Alternators

i would think it should put out from 12 to 15 volts.you will need to check output also with lights on an if it drops in voltage you probably have a bad alternator,most auto parts stores can test the system for you.

IF you remove the right front tire and guard this will give you easy access to your alternator. You will need to jack your car up. It sits underneatdh the engine to the right of the starter. If you locate the oil filter you'll see it right in front of you. Just disconnect your battery and then the pplasitc guard on the alternator held on by a single bolt. Then disconnect all wires. Next, Unscrew the two bolts that runn across the bottom. Put a 14mm on the tensioner to put some slack in the serpentine belt and pull the 14mm wrench. Take the belt from around the alternator and then remove the bolt on the top right of the alternator. that one in particular is a little hard to get to, but take your time and good luck. I f you are still having trouble then get the Haynes Repair manual for the Saturn S-series 1991-2002. You can find them at any auto perts store and they are great to have!

First, find out if power is getting to any other accessories. Do the lights work? Horn, radio, door buzzer? If not, it could be the main power wire from the battery. The large cable goes to the starter, but on some vehicles a separate, smaller power wire goes from the battery or sometimes the starter to the power distrbution under the dashboard. After you have checked that out, get back to me at: a_d_kirkwood@excite.com and we can figure out what to do next. I have replaced the terminals on the battery & the connections seem flawless. I don't know what to check for on the wire you are talking about but lastnight I looked inside the fuse box inside the engine compartment & pulled out a big fuse block titled MAIN ENGINE on the diagram & the male connectors looked burned. I went to Pepboys & purchased a new one for $20 & put it in & the car instantly started up but only for a brief minute or two before the inside lights started to flutter a bit & the car shut off completally again to where it doesn't turn over & none of the lights work inside or out once again. Any ideas? Thank you for your help JOEY

Sounds like the engine is using the battery as the source of power instead of using the alternator. The main job of the battery is to give power to the starter that "starts" the engine. Once the engine is started the alternator kicks in to maintain power throughout the vehicle, as well as keeping the battery strong. But if the alternator isn't working, the engine will get it's power from the battery. And without the alternator keeping the battery strong, the battery will die. Note: between the alternator and the battery, there is a voltage regulator, this make sure that the battery only gets the power it needs. Oh, one more note, here's a way to tell if the alternator is working properly. (Start the engine, while it is running remove one of the battery cable for just a few seconds.)if the engine stops, then you have an alternator problem still. Check your wires. Or replace the unit. for more answers. email tjjjlong@aol.com A constant 12 volt drain on the electrical system, even when the car is off

Start by removing leads from the battery.You have to release tension on the serpentine belt,(this can be tricky)I have used an adjustable wrench to pull on the tab. Remove the power lead and one plug on the bottom. There are two struts(one behind , one on top)also one nut and bolt on the bottom left. If the serpentine belt needs to be replaced, you have to remove the motor mount. You should brace the engine before removing it.

The best way to go about this if you are not mechanically inclined, go to your neighborhood Autozone, or Discount Auto parts stores, both stores test alternators for free, I used to work at autozone, so i know firsthand.

open the hood of the car go to the alternator. there should be a bolt facing the firewall on the alternator this adjusts it. make sure the other bolts are loose first. good luck!

First, disconnect the battery cables, Second, you have to drain some or all the coolant so you can remove the upper radiator hose, Third, disconnect the alternator cables, Fourth, loosen the bolt attaching the alternator so you can loosen the alternator belt, Finally, remove the bolt and angle the alternator to remove it. You might need to hammer the alternator from underneath, sometimes they are really tight. 'Hope this helps.

this is just like any other alternator on any other car. first disconnect battery, next remove the serpentine belt but make note of its routing so you will know how to install correctly. next the alternator is located on the left bottom on the engine. sudjest removing from the bottom, remove connector and main chargine wire from rear of alternator, unbolt bolts and remove alternator, if this seems to complex then take it to a BMW dealer to have it performed, also i recommend a approved BMW alternator, prefer actual BMW one.

Usually if your rear diff is going bad it will start to howl or grind.

Use a large wrench to take tension off of your serpentine belt and remove the belt from the alternator, (just the alternator). Disconnect the wires. Remove the bolts then the alternator. Put new alternator in place using old bolts. Replace wires (may only be one wire, depending on the alternator). Get your large wrench back out, put the belt back on the alternator, and your good to go.

the alternator will be located close to the top of the motor, you will need to loosen the tensioner pulley and remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the elictrical connections at the alternator and remove the alternator mounting bolts. then just lift the alternator out... as far as tools you will need a basic set of sockets and a screwdriver.

not easy at all....its a bear...youve gotta...well i had to to unbolt the strut from the spindle and the sway bar tie link...and move the axle out of the way...it has to come out of the tire area...takes some work....if your limited to what you can do i would have a shop do it

Well i dunno! I changed mine in an 88 2.2 --10 minutes to unbolt 45 mins to remove it and 10 mins to rebolt-----it will come out the top if you unfasten and push the loom way left and remove some minor elements---patience and a some twisting!

the alternator is removed from below and there is three bolts (10 mm socket) that need removed. one of these bolts is on the other side of alternator. use a small mirror to see this bolt. Don't forget to disconnect battery!!!

