Air Filters and Intake Manifolds

Take my advice here on this part replacement...... Take your ES300 into your Lexus dealer and have them replace and install. There's more to it than a "do it yourself" in the driveway repair. Genuine Lexus part cost about $200 and one hour labor. Without the proper codes fed into your car computer and proper adjustment....... A total malfunction of this parts can cause more proplems than the mer $300 to replace.

With your hood open, see the top of your intake? see the plastic/rubber hose attached to it, follow that back to the big square box, usually but not always located near the inside drivers fender, that square box houses your air cleaner, it will either have 4 Phillips head screws holding the top lid down, or 2-4 latches that can be popped up, remove the top cover, and behold your square air cleaner. Hope this helps.

if you figure this out please call me i had the heads resurfaced and gaskets replaced and the same thing is happening to my f250 6.8l v10 1999 8317068926

I have a '94. Assuming it's in the same place, you will find it just to the left of the center of the engine as you are looking down on it from the front of the car. You'll see a rubber hose about 1/2" in diameter that connects into it. It should be very easily accessible, about as easy to remove as the dipstick.

Purchase a Purolator Cabin Filter. It comes with detailed instructions.

if there is any play at all in the bearing on the tensioner,it needs replacing. also if you hae the correct new serpentine belt and the tensioner does not keep the belt tight when installed properly,you need new tensioner

You're talking about the air drier, and it'll either be under the hood, on the right hand side of the vehicle, towards the front, or in front of the #2 axle, on the right hand side of the vehicle.

I was just quoted 5.5 hours labor to R&R the intake gasket on my 1998 GMC Sierra 5.7 Liter.

You need to purchase a Haynes Manual that is for your particular car. You can get it at a bookstore or a parts house.

notes: i replaced my filters when purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. they were nasty. be prepared to clean a bit. i replace my filters every couple years.

the operation takes about 45 minutes for amateur like me, assuming there have been no significant changes in filter location & design or dash design since 2000 model:

1) purchase new filters. there should be 2 hepafilters per package. they're approx 4"X8" and quite pricey. you'll also need the following tools: Phillips & flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, vice grip pliers, flashlight, approx 12" length of coat hangar wire (optional), shopvac with needlenose attachment (optional), can of lysol (optional), ballpoint pen (optional).

2) empty and remove glove box - located two sliding pivots at bottom and outside of glove box door. slide the 2 plastic latches inward and pull the glove box toward you a few inches. locate the cable eye that attaches the glove box door to the counterweight. have the vice grips ready to clamp onto the cable that holds the counterweight, then remove the eye from the peg on the glove box door.

3) use Phillips screwdriver to carefully back out the plastic screws in the right side kick panel. you may have to remove one or two screws from the carpet edging in doorway.

4) looking at the side of the heater box, locate the vertical edges of the filters. the filters are held in place with a metal clip at bottom. its been awhile since I've replaced these - there may be one at the top, as well. use flat blade screwdriver/pliers to carefully remove the clips and keep them handy, as they'll be reused.

5) pull out the bottom filter first, then slide the top one down and pull it straight out. you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard or paper towels, these can be quite nasty. match the old filters to the new ones to ensure you have the right ones. if so, dispose of the old ones. this exposes the heater core, which is quite fragile. its also expensive and a real pain to replace, so be careful.

6) using pliers, bend a 90-degree angle in the coat hangar wire, about 1" from the end. using the flashlight to aim, CAREFULLY clean the slot at the bottom of the air box. use the shopvac needlenose attachment to clean out any filtrate that has been left in the airbox. you can use the lysol at this point to spray down that area of the air box, which is a haven for mold and mildew in humid climes.

7) open the bag with new filters and note how the edges fit one upon the other. note that one can slip in along the edge of the other. that's how you will need to install them. slide in the upper one first and hold it at the top of the slot with one hand while sliding in the second (bottom one). replace the clamp. if desired, use ball point pen to note date and mileage on the decal supplied with new filters. peel and stick the decal to the edge of the filter.

8) replace other parts in reverse order.

Good luck!

-j

notes: i replaced my filters when purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. they were nasty. be prepared to clean a bit. i replace my filters every couple years.

the operation takes about 45 minutes for amateur like me, assuming there have been no significant changes in filter location & design or dash design since 2000 model:

1) purchase new filters. there should be 2 hepafilters per package. they're approx 4"X8" and quite pricey. you'll also need the following tools: Phillips & flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, vice grip pliers, flashlight, approx 12" length of coat hangar wire (optional), shopvac with needlenose attachment (optional), can of lysol (optional), ballpoint pen (optional).

2) empty and remove glove box - located two sliding pivots at bottom and outside of glove box door. slide the 2 plastic latches inward and pull the glove box toward you a few inches. locate the cable eye that attaches the glove box door to the counterweight. have the vice grips ready to clamp onto the cable that holds the counterweight, then remove the eye from the peg on the glove box door.

