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Alternators
An alternator is an old term for electric generator that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy producing alternating current. Alternators are mainly used for recharging batteries and to power electrical loads of vehicles.
4,629 Questions
How do you replace the alternator on a 2000 Toyota Corolla?
Not easy on some of these cars because of limited working space.Bu t remove the neg bat cable then the wires from the alt then the bolts holding it on.
ok real good answer,not.thats the most basic answer i have ever seen.come on,there are 2 main bolts to remove.one on top one at the bottom facing the same way as the top one.there are 2 wire sets to remove,one will need a socket and the other is a clip.to remove the belt there is a tension bar.the bar is almost an L shape with two connected pieces,to the left are two small bolts,leave them alone.look at the biggest bolt in the middle that holds the bar on,right above that is the bolt you will need to crank clockwise to loosen the belt.mine was broken off so i just stuck a torqe bar in there and cranked it twords the front of the car until the belt was loose enough.then just reverse everything to put back on.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1992 Dodge Caravan 3.0L?
Put socket wrench on serpentine belt tensioner and pull toward front of car and loosen belt. Make sure before you do this to have a drawing of the route of the belt over all its paths. Undo negative cable on battery. Remove bolts that hold alternator and remove. Undo nuts that hold wiring. Take new alternator and replace wires as removed with nuts. Place alternator back in bracket and replace bolts. Route serpentine belt and pull tensioner toward front and slip belt back on. Wear mechanic gloves to save skin. Make sure your battery has full charge as you don't want to burn up your replacement by making it work too hard. Very important!!!!
This is too vague 1.are you getting power anywhere?
Without being there there are hundreds of possiblities to your question.
If you don't have the money for a technician to fix it(hundereds of dollars)
You can get either a chilton's or haynes manual electrical version and troubleshooting for your car at auto zone or the like for about 10 dollars.
Get that narrow it down and post back.good luck
How do you replace the alternator on a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.4L?
The manual says that you have to jack the car up and take off both front tires and then take of the serpentine belt and take out the coolant tank and reach threw the wheel well and undo the bolts and take off the heat shield if you have one and you also have to take the back exhuast manifold off to bring it down and out. But I have talked to some guys in the salvage yard and they said that if you jack up the car and put the body of the car on jack stands take both wheels of and then put a floor jack on the subframe and undo back bolts completely and loosen up the front bolts and then let the floor jack down it will give you enough acces to get the alternator out and put in the new one.
Where is the alternator on a 1987 Toyota Tercel and how do you repair it?
The alternator is on the passenger side between the firewall and the motor.
autozone has a belt tensioning tool. i swapped out my alternator in less then half an hour in the autozone parking lot. they have the tools, and if you have a question theyll help you out.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Chevy S-10 2.2L?
First, disconnect a battery cable, then you have to loosen the belt. The belt tensioner is at the bottom of the engine near the alternator. Put a 3/8" socket in the square hole in it to take the tension from the belt.
The alternator is held in place with three bolts, two of them are on the rear (facing the firewall) and one is at the front. You need a 15mm socket for one of them and a 13mm for the other two. You can reach two of them from the top if you have a small arm that you can get to the back of the alternator. One bolt is hard to see, an inspection mirror is helpful, but you can feel around and find them. There is little room to fit a standard wrench or socket wrench, so it helps to have a 1/4" drive socket wrench or a set of stubby wrenches. The third bolt on the front can be reached from underneath the truck. You do not have a lot of room between the fan and the alternator to get a socket wrench to it.
After removing the three bolts, the alternator will fall out of it's mount, but you will still have difficulty removing it. You first disconnect the wiring harness. The power wire is long enough that you can get the alternator out from the underside and then remove it. The alternator will not reach the ground with the wire attached, but you can set it on a frame member and remove the power wire.
The fan shroud, belt tensioner, some hoses, and wiring get in the way, but you can carefully work the alternator out from underneath the truck, but it is a tight squeeze. It is fairly easy to work the alternator out if you remove the tensioner. There is only one bolt and it is easily accessible for underneath the truck.
