Radiators

take off the plastic covers under the front of the engine. then you will see a small hose on the passnger side of the car that runs down from the lower radiator hose around the passenger side of the engine. simply use pliars to loosen the clamp and pull off that hose. make sur to have a bucket there, and the fluid won't drain good until you remove the radiator cap under the hood.

Just below the lower radiator hose is the drain plug. Be careful and do not use force as it is plastic. jd

As long as it is for aluminum any antifreeze will work you just cut it 50/50 with water .

Hose has become brittle from age Hose clamp has cut into hose

Radiator? Plug? turn clockwise Petcock? Turn counterclockwise to close

It is on the passenger side engine compartment, towards the front grill.

Radiator drain plug is located on the bottom of the radiator on the passanger side. you may have to remove the lower splash shield to gain full access to the plug. to open the plug turn it 180` and pull out.

If you're not loosing fluid then the probable cause is the electric fan sensor which should cut in when the engine temp gets high enough. This is normally fitted to the top or side of the radiator [not sure of position on scoobies]. The easiest test is first to see if the fan will run by disconnecting the two wires from this sensor and connecting them together, the fan should kick in, [or run the engine at approx 2000rpm for 10mins or so until it gets hot enough to get the switch to turn the fan on]. If the fan doesn't run when you use the engine running method then the sensor prob' needs changing, if the fan doesn't run when using the wires connected method then it's a fan fault, may be as simple as a bad/broken connection from fan to frame or broken wire / fuse blown on the feed to the fan. Hope this helps.

it is at the bottom of the Radiator on either the left or the right side...it is a plastic or metal threaded tab

the sensor that turns them on could be bad or the fan motors them self could be bad

It is possible, however like you said it is temporary. It depends on how bad the leak is. I would suspect it would work, typically the whole will be small enough to work with that type of sealant.

Remove the two piece rad shroud,remove fan and fan clutch. Remove both rad hoses, if you have a automatic trans you will need to remove the trans cooler lines. The rad will be easy to remove at this point. The hardest part can be removing the trans cooler lines; a quality flare nut wrench must be used because otherwise you will strip the hex off the line.

near the thermostat housing

First, un plug the wire at the fan, jump the wire and see if the fan does work. If it does, trace the wire back to the sensor, there are only 2 sensors, 1 for temp gauge, and 1 for the fan.

Radiators are priced so low now that it would be hard to find someone to repair it.

Yes. Never add pure antifreeze. Pure antifreeze will actually freeze before a 50/50 mix. Add coolant that is a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. You can buy it already pre-mixed.

1. Open drain plug at the bottom of the rad and drain the rad. 2. Remove the fan and its wire connectors. 3. Disconnect the upper and lower rad hoses. 4. If automatic transmission, disconnect transmission cooler lines with correct size FLARE wrench (very important to use a flare wrench, using a regular open wrench will twist the lines). 5. Remove the fan shield if there is one. 6. Remove the rad and shroud by lifting straight up. 7. Install new rad and transfer any fittings from the old one. 8. Connect lines and hoses and fan. 9. Refill rad run and test. If you lost some automatic transmission fluid from the lines, check your ATF level just in case.

Remove The Radiator And Take It To a Good Radiator Shop. Most Likely Yours Can Be Cleaned And Repaired. When You Reinstall It, Add New Antifreeze Plus Water Pump Lubricant. This Will Help Stop Corrosion. Good Luck

The cooling system can be pressurized using a cooling system pressure tester. When engine is cool remove the fill cap and attach the tester, since caps are different styles on many vehicles an adapter may be needed. Pump the tester up until the maximum pressure (most caps have max psi on them) of the cooling sytem is reached. If there is a fast leak the max psi may not need to be obtained before the leak is revealed. There is a video at DenLorsTools.com in the tech article section that shows a pressure tester being used, it also has information about purging air from the cooling system after the leak has been repaired.

there should be a pitcock on bottom of radiator to drain it. or take the bottom radiator hose with motor cold of course .

A 50/50 mix of coolant and water generally gives you protection down to 30 degrees below 0 F.

NO! That would be dangerous.

Cars' coolant systems are pressurized, so if you open the radiator cap while the engine is running, it will spray HOT radiator fluid (water mixed with ethylene glycol, usually) all over you, and sometimes drain the radiator of coolant.

The coolant has to be going somewhere. If you don't see puddles on the ground then the coolant is going through the engine via a bad head gasket or cracked head. Look for evidence of coolant muck (mixed oil and coolant) under the engine oil cap and on the engine oil dipstick. Have the cooling system pressure tested asap. The longer you continue to drive this vehicle, the more it is going to cost to repair.

It can cost between $60 and $200 to replace a radiator on a 1995 Isuzu Trooper. The cost depends on the brand of the part, and the cost of labor for the person doing the work.