Brake Pads and Rotors

You will need to remove the tire and wheel from your Infinity i35. Remove the disk pad Springs and caliper. The disk pads will come off. Reverse the process to install the new disk pads.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4438626_brake-pads-rotors-pt-cruiser.html

Step by step, with list of tools and parts necessary ... infinitely the best site!

When they are worn out or causing a problem eg cracked, squealing etc..

Slack adjusters are the linkage between the pushrod in the brake chamber and the S-cam between the brake shoes.

were abs anit-lock brakes system

Kia's have rear calipers with screw in pistons. You must buy a tool from your local auto parts store called a "cube" it has little notches that fit into grooves on the piston. Then attach a standard socket and screw in the piston.

Usually about 70 -80,000 miles.

first check for contamination, pull master cylander cap off, if it has rubber underneath the cap and it's expanded or heavily distorted a petroleum product (such as oil) is in the system. the whole brake system will have to be redone, including brake hoses, mc, prop valve, height sensor, and any thing else rubber relatted in the system. also over adjusted rear brakes or over adjusted e brake can cause this. but check for contamination first this is a serious safety issue.

From the factory, Corvette rotors were riveted to either the front hub assembly or the rear spindle. To remove the rotors from your Corvette, drill out the rivets, removing the head of the pressed in rivet and then pull the rotor off. The rivets, still remaining in the hub assembly or spindle can then be cut or driven out with a hammer. To install the new rotor, the rivets DO NOT need to be replaced. The Chevrolet Corvette service manual recommends simply using the lug nuts of the wheel to hold the rotor in place. From all of us at Zip-Corvette.com

www.completeoffroad.com. In the web site completeoffroad go to the left hand side put mouse on brakes then u will see hubs 3rd one down then click then scroll all the way to the bottom and there u will see the hub for the 1976 ford highboy. They sell used ones, witch is better then none. I bought 2 and they are $59.00 ea witch is not bad at all. These are first I have found besides buying a old truck for parts. I hope this will help alot of u. Took me months to find. I allso have a wed site for replacement steering parts oem for the height boy (www.73-79fordtrucks.com) u have to call them to place an order. There u go just found out how to get 2 of the hardest parts to get for a highboy. P.s Cheaper to just have rear drive shaft remade then to try to order one

You need to change rubber brake line hose from caliper to frame they rot from inside.

Thank-You!! That was the problem and now everything is working fine.

I have a 97 s10 2wd that had the same problem. Rusted main feeder line to the back. This is beginning to sound like a common problem with the S10's. After replacing the line all four wheels will need to be bled as normal starting with furthest away. It took me about two full cans (larger ones)of fluid to get all excess air out of the lines. This is a 1/4 inch feeder 11 feet long so it took awhile. I can find no other forum that suggests any other type of "special" bleed procedures unless the pump module or resevior was emptied in which case there are separate bleeds for them. Hope this bit encouraged you not to give up. This really seems to be a very simple system with complicated lines.

The following procedure is pretty common to many vehicles and so applies to more than a 1994 Toyota Corolla.

If this is the second time the brake pads have been replaced, it is likely you will need new rotors as they will be worn too thin to have turned and reused.

If you buy the rotors at the same times as the pads, you will save a trip to the part store with your car up on jack stands. You can always return the unused rotors if you don't need them.

Assume the vehicle has the parking brake set, rear wheels are chocked, the entire front is jacked up, supported with jack stands and the front wheels are removed. On the back of the caliper is a small nut like protuberance. It may have a rubber cap. Remove the cap. This is the caliper bleed valve screw. Put one end of a piece of 1/8 inch vinyl hose over the bleed valve and the other end in a container. It is usually an 8 mm size. On some cars, it may be a 10 mm. Open the bleed valve with a open end or box wrench. If you are using a box wrench, put it over the bleed screw before you put the vinyl hose on. An adjustable wrench is a good way to round of the corners of a tight bleed valve screw. Avoid adjustable wrenches if you can. .

Use a heavy screwdriver or tirelever to push the piston in by pushing the lever in between the disk and pad. This will give leverage to wedge the disk pads back. Do not put any pressure on the rubber caliper boot/seal around the piston as you could poke a hole in it and then you would have to replace the entire caliper! The pads can be damaged but they will not be used again. Do this slowly so the fluid does not squirt all over. You will only get brake fluid in your eyes once in a lifetime. Avoid the first time at all costs. Continue to push the piston back into the cylinder until it is retracted as far as possible. You will likely need to do it in a 2 step process as describe below, otherwise you will not be able to get caliper back over new pads. Tighten the bleed valve. Clean up any spills.