One thing to remember when you remonw the bolts from the alternator is to be careful about how much stress you put on the rear bracket! If you let the alternator leverage this bracket it will bend out of place, and it makes it a serious bear to put the new alternator in! I had to do this last night on a 2000 model with the 4 cylinder engine. The key to it is to remove the plastic shrouding around the top of the radiator. There are 3 10 mm head bolts at the front lip and then two more on each side of the fan shroud. Once you get this stuff out of the way (about 10 minutes worth) the accessibility to the Alt is greatly improved. It was not necessary for me to remove the idler pulley. I used a 12 inch bar plus a 10 inch pipe extension for the idler pulley with the 3./8ths drive to rotate the pully and remove the belt. It needs to rotate roughly 90 degrees to fully get out of the way of the belt. On the 2000 model the bracket that holds the alt is cast iron and not subject to being bent. I wrapped a heavy nylon string around the drive pulley and strung it from the hood (held up with prop rod) to keep it from falling. I was able to do all of the work from the top. 1/4 drive ratchets do help given the tight space around the alt. I used a 3/8 drive ratchet to get the 15 mm bolt, the others are 13 mm as noted. Total time for me was about an hour which given it was the first time to do this particular job was not too bad. $120 for a new, not rebuilt alternator
i found this little helpful hint out when i had to do my alternator on my 2002 2.2. there's a little mudflap that folds up right by the inner fender, the thing that keeps stuff out of the engine compartment, and you can see the whole back of the alternator and you can touch all the spark plugs and everything. all you have to do is take the wheel off!!!
Always make it a habit to disconnect the negative side of the battery first and reconnect it last.
Why might a vehicle not charge after replacing the battery and alternator?
A lot of new vehicles have a master system fuse under the hood that might be blown.
I've found that the wire from the alternator to the positive terminal (which runs the actual charge to your battery positive terminal) is sometimes bad. You can bypass it by adding a wire at the small post at the back of the alternator then running it to the positive battery cable (attach it any which way). The original wire is the small one which runs attached alongside the battery cable. Bypassing it will let you see if it is bad or not. I actually have left the new wire on this way and never stalled or had starting problems since. Try it even though your battery is fully charged.
What is the alternator belt routing for a 1989 Dynasty with a 3.0 V6?
It took me awhile to find it on the internet when I needed it..go to http://www.autozone.com it will help you out. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/a2/88/0900823d800ba288.jsp There it is for 1988 - 1995 Chrysler FWD V6 engines
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Mercury Sable?
Pretty straight forward process. Remove the serpentine belt. Remove the leads to the old alternator. There is a bracket on the back of the alternator that attaches to the top of the motor I also removed this but cannot recall if that was necessary. Remove the bolts securing the Alternator and take it out. Reverse the process to put the new alternator back in. The most difficult part is getting the serpentine belt around the bottom pullys as there is very limited access. Thread the belt through the lower pullys first and then work on the idler/tension wheel last to get the belt mounted. I replaced the belt since I had the old one off but it did not look bad even after 110K miles. .
The above answer is a little deceiving. If you have a 12v engine, it's a lot easier than a 24v engine. On the 24v engine, it's buried in the back of the engine on the drivers side and is a pain to remove.
Yes, the 24v DOHC is tough. I thought I was going to have to take out the cv shaft, but I saw an idea was to loosen the motor mounts and carefully lift the engine to get enough clearance to get the alternator out. Put a 2x4 under the length of the oil pan and lift carefully!
