Brake Pads and Rotors

its a thing on the computer

Could be a defective master cylinder--Ford had this problem a few years ago when the brake fluid got warm and expanded (Normal) the master cylinder would not allow the expanded fluid to return the the resevior--causing brakes to drag and eventually seize until fluid cooled and relaxed the calipers The car was driven too long with the brakes on. Was the parking brake engaged while driving? Bad calipers can cause sticking too. The metals on the brakes have become so hot that they have "welded" themselves together. Have a professional replace and repair the brakes.

Well it depends on what you are looking to do. First you know jack it up, pull the wheels, take off the drum. That might be difficult depending on when the last time they were taken off. Then you need to take the springs and clips off the shoes. You need a special tool to do this. Its cheap dont worry. Just undo everything, and it all goes back the same way. Do one side at a time so you have the other to check if you get lost. Its easy. Good Luck

Make sure that parking brake handle is in down position, remove rear tire (safely lifting one side of your car and immobilizing opposite side tire with blocks). You will see two flat head Phillips screws sitting flush in countersunk holes, remove them. You can also find two additional threaded holes, put both screws into them, and turning equally remove the drum. Good luck!

you need a ( i wanna say 3/8 thing-a-m-bob but everything else is metric so not shure exactly what size it is) its basically a stubby Allen wrench with 3/8ratchet connection on it just go to a good parts store and ask for the gm socket for the front brakes and if they don't know what that means that ain't a good parts store GM used he same size for all cars so shouldn't be two hard to get. when you get the socket remove the bolts i think one for older cars and two for newer gm not shure been a while since i changed the brakes on my caprice. you might have to go at it with a breaker bar or big torch wrench i just beat on a good ratchet with a hammer till it losens up and same to tighten since theres no good way to put a lot of force on it when just jacked up a little (make shure your goin the right way otherwise it just gets worse and worse)

Rear is to the back of the vehicle. Brake rotor is the rotating part of a disc brake.

to remove the front rotors u must first remove the caliper and caliper frame then remove the nut in the center of rotor rotor should fall off then hope this helps fordtech

how do i change rear brake pads on 53 plate Picasso hdi

Purchase a repair manual at any auto parts store that is specific to your ride. Around $12, and will contain all the info you need for this and future repairs. To remove most brake drums, you must first release the emergency brake. After that you can tap on the edge of the drum in several places around it to free it from the shoes. You might also have to wiggle the drum many times to get it to release from the shoes. Another method is...some drums have a threaded hole into which you screw a bolt and start tightening. This will make the drum push away from the wheel flange and usually remove the drum.

To replace the brake pads on a Mercury Mariner you will need a few tools. The tools you will need are a large C-clamp, a jack, tire blocks, and a 3/8 inch hex head Allen head socket.

You possibly have warped brake rotors on the front. Or Bad Wheel Bearings.

Jack the car up and place on jack stand to ensure it is stable. Remove the road wheel. Compress the caliper so that reinstalling the new brake pads will fit correctly against the rotor. Remove the brake caliper by removing the two bolts that hold it in place. Lift the caliper out by the downside first. The upside of the caliper rests underneath a lip and must be pivoted out. The brake pads are removed by prying them out with a screw driver. Install new pads and reinstall caliper following the directions in reverse.

A 1991 mercury topaz has drum brakes on the rear wheels.

YES, the pads should have been replaced at the same time you replaced the rotors.

Take th fromt wheel; off then take the bolt out that holds the pin holding the caliper on. Drive the pin out and compress the piston into the caliper completely. If the rotor is scored, have it turned before reassembly. Be sure to use any anti squeek shims or grease that come with the pads.

Under "Related Links", just below, I posted a link with a step by step 'how to'.

Inludes pictures for each step.

Good luck!

This could be for a few reasons, but if they are getting hot without you applying them, I would suggest that they are sticking and causing the pads to rub on the discs, or if they are drum brakes, the shoes on the drums.

If they are only getting hot as a result of using the brakes, I would suggest checking that the brakes are balanced properly, and that the front brakes are not doing all of the work/ or that the back brakes are working at all.

Thea minimum thickness for a 1996 Toyota Corolla rotor is .787, measured in In thousandths of an inch. Anything rotor that does not meet this minimum thickness should be discarded.

You will need to remove the tire and wheel from your Mitsubishi Eclipse. Make sure the vehicle is secure when the tire and wheel is off. Remove the brake pad assembly. Loosen the rotors with a hammer. The rotors will slide off. Reverse the process to install the new rotors.

Unfortunately, changing the rotors involves repacking the wheel bearings and then getting the torque settings right when you reassemble the hub. I've been looking into this for a long time. Apparently, one needs a bearing press to get the bearing seals back in properly which can be an expensive proposition. Additionally, this is a critical operation. You have to be able to loosen and replace several bolts without stripping them and making a mistake in repacking the bearings or reassembling the 4wd hub can be near catastrophic to your vehicle (if not you). To get the correct torque settings I am looking into Chilton's Nissan 4wd SUV manual. I am also looking into finding a garage with a press that will do the bearings but then give it back for me to assemble. I would greatly appreciate if anyone else has done this and can share a suggestion or two. The bearing cone and seal can be set in with an inexpensive bearing race tool that you can buy at any pats store and a hammer.