Remove the two 17 mm bolts. The caliper should slide off. Do not let the caliper hang as it can damage the flexible brake line. Remove and replace the inboard pad and reinstall the caliper. Loosen the bleed valve again and squeeze the piston in the rest of the way by leveraging against the rotor, not the new brake pad. Tighten the bleed screw. Remove the caliper again and remove and replace the outboard pad. If the rotor is in good shape, you can now reinstall the caliper. Install and tighten the two bolts.

On a Honda Civic, the procedure is the same except, behind the caliper there are 2 size 14mm bolts and 2 size 17 mm bolts. Undo the bottom 14 mm bolt and remove it. Swing the caliper out and up. Remove the inboard pad and install a new pad. Be careful to not dislodge the spring clips. They hold the pads in place for reassembly. Swing the caliper back down over the rotor. Using the screw driver or pry bar, squeeze the piston in the rest of the way by leveraging against the rotor, not the new brake pad. . Swing the caliper back up and remove and replace the outboard pad with the new pad. The caliper should now fit back over the rotor. See comments below about the clips.

While the caliper is off and supported so it does not hang on the flex line, check the rotor. If the rotor shows any unusual wear, grooving or warp, it should be replaced or turned on a brake lathe. Corolla and Civic rotors are not expensive. It will save time to just replace the rotors rather than drop them off at the auto machinist or autoparts store, wait half a day or longer to get them turned then reinstall them, all while your car is out of service. Getting them both turned is about the same as the cost of one rotor. Plus, you may get a call telling you that they cannot be turned because they are worn below minimum thickness.

To remove the rotor, you need to remove the whole caliper. It requires removing the 2 17 mm bolts nearest the center hub. Now the caliper can slide straight away from the disk. Tie caliper out of the way with stiff wire to strut or spring, being careful not to stress, kink or twist brake hose. Check caliper for any leaks. Inspect the rotors for wear, grooving and thickness. Check thickness with a micrometer or take them to the parts store to have them miked. If needed, have them turned or if too worn, replaced. Thin rotors will warp easily, especially when new pads are put on and deeply grooved rotors will not allow much contact with the new pad surfaces, making brakes work harder to stop vehicle and creating excessive heat which is then unevenly distributed on the rotor, which may warp (and you will know it if it does!).

The piston side disk pad is fitted with a clip that clips into the piston. There is also a clip on the front of the caliper. Remove the clip. The new one will be supplied with the new set of disk pads. Remove both the pads, observing how they are mounted, inner and outer. Compare them to the new pads to make sure everything is the same. Clean the caliper with compressed air or dust off with a dry paint brush. Wear a mask as brake dust may contain asbestos or other harmful materials. Replace any worn parts, damaged hoses or leaky calipers.

Fit the new disk pads, first the non piston side and then the piston side. Replace the new clip on the front side of the caliper. Slide the caliper over the disk, install and tighten the two bolts. (I do not know the required torque the bolts should be tightened). Try to use the same amount of force to tighten that it took to loosen the bolts.

If you were careful when opening the bleed screw and used a hose, you will have not let any air into the caliper piston cylinder. The brakes should feel stiff at the brake pedal. If not, you will need to bleed the system to restore fluid pressure. Fluid does not compress so it will have a firm feel. Air compresses. If there is air in the system, the brake pedal will feel squishy. You will need to bleed out the air.

After replacing BOTH left and right sets of pads, you are now ready to repressurize the brake lines and calipers with fluid. With the engine off, begin pressing brake pedal slowly to the floor. Do not stab at the pedal, take a second or two to complete each stroke. If the pedal does not become firm, you will need to bleed the lines and cylinder. Have someone sit in the car to press the brake pedal. Step A, With the pedal up, loosen the bleed screw. Have that person slowly push the pedal down and hold it at the bottom of the stroke. Tighten the bleed screw. Release the pedal. Repeat Step A at least one more time. If there is a steady stream of brake fluid squirting out without any spattering or spitting, tighten the bleed screw. Now, repeat this whole procedure on the other side. Try the brake pedal without loosening the bleed screw. If you have properly bled the lines, the pedal should be firm. Remember, you may still have air on only one side so double check and bleed it before finishing up. Repeat this on both sides until you feel the pedal stiffening up indicating good hydraulic pressure. Release pedal. check fluid reservoir and add fluid back as necessary. Do not use ANY of the old fluid. Dispose of any used fluid left over safely. Cap topped off reservoir. Inspect for leaks at hoses and calipers and bulging hoses. Replace any parts that leak before attempting to drive car.