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Kia Sephia?
i have a 98 kia sephia, and i actually had to take the (left) motor mount off to raise the engine to allow removal clearance. use a regular floor jack but choose a good spot and a scrap piece of wood to lift motor. using caution and a little patience, it can be done. p.s. the oem kia alternator , is surprisingly cheap.....and the quality is that of what kia fans can expect....?! good luck
I recommend removing the intake manifold to allow clearance, no matter what the design is less than helpful as it should not be necessary to do that ...30 minute job turns into 2 hour job
Hey. You got to start off by taking off you alternator belt. Once that is dont you got to then take your the intake off. Once your intake is off you then take the two bolts, one concter and you positive off the alternator then it will then slide out. Remember when taking off alternator clean conector before putting in new one. Be patient... Good Luck.
Damn this 3rd answer. Someone needs to take a spelling class
My Chilton's manual makes this sound really easy, but its like birthing a baby using forceps, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold or jack up the engine. Here is what I did.
1. Unbolt the main electrical cable from the alternator.
2. Unplug the control wires. The plug has a locking clip that must be pushed toward the wiring.
3. Loosen the pivot bolt on the bottom of the alternator, which has to be reached from underneath the car.
4. Then from above loosen the tensioning bolt and the tensioning mounting bolt. Remove the belt and remove the bolts. Remove the tensioning bracket and tensioning bracket bolt. (Chilton's says to just swing it out of the way, but it wouldn't stay out of the way, and you need all the room you can make)
5. Unclip the fuel line from its mounting clips and gently push the fuel line out of the way.
6. Disconnect all the power steering lines and get them out of the way. This makes a mess unless you drain the power steering fluid first or plug the open tubes with caps or plugs. Remove the power steering line mounting bracket. Also take off the mounting bolt for the A/C lines.
7. Take a piece of 14 gage wire or a coat hangar and hook it on to the alternator like a handle, so you can pull on the alternator without having your hands in the way.
8. Gently pull the alternator out with one hand pulling on the wire handle and the other hand pushing all the other tubes out of the way. I found that the pinch point was between the end of the fuel rail and the air conditioning lines. The skinniest part of the alternator is perpendicular to the rotor and between the mounting points.
9. Disconnect nearest cable from the cruise control box. Mine just twisted off with a 1/4 turn.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal.
If you just remove the power steering brackets you can get it far enough out of the way to remove the alternator
the answer could be 3 fold ,either your new battery is faulty,or your alternator is faulty ,,or the logical problem could be an earth fault ,clean down all earth points properly ,if that doesnt cure your fault ,you may have a wiring fault, could be a open circuit I.E broken wire inside harness.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1998 Nissan Altima?
Always remove the ground wire on the battery first! Then, loosen the belt and slide it off of the alternator wheel. Unplug the alternator. Remove the mounting bolts. Remove the alternator. Reverse the process for installation. BE SURE TO PLUG THE BATT BACK IN. It happens more often than you think ;)
..and be sure to carefully look at how the alternator belt is routed over and around the pulleys. The belt is a "serpertine" type and is a pain to figure out!!!!
Why would an alternator charge too much?
Alternators have two parts, one is the armature that generates electricity and the other is a voltage regulator. In most cars the typical output for an alternator is 13.2 to 14.4 volts. If their is more or less than this being produced, the voltage regulator may be faulty or the bushes may be worn.
another issue that some alternators have is the failure of the bearings inside the alternator leading to noisy running or the bearings inside the freewheeling pulley fitted to more and more modern alternators. these can often be replaced independently.
How do you replace the alternator on a 2002 Chrysler Sebring?
Did a 2001 Chrysler Seabring 2.7L Remove right hand lower splash shield under the vehicle. Loosen the belt tensioner which will be two 13mm bolts. Discharge the A/C system. disconnect wiring from alternator and remove the three bolts from the alternor. Once the alternator is disconnected from the engine remove the low side A/C line from the A/C compressor and the alternator will come out through the top. It will be tight but it will come out.
How do you test an alternator while still mounted to the engine without using a meter?
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/alternator-generator/testing-an-alternator-without-blowing-it-sky-high
Check with your local auto parts store. Most can check the voltage on the car.
You can also start the motor, while it's running remove neg battery terminal if motor stays runnung your alternator is good.