3) use Phillips screwdriver to carefully back out the plastic screws in the right side kick panel. you may have to remove one or two screws from the carpet edging in doorway.

4) looking at the side of the heater box, locate the vertical edges of the filters. the filters are held in place with a metal clip at bottom. its been awhile since I've replaced these - there may be one at the top, as well. use flat blade screwdriver/pliers to carefully remove the clips and keep them handy, as they'll be reused.

5) pull out the bottom filter first, then slide the top one down and pull it straight out. you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard or paper towels, these can be quite nasty. match the old filters to the new ones to ensure you have the right ones. if so, dispose of the old ones. this exposes the heater core, which is quite fragile. its also expensive and a real pain to replace, so be careful.

6) using pliers, bend a 90-degree angle in the coat hangar wire, about 1" from the end. using the flashlight to aim, CAREFULLY clean the slot at the bottom of the air box. use the shopvac needlenose attachment to clean out any filtrate that has been left in the airbox. you can use the lysol at this point to spray down that area of the air box, which is a haven for mold and mildew in humid climes.

7) open the bag with new filters and note how the edges fit one upon the other. note that one can slip in along the edge of the other. that's how you will need to install them. slide in the upper one first and hold it at the top of the slot with one hand while sliding in the second (bottom one). replace the clamp. if desired, use ball point pen to note date and mileage on the decal supplied with new filters. peel and stick the decal to the edge of the filter.

8) replace other parts in reverse order.

Good luck!

-j

Its next to the carborator it could be round or square if its a new model its mage out of sponge and you can rinse it clean with water then add a little motor oil to it to help colect dirt> If its an older model it could be made on paper in that case you can blow it clean with air or lightly bang it clean but the paper ones should be replaced when dirty

The intake manifold is where fuel and air are mixed on non fuel injected models. The air comes in and the fuel is droped by the carb. which then go to the cylinders. On fuel injected models, only air comes in the intake which then the computer takes over and the fuel is injected right in the cylinder. ( called port injection ) On throttle body models, both air and fuel are mixed in the intake, then off to the cylinder.

yes

Open the engine hood.

The cabin filter is located underneath the weather stripping on the passenger side.

Unscrew four screws and pull out the filter frame.

Re-seat them again and make sure the O-rings are new replacements for a proper seal

Agree: I had two go bad in my '96. Replaced them both and used new O rings. It solved the problem. My mechanic used some Vasaline type stuff to lube the O rings when she installed them. I don't know if this is absolutely necessary or not, but they

never leaked after we twisted on the injectors a little bit to get the O rings really seated. If the injector still leaks, I'd replace it. It's a $75 part, but worth the piece of mind and the improved gas mileage. Use a new O ring if you do replace the injector.

It's underneath the glove compartment. I think when I replaced my filter, I had to take the plastic piece on the right off. It's the piece that runs along the bottom of the doorway. That seems kind of confusing, but I think that's what I did. Hope that helps!

It is between $65-$85 for the gaskets.

Click the link.

Flame luminosity occurs because of lack of oxygen. Also, the air holes in the Bunsen burner affects the flame.

The gas filter is on the underside of the car about one or two feet ahead of the rear wheel on the passenger side of the vehicle. The filter is sometimes covered by a metal can type casing or an orange plastic type cylindrical covering.

about 5 - 10 hp

Just because you had the heads tested does not mean it fixes everything. Engine blocks crack to. drain anti freeze fluch with water and put in K&N block sealer. DO NOT USE WITH ANTI FREEZE IN IT, IT MIXES AND TURNS TO JELLO. WAIT SEVERAL DAYS AFTER THEN REPLACE ANTI FREEZE. AFTER YOU FLUSH ENGINE AGAIN. SHOULD FIX PROBLEM!

It could be either one. However, it is well known that these years of V6 engines had weak intake manifold gaskets from the factory. You might just luck out and it'll be the intake gaskets. You could also do a compression and leak down test to check the head gaskets before tearing it that far down to only find out they were fine.

It's really easy...if it's just like my '06. Open your glovebox. Take all the stuff out. On the right side, there's a mini-bungee strap holding it on. Unhook it, but gently so that it doesn't spring into the compartment and you have to hunt for it later. Squeeze both sides of the glovebox to free the "plugs" that hold it in place. You can unhook the glovebox completely, or let it hang in your way. Look in the compartment - the largest black plastic panel is the cover for the filter. It releases by the two bottom tabs - pull both towards you at the same time. You'll have to squeeze the filter just a bit to get it out around the support bracket that's inconveniently in the way. Squeeze and slide the new filter in, and don't forget to grab the bungee strap before you squeeze the glovebox back in place.

because the stock turbo leaks a little bit... its going to be present on any car that has a turbo... even some after market... its normal... no worries... besides... it can also be a positive thing... the oil helps catch excess dust that the filter didn't...