A battery is nothing more than a storage device for electric power. The alternator changes the kinetic energy given off by the engine into electrical energy. If the battery can be charged and store energy but the battery keeps discharging after you use the vehicle, check the alternator. If someone accidentally reversed polarity EVEN BRIEFLY while jump-starting the vehicle the diode plate is probably destroyed and you will have to replace or repair the alternator.

you need to do a voltage test and see if there's a greater load of energy returnig to the battery and compare it to the load leaving. if your return is greater then the problem most likely will be your battery.if there is no or low voltage returning from the alternator check your wiring and or consider another alternator change. another test. turn on your car , while the engine is runing disconect your battery positive first then negative. this test while not accurate it will most likely tell you if the alternator is working.(the car should stay on)

Bad bearings in an alternator would make a grinding or roaring sound. If a Diode Plate is failing you might hear a buzzing sound in the radio that changes pitch with the speed of the engine.

Removing the bottom bolt seems to be near impossible. I've tried every approach that I know. I would definitely appreciate any input. Thank You. iZm

I just did this on a 1992 Astro EXT cargo van having the Z-code 4.3-liter V6 and automatic transmission; I previously performed this operation on a 1994 Starcraft Conversion Astro (EXT) having the W-code 4.3-liter V6 and automatic transmission. On all the Astro/Safari vans I've seen, the alternator is located on the passenger side of the engine.

Recommended tools: # 8mm box-end wrench or socket (not all will need) # 10mm DEEP box-end wrench or socket # 13mm box-end wrench or socket # 14mm DEEP box-end wrench or socket

# 15mm box-end wrench or socket # 3-inch socket extension # 3/8-inch-drive ratchet

# steel "butter knife" or suitable substitute # teflon tape or other "thread sealer"

If you elect to use a 1/4-inch-drive ratchet in lieu of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, limit its use to 10mm-or-smaller sockets: the threaded fasteners in this application having larger heads require greater torque than can be safely and reliably applied using 1/4-inch-drive hardware. Read this entire procedure first, then decide whether this is a project for you to attempt.

There are significant minor differences to the specific procedures involved, to wit: (1) Always observe all applicable safety procedures. (2) Disconnect the cable from the positive (+) battery terminal. For some vans, you will need an 8mm socket or wrench; for others, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench.

(3) The power steering reservoir is in the way on vans having the Z-code engine: leaving the hoses attached and avoiding tipping of the reservoir, remove and save the screws that hold the reservoir to the cowl; then bend the hoses and rest the reservoir on the driver's side of the radiator shroud. The air filter box is in the way on vans having the W-code engine. Open the clamps that seal the box, remove the filter: the nuts and bolts holding the airbox in place are visible. Remove the airbox, saving the hardware. (4) The ductwork supplying the engine with fresh air is in the way. Usually, these plastic pieces just click together, but there may be one or more clamps, nuts and/or bolts, or screws holding some of it in place. The offending portion consists of the following pieces: (a) the lower part that turns the air about 90-degrees, so that the air flows upwards, (b) the upright section that channels the air upwards (it looks like an accordion's bellows on the Z-code engine), (c) the upper ductwork connecting the upright section with the air filter housing. I have heard that some ductwork installations are secured using #2 Phillips threaded fasteners (screws); if yours is such an application, you will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver. (5) Remove serpentine belt. The ratcheting tool that looks like a long, flat handle -- it came with the vehicle as part of the lug wrench kit -- has an opening that fits the pulley on the tensioner. Using the tool, loosen the tensioner with one hand and slip the belt off using the other hand. At this point, whether you need to remove the fan from the front of the engine should be obvious. If you must, be aware that so doing without removing the shroud really isn't going to give you much room (about 1/2 an inch, maybe an inch). If you need more than that, the shroud has to come off so that you can remove the fan. Although at 13.5 inches (34.3mm) circumference and 14.5 inches (37.9mm) circumference respectively, my forearms and upper arms are rather small, I think that needing to remove the fan to have enough room is a highly unlikely condition. (6) Remove the engine oil dipstick bracket from the stud holding the alternator to the bracket. The nut securing the dipstick bracket is probably a 10mm. Remove the dipstick bracket from the stud. Be aware the dipstick tube could slide from the engine.

(7) The alternator bracket should be loosened from the front of the engine. Remove the bolts (it should be a trio of 14mm bolts) and save them. This allows the bracket, tensioner and alternator to be tilted away from the engine. At least one bolt may be wet with engine coolant; seal the threads of any such bolt before reinstalling it. (8) Use an appropriate tool to unclip the plug from the alternator (I used a "butter knife), and remove the red wire from the lug at the back of the alternator. The nut securing the red wire to the alternator is probably a 10mm; the stud in the alternator is probably a 15mm (menitoned just in case the new one needs snugging). (9) Remove the bolt from the rear of the old alternator holding it to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the stud holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm); then remove the "hinge" bolt holding the old alternator to the bracket (either a 13mm or a 14mm bolt screwed into a 15mm nut). Installation of the new unit is done by reversing the steps of disassembly. SAFETY NOTES: Be aware that there can exist pinch hazards during this procedure. Also be aware of the possible hazard of falling tools and/or debris.