This technique is best done at night/in the dark. Turn headlights on whilst engine is running. If idle is set correctly, when you press gas pedal you should notice the headlights/dash lights become brighter. If they become brighter your alternator is working.
Another check you can do at night is to observe the headlights with the engine running, then shut off the engine. The headlights should get slightly dimmer. If not then the alternator ( and connections) should be checked further
While the engine is running you can take the positive off of the battery terminal. If the car stalls, it's a good bet your alternator is shot.
re-distribution of electrons is toughMost of these answers don't distinguish between a bad alternator and a bad voltage regulator, the symptoms are often the same. Voltage regulators are cheap and usually easy to replace, depending upon how deep the alternator is buried. Then again a voltmeter only costs a few bucks from harbor freight or radio shack.Like the drunk searching for his keys under the light pole, (the light is better here) diagnosing electrical problems is best done with the easiest/cheapest jobs done first: Checking voltage drop through connectors and harnesses, Cleaning terminals (especially those on the alternator and main fuse panel), Replacing the voltage regulator, Having the battery and alternator inspected (usually free) by an auto parts chain store, etc..
Your alternator might also be ok but but marginally underpowered for the equipment in the car. This'll happen a lot to cars that are loaded down with aftermarket audio and lighting gear. I'm looking at a weird case like this right now, whenever the AC is on, and I'm just puttering around town, the battery starts sagging down under 12 volts. Since I've little aftermarket stuff in the car, I suspect that either the AC clutch or the aux fan is pulling way more current than it should.
My choices seem to be to put a bigger alternator in, or to hook up amp meters to the suspect components to see if they're pulling more than their rated power.
First buy a multimetre from a an auto store or hardware store, $15-25.
Start the car. As the user above pointed out, pull a battery cable if it continue running, you at least have running alternator. However, the alternator could be not charging enough, or over charging.
Set you multimetre to show voltage flow with at least the accuracy of one decimal place. Place the probes on the correct battery poles, red probe on the positive post and the black on the negative post.
If the multimeter reads below ~13.5 volts, it is not charging your battery, or charging it so slowly it would have to run for quite some time to fully charge; may need to replace the alternator.
A reading of ~13.5 to ~14.5 is somewhere in the norm.
And a reading above ~14.5 is probably a little high and you alternator is overcharging the battery; most likely a cheap-to-replace voltage regulator is the culprit. However, having being overcharged for an extensive amount of time may have damaged the battery.
Finally if you are still not sure, go to a trusted auto store and have them test your alternator; if you don't have a trusted auto store, don't be afraid to get a second opinion.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1998 Ford Contour V6?
V-6
to start unhook battery and get the drive belt off tension pulley
then get the car in the air either by lift or as high as you can on jack stands
then remove both front wheels,on passenger side remove plastic cover surrounding wheel well,
once removed you can see the bottom bolt on the alternator and can reach it with a 1/2 inch drive rachet and 13mm socket
from under the car between the rack and pinion and the firewall
now you need to remove the y-pipe and this will let you not only see the top bolt from under the car ,and the drivers wheel well
to do this unbolt manifolds and where y pipe connects to the cat you will need to carefully use vise grips and pull the pins out of the studs to remove them
attach vise grips to pin and slowly rotate pin back and forth to get it loose and work the pin out twisting back and forth
the studs are DISCONTINUED AND LAST COST 45 BUCKS EACH SO BE CAREFUL
but also can see top bolt from driver side wheel well
which is where you have to access it from ,
using a 13mm and a 1/2 inch drive extension 36 inches long or longer ,weave it through from the driver side wheel well and get top bolt out
then pry alternator from cradle ,this may take some effort
turn it to access wires,and the plugs remove wire and plugs
pop passenger side tie rod end and carefully finish removeing the alternator from the car,once again this may take some effort
the install is in reverse
WIRES FIRST,THEN
LINE UP BOTTOM BOLT FIRST AND GET IT STARTED THEN START THE TOP BOLT,,MAKE SURE ALL BOLTS AND WIRES ARE TIGHT BEFORE REINSTALLING THE Y PIPE
take your time
on the y PIPE
IT'S NOT EASY BUT CAN BE DONE IN A COUPLE OF HOURS
1. Put the front of the car on jackstands and dis-connect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove passenger side wheel and lower splash guards. Using low profile 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar, remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley.