I have a 2001 Frontier and suspect they are similar. Jack up the front side you will work on 1st. Recommend placing a jack stand under the frame once jacked up for safety. Remove tire. Remove the disc brake pad housing by removing the 2 bolts holding it on (these are on the inside part of the wheel well). Ensure that the housing does not hang by the brake fluid hose as it will damage it, set the housing on top of the ball joint assembly if you need to set it down. Once off, the pads will slide out of the housing. Take and remove the brake fluid resevoiur cap (this allows the brake fluid in the system to flow back up through the system and into the resevoiur). Use wide pliars or C-clamps to depress the pistons in the pad housing back into the housing. This will cause brake fluid to overflow out of the resevoiur. Apply disc brake quiet (this reduces squeaking) between the new pads (side that does not touch the rotor) and shims. Allow to set about 10 minutes. Slide the new pads into position. Place housing back over the rotor and reinstall the 2 bolts. Replace tire and remove the jack stand and jack. Repeat on the other side. Once finished replace the resevoiur cap. Pads are self adjusting, just start the vehicle and depress the brake pedal a few times. You should be good to go

Great detailed answer! Just a couple hints to make it easier.

- if you do not top your brake fluid it will not overflow. if you do not have fluid leaks it is time to change pads if the "BRAKE" light comes on and stays on.

- if you only remove the bottom caliper bolt the unit will swing up for easy access and prevents possible damage to the brake line.

I would begin by unfortunately asking another question first. What is your experince level with pad and shoe replacement? Second I would advise the trip to the local parts store for one of Chiltons repair guides for your model and next listen to any advise the counter person has. Typically those folks have quite a bit of automotive experince and can save a lot of time and heartache with just a few words. Thirdly use good quality jack stands and a jack rated for the vehicle. Now then, while not being familiar with the 2003 model I will make a few assumptions and give you the standard truck with hub and shoes version. 1.Most important...level surface, break loose the lug nuts on the ground with the parking brake on as you will likely not be able to after it is off the ground...only crack them loose Do Not Back Them Off. 2. Chock front wheels take parking brake Off as it will prevent the hub removal later. 3. Jack up the wheel you will be working on and only do one side at a time (also a digital camera is great for reference if you do not have a picture or book to go by)MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS STABLE and on stands which are rated for its weight. 4.remove the lug nuts and wheel...now you are staring at the hub...it may be worn on the inside a little and the shoes may be inside a bit of a track making it difficult to remove. refrain from prying against the back plate as it is not really all that substantial. LIGHT tapping and I repeat LIGHT tapping around the outside of the drum sometimes shakes stubborn rotors...rubber mallet preffered. 5. once the (drum and hub...same thing)is off you should take note of the spring positions and at the top you will see the "wheel cylinder" it is the small deal (typically at the top with rubber ends that forces the shoes out to contact the hub)should be inspected...it should be dry..that is no break fluid..brake dust is going to be there..but if any fluid is around in there it will have to be replaced.6. now is the nice time to take a poloroid or digital photo so you know where things are and how they should look when you are finished...also now is the time for inspection of the inside of the hub..drum whichever you want to call it...its minimum thickness is often cast into the metal...if not the library or Chiltons manual will tell you if you are below that thickness...replace if needed..do not skimp on brake parts..they are far to important (a car that won't start is a bad thing.....a car that won't stop is a deadly thing.)7.brake spring pliers are available if you like at most auto stores and they make things easier...if that gets into the budget too much a good pair of regular pliers will work...carefully remove the springs noting their condition and position...if they look pitted..cracked..just plain not good replace them...spring kits are sold separately most of the time...in fact always in my experience.8. remove all the springs and shoes..the little coil springs with the cup retainers are usually the ones that cause the invention of new and exiting curse words...it sometimes helps to have a friend hold the nail looking rod while you turn the retaining cup...especially for installation.9. clean everything...do your best to keep any oil grease or fluid off of the new shoes as this will contaminate them and reduce their stopping power and longevity.10. Put her back together with those shiney new parts and refer to you own sketches..photos or manuals to see that everyting looks as it should and that the self adjuster rod...( the thing with the spur like wheel attached is contacting its actuator and that the parking brake cable...you will know it when you see it...is attached and looks like it should.11. put the hub(technically the hub is the flat plate with the lug bolts in it now that I think about it...)..put the drum back over it and access the adjuster wheel from the back side..adjust the new shoes until you just make contact with the hub. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts as much as you can before returning the vehicle to the ground. Once back on the ground fully tighten the lugs in oposition to on another..no1.then6.then 2. then 4..my numbers are arbitrary...but you get what i mean..Now that side is done so go to the next one...it will be much easier now that you have the experience...mostly try to keep a cool head and frequent stops for walking around and regaining composure are perfectly o.k. ....it will keep you safe and cost you less in the long term...Good luck sincerely Randy R. Lex KY let me know how it comes out.....richardsonrandal@yahoo.com

1. For your own safety, put stoppers on the other 3 wheels. DO NOT put the foot (hand) brake on or you will have difficulty in removing the brake drum. 2. jack and remove the wheel. 3. pull the drum off and rock and tap slightly if there are rusts or debris that preventing the drum pull out, no hammer is necessary! There are two 8x1.25mm threaded bolt holes in each drum that you can run bolts through and it will push off the drum. Just changed my rear brake shoes last weekend and this worked perfectly to get the rusty drums loose.

Good idea - if one is bad the other is soon to follow