle because you did something wrong yourself, including a slide off because of icy weather. Other vehicle expenses include payments, maintenance, repairs, fuel and often parking. Maintenance and repairs are two separate categories because one is an expected expense and the other is not. You know that you need to routinely change oil, filters and lube the chassis, that you need to periodically replace tires and wiper blades, bulbs, batteries and other items that have a set life expectancy. Repairs, however, can be very expensive and unexpected. If something goes wrong with a radiator hose (another maintenance item) and you loose the engine coolant, the engine can get so hot that it can crack or warp the head. That can be several hundred dollars and up to a thousand or more, depending on the type of vehicle. Owning and operating a vehicle is not cheap.

1) Either your cable is frayed inside the cable sheath. (inexpensive, oil the new cable and sheath on replacement)

2)Or the clutch "push-rod" is wearing through the plate and in a short while will fail and need a new clutch. (expensive)

3)Or the little lever on the last housing has slipped on its splined shaft and you need a new one (inexpensive)

SRS malfunctioning. Take the vehicle to the dealer for repair.

take the vehicle to a dealer

Disconnect the DRL resistor. It is located on the driver side of the engine bay behind the airbox. You may have to remove the air box. The DRL resistor resembled a "U" shape. You cannot miss it.

In my case, both horns were bad... one had unknowingly been bad when I purchased the suburban a few months ago and the second failed a few weeks ago, hence silence when depressing the horn pad. I first tested for power at the horn unit. When my 11 year old daughter pressed the horn, using a tester at the plug end, 12 volts were read at the right side horn unit. This test told me all relays and fuses were fine and both horn units were bad. I purchased a low and high tone horn on line. Replacing the right side (passenger side) was simple. You only need a 10 mm socket on your back in front of the front wheel. Remove the single bolt and unplug. "REMEMBER, you will need the plug adapter from the original horn unit. Be careful in removing this, prying the tabs back and up so the adapter can be reused. Installation is the reverse of the removal. Replacing the left side (driver side) was more work, but not difficult. Process included: a) remove the battery, b) remove the battery tray, c) (Lower washer reservoir unit) remove the washer unit reservoir upper bolt. Now under the vehicle in front of the left front wheel, d) carefully remove the 2 plastic fasteners which hold the lower washer reservoir to the tire shrowd, e) remove the lower bolt on the washer reservoir unit (don't let this fall), f) unplug each of the three reservoir plugs, g) lower the reservoir unit and let it rest on a box or small bucket. You do NOT need to remove it or detatch the hoses h) back on top, reach down and remove the "Nut" which fastens the horn to the horn bracket (I did not remove the bracket like I did on the right side) i) carefully unplug the horn wire harness j) install the plug adapter onto the new horn and then the new horn unit (note: I was only able to point the horn opening toward the side of the car directly at a support bracket but the horn sounds fine even in this position k) install and tighten the nut attaching the horn unit to the bracket. Now under the car again l) raise the washer reservoir unit and install the 3 plugs, m) install the lower reservoir bolt, n) install the upper reservoir bolt, o) install batter tray (note: I used some "extend" on the tray to arrest some minor rust..optional of course), p) install battery q) install plastic lower reservoir fasteners r) Test .... good luck. Ben Mansi

The gas tank on the 2006 Volkswagen Golf holds 14.5 gal..