3. Dis-connect the passenger side tie rod from the knuckle.
4. remove the driver side wheel.
5. Get 3 or 4 feet of extensions for your 3/8 socket wrench and feed them through the driver side wheel well to the upper bolt of the alternator. Yo may need to secure the socket & extensions on the bolt from up top then get back down to the driver wheel well, but it's worth the few seconds. Remove the upper bolt.
6. From below the car, loosen the lower bolt, but do not remove.
7. There is a small bracket on the alternator between mounting bolts. Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the bracket to the block.
8. From above, pry the upper tab from the mounting bracket.
9. Below the car, hold the alternator while removing the lower bolt.
10. Dis-connect the electrical to the Alternator.
11. Maneuver the alternator out through the passenger side wheel well. Takes a little thinking, but it'll come out.
12. Transfer the small bracket to the new alternator.
13. Feed the alternator in through the passenger side and make electrical connections.
14. Secure the lower alternator tab and hand tighten the lower bolt.
15. Pivot the alternator up. The upper tab may not easily fit into place. Tighten the 10mm bolt in the center bracket to the block. This will press the upper tab into place.
16. Install the upper bolt and hand tighten. Fully tighten the lower bolt now.
17. Use extensions from the driver wheel well to tighten the upper bolt.
Remainder of this project is simple re-assembly. An experienced shade tree mechanic can do this alternator R&R in under an hour after his tools are set out.
I looked at mine once (1995 model) while doing something else. If the answer provided is true, you're lucky because I'd swear you'd have to drop the engine sub frame on my car. Even after removing the right side wheel-well plastic liner and belt shroud that covers the AC/serpentine belt, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that you'd never get it out past the exhaust, steering rack and sub frame. Not to mention that the alternator pivot bolt head faces the inside of the engine compartment. Methinks the answer you got refers to a 4 cylinder model.
I've also read somewhere that the 95 V6 version requires removing the passenger driver axle....FYI
Just had the alternator replaced on my 1998 Contour, six cylinder. The belt was replaced, also the idler pulley do to worn bearings. The passenger side axel had to be replaced, the threads where damaged in the removal process. I saw a connection rod was also taken loose. All this just to get to the alternator. "It's just a better idea" Total cost was very near 500.00. I have found that most any repair on the contour has been expensive. Parts seem to be a bit scarse.
,
perhaps a better method is to simply cut the front right hand side of the car off, change the alternator and weld it back in place. This would surely be less time consuming and cause less aggrivation.
well my wife's car is a 98 Cotour v6 2.5L DOHC and yes it is easier to remover the passenger side CV Axel not the Drive Axel. but the alternator will still come out with out doing so it just help the instillation process go smother and in my eyes its just a hassle to remove/take apart more then is needed to get the job done.
2000 v6 contour - Technically very easy but physically demanding.
The first answer and the steps shown are very concise and totally correct for the V6 contour. - The whole job is very fiddly, especially if you are laying on your back with the car on stands.
Steps 1 through 3 are required before you get to the alternator.
After removal of the serpentine belt - I would suggest replacing your idler pulley and tensioner pulley if over 100K miles. ($10-$15 each and an extra 30mins)
You can remove the alternator without moving to the drivers side of the vehicle.
Use 3/8 sockets and extensions (no knuckle joint) to get you to the drivers side of the exhaust downpipe. Then undo the upper bolt first, do not remove bolt fully. Now undo the lower bolt which is more difficult and needs a similar path(drivers side of the downpipe) but different route to reach the bolt. Remove the bolt fully. 13mm.
Note - Both bolts will be very tight !!
Next remove the UPPER bracket bolt on the small rear bracket completely. 10mm Use 3/8" drive and a knuckle joint right after the socket, route it downwards on the passenger side of exhaust downpipe.
Now you can try to remove the wiring - for me it was too tight at this stage.
Remove the upper bolt completely. Stay under the car - Prise/wiggle the alternator off the upper saddle mount. Be careful do not stretch the wiring, it was very tight on my car. Whilst still laying under the car, maneuver the alternator for better access to the wiring, remove the thick wire, using a wrench. 8mm. Next push in the plug retainer wire toward the alternator body and pull off the 3 wire electrical plug. Lastly prise off the charge light plug, be very careful not to break this plug or its retainer finger.
Now go take a short break and clean up !!
Remove the pass wheel.
Remove the pass. tie rod from the spindle housing M14 and then use a tie rod breaker, do not damage the rubber dust shield or thread. Remove pass. roll bar link from the strut, use a 17mm wrench on the back, M15 nut front, I used a pneumatic hammer driver, as this was very tight and corroded.
Remove the small wheel well plastic cover 2 bolts 10mm.
Now wiggle and pull out the alternator through the hole, rotate as necessary.
Hey presto you are half way done........ (If you have ECL trouble codes for Oxygen sensors, now is a good time to change both bank 2 sensors ($36-$40 each) use m22 wrench - easy without alternator there - its no problem !)
Remove the rear bracket make a note of the orientation and transfer to the new alternator do not tighten the bolt fully, allow bracket to move under light force. Now reassemble the new alternator.
You will need lots of 3/8 extensions to get to the exact length to work. ie the difference between a deep reach socket and std socket can be the difference between success and failure trying to get onto the bolt head.
Took me 7hrs total but I did change both o2 sensors and pulleys - I would consider paying for the alternator job next time. I could not have done this in less than 2.5hrs even the 2nd time around. Book time is probably around 1 to 2 hours. You will need patience and determination.CH
How do you replace the alternator on a 1990 Nissan pick up?
The first thing you will need is about 4 arms and a whole lot of patience. Before you begin, check the location of the voltage regulator socket on the replacement and the original. Some replacements may have the plug socket on the 'other' side of the alternator - as mine did. I had to really stretch the harness to make it fit! I was lucky that I could get it together as I have 'just' enough extra wire to reach. Pull up on ramps to gain access under the front bumper. Remove, what we affectionately call, the "tool tray" (the brush guard under the engine to gain access to the belts. Loosen the alternator pivot and tuning screws. Remove the belt from the alternator. (Note: If you need to replace the belt, you will have to remove all of the belts because it is naturally the one in the back.) Remove the pivot screws (fore and aft) however you can get to them. Once the alternator is free from its mounting bracket, (this is where you can use the extra arms), remove the electrical leads from the back of the case. You may need to remove the wire harness from the clips just inside the left wheelwell (look from the top under the hood) to gain some extra working room. It isn't easy pulling the alternator through everything you have to get past, but with a little patience and persuation, it will fall into your hands (or on your face, if you're not careful). Reverse the process to install the new alternator. I recommend tightening the front pivot screw before trying to find the rear one. Hope that helps!
How do you replace the alternator on a 1991 Ford Probe GL?
If you're mechanically inclined I recommend you buying a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for the 1991 Ford Probe. Most provide the info on removing and reinstalling the starter. Also you might check your local library/s for these manuals. , EzForJesus
the alternator is located behind the engine. the passenger side axle shaft must be removed in order to get the alternator out. make sure you disconnect the battery first.
Where can you find schematics for a 1991 Chevy alternator?
You can find the wiring diagram for the starting/charging circuit in a Haynes manual for this car. You can get one at any local parts store. You can also find wiring diagrams at www.the12volt.com
How do you replace the alternator on a 1998 Chevy Silverado 1500?
i'd recommend buying a Hayes repair manual for your specific type of car. They can easlily be found at auto parts stores such as auto zone. they can be very helpful for future DIY repairs.
if its a V-8 there are 2 bolts a wired plug and a single wire with a ring terminal connector on it and of course the serpantine belt.
How do you tell if there is a problem with your battery or alternator?
Almost all of us have experienced the problem where either your car battery or alternator just conks out, and you can't make out which one to replace. Its not easy finding out exactly which part of your car is giving you the trouble, but here are a few tips by which you can find out whether you have car battery problems or alternator problems.
Check Your Battery First
Start by checking your battery first. In cold weather, it's very common to have a dead battery that just won't start. Check the battery gauge on the dashboard to make out if the battery is sending a charge even when you have switched off the car. If there is a dim flickering light, then it means that something is using up power from the battery. You can then proceed to check the connections you commonly use, like the automatic window openers, windshield wipers and the brake lights. Switch them all off and try the battery again. Clean off any corrosion and check to see whether the battery will charge up again. Then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter. It should read close to 12.6 volts when the car is off. Then turn on the engine again and check the battery. If the voltmeter reads between 14-15 volts then the battery is normal. But if the battery reads over 15 volts or less than 13 volts, then there might be a problem with the voltage regulator, the wiring or the alternator. If the battery just wont keep a charge even when you have turned off all accessories, then it's time to take a look at the other systems that work with the battery to run your car.
Check the Alternator
Test the alternator to make sure that it can start up the battery. If the battery is working properly and nothing is wrong with it, then it's the alternator that will more likely cause a problem. A simple test to check the working of the alternator is by running your car; and then unplugging the positive connection of the battery. If the car stops, then you most likely have a problem with the alternator. Another simple test is to check your interior lights. An alternator charges your battery when the car is running. If the interior and dashboard lights come on brightly but slowly start to fade, then it indicates a problem whit the alternator. It demonstrates that the alternator cannot keep a charge when the car is running. Another sign is that the car lights run brightly when you race your car, but when you slow it down, the lights start to lose power.
Is it dangerous to drive a car that has a problem with the water pump pulley or alternator pulley?
While it is a bad practice, it is not particularly dangerous for very short distances.
If the alternator is not turning properly, the battery will not charge, so you could be stranded, and jumping the battery really won't help unless you keep the two cars connected for a while. If you have to operate it like that for a while, then you should connect it to a charger every chance you can.
Now, if the water pump isn't operating correctly, the engine will likely overheat, and especially when idling. But if you must operate the car in this condition, be sure you keep an eye on your temperature gauge.
How do you replace an alternator on a 2002 Honda crv ex?
I am not a mechanic however my brother knows about car and he helps me replace my crv 2002 alternator.Always remove negative battery cable. Remove serpentine belt,tensioner, and disconnect one end of power steering the end that goes to the pump. Have a rug ready cause some fluid spill from the hose. Get it out of the way - power steering pump - without disconnecting the whole unit. Remove the bolt on top of radiator bracket - loosening the radiator unit. Pull out the coolant reservoir and put it on top of the engine without disconnecting it. Now you have 3 bolts on the alternator. One on top and two at the bottom/front - side by side. Remove the alternator ground, bracket and the connector which are all on the right side of the alternator. It is a little trickier to pull out the alternator but with patience you should be able to pull it out with proper angling on the left side where the steering pump is. Good luck!
Can an alternator cause car to stall?
Not usually. The alternator can fail to charge enough, or even fail to charge at all, but usually the battery would carry the load for a day or two. - The answer is to charge your battery completely, over a 24 hour period then check the alternator with a good meter. First check battery voltage with engine OFF, this should be 12.1 -12.4 volts. Now start the engine and do the same test, voltage across battery should now be around 13-14.5. If still the same as static test then the alternator is faulty. You may not necessarily have to buy a new alternator, in many cases you can renew the 'diode pack' for much less cash. - -Go to a Starter and Alternator specialist shop for advice on this.