If the fluid that came out of the bleed valve screw into the container appears dirty, it would be a good idea to bleed/pump fluid through both sides to remove the dirty fluid. Compare the used fluid to new fluid. Dirty fluid will cause the piston to fail prematurely or to not release properly causing excess friction and drag. This will often wear out the pads quickly, especially the inboard pads.

If, after removing the old pads, you compare them and they are not evenly worn, the piston may be sticking. In this case, consider replacing the caliper with a rebuilt caliper. It is not uncommon for the inboard pad to wear out faster if the piston is not releasing properly.

FYI: On American made cars, there is usually a wear indicator on one pad, usually the outboard pad. It will squeal when the pad wears down too much. Murphy's Law demands that the inboard pad will wear out and gall the rotor long before the wear indicator starts squealing.

Lower car and torque wheel lug nuts. Start car. Pump brakes a few times to ensure they hold good firm pressure and are not "spongy". If spongy, air could be in lines and brakes will need to be bled again. Release parking brake. Carefully drive car around the block, making sure brakes work properly. Do not attempt to "burn-in" or "seat" brakes by working them hard early. Just drive normally and the brake pads and rotors will soon be seated well. That's It! While it seems like a lot to keep track of, over time with a few more brake jobs down, you will be able to do a decent job in about an hour.

Since you are saving a ton of money doing it yourself. Don't scrimp by reusing old fluid or cheap pads. Mid-grade pads will give you much better service.

Jack up truck,place on jackstands,remove front wheel, take off centre grease cap,behind this you will find large nut with split pin,remove split pin, remove large nut,remove large steel washer,brake drum should now pull off complete with outer wheel bearing, If drum is stubborn back off brake shoes a bit they could be holding drum.

"cheaper" brake pads glaze quickly, which in turn glaze the rotors quickly, glazing causes poor friction surfaces......almost a glass finish to the surface of the rotors and brake pads. when the clamping force of the caliper is applied to the pads there is slipping and vibration caused by the glazed surfaces...... i.e.if you run and try to stop on freshly polished hardwood floors with sock feet as apposed to stopping on a carpet, there is a considerable difference. note: your feet may even squeel on the hardwood floor ;)

Buying a Jeep Grand Cherokee Manual would be your best bet, but in a short version to install the front brake pads or any other brake pads. Jack up the jeep block the wheels, put jack stands underneith the axle you are working on, take the tire off, once off set the tire half way under the rock gaurd. Unbolt your brake caliber which is two bolts from inbehind the rotor, once bolts are out, take off brake caliber slowly. there is two brake pads left and right pull them out then do reverse of what you just did to take them out.... Good Luck

the brake rotors are warped. resurface or replace rotors. if the vehicle shakes without applying the brakes, check tire balance.

take the caliper off. use a wrenchor a special tool to twist.twist the caliper till it goes in,install pads,attach wheel then leave enine off till you pump the brakes hard then turn engine on

Brake are something that you should not play around with unless you have a good idea of what you are doing, if you screw it up the results can be fatal. You have not indicated front or rear and if the rear are disc or drum. Therefore I would suggest that you buy the Haynes or other manual (approx $20.00 at CTC) for your vehical read the section on brakes. Then get someone who knows what the are doing to show you how it is done.

If it is a Toyota, they do not know how to fix the squeaking brakes either. Even after replacing all the pads and machining the rotors and rear drums

Shimano BO1S Resin pads

brake drums should pull off if not rusted on.

depends how badly pitted---you can usually get away with having them turned

2006 Honda Element. Jack, lug wrench, 12mm socket, 8mm socket or wrench, 4" C Clamp. Break lug nuts, jack up vehicle to where tire is barely off the ground, loosen and remove caliper bolts on inside of caliper, break bleed valve bolt with 8mm socket or wrench, (brake fluid should start to bleed out a little bit) slide caliper off of pads and rest in a place that does not put strain on the brake lines, remove old pads from rotor, slide new pads in to place, open C clamp and put male end inside caliper opening and the other end on the backside of the caliper, slowly close until caliper sleeve has receded flush with the surface of the caliper, remove c clamp and slip caliper assembly back over new pads, replace caliper bolts and tighten accordingly. Helps to have another person for this next pary...Turn the key until just before it turns over or you can start the vehicle if you like, slowly push the brake pedal to the floor, when all the way down tighten bleed valve with 8mm socket or wrench, replace tire, tighten all lug nuts until tire spins slightly, lower jack, finish tightening lug nuts the rest of the way. Move to next tire, repeat.