Helpful hint: if possible, have someone else hold the bracket/alternator/tensioner assembly in-place while you start the lower 14mm bolt by hand from underneath the passenger side. This makes installing the upper bolts much easier.

Start ALL the bolts before tightening any of them. Generally, it goes pretty quickly if you begin with the "all bolts finger-tight, then all bolts hand (wrench/socket) tight, then all bolts torqued" method. NOTE: Conspicuously dexterous people may not have to remove the alternator bracket, but in my opinion, the procedure is much easier if this is done. You should never have to remove the doghouse (engine cover inside the van) to replace the alternator. If a mechanic told you he/she did it that way, you should be going to a different mechanic. I have replaced several alternators on Astrovans. The first thing to do is disconnect the (+) positive cable from the battery!! This will prevent you getting shocked and or blowing a fuse or fuseable link. Once the battery is disconnected, on the back of the alternator, there is a single wire connected to a post with a nut on it. Remove this nut and the wire. Replace the nut onto the post so you don't lose it. Then, there will be a clip with one or more wires in it that is snapped into the side of the alternator. Press the clip thumb tab and remove this clip. Next, locate the upper bolt at the front of the alternator that holds it to the upper bracket. Loosen this bolt. Locate the lower bolt and remove it from the lower alternator bracket - it usually is a long bolt about 6 inches or so. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley wheel. Hold onto the alternator and remove the upper bolt and the alternator should be free. If you are exchanging this alternator with another one, compare all the connectors and make sure that the bolt holes line up the same otherwise, you may have difficulty installing the replacement. Also, make sure the pulley wheels are the same, if not, you can swap them. The other thing to check, especially if you are taking this old alternator to the store for a replacement, have them check your alternator on their machine and before leaving with a new/replacement alternator, make sure it has the nut for the back of the unit - if not - take the one from your old alternator. You can also purchase a Haynes Manual for your vehicle which will have step by step instructions including some photos. When re-installing the alternator, you may reverse these steps and make sure that the last step is to re-connect the battery!! The serpentine belt should be tight enough that you can push on it, between pulleys, and be able to push it inward about 1 inch without needing to apply lots of pressure. If the alternator makes a squealing noise, the belt may be too loose or too tight.

IF you remove the right front tire and guard this will give you easy access to your alternator. You will need to jack your car up. It sits underneatdh the engine to the right of the starter. If you locate the oil filter you'll see it right in front of you. Just disconnect your battery and then the pplasitc guard on the alternator held on by a single bolt. Then disconnect all wires. Next, Unscrew the two bolts that runn across the bottom. Put a 14mm on the tensioner to put some slack in the serpentine belt and pull the 14mm wrench. Take the belt from around the alternator and then remove the bolt on the top right of the alternator. that one in particular is a little hard to get to, but take your time and good luck. I f you are still having trouble then get the Haynes Repair manual for the Saturn S-series 1991-2002. You can find them at any auto perts store and they are great to have! IF you remove the right front tire and guard this will give you easy access to your alternator. You will need to jack your car up. It sits underneatdh the engine to the right of the starter. If you locate the oil filter you'll see it right in front of you. Just disconnect your battery and then the pplasitc guard on the alternator held on by a single bolt. Then disconnect all wires. Next, Unscrew the two bolts that runn across the bottom. Put a 14mm on the tensioner to put some slack in the serpentine belt and pull the 14mm wrench. Take the belt from around the alternator and then remove the bolt on the top right of the alternator. that one in particular is a little hard to get to, but take your time and good luck. I f you are still having trouble then get the Haynes Repair manual for the Saturn S-series 1991-2002. You can find them at any auto perts store and they are great to have!

I assume you have already determined the alternator to be the only problem and all the wiring and fuses to be fine. First off, I would disconnect the negative cable from your battery to prevent any sparks when you remove the wires off the alternator. If the plastic cover is in the way, remove it by taking out the small bolts on the side of the cover. To remove the alternator you need to remove the serpentine belt from the alternator, paying attention to how it is routed around the pulleys. To release tension you need to use the square end of your ratchet in the tensioner and move it so the belt has slack in it, then slide it off the old alternator. They make a special tool for this, but I use a ratchet when I do it. The next step would be to remove the wires off the alternator and move them out of the way, saving the nut from the battery wire. Then unbolt and remove the alternator. Installation is same as reverse, being careful not to damage the belt when you slide it back on the new alternator. Note that when you disconnect the battery the engine may run/idle funny for a few minutes as the computer resets the parameters, but should run fine after that. which engine?

You need to drop the driveshaft out of the car on the drivers side. Once you do that you can get to it a little bit easier.

Starter solenoid.

it has its own belt use the belt tentionadjuster located on the alt itself its a